Einleitung
In dieser Anleitung lernst du, das Yeti Mikrofon von Blue zu zerlegen.
Was du brauchst
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Als Erstes solltest du das Gummiteil aus der Halteraufnahme entfernen. Dies funktioniert am besten mit einer Pinzette oder einem kleinen Schlitzschraubenzieher. Danach kannst du die drei Schrauben mit einem kleinem Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher (PH1) #1 entfernen.
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Die 4 äußeren Knöpfe entweder mit deinen Fingern oder vorsichtig mit einer Zange entfernt werden.
I’m having trouble removing the volume and mute buttons from the front, much more so than the gain and sound pattern knobs. Is this just me or are all yetis like that?
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Jetzt kannst du vorsichtig den kompletten Mikrofonmechanismus aus der äußeren Hülle entfernen. Unten kannst du den 3,5mm Klinken-Stecker und den USB Stecker erkennen. Diese können nun falls nötig ersetzt werden.
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Schaue nun in Richtung des Gewebes. Hier siehst du vier #0 Kreuzschlitzschrauben. Entferne diese vorsichtig, damit sich das Gewebe entfernen lässt. Nun kannst du die drei Kabelsets sehen, jeweils ein Set pro Kondensator. Sie zeigen zur Seite, daran erkennt man, dass es ein omnidirektionales Mikrofon ist. (kein Richtmikrofon)
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You referred to those components as “mic receivers” and “speakers” which is a little confusing since they are neither receivers or speakers. Those are condenser microphones. Thanks.
I made some edits. Hopefully they were meaningful changes to reflect what you said.
The mics don't really point "outward". The mics are not very directional but mostly cardioid to omni-directional. So this is an X-Y configuration (two mics on top of another at 90 degrees angle) that provides the best stereo image or mono if the signals are mixed. So both "front" mics are used for "Stereo" image. All 3 cells are used for "omni" (all signal mixed), Both mics are used for "cardioid" imaging (in mono) with some rejection, maybe, from the back mic. The front mics are also used, in mono, with the back mic, all 3 mixed to offer the "front-back" sound image. The user's best placement is definitely in front of the Yeti for "stereo", "cardioid" and "front-back" imaging. For "omni", it doesn't matter.
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Falls du die Mikrofonabdeckung von der Platine abklemmen musst, achte auf die Verbindungen.
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Hier sind drei Kondensatoren vorhanden, daher auch 3 Verbindungsdrahtpaare zur Platine, jedes hat seine eigene Farbe (schwarz/weiß, schwarz/rot, schwarz/blau).
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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26 Kommentare
And what if i want to do the opposite?
For example, you removed the down part of the yeti, I wanna remove just the top. How can I do that?
You have to remove the bottom to unscrew the top from the inside.
this is a bit of a long shot. but any idea on a replacement part# / source for the 3.5mm barrel jack on one of these?
Try searching on e.g. ebay for “3 pin pcb mount female 3.5mm jack”
The plug is a standard part, so it should be readily available. I replaced my plug with a scavanged part that I happened to have on hand!
Anton -
@ Joe
Sorry I don’t.
Can the internal foam guard be taken out of the microphone mesh, so that they both can be washed, cleaned, and dried separately?
This would be great for those who want to buy a used Blue Yeti microphone.
Lenneurt -
This article answers part of my question:
Lenneurt -
I wouldn’t worry to much about taking the foam out. You will more than likely need to just wash it by running soapy water through it or dumping it into a soap bath and then I would use a fan to dry it.
Lucet. . 28 minutes ago (edited). . I found a video that shows that removing the internal foam from the microphone grill/mesh is possible
Lenneurt -
I have a blue yeti with distorted audio from the mic. Any idea which component may have failed? I'm guessing there's an encoder or amplifier IC on the board which would be a good guess but not too sure on these things
Yeah my Blue just blew I think. The recordings are chopped in half (one of mics is clean). The other sounds clipped/distorted/robotic/digital. So the audio curve is lopsided: the lower half looks correct, the upper half is flattened and nearly dead.
My screwhole on the bottom of the yeti seems too small for the standard screw that comes with the blue radius iii shock mount. I can only tighten the screw 1 turn before it stopes, but there’s still about 6 threads of space… I think I either stripped or compressed the thread tracks because I was an idiot and tried screwing in the wrong screw…
Please help, any ideas to troubleshoot much appreciated
I would suggest taking it apart and try putting the screw into the receiving hole while unbuilt to see if the screw still fits properly with no obstructions. It could be just slightly off when you put it back together causing friction.
Anyone else find their Yeti foam inside the mesh to smell terribly chemical and/or moldy?
I bought mine new years ago and it still has this smell. I spray alcohol and vinegar and the smell comes back
in minutes. I’m thinking it’s just the toxic foam they used on the models ten years ago at least.
Thanks for your help disassembling the mike.
I have a blue yeti with a broken mute button. Looks like a part that can be replaced without soldering if I can find a replacement part, or that there might be something off the shelf that might work. A cylindrical push button with light. Any ideas how to find a replacement part?
I called the company to see if I can purchase the part.
The Microphone repair shops won’t work on anything in that price range.
Blue said they will neither repair the device or sell the part. Shame on them.
Best regards
Do you know the dimensions of the three screws on bottom (length and thread?). I realize one is stripped and two are missing. I emailed Blue and they said they wouldn’t disclose that information. Thanks!
The buttons on there were really tight, had to use pliers to do the job. Completely ruined the buttons, does anyone happen to know places where you could find the replacement buttons on these mics?
EBay has a few spare knobs and buttons, Etsy also has some 3D printed replacements. Hope this helps
Kippler -
Any idea where to get replacement PCB?
Do you know the measurements of the screws? I was looking to take mine apart to resolder the connections and realized I am missing them. Maybe that’s why my audio crackles.
Ryan Fujimoto - Antwort
On black model there is a sticker to remove and 2 of the screws are hidden beneath.
Branden Rush - Antwort