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Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des kombinierten Thunderbolt und MagSafe Kabels im Apple Thunderbolt Display gezeigt.

  1. Lege das Display mit der Bildschirmseite nach oben ab. Der Standfuß ist beweglich. Deswegen ist es gut, wenn du das Display mit einem Hartschaumblock gegen den Fuß abstützt. Bringe die Saugheber auf beiden Seiten oben fest am Bildschirm an.
    • Lege das Display mit der Bildschirmseite nach oben ab.

    • Der Standfuß ist beweglich. Deswegen ist es gut, wenn du das Display mit einem Hartschaumblock gegen den Fuß abstützt.

    • Bringe die Saugheber auf beiden Seiten oben fest am Bildschirm an.

    • Die Glasscheibe ist am restlichen Bildschirm mit kleinen Magneten befestigt. Hebe langsam an, bis sie sich ablöst.

    Instead of $14 foam block, I used a full roll of paper towel and two pillows. While it worked, if I ever did this again, I would buy the block of foam. Since you’re removing a power cable, you need to be able thread it through and I think the foam block would make that easier.

    Josh Miller - Antwort

    You can also use a single handle, double cup floor lifting suction cup. Just place it in the centre of the screen near the camera and lift slowly.

    Steve A - Antwort

    I just used a toilet plunger to remove the screen and it worked like a charm!

    Philip Jacob - Antwort

    That’s what I call resourceful—made my day. I hope your repair was successful.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    Great idea, thanks a lot!

    Yvan Sandoz -

    The glass lifted off the magnets quite easily after just using my fingernails. No suction cups or toilet accessories needed.

    Adrian Gropper - Antwort

  2. Drehe zwölf Torx TR10  Schrauben an der Oberkante und den Seitenkanten heraus. Drehe zwölf Torx TR10  Schrauben an der Oberkante und den Seitenkanten heraus.
    • Drehe zwölf Torx TR10 Schrauben an der Oberkante und den Seitenkanten heraus.

    The screws marked in orange don't need to be removed, all they do is hold the magnets on the LCD.

    Garrett Mace - Antwort

    Yes “orange screws” does not need to be removed.

    You do not need a TR10 screwdriver as written in the text a T10 will suffice (more common and also correctly mentioned in the list of tools).

    A TR10 screwdriver is compatible with the T10, but not the other way around

    Per Lohmann Poulsen - Antwort

    On mine, the orange screws did hold the LCD down; the magnets were held in by TR6 screws, and those did not need to be removed.

    jml9904 - Antwort

  3. Hebe das Display langsam aus seinem Sitz heraus  und kippe es hoch. Es ist sehr hilfreich, wenn dich zwei weitere Hände unterstützen und das LCD festhalten, während du an den Kabeln darunter arbeitest.
    • Hebe das Display langsam aus seinem Sitz heraus und kippe es hoch.

    • Es ist sehr hilfreich, wenn dich zwei weitere Hände unterstützen und das LCD festhalten, während du an den Kabeln darunter arbeitest.

    • Das LCD ist mit vier Kabeln an den restlichen Bauteilen angeschlossen. Achte darauf, dass du nicht zu fest an ihnen ziehst und sie beschädigst.

    Add the note that it should be lifted from the bottom edge. It is also important not to twist the display by levering up from one corner.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Antwort

    Before lifting the monitor, you should be prepared to start collecting screws and have your TR 10 ready.

    Josh Miller - Antwort

    Having a couple of short screwdrivers handy to prop up the LCD (like you would a car hood) while you disconnect the cables helps.

    jml9904 - Antwort

  4. Fasse den Stecker des ersten Kabels (das, was am weitesten von dem mit Schrauben befestigten entfernt ist) an und ziehe ihn langsam heraus. Fasse den Stecker des ersten Kabels (das, was am weitesten von dem mit Schrauben befestigten entfernt ist) an und ziehe ihn langsam heraus. Fasse den Stecker des ersten Kabels (das, was am weitesten von dem mit Schrauben befestigten entfernt ist) an und ziehe ihn langsam heraus.
    • Fasse den Stecker des ersten Kabels (das, was am weitesten von dem mit Schrauben befestigten entfernt ist) an und ziehe ihn langsam heraus.

    Note: be sure to pull away but not hard. Wiggle and pull slowly. These are delicate especially due to age.

    Overall this is a moderate repair. Follow step by step and you are good.

    Also, use tape and/or labels to mark which cables go where per the MLB and other parts. Resulting in easier reassembly.

    Ted Teske - Antwort

  5. Um an den Stecker vom nächsten Kabel, direkt neben dem eben gelösten, zu gelangen, musst du erst an einem Stück Klebeband an einer Metallleiste ziehen. Benutze das Klebeband als Griff und klappe die Metallleiste herum. Fasse dann den Stecker und ziehe ihn langsam aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board ab.
    • Um an den Stecker vom nächsten Kabel, direkt neben dem eben gelösten, zu gelangen, musst du erst an einem Stück Klebeband an einer Metallleiste ziehen.

    • Benutze das Klebeband als Griff und klappe die Metallleiste herum.

    • Fasse dann den Stecker und ziehe ihn langsam aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board ab.

    What is this connector for?

    pdspanagel - Antwort

    I imagine this connector is going to be for display data (i.e. LCD data).

    Scott Havard - Antwort

    I pretty much mangled this cable trying to put it back into the slot. Is this something I can order a replacement for?

    Ryan Stryker - Antwort

    I also screwed up this wire.

    erybovic - Antwort

    I also screwed up this wire. Wondering what the wire name is.

    erybovic - Antwort

    Thunderbolt Display 27" LVDS Cable

    Klaus Finke - Antwort

    As other’s have said, this cable is super delicate.

    When you replace it, make sure that the small metal handle it firmly reattached to the other side of the port. I thought I’d got it right first time, but had no video signal (thunderbolt detected display, and power was fed to the Macbook Pro).

    I had to reinsert this one again, and one in, firmly press the connector home, then latch the handle over the other side. I also gave it a test pull to ensure it was secure. Then all was well!

    Steve A - Antwort

    Managed to remove it but broke one pin putting it back. I don’t understand why they make so fragile with all the space available…

    BAULARD - Antwort

  6. Fasse behutsam den Stecker auf der anderen Seite des Logic Boards unten an und ziehe ihn vom Board ab. Fasse behutsam den Stecker auf der anderen Seite des Logic Boards unten an und ziehe ihn vom Board ab. Fasse behutsam den Stecker auf der anderen Seite des Logic Boards unten an und ziehe ihn vom Board ab.
    • Fasse behutsam den Stecker auf der anderen Seite des Logic Boards unten an und ziehe ihn vom Board ab.

    To remove this connector, you squeeze the lower tab to unclasp it, and pull it sideways away from the board

    Brad Bell - Antwort

    This cable was also taped for me, so remove the tape first

    danmcfalls - Antwort

  7. Das letzte Kabel des LCDs ist mit einer Torx TR10 Schraube gesichert. Drehe sie heraus.
    • Das letzte Kabel des LCDs ist mit einer Torx TR10 Schraube gesichert. Drehe sie heraus.

  8. Jetzt ist das LCD komplett vom Gehäuse abgetrennt. Du kannst es herausnehmen. Jetzt ist das LCD komplett vom Gehäuse abgetrennt. Du kannst es herausnehmen.
    • Jetzt ist das LCD komplett vom Gehäuse abgetrennt. Du kannst es herausnehmen.

  9. Genau in der Mitte des Gerätes kannst du den EMI-Filter sehen. ( Er wird von anderen Bauteilen festgehalten). Verfolge die Kabel die vom Netzanschluss  unten nach links verlaufen.
    • Genau in der Mitte des Gerätes kannst du den EMI-Filter sehen. ( Er wird von anderen Bauteilen festgehalten).

    • Verfolge die Kabel die vom Netzanschluss unten nach links verlaufen.

    • Entferne mit einer Pinzette das Klebeband, mit dem das Kabel am Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Du musst nur einen der Stecker entfernen. (auch wenn es zwei weitere direkt daneben gibt)

    • Fasse den Stecker unten an und ziehe ihn behutsam aus seinem Anschluss heraus.

    Note: The Brown/Black pair highlighted in the picture is for the AC connector. For the MagSafe power, you want to disconnect the double-black wire connection. Another way to distinguish if colors differ is that the MagSafe connection has a much larger connector on it.

    Isaac - Antwort

  10. Entferne dann das Stück Isolierband, mit dem einige Kabel vom Netzanschluss am Gehäuse festgeklebt sind. Entferne dann das Stück Isolierband, mit dem einige Kabel vom Netzanschluss am Gehäuse festgeklebt sind.
    • Entferne dann das Stück Isolierband, mit dem einige Kabel vom Netzanschluss am Gehäuse festgeklebt sind.

  11. Die darumliegende Lautsprechereinheit (die schwarze Box) um die Versorgungsleitungen muss ausgebaut werden. Entferne die vier TR10 Schrauben. Ziehe vorsichtig am Plastikende des Lautsprecherkabels und trenne ihn vom Logic Board ab.
    • Die darumliegende Lautsprechereinheit (die schwarze Box) um die Versorgungsleitungen muss ausgebaut werden.

    • Entferne die vier TR10 Schrauben.

    • Ziehe vorsichtig am Plastikende des Lautsprecherkabels und trenne ihn vom Logic Board ab.

    • Entferne den Lautsprecher.

    If you are only replacing the Thunderbolt and MagSafe cable, steps 11-13 do not need to be performed ie speaker and EMI filter do not need to be removed, only the screw holding the grounding cable on the EMI filter (top left of round disk).

    martin baynes - Antwort

    I concurr with M Baynes.

    lamajr - Antwort

    I just successfully removed and replaced the Magsafe/TB cable. I can confirm that Martin Baynes and lamajr are correct.

    Kevin - Antwort

  12. Wenn der mittlere Lautsprecher weg ist, ist EMI-Filter leicht zugänglich. Entferne das silberfarbene Klebeband oben vom Filter.
    • Wenn der mittlere Lautsprecher weg ist, ist EMI-Filter leicht zugänglich.

    • Entferne das silberfarbene Klebeband oben vom Filter.

    I can’t help but notice that this assembly that is called an EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) Filter is in the exact position that my monitor has been displaying a band of disrupted color bands once it heats up. I am changing the Thunderbolt cable assembly in hopes that is fixes the problem. If it doesn’t then I will make changing the Filter my next quest. It is also noteworthy that the Filter is grounded to the case by the metal tape which must be peeled back for this procedure. Hmmm.

    whiteshephard - Antwort

  13. Der EMI-Filter ist mit drei T10 Schrauben befestigt. Drehe sie heraus. Die Schraube, die sowohl den Filter als auch ein Kabel befestigt, hat eine andere Länge. Bewahre sie so auf, dass du sie von den anderen beiden unterscheiden kannst. Das grün-gelbe Kabel, welches von dieser Schraube befestigt wurde, ist hinter andere n Bauteilen festgesteckt. Um es herauszubekommen musst du es hinter das schwarze Kabel drücken, dann lässt sich der Filter vom Gehäuse entfernen.
    • Der EMI-Filter ist mit drei T10 Schrauben befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

    • Die Schraube, die sowohl den Filter als auch ein Kabel befestigt, hat eine andere Länge. Bewahre sie so auf, dass du sie von den anderen beiden unterscheiden kannst.

    • Das grün-gelbe Kabel, welches von dieser Schraube befestigt wurde, ist hinter andere n Bauteilen festgesteckt. Um es herauszubekommen musst du es hinter das schwarze Kabel drücken, dann lässt sich der Filter vom Gehäuse entfernen.

    Nothing about the power cable itself here. That has to be unplugged first, or when you get to this point, you’ll have to carefully unplug the main power cable from the back of the AC adapter you just removed in Step 13, and feed it through the hole in the back of the case.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR - Antwort

  14. Die Kabel werden von einer Metallplatte festgehalten. Entferne die beiden T10 Schrauben, mit denen die Metallplatte befestigt ist. Entferne die Metallplatte.
    • Die Kabel werden von einer Metallplatte festgehalten. Entferne die beiden T10 Schrauben, mit denen die Metallplatte befestigt ist.

    • Entferne die Metallplatte.

  15. Lasse die drei Stecker an den Kabeln behutsam aus ihren Anschlüssen auf dem Logic Board "herauswandern" , halte sie dabei an ihrem Plastikende fest. Von oben nach unten: Lüfterkontrollkabel
    • Lasse die drei Stecker an den Kabeln behutsam aus ihren Anschlüssen auf dem Logic Board "herauswandern" , halte sie dabei an ihrem Plastikende fest.

    • Von oben nach unten:

    • Lüfterkontrollkabel

    • Temperatursensorkabel

    • Versorgungskabel

    • In manchen Fällen gibt es nur das obere und das untere Kabel.

    I dont see any Temp sensor cable, just the top and bottom ones

    asebastianjo - Antwort

    Same Here. Could that be why it’s been cutting out all the time?

    Alan McClenaghan - Antwort

    I opened up my TB Display because it kept cutting out. I intended to replace the MagSafe/TB cable (as suggested on several threads) but now I see there is no Temperature Sensor Cable (middle) and the Fan Control Cable (Top) just leads to an end that is tapped next to the fan. Could this be an issue in the display intermittently going black and the desktop switching back to the MacBook?

    Alan McClenaghan - Antwort

    According to the Fan Replacement page there are only 2 cables.

    Alan McClenaghan - Antwort

    No need to undo these cables. Proceed to next step and just flip on edge the logic board to get to the tb cable.

    Jerod Moore - Antwort

    I also did not have a temp sensor cable. Nothing to be found.

    Aaron Dimatulac - Antwort

    As Jerod Moore noted, steps 15 and 17 are optional, provided you are gentle with the logic board cables and only stand on edge, not flip over, for step 18

    martin baynes - Antwort

    I just finished the removal and replacement of the Magsafe/TB cable. I can confirm what Jerod Moore and Martin Baynes stated. No need to undo these cables and steps 15 and 17 are indeed optional as long as you are gentle with the logic board cables and only stand the logic board on edge.

    Kevin - Antwort

  16. Entferne die sieben Torx T10 Schrauben vom Logic Board.
    • Entferne die sieben Torx T10 Schrauben vom Logic Board.

  17. Jetzt kannst du das Versorgungskabel hinter dem Logic Board ablösen. Um den Stecker abziehen zu können, musst du an ihm eine kleine Lasche drücken.
    • Jetzt kannst du das Versorgungskabel hinter dem Logic Board ablösen.

    • Um den Stecker abziehen zu können, musst du an ihm eine kleine Lasche drücken.

  18. Benutze die restlichen Kabel als Scharnier und klappe das Logic Board nach links. Der Displayanschluss wird zugänglich. Der Stecker des Displayanschlusses ist mit einer Metallplatte befestigt, die von zwei Torx T6 Schrauben gehalten wird. Drehe die Schrauben heraus. Entferne die Metallplatte.
    • Benutze die restlichen Kabel als Scharnier und klappe das Logic Board nach links. Der Displayanschluss wird zugänglich.

    • Der Stecker des Displayanschlusses ist mit einer Metallplatte befestigt, die von zwei Torx T6 Schrauben gehalten wird. Drehe die Schrauben heraus.

    • Entferne die Metallplatte.

    i removed both the top and bottom metal plates in order to fit a 3rd party thunderbolt cable

    asebastianjo - Antwort

  19. Löse das Thunderboltkabel vom Logic Board ab. Fädle das restliche Thunderbolt und MagSafekabel durch den Ausschnitt im Rückgehäuse.
    • Löse das Thunderboltkabel vom Logic Board ab.

    • Fädle das restliche Thunderbolt und MagSafekabel durch den Ausschnitt im Rückgehäuse.

    Nothing here about the two pieces of black fabric tape you have to undo to release the Thunderbolt and Magsafe cables; also see Isaac’s comment on Step 9 about having to unplug the Magsafe adapter. You can wait until this step to do that, but it still has to be done to remove the Magsafe cable.

    Also, you have to pull the cable up through, you can’t feed it down through the hole.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR - Antwort

    There are two blocks , visible in the photo above under the thumb and by the index finder, each were holding a black cable (power or Thunderbolt). These are VHB tapped to the metal chassis. Gently push on the block and they will detach. Remove fragments of VHB tase with tweezers. The new cable blocks already has VHB tape, you only need to remove the protective tape and hold firmly in place for a few seconds, for each block.

    martin baynes - Antwort

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

63 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer*innen:

en de

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VauWeh hilft uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
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Tobias Isakeit

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Unbelievable amount of very detailed and careful work to replace a Thunderbolt cable which is attached on the inside to a standard Thunderbolt socket! Why not just have the socket on the back of the unit?????

Lewis Naylor - Antwort

You can actually use the socket on the back of the unit as an input if your octopus cable is dying, as long as you are connecting directly to a Thunderbolt 1 or 2 Mac. If you are using the Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter, you have to use the built-in cable.

Tim -

In reply to Tim - This is not true - I am running a 2018 Mac Mini using the Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adaptor and a standard Thunderbolt 2 cable connected to the external thunderbolt connector on the Thunderbolt Display - It works fine.

Giles Norton -

Nice one Tim! Saves me opening the screen! Thanks!

Marc Dubresson - Antwort

Me too! I was just about to start dismantling my display when I noticed this tip - I’d even bought some suction cups. Thanks Tim!

Nigel Street -

Oh, my, yes! What a useful comment. It makes sense that this would work but I would not have thought of it. @timgostony Thank you very much indeed!!!!!

David Kim -

At the top of this guide for the Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable Replacement, it says that there are “No Parts Required” I beg to differ. I need this guide because I need to Replace my Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable because the connector at the computer end is sketchy and if touched causes the image to glitch and go out. I know its the cable because this issue is not present with any other display or projector I plug into the same port on my computer. So, I ask, do you have a reliable source for an Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Replacement Cable so I can use this guide and fix my monitor once and for all?

Stephen LeMay - Antwort

Answered my own question. http://a.co/d/bOlf4s0

Stephen LeMay -

Hi Stephen, You’re right, the wording is somewhat confusing. Of course you need a replacement part to replace something ;) This has been forwarded and we’ll hopefully change it soon to provide proper information. Thanks for the parts link; i’ll put this into the “parts” section for the time being.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hello, I desperately need help! I have followed the step by step instructions here & everything went perfectly! But now it won't turn on at all??? I have checked that I have plugged in every cable but still no response? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Nicholas hilton - Antwort

Nicholas, any luck with fixing your display? Same problem here. Replaced the all-in-one cable without incident. Reassembled, and now it won’t power on using different:

• macs

• plugged and unplugged

• from on already and starting up

• outlets

• power cords

Help.

About to start the process over, suspecting to find a disconnected cable.

Good luck, and thanks for any input.

 Chris Leeds

Independent Apple Specialist

Well Connected Life

Chris Leeds -

Also experience some hickups with different cables. No picture but charging, not charging but picture, slow recognition of display (~8 sec). There are different cables for the different display (size and year). Some cables may also be used and malfunctioning. Maybe connect to the seller and request a replacement to check.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hi Chris, I never had any luck with my repair. I came back to this forum hoping someone had replied with a solution, did you happen to get yours working at all? I have also tried all of what you stated with no success. Mine was working fine originally but the connection on the thunderbolt cable was intermittent so I decided to replace it but was unsuccessful despite everything being done perfectly. I also switched back to the original cable but still no response at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Nicholas hilton -

I use 2 thunderbolt displays with Mac Mini, daisy chaining the second one from the first display. I have been using these displays since 2011 and last month in a gap of 15 days both the cables started exhibiting unreliable connectivity. I ordered a pair of new cables and eventually after a month of waiting, I finally got them yesterday.

Opened display #1 using this guide (which is a life saver) and that roughly took me over an hour to tear it down. I additionally opened out each of the 3 speakers and brushed off the 8 years of dust accumulated on them. Blow cleaned the fan which had tons of dust caught inside.

This guide is quite well drafted with each step very illustratively put together. Not just my display is back in action, but also the audio volume of the display has doubled up :) I also cleaned off the soot developed behind the front glass and now its like a entire refreshed display.

Kudos to the author for this article!

Will work on the display #2 sometime soon.

Akash Khairate - Antwort

Great guide, thanks for thorough step by step teardown. I replaced both the cable assembly and the glass. I didn’t have the nice foam block to prop up the display from the work surface and provide space between the stand and the housing, but found that a rolled up hand towel worked well. If you’re doing the job yourself, find something to hold open the panel while you disconnect cables. There’s plenty of safe areas to do this without crushing or damaging internals. Similar to a automobile hood. Propping it open close to center provides the best balance. I used a large plastic bottle, it’s what I had available?!? You’re gonna need both hands for the job. And, though suction cups would have been nice, the magnets are weak enough that, working from the bottom, I found the glass separates easily without stressing the glass.

anonymous 8275 - Antwort

Garmin or other GPS suction mounts work great for lifting the face.

Thanks for the information. Mine died today and I have the cable so I get to have some mechanical fun.

rashby2 - Antwort

Hi Tim, can you give me a few more details on this?

“You can actually use the socket on the back of the unit as an input if your octopus cable is dying, as long as you are connecting directly to a Thunderbolt 1 or 2 Mac. If you are using the Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter, you have to use the built-in cable.”

How and in which cases can I replace the cable without opening the screen?

v_roy - Antwort

What more do you need to know @v_roy? Just buy a Thunderbolt to Thunderbolt cable (Apple sell them in 0.5m or 2.0m lengths). Then plug one into the rear of the display (there’s just one TB socket). Then plug the other end into your Mac, and voila! No need to dismantle the display at all.

Nigel Street -

Hi Tim, are you sure about using “Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter” with an external thunderbolt cable?

andremacola - Antwort

Hi andremacola! I was thinking the same and wondering if you had made any progress with this? I don’t understand why it would be different to use a “Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter”? I’m hoping I can use an external thunderbolt cable to connect to my adapter and MacMini. My display keeps blacking out randomly and it’s driving me crazy! And I can no way afford that new Apple display!

Paul Thomas -

Thanks for steps, detailed and made me realize this is a job for an experienced tech or someone who has some hands on knowledge. I may try a few of the steps and see where it leads me. Where would someone buy the parts for this project.

louis - Antwort

Any recommended brand for the replacement cable?

And tips on checking if it’s the cable or the port on my 2013 Macbook Air?

James Bowkett - Antwort

I’m currently using my 27inch Apple Thunderbolt Display with a 2014 MBP which is obviously how it was meant to be. I expect to upgrade my laptop to a new model in the next year and dreading having to deal with tons of dongles. Has anyone provided, looked at possibly modifying this model so that it has a USB-C connector?

Carlos Pacheco - Antwort

Hi, thx fot the manual!

The resolution of the display is no longer scalable. only a 1200* resolution is possible. With the new and old cable this is now. Everything is plugged in like in the manual.

Marvin Bätzel - Antwort

I have been having problems after plugging in a cheap LED light to one of the USB ports in the back of my Thunderbolt Display. I just tried connecting the thunderbolt port to a thunderbolt 2 to 3 converter and then my 2019 MacBook Pro. The Thunderbolt Display screen came on fine but the brightness controls and built in camera were unavailable. Therefore I need to do this work or get a new display or find a tech to do it because I want to keep using the camera and brightness adjustments.

David Fligor - Antwort

Overall, these instructions were great! I appreciated the comments, as I did have to disconnect the OTHER connector rather than the one highlighted in step 9. I would have never done this job on my own, but these instructions made it quite do-able. thank you!

Harry Dennis - Antwort

Hi ifixit.com,

I just fixed my Apple Thunderbolt Display Monitor, today! Thank you so much for the steps to changing my thunderbolt cable! I also purchased the tool kit from your website.

Thank you so much!

MoNique H.

Monique Holland - Antwort

Replaced the cable meticulously thanks to these great instructions. Still no power to mag safe, no power to USB and other ports. Connecting directly via Thunderbolt did not work. Tried multiple Mac computers. AC power cable does have power. What troubleshooting steps are next? Should I replace the power supply board? The logic board? I have a lot of good years in this investment, would like to get a few more. Thank you.

Marty Bird - Antwort

I think my display needs this fix at some stage, does anyone know why this cable does need replacing?

I am currently using it with the external port and Thunderbolt 3 to 2 adapter on my iMac 5K 2017, but its the only way I can reliably use it.

If the built-in cable is used, the display is not stable and stops being connected to my iMac.

grantdavis - Antwort

Excellent guide! I didn’t need the suction cups. Pull w/ fingers.

Long story short, I have 2 Thunderbolt Displays. TD1 flickers after 10-15 minutes then gives out. TD2 around 20-30 minutes will black out but kick back on right away, and I lose sound output to it, and for sound output to show back up in the settings, I have to disconnect then reconnect.

Tried daisy-chaining MacBook Pro<—TD2<—TD1 and works, but then flickering symptoms again.

Tried daisy-chaining MacBook Pro<—TD1<—TD2 and found out that TD1’s TB port on the back doesn’t work.

I bought one new TB/MagSafe cable from Amazon, used this guide, and finished the job on TD1 in an hour. Again, excellent guide. BUT, I’m still having flickering problems on TD1 when running itself or by daisy-chaining MacBook Pro<—TD2<—TD1

BUT! MacBook Pro<—TD1<—TD2, TD1’s TB port on the back works now, and haven’t seen any flickers about an hour in on TD1. However, TD2 gave up once, but kicked back faster than before.

Will order another replacement and do the same job on TD2.

Aaron Dimatulac - Antwort

Great procedural manual… the whole cable replacement took under an hour.

jml9904 - Antwort

As others have mentioned, I was able to bypass the original fixed thunderbolt cable, though bypassing it with an official Apple Branded TB2 cable from the socket in the back of the screen to a MacMini. It worked fine.

Edward Scotcher - Antwort

Awesome job Tobias, very helpful

martin baynes - Antwort

After completing the repair, you may need to reset your NVRAM/PRAM and SMC - recommended debugging for a Thunderbolt display, see https://www.macrumors.com/how-to/reset-t...

It is a wild guess that a damaged Thunderbolt cable may cause corruption of these critical settings.

martin baynes - Antwort

This guide has saved my screen! Than you so much for providing such detailed information. after I still had to reset the nvram but that was quite straightforward. Now my display works again as before. Thanks!

Tobias - Antwort

2nd time fixing the TBD. Power Supply, now the TB2 & Mag-Safe cable, nine years old and it is not in the landfill. Maybe nine more. Thanks

Jon Martinez - Antwort

Display works but the laptop is not charging. Anyone with the same problem?

Hannah Körber - Antwort

Had a similar case with an internal test repair. Turned out the cable was defective—returned it and the replacement part worked just fine.

Tobias Isakeit -

Do you think it is possible to integrate the Thunderbolt Display’s Mag-safe power cable and the Thunderbolt 2 connector into one thunderbolt 3 connector? (Like soldering couple of wires that Apple’s TB2 to TB3 adapter is lack of?)

So I can use my Thunderbolt Display with my newer Type-C ported Macbooks with just one single cable just like LG’s Ultrafine Monitor. (External Display & Charging my mac laptop at the same time?)

I know it would require 2 adapters at this moment(Apple’s Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3 Type-C Adapter && $20 Magsafe to USB Type-C Converter) However, my $20 magsafe converter got burnt and melted after a few months of usage so, NO. I won’t use that again. (And also I hated the fact that the two fat adapters hanging & dangling around.)

Or is it a bad idea modifying it like that? (catch fire or something? I am still curious why my converter got melted and no longer functioning..)

Zonny - Antwort

Wow… this is my second experience upgrading or fixing apple products. My cable’s shielding had frayed and the display finally stopped working, so I bought an aftermarket replacement and found this vid. I spent the $35 to buy the tools: suction cups, torx kit, and foam wedge, and I have to say that this tutorial was really on point. No issues replacing it and it works great now. Thanks!!!

Mike Fleener - Antwort

Hi - I need help. I followed these instructions. It was very easy. But now that my Thunderbolt Display is back together, the screen flickers and moves windows around like crazy and turns black randomly. However, the camera, USB ports, and sound work as expected. Any idea what could cause this? I know I didn’t damage the logic board as when I plug in a separate Thunderbolt cable to the back the screen is fine (but I don’t get sound, camera, or USB). Any advise before I take this all part again? Thanks, Lindsay

Lindsay - Antwort

After a lot of frustrating trial and error, it's definitely the replacement cable!

Lindsay -

I don’t know if this will help anyone, but cleaning the glass and led screen was impossible after this replacement. I tried everything (microfiber, cotton cloths, water only [glass only], vinegar & water solution [glass only], electronic wipes [glass only], compressed air, etc.), but the glass kept getting worse and the led screen had lot of dust on it. In my frustration I used a long piece of cheap scotch tape the length of the monitor (the kind that’s not completely clear) to clean both sides of the glass, which removed any accidental finger prints, streaks from my unsuccessful cleaning attempts, and dust particles. After both sides were clean again, I used the same process on the led screen, but much more carefully with a smaller piece of tape. It removed all marks and dust on the led screen as well, I was so happy. I went through a lot of tape, but I’m finally happy with the screen. I just hope this second cord actually works as a permanent solution so I don’t need to take it apart again.

Lindsay -

Thank you so much for publishing this guide. Many of the photos, and tips on how to remove each cable were invaluable. My monitor is working like new now. I really appreciate your work!

Marek Suchanski - Antwort

It really is a detailed explanation. I have a question. Can I use the use the socket on the back of the unit as an input to connect a new 2020 13 inch M1 MacBook Pro. Using this cable https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HN8B2...?

Jose - Antwort

My display is starting to show signs of an issue with the cable so I’m going to potentially do this. However, my question is this.

My current MacBook only has USB-C plugs on it which means dongles…lots of them. Has anyone made a replacement Thunderbolt display cable that is natively USB-C as opposed to the original MagSafe/Thunderbolt?

Carlos Pacheco - Antwort

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