Einleitung
Der Lüfter wird nur von wenigen Schrauben festgehalten, allerdings verlaufen einige Kabel hinter anderen Bauteilen. Ziehe nicht zu stark an diesen Kabeln, hole sie lieber hinter den Bauteilen hervor, bevor du den Lüfter ausbaust. Achte darauf, an welcher Stelle die Schrauben waren, eine unterscheidet sich von den anderen. Der Zusammenbau wird dadurch weniger nervig.
Was du brauchst
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Lege das Display mit der Bildschirmseite nach oben ab.
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Bringe die Saugheber auf beiden Seiten oben fest am Bildschirm an.
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Die Glasscheibe ist am restlichen Bildschirm mit kleinen Magneten befestigt. Hebe langsam an, bis sie sich ablöst.
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Drehe zwölf Torx TR10 Schrauben an der Oberkante und den Seitenkanten heraus.
The screws marked in orange don't need to be removed, all they do is hold the magnets on the LCD.
Yes “orange screws” does not need to be removed.
You do not need a TR10 screwdriver as written in the text a T10 will suffice (more common and also correctly mentioned in the list of tools).
A TR10 screwdriver is compatible with the T10, but not the other way around
Any info on if an older 2011 imac screen could just be plugged into this to replace the current lcd?
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Hebe das Display langsam aus seinem Sitz heraus und kippe es hoch.
Add the note that it should be lifted from the bottom edge. It is also important not to twist the display by levering up from one corner.
Before lifting the monitor, you should be prepared to start collecting screws and have your TR 10 ready.
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Fasse den Stecker des ersten Kabels (das, was am weitesten von dem mit Schrauben befestigten entfernt ist) an und ziehe ihn langsam heraus.
Note: be sure to pull away but not hard. Wiggle and pull slowly. These are delicate especially due to age.
Overall this is a moderate repair. Follow step by step and you are good.
Also, use tape and/or labels to mark which cables go where per the MLB and other parts. Resulting in easier reassembly.
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Um an den Stecker vom nächsten Kabel, direkt neben dem eben gelösten, zu gelangen, musst du erst an einem Stück Klebeband an einer Metallleiste ziehen.
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Benutze das Klebeband als Griff und klappe die Metallleiste herum.
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Fasse dann den Stecker und ziehe ihn langsam aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board ab.
What is this connector for?
I imagine this connector is going to be for display data (i.e. LCD data).
I pretty much mangled this cable trying to put it back into the slot. Is this something I can order a replacement for?
Thunderbolt Display 27" LVDS Cable
As other’s have said, this cable is super delicate.
When you replace it, make sure that the small metal handle it firmly reattached to the other side of the port. I thought I’d got it right first time, but had no video signal (thunderbolt detected display, and power was fed to the Macbook Pro).
I had to reinsert this one again, and one in, firmly press the connector home, then latch the handle over the other side. I also gave it a test pull to ensure it was secure. Then all was well!
Can anyone provide a photo of this connector so as to give a better understanding of its mechanics? see this cringe worthy effort at guidance; https://youtu.be/A96CUSm_Xhs?t=1050
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Fasse behutsam den Stecker auf der anderen Seite des Logic Boards unten an und ziehe ihn vom Board ab.
This cable was also taped for me, so remove the tape first
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Das letzte Kabel des LCDs ist mit einer Torx T 10 Schraube gesichert. Drehe sie heraus.
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Jetzt ist das LCD komplett vom Gehäuse abgetrennt. Du kannst es herausnehmen.
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Der Lüfter ist am Logic Board mit zwei Steckern angeschlossen. Fasse die Stecker beim Ablösen so nahe wie möglich am Board an und ziehe sie langsam heraus, damit sie unbeschädigt bleiben.
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Entferne das Klebeband, mit dem die Kabel am Gehäuse befestigt sind.
Remember which way the wire is connected. (top connector should have black wire at the top and bottom connector should have brown wire at the bottom). Both wires should have the “shiny” side facing you when inserting.
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Der Lüfter ist mit drei Schrauben am Gehäuse befestigt.
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Drehe die drei TR10 Schrauben heraus.
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Hole den Lüfter behutsam heraus, beschädige dabei keine der umliegenden Bauteile.
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Tausche den Lüfter gehen einen neuen aus.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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I have been having trouble with fan noise -- a noisy, rapid thumping sound, especially on startup but getting worse over a few weeks and lately persisting all day. Following this excellent guide, I removed the fan and examined it. I could see nothing wrong except perhaps a fine layer of dust on the blades, no worse than could be expected. I did not manage to disassemble the fan itself, as its two-part housing is very firmly clipped together, but applied a vacuum cleaner hose to both the entry and exit sides to clean it up as much as possible. I put it back and reassembled the whole display, and am pleased to report that the noise has completely disappeared. This may be good news to anyone dismayed by the apparent non-availability of replacement fans.
This guide made the power supply replacement quick and easy.
I had the rumbling fan cleaned by a pro. but the rattling didn't go. I just finished replacing the fan on my 27'' Thunderbolt Display using these instructions, and so far so good after 3 hours. It usually started the rattling after 30mn!
I purchased the fan on eBay. There were a couple available then.
I got the fan for $18 and spent 30mn on the job. At the Apple certified spot in town, they were going to charge me $250! I bought this Apple Display second hand for $250! and now it is back to its old self, working like a charm :)
Thank you very much for this web page which walked me through the process.
By the way, for a succion cup I used the two small ones that are attached to my soap holder, from the bathroom tiled wall; worked just fine and I didn't have to spend $20 to buy one.
cheers
Many thanks to Mr. Laverty and the other contributors. I followed this guide to install a new power supply in my darkened 27” Thunderbolt Display to bring it back from the dead. While the instructions were specifically for replacing the fan, I found that after following them to remove the LCD panel, it was easy to replace the power supply as well. For anyone else who may suspect a failed power supply (loud buzzing and then black), I ordered mine directly from China, supposedly a brand new one. It looks identical to the original in every way and does have a 2018 sticker affixed to it. It took a month to arrive but did the trick. I paid $70.50 for it from wwon_one off eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/273134311780). Thanks again for the extremely helpful guide!
Many thanks to Mr. Laverty and the other contributors. I followed this guide to install a new power supply in my darkened 27” Thunderbolt Display to bring it back from the dead. While the instructions were specifically for replacing the fan, I found that after following them to remove the LCD panel, it was easy to replace the power supply as well. For anyone else who may suspect a failed power supply (loud buzzing and then black), I ordered mine directly from China, supposedly a brand new one. It looks identical to the original in every way and does have a 2018 sticker affixed to it. It took a month to arrive but did the trick. I paid $70.50 for it from wwon_one off eBay. Thanks again for the extremely helpful guide!
I killed my Thunderbolt monitor while trying to follow this guide.
There is an aspect of my Thunderbolt monitor that is either different from the one shown above, or just not discussed in the write-up. One of the four cables connecting the front LCD and the back PCBs is a ribbon connector that’s held onto the PCB with a latch. The cable is very short, so the only way to connect it is to hold the LCD and glass *just* above the back panel. What’s more, the latch and ribbon are *extremely* delicate, and the latch *barely* holds the connector onto the PCB.
Long story short - once I disconnected that cable, I could not reattach it and get the latch to stay in place. I kept getting it just right, closing up the monitor, and plugging it in… only to find that it wouldn’t power on. By the fourth or fifth attempt, the latch was bent out of shape (seriously, it’s delicate) and the connector looked a little damaged.
I never got it to turn on again, and I hauled it to an Apple Store for recycling last weekend.
Ein kräftiges “Hallo” aus dem Jahre 2021! :-) Habe soeben meine treues, 7-jähriges Display operiert und den für 59 € erstandenen, neuen Lüfter eingesetzt, nachdem der alte die bekannten Lagergeräusche erzeugte. ––– Herzlichen Dank für die geniale Anleitung!! Es hat alles perfekt funktioniert. ––– Das Schwierigste war, die Fussel zu vermeiden. Dazu habe ich mehrere Anläufe und ne ordentliche Portion Geduld benötigt. Der Moment, in dem man den Strom wieder anschließt, ist besonders adrenalinfördernd – aber ich würde es jederzeit wieder tun! Er lebt! ;-) Auf weitere 7 Jahre Thunderbolt-Display! Liebe Grüße Sonja
Worked great.
Something that was not quite clear to me - the new fan had only one cable.
One of the two cables of the old fan was only attached to the fan with tape and connected to the board, because it was probably a temperature sensor. This could be easily detached from the old fan and attached to the new fan with the same tape.
The display is now totally quiet again - like new! Thanks for the great instructions.
Fairly straightforward repair. I recommend wearing a headlamp in order to see the smallish connectors more clearly. Also, be sure to use a puffer to thoroughly eject dust from the monitor.
Just did mine. If youve taken apart an iMac same deal. No suction cups, no replacement fan. Had a couple imac fan thought maybe i coud rebuild… nope. imac fan is a shaft in 2 bearing. Display is a brass sleeve. I cleaned the fan out some mild goo gone, greased the shaft, reassembled… Weird thing is the fan only wobbled shortly after midnight. No constant, revolving wobble. So far jst the compressor fan on my fridge… How often? so often you wont even notice it.. Elwood Blues…
Seem dirt, worn sleeve little dust and heat… Dash of time is the obvious cause… Didnt have actual grease in hand thought i did… used a tiny bit of solder flux… total cost… 45minutes.. If she doesnt find you handsome she’ll at least find you handy… Cheers
Instead of $14 foam block, I used a full roll of paper towel and two pillows. While it worked, if I ever did this again, I would buy the block of foam. Since you’re removing a power cable, you need to be able thread it through and I think the foam block would make that easier.
Josh Miller - Antwort
You can also use a single handle, double cup floor lifting suction cup. Just place it in the centre of the screen near the camera and lift slowly.
Steve A - Antwort
I just used a toilet plunger to remove the screen and it worked like a charm!
Philip Jacob - Antwort
That’s what I call resourceful—made my day. I hope your repair was successful.
Tobias Isakeit -
Great idea, thanks a lot!
Yvan Sandoz -
The glass lifted off the magnets quite easily after just using my fingernails. No suction cups or toilet accessories needed.
Adrian Gropper - Antwort
I had the same problem and after removal of the fan and a bit of work with the vacuum, the fan is quiet. Thanks to ifixit for the great instructions that made this easy.
John Perser - Antwort
To keep the screen up, other soft objects might work, but it's important that the hole in the back isn't covered because you will need to thread the new Thunderbolt/MagSafe cable through it and it would be a hassle to do it after everything's been set up.
Thomas - Antwort
Anybody got any links to glass screen replacement supplier for the A1407 Thunderbolt Display? Im finding it impossible to find a replacement without it being crazy money.
Michael McMillan - Antwort
Instead of a wedge, I used 4 rolls of toiletpaper, one under each corner.
jnbruin - Antwort