Einleitung
Diese Anleitung wurde von iFixit-Mitarbeiter:innen verfasst und ist keine offizielle Reparaturanleitung von Google. Hier erfährst du mehr über unsere Qualitätsstandards.
Hier wird der Austausch der Einschalt- und Lautstärketasten an einem Google Pixel 2 Smartphone gezeigt.
Die Anleitung zeigt den Austausch der äußeren Kunstofftasten sowie des Flachbandkabels im Inneren.
Was du brauchst
-
-
Wenn dein Displayglas zerbrochen ist, dann klebe es mit Klebeband ab. Dadurch werden die Glassplitter zusammengehalten und du vermeidest Verletzungen. Außerdem haftet der Saugheber besser an einer glatten Oberfläche.
-
Bringe den Saugheber so nahe wie möglich an der Kante nahe den Lautstärketasten an, vermeide aber den abgerundeten Bereich.
-
-
-
Ziehe den Saugheber gleichmäßig und fest hoch und setze ein Plektrum zwischen Frontscheibe und Rückgehäuse ein.
They cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be when separating the screen. The iOpener does not work well enough to prevent breakage (opinion). I spent a majority of the hour and forty five minutes replacing my battery on removing the screen, i.e. reheating the iOpener, warming the device, slowly, with multiple passes, separating the adhesive. Use a heat gun or blow dryer.
try the alcohol as instructed instead of heat. “Do not heat your phone. If needed, you can use a dropper or syringe to inject isopropyl alcohol (90+%) around the edges of the back cover to weaken the adhesive. “
Make sure to remove the adhesive under the top and bottom speakers to make it much easier to remove the screen.
Isopropyl alcohol works well to loosen the adhesive. However - GO SLOW. Slide the pick a bit, then apply some isopropyl alcohol into the gap where you’re sliding toward. Wait a moment, then slide a bit more. Move very slowly, particularly around the corners!
Any idea on what to do when the suction cup pops off of the screen before there’s enough clearance to slide the pick in?
I used a hairdryer to weaken the adhesive. If you place your finger in the path of the hairdryer you’ll have a good idea of when too much heat has been applied (when your skin becomes unhappy at the temperature). BE VERY GENTLE. I cracked my screen because I didn’t weaken the adhesive enough. I also chipped(dog eared) the corner of the OLED screen underneath with one of the plastic tools. Don’t stick it in too far. As the guide says, use the flat edge or the pick to help control this.
I did the 90% alcohol and the iOpener. Took a while but finally got the screen off. As others have mentioned, there is lots of adhesive around the top and bottom speaker openings. I ended up reaching in with a small brush and more alcohol to get it. I used a tooth pick to break the final adhesive.
I also had a set of dental tools and a set of magnifying goggles (I’m a model railroader) which helped greatly.
Like others have said, THIS STEP IS THE MOST DANGEROUS!!! You must be extremely gentle (no real force should be necessary to separate the screen from the glue) with the screen and take your time. (IMO if it takes you less than 30 mins to get the screen loose, your going too hard at it). Two suggestions from my successful battery replacement that I can give, use alcohol instead of heat (seems to work better with this phone) and start with a much thinner plastic tool that is also flexible (I used a metro card from the NYC MTA). This will allow you to get at the tiny gap without using any significant force and then get some alcohol into the gap by dripping it down the thin plastic tool. Honestly, IFIXIT should make a small thin rectangular card to use for this with lines around it for measurements…
The first pry to get the pick inside the edge of the screen needs A LOT OF HEAT and a very firm pull, and just as someone else mentioned, the iOpener did not work well, instead, a regular hair dryer proved more beneficial in applying a controlled amount of heat until its almost too hot to touch. Then, once the pick is inside 99% isopropyl alcohol worked wonders, use a syringe or dropper to apple some at the edge, wait for about 15 seconds and move the pick centimetre by centimetre. Make sure to not insert it more than 2mm at the sides. I took more than an hour just to get the screen off.
As an experienced (1) screen remover, I’d recommend that if you don’t plan to change your screen, change your plans. You will be less disappointed that way. I managed to get mine for just over $10 with shipping and test it first (weak Battery). Pixel 3’s (Not 3a or XL) sure look a lot better now. They have removable backs. My pixel 1st gen was a cheap lesson. Looking for another cheap one to try alcohol on.
Used a hairdryer on medium heat (very warm but not burning hot), suction cup, and applied isopropyl alcohol into crack made when applying pressure. Rinse and repeat until loosened enough to get a pick in. Took many attempts. Don't try to force the pick in, as you could chip the edge of the thin glass of screen this way. The suction cup pressure and weakened adhesive should do the work. Once the pick gets it, you can work a little faster but did the same basic steps minus needing the suction cup anymore, working around the edges. Good lighting is a must to see the crack forming.
I have to disagree with folks who said this is the longest step of the whole process...for me...the longest step was having to drive around and find a T4 Torx bit because this kit came with a T2 Torx which proved absolutely USELESS...
The screen came off very easily with the liberal application of 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. Took around 15min to get the screen off and I hardly had to use picks except for the top and bottom.
That Torx bit though... F$%^ED ME
-
-
-
Setze das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 9 mm an der Unterkante des Smartphones ein. Wenn das Plektrum den gebogenen Bereich des OLED Panels berührt, kann dieses beschädigt werden.
-
In der oberen linken Ecke darfst du nur sehr knappe Schnitte führen, wenn du tiefer hineinkommst, kann die Frontkamera beschädigt werden.
This is inaccurate. The Pixel 2 phone’s back comes in two parts: a plastic main section and a glass back upper section. Only the glass section is required to be removed to replace the camera. Once the glass back is removed, the camera can easily be replaced without removing the motherboard, battery, or any other components. What is picture here looks like the original Google Pixel Phone.
Firstly, I disagree with hunter’s comment above - my Pixel 2 looked identical to this when I had it opened up.
Secondly, the whole thing about 1.5mm at the sides - literally scared the cr*p out of me when I started this as it’s such a tiny margin - but what this doesn’t say is that you can see these limits on your phone - just turn the screen on and it’s where the display ends - the digitiser starts there and is a couple of mm deep - hence the need to be careful. You can also see it (though less obviously) when you have the screen off - the jet black part at the edge is where the adhesive is - just make sure you don’t push in past there. It’s not like you can’t make very gentle contact with the digitiser when clearing the adhesive - I believe it’s just any kind of real pressure which will render the screen useless.
I think it would be helpful to highlight the adhesive patches around the microphone/speaker areas and that you do need to project your pick in quite a distance to break this adhesive. I think simply creating a highlighted tracing of all of the adhesive areas would be helpful and pretty simple to do. It is shown to some extent, but in my opinion it could be more clear. In all of the prefaced concerns for digging too deep, I spent extra time and effort carefully prying upward and cracked my screen and OLED rendering my phone useless. Eventually I decided to probe more deeply toward the mic/speaker and broke things loose which allowed me to remove the screen easily.
Yes your right. I didn't e that and I disassembly the scree from it's digitiser layer. If i would know in advanced the adhesive borders it wouldn't happened.
I took my time but a few times I slipped in more than I wanted. No harm. The bottom is the more tricky. The adhesive around the bottom opening goes right up against the ribbon cable for the screen. I got the edges unglued with alcohol & iOpener. I then gently pried the screen away and reached in with a small brush and more alcohol. I then used a toothpick to break the last pieces of adhesive.
Besides the adhesive at the edges, there are 2 rectangular shaped adhesive patches at the top (around the speaker) and bottom (around the microphone). These are pretty thick, but can be easily chipped away with the pick. You start to see these as you gently lift the screen upwards with the suction cup and peer inside (use a flashlight). I did not need to use a heat gun or blow dryer. Just the pick and some isopropyl alcohol.
Use isopropyl alcohol with a syringe at the top and bottom speaker to weaken the adhesive, gently pull apart (about 2mm) and use a finer piece of plastic (like a milky file plastic sheet) to cut through the adhesive at the speakers, but still do not take the screen off completely yet! After extensively reading about failed attempts to get the screen off (instances where people damaged the OLED underneath) one thing is in common: few devices have little adhesive underneath the ribbon cable as well, which people failed to notice and while separating the screen and in turn, damaged the OLED because of the pull from the ribbon cable. Thanks to having this information beforehand I found the same issue in my phone after I separated the screen (not completely) from the frame, I used a piece of finer sheet of plastic to cut the adhesive holding the ribbon cable. You will have to be extremely patient and take your time.
i spent probably 3 hours on this step only last night, incredibly difficult. turned out that the OLED itself was glued to the midframe which made it extra hard (and ended up breaking the screen in the process. I did buy the phone refurbished so I don't think they are all glued this way but it is definitely worth knowing.
Using 91% isopropyl alcohol worked way better than applying heat. Was applying heat for 20 minutes with no luck to get the initial opening. IPA did the job in 2 minutes. I would be cautious with how much alcohol you are dropping. Do not be too generous as some have mentioned and just drop along the edges at incremental distances. The alcohol will dissolve the grey foam in the picture with X marks and flatten it. Not that big of a deal but if you are picky about not damaging anything in the process you should be careful about it.
-
-
-
Ziehe das Plektrum an der rechte Seite des Smartphones nach oben, um den Displayklebstoff aufzutrennen.
-
-
-
Ziehe nun das Plektrum um die rechte obere Ecke und weiter entlang der oberen Kante des Smartphones.
-
-
-
Ziehe das Plektrum um die linke obere Ecke und weiter an der linken Kante des Smartphones nach unten.
-
-
-
Ziehe nun das Plektrum weiter um die untere linke Ecke und weiter entlang der unteren Kante. Halte das Plektrum leicht schräg zum Display, um Schäden an den Ecken des OLEDs zu vermeiden.
-
-
-
Setze das Plektrum nun erneut an der oberen Kante ein und heble vorsichtig das Display hoch.
This for me was by far the hardest step. What this guide fails to say is just how much adhesive you’ll encounter - mine was heaving with the stuff - so I wouldn’t attempt this fix without the rubbing alcohol, and I would be prepared to spend 30 mins on this - the images above make it look like as soon as you can get the pick in and around the whole phone the display will come off - this wasn’t true on mine, and I put a small crack in the top of my screen as I applied a little pressure to lever the top - the edges were ok, but there was so much adhesive at the top and bottom - right down and around the speaker grills - that I used scissors to cut the remaining strands as I managed to lift the screen higher enough! Don’t be shy with the rubbing alcohol, it really helps - and you really need to feel all sides loosen properly before you attempt to lever - but if you’re patient, it’ll be ok.
agree, way more adhesive at top and bottom than guide implies. go really slow on sides with thin plastic but top and bottom speaker needs a bigger dig
-
-
-
Lege das Display nun vorsichtig wie abgebildet auf das Rückgehäuse und achte darauf, dass das Displayflachbandkabel nicht geknickt oder abgerissen wird.
-
Entferne die zwei 4,0 mm T5 Torx-Schrauben, mit denen die Displaykabelhalterung befestigt ist.
I cannot imagine how much easier this project would be if they provided the bit for this screw and the others of the same size. The torx bit included in my kit is a 2mm - entirely useless here. Only other bits are Philips...also pretty useless...
-
-
-
Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Displaykabelstecker nach oben zu klappen und aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine zu ziehen.
Wow, I think I damaged my motherboard on this step. It would be helpful if there was a warning in this step to avoid doing that! Now my pixel 2 is reduced to a cool paperweight with a static display.
Yep, there’s a small surface mounted component below the connector that is super easy to dislodge from the circuit board. Shown in this YouTube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BEpgqpI.... Unfortunately, the part is smaller than a grain of sand, so not really practical for the average fixer to put back on the board.
A spudger is the wrong tool to remove the video connector. You cannot see where you are poking with that tool and I wound up dislodging one of the surface mounted devices hidden by the connector and ruining the phone. I also broke a ground path near the corner of the middle frame that is not mentioned in this repair procedure. Watch this YouTube before you begin disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKULr67Z...
None of the tools provided in the repair kit seemed slim enough to fit the space required to pry this up. I ended up using a thin / flimsy plastic health care card to get under and pry up. It popped up with enough pressure.
-
-
-
-
Lege zwei Minuten lang einen erwärmten iOpener auf den Näherungssensor an der Oberkante des Mittelrahmens, so dass seine Klebeverbindung aufgeweicht wird.
-
-
-
Schiebe die Spudgerspitze unter das Kabel des Näherungssensors, fange damit an der Seite in der Nähe der Frontkamera an.
-
Hebe das Sensorkabel vorsichtig an der Kante an, bis der Sensor rechtwinklig zum Mittelrahmen steht.
This piece is actually glued down - heat and rubbing alcohol really helped as at first I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get it to move.
-
-
-
Ziehe das kleine Stückchen Klebeband zurück, welches die Schraube unter dem Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher verdeckt. Wenn andere Schrauben auch beklebt sind, dann ziehe auch hier das Klebeband zurück.
-
Entferne folgende Schrauben, mit denen der Mittelrahmen befestigt ist:
-
Elf 3,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
-
Eine 4 mm Torx T5 Schraube
On my Pixel 2, I also had to peel back a small strip of conductive tape that was directly above (and the same kind as) the “screw below the earpiece speaker” mentioned above. It appears to be a ground strap to the assembly underneath.
Me too! Please change the photo?
If you don't peel the mesh tape up, it will year. I'm not sure if it plays into the screen potentially not working, but it seems to be a ground for the midframe and the display ribbon has a ground contact to the
Many of the screws would not come out due to the original threadlocker on the threads. I found that if I just kept moving them around with a toothpick, I could get the out. I also had one of those telescoping magnetic bolt grabbers that pulled the screws out.
Would be nice if they included the correct torx bit in the tool kit... mine came with a T2 Torx...pretty useless...managed to get the display ribbon cable free as those screws were surprisingly not super tight - got them with the included Philips bit...pretty F$%^ED right here
@JensDavidsen, I'm sorry to hear that the kit came with the wrong bit. We do everything we can to make sure that our tool kits are kitted correctly. I've gone ahead and forwarded your information over to CS so they can get this fixed for you. In the future, if you have any questions or concerns, don't hesitate to reach out to us directly.
You will also need to peel up the grounding tape below the front camera from the right. Be careful about not being too aggressive else you might lose adhesion while putting it back. I used some glue to ensure it would stick again during reassembly.
What kind of glue did you use? I suspect that a) it could change the contact of the ribbon, therefore hindering conductivity and b) that the glue might change over time, e.g. break down and cause side-effects.
arne -
-
-
-
Setze ein Öffnungswerkzeug in die Einkerbung im Mittelrahmen in der Nähe der Halte-Taste ein.
-
Heble den Mittelrahmen so hoch, dass ein Spalt zwischen ihm und dem Gehäuse des Smartphones entsteht. Der Mittelrahmen kann noch nicht ganz ausgebaut werden.
This is to pop a securing tab out it's place
On re-assembly make sure the securing tab, near the notch you use to open it, is inserted back under the frame again - this caused me to have to re-open my phone as my screen didn’t sit back down properly after I had put everything back together.
It is more effort than I anticipated. I really thought I was going to break it, but it was fine.
-
-
-
Beginne an der Unterkante den Mittelrahmen hochzuheben.
-
Wenn der Mittelrahmen zum restlichen Smartphone einen Winkel von 45° erreicht hat, dann hebe ihn gerade nach oben weg.
-
Führe beim Hochheben des Mittelrahmens den Näherungssensor durch den kleinen Schlitz im Mittelrahmen.
While not shown here in the photo, there is a short braided cable between the midframe and the motherboard near the front facing camera that prevents separating the midframe completely (ground?). Be careful not to damage this cable when completing the remaining steps or carefully remove before trying to separate the midframe completely.
As ericdowens says above, there’s a small silver sliver of a connector (next to the front-facing camera). The guides on youtube said it was a grounding wire. This guide doesn’t mention it. Mine broke when I removed the midframe. No big deal. I stuck it back down with some tape when I put it all back together. Phone works fine.
I had a heck of a time levering up the midframe. I had popped the side with the opening tool, but the other side was really stuck. I used some alcohol along the edge thinking there was some adhesive. Not sure. I eventually used a dental pick to pop it loose.
And when reinstalling, don’t forget to move the short braided cable back out of the way so you don’t trap it inside.
STOP! Before you lift the midframe, the ground strap mentioned by ericdowens and Alex Lawson definitely will break if you don’t remove it from the midframe before lifting. I didn’t quite know what they were talking about, so thought I’d look for it as I was lifting the midframe, as I was sure if I was careful I’d spot it before it would break. I was very gentle, and I still broke it before realising what they were talking about. Look for some silver mesh tape on the midframe, near the forward-facing camera, same kind of tape as over the screw shown in Step 14. I’m going to try and carefully tape mine back together as Alex Lawson did, but it will be very fiddly, wish I hadn’t broken it in the first place!
I broke mine... then proceeded to pilfer about 2mm worth of the tape depicted in step 18 because it's a silvery adhesive.
-
-
-
Löse den Akkustecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers ab.
This photo and tutorial doesn't show the shielding on the chips of the motherboard. And the glue…My pixel 2 had the volume button ribbon cable glued to the shielding. Carefully pry the cable off. Very carefully slide under it. Maybe use a little heat to soften the glue. You cannot just remove the motherboard with removing the ribbon cable for the volume buttons.
-
-
-
Löse den Stecker der Tochterplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers ab.
Removing the battery is not necessary to replace the motherboard, steps 19-21 can be omitted
Hi Robert,
Thanks for the input! I’ve re-ordered the guide to remove the unnecessary steps.
Thank you Robert
-
-
-
Fülle etwas hochkonzentrierten Isopropylalkohol in eine Kunststoffpipette oder eine Spritze und träufle ein wenig davon in jede Ecke des Akkus. Lasse ihn eine Minuten lang einwirken, um den Kleber zu schwächen.
-
Alternativ kannst du auch einen erwärmten iOpener mindestens zwei Minuten lang auf die Rückseite des Smartphones über den Akku legen. Erwärme und lege den iOpener so oft wie nötig auf, bis sich der Kleber lösen lässt.
-
-
-
Halte das Kabel zur Tochterplatine aus dem Weg und setze ein Plektrum an der Unterkante des Akkus ein.
-
Drücke gleichmäßig und beständig, bis sich der Akku langsam aus dem Smartphone hebt.
-
Heble nur in der Mitte des Akkus, so vermeidest du Beschädigungen an den empfindlichen Flachbandkabeln unter jeder Seite des Akkus.
-
Wenn es schwer geht, dann gib noch etwas Alkohol unter den Akku und versuche es nochmals.
This is another place where the amount of adhesive they’d used in the factory seemed understated - it took ages and plenty of heat and rubbing alcohol to get the battery out. Again, patience was needed - and I thought I might have messed it all up as I must have missed the “only pry from the centre” comment in the guide and went under the right and left bottom corners with a cotton bud and rubbing alcohol - I was lucky I think.
With the bottom of the phone resting against the iOpener, I used leverage with one of the plastic picks from the top and bottom of the batter and blue opening tool from the left side (below the volume rocker). It gripped it perfectly where I could pull it up a bit and slide the pick further underneath. Be careful of the volume ribbon cable (thin copper color at the top right of the battery) and what I assume to be an antenna cable. - a single thin black wire leading around the bottom left of the battery itself.
I think those cables to the left and right are for the “squeeze” sensors on the case.
I used lots of alcohol as other suggested. I got it out.
-
-
-
Entferne den Akku.
-
Entferne alle Kleberreste vom Handy und reinige diese Bereiche mit Isopropylalkohol und einem fusselfreien Tuch.
-
Befestige den neuen Akku mit vorgestanzten Klebestreifen oder doppelseitigem Klebeband. Um ihn richtig zu positionieren, befestige den neuen Klebestreifen erst im Handy, nicht direkt auf den Akku. Der Kleber sollte keinen Kontakt mit einem der Kabel unter dem Akku haben.
-
Drücke den neuen Akku für 20-30 Sekunden fest.
Why I have to replace the battery if it doing well??!!
And is it necessary to remove the battery to reinstall the rear camera?
Lithium-ion batteries are susceptible to damage when they are bent or creased—the thin layers inside the battery may short, resulting in swelling and potential fire hazard.
You should be able to replace the rear camera without removing the battery. I will adjust the rear camera guide to reflect this.
Re-assembly note -
Getting the battery to connect to the charging cable was a challenge for me. However, once it’s connected, if there’s any juice in the battery or if you want to be brave and plug it in, you can test to see if the phone is receiving power by trying to start it up and seeing if it vibrates. The combination of gently adjusting the charging cable, testing power, testing power with the phone plugged in got me to identify when the cable was attached properly.
Using my squishy finger worked better for re-attaching that cable than using the spudger.
This is a much better place to test for power than continuing reassembly and finding out it doesn’t work. If the phone cables are connected correctly and the battery has power (mine shipped with some charge in it), the phone will vibrate when you hold power.
Like Thomas, getting the battery cable back was a pain as my positioning of the new battery made the u-shaped cable slightly askew. I finally got it. I was afraid I was going to bend a pin but all good. And I also did the “press power and check for vibrate” trick. The battery (as I would later see) was 52% out of the box.
Once you remove the battery, you may notice parallel lines of adhesives on both sides of the surface, where the battery was. No need to scrape away these lines. They should be still sticky and usable. Removing these would be a hassle. Just add a strip or two of the double sided adhesives in the middle where the battery was, before putting in your new battery.
after adding the battery, the turn on a vibrate trick does work, it vibrates, but then it never does again, and the display does not turn on:/ charging it for 10 min did nothing
Thanks to Thomas, I did the turning on to know if it vibrated or not trick, and in my case, it did not. I had to plug out the battery connection and plug it in again with a finger and it was then when I heard a little “click” sound, and then the phone vibrated. You have to ensure that the battery side connector, sits right over the battery connection, before pressing it firmly.
Pro tip, plug in the battery before laying it down. Once the battery is in, you only have so much room to bend before it damages the cable or puts too much tension on the board.
Is there a reason to replace the adhesive? The battery fits snugly in the cavity and seems to be held securely in place even without any adhesive applied. I decided to not apply new adhesive to make future repairs easier, but wondering if there will be negative consequences to this.
-
-
-
Trenne den Stecker der Ladeeinheit mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Hauptplatine ab.
-
-
-
Setze ein geeignetes Werkzeug (z.B. eine aufgebogene Büroklammer oder das SIM Auswurfwerkzeug) in das kleine Loch im SIM Einschub auf der linken Seite ein und drücke darauf, bis der SIM Einschub herausspringt.
-
Entferne den SIM Einschub.
-
-
-
Heble die Hauptplatine mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug hoch.
-
Entferne die Hauptplatine.
-
-
-
Drehe die Hauptplatine herum.
-
Trenne den Stecker des Kabels zu Fingerabdrucksensor ab.
-
-
-
Hebe das Flachbandkabel zu den Tasten mit der Spudgerspitze vorsichtig vom Smartphone weg.
-
-
-
Heble die Halteklammer der Einschalttaste mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
-
Wiederhole das für die Halteklammer der Lautstärketaste.
-
-
-
Fasse die metallene Halteklammer mit einer stumpfen Pinzette an und ziehe so die beiden Tasten heraus.
-
Entferne das Flachbandkabel zu den Tasten vom Smartphone.
Avoid to purchase this board as "New" from iFixit, this is because the new ones comes with the metal retaining clip slightly bigger and won't fit with the original external buttons, so you cannot put it back and even if you re utilizes the old one, the buttons also comes with more space between, so one of the volume buttons won't work as expected.
-
-
-
Drücke die äußeren Einschalt- und Lautstärketasten mit einem Spudger aus dem Gehäuse.
-
Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Du musst vielleicht fehlende Teile vom alten auf das neue Teil übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll sachgerecht.
Hat die Reparatur nicht ganz geklappt? In unserem Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Du musst vielleicht fehlende Teile vom alten auf das neue Teil übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll sachgerecht.
Hat die Reparatur nicht ganz geklappt? In unserem Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
4 weitere Nutzer:innen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.
Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:
100%
Diese Übersetzer:innen helfen uns, die Welt zu reparieren! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Hier starten ›
Ein Kommentar
If you buy this part here as new, it comes a little bigger than the original, so volume buttons won't fix or working well, I mean one of the buttons volume up or down will work and the other no. :-(
I think is better to buy the used part.
My screen is severly cracked. I would recommend clear packaging tape as it is wide enough to accomodate the suction cup. Thinner cellophane tape won’t seal properly.
John Tippitt - Antwort
Does the Google Pixel 2 have be powered off before removing the digitizer screen? Its not mentioned in this article...
Will the phone be damaged if the power is still on when disconnecting the broken screen?
Alex - Antwort
Replacing the battery in my Pixel 2 was successful because I read the comments. They are invaluable in this endeavor.
David Castro - Antwort
Suggest procedure revision:
Step 1: Read all steps and associated comments before proceeding.
Step 2: Ensure they supplied you with the right F$%^ING TOOLS in the kit before proceeding.
I'm F$%^ED because any store around me that might have this T4 Torx bit is already closed and my screen is already off. My kit came with a T2 Torx bit which is not used anywhere in this entire process.
Jens Davidsen - Antwort
I bought one of the kits and it had everything needed to change the battery except the alcohol, including spudgers, screwdriver, torx (2 sizes), tweezer, alcohol dispenser, glue strips and die-cut glue card that fit the phone case perfectly. I followed these instructions and read the comments. Applied alcohol and patience, took my time and got the job done without any damage to the phone. Thank you ifixit!
Jeffrey Price - Antwort