Einleitung
This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.
Follow this guide to remove and replace the motherboard on the Google Pixel 5.
For your safety, discharge your battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair.
Warning: Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
Was du brauchst
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
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Press firmly to eject the SIM card tray.
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Remove the SIM card tray.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for one minute.
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Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. Do not pry at this seam.
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Bezel seam: This is where the plastic bezel designed to protect the screen meets the frame. It's held in place by plastic clips. This is where you should pry.
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Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the screen—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
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Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
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Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen and its bezel frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction cup to the screen, as close to the heated edge as possible.
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Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
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Insert the opening pick into the gap.
"Insert the opening pick into the gap." NOT the gap under the glass, the second gap... If not you will probably break your screen, at least I did. Especially important if your pixel 5 shipped with the screen gap :(
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Slide the opening pick back and forth along the bottom of the screen to slice the adhesive.
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Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for one minute.
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Insert another opening pick into the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Slide the opening pick around the left corner.
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Continue to slide the pick up towards the front camera to slice the adhesive on the left edge of the screen.
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Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Insert another opening pick into the top left corner of the screen.
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Slide the pick around the front camera and across the top edge of the phone.
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Slide the pick to the top right corner of the phone and leave the pick inserted.
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Insert an opening pick into the bottom right corner of the screen.
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Slide the pick up to the top right corner to slice the last edge of adhesive.
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Use the opening pick from the top left corner to lift up the left edge of the screen a few millimeters. This will keep the clips from snapping back down into the case.
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Lift up on the right side of the screen and open up the phone like a book.
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Use tweezers to grip the screen connector cover securing the screen flex cable.
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Push the clip in towards the connector to unlatch it.
I found it easier to use the spudger here rather than the tweezers (which have sharp ends that could damage something if you happen to slip).
some 5a models will have a screw instead of clip , here's a photo https://imgur.com/a/9dZG5pQ
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Use the tip of the spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.
The curved ends of the blue iFixit Opening Tool helped me reseat the connector when installing the new screen.
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Remove the screen.
Where from we can buy the screen. Thanks
the screen does not fit
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Use tweezers to lift up the graphite tape until you are able to grip it with your fingers.
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Peel off the graphite tape.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.6 mm-long screws securing the charging plate cover to the midframe.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.6 mm-long screws securing the midframe.
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Use tweezers to lift up the right side of the midframe.
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Remove the midframe.
Removing the midframe may cause a metal-foam spacer above the light sensor to pop out. After placing in the midframe on re-assembly, you can use the tweezers to squeeze the spacer back in between the midframe and the metal divider near the top of the phone.
There is a picture of this spacer at https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Google+Pixe.... To replace it, first replace the midframe. Then, before screwing the midframe back down, use the tweezers to pinch the space together, compressing the foam in the middle, and slide it into place.
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Use the pointed end of the spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.1 mm shouldered screw.
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Use the spudger to disconnect the two rear camera press connectors from the motherboard.
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Use tweezers to lift up on the rear camera assembly to remove it from its housing.
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Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the black adhesive pull tab located on the top right edge of the battery. Lift the pull tab with the tweezers until you are able to grip it with your fingers.
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Pull on the pull tab with a slow, steady force at a shallow angle to prevent the pull tab from snapping in the middle.
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If the pull tab breaks prematurely, use tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive and continue pulling.
I found what helped the best, was after grabbing the tab wrapping it around the tip of the spudger, and rolling slowly away, holding it as close as possible to where the tab was. Before I did that since you're pulling so much at once it easily snapped in half. Luckily I could grab a tiny bit of the strip. After wrapping it around the spudger, it no longer broke. The whole strip came off in one piece. Both pieces are complete horizontal pieces and are along the entire width of the battery, from the side you're pulling to the other side of the battery. There's quite a bit there especially since it stretches during this process. You'll feel it suddenly basically give away. ******
It is very much like the adhesive strips you use to hang items on the wall. When you're removing the hook, you pull at a low angle on that tab and it stretches until it comes off clean. Pull too high and you peel paint. A similar process here, keep it low and roll it slowly on the spudger. It will come away cleanly.
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Use the same process to remove the pull tab located at the bottom left edge of the battery.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the opening of the affected tab.
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Tilt the phone so that the alcohol flows towards the remaining adhesive.
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Wait one minute for the adhesive to soften, then proceed to the next step.
If you're like me, I ended up having a random piece fall out of the phone that I had no idea where it went. After searching I gave up and left it out. However, after looking at the second photo in this step, the one with it tilted fully towards the camera, I found it. Between the index and thumb in the photo, directly in the center of the phone is a thick gray bar. Just to the right of it is a loose piece that might fall out for you. It looks like two thin pieces of metal that sandwich some insulation. You will also notice two tiny tabs bent at an angle on each end only on one side. If that piece does fall out, that's where it goes. Just match the tab angles with this photo and location. I, unfortunately, don't have that piece anymore and am not willing to break through that display adhesive to put it back anyways.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap long the left side of the battery.
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Use the opening pick to slice the remaining adhesive at the top and bottom of the battery.
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If you cannot pry the battery up, add a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol to the adhesive. A plastic card can also be helpful during this process.
This was, by far, the hardest step for me. Pay very much attention to that link "strategically located". It tells you exactly where the toughest adhesive is. I had to use a lot of isopropyl alcohol, a lot of waiting for the adhesive to dissolve, and the thin spudger on only the top and bottom of the battery to pry it out. I did not use the pick.
I don't think it's worth applying adhesive when putting the battery back in.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the two press connectors by lifting them straight up from the motherboard.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.9 mm screws securing the motherboard to the rear case.
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Use a spudger to gently fold the flex cable covering the rear case press connector out of the way.
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Use the spudger to disconnect the rear case press connector.
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Insert the pointed end of the spudger into the screw holes near the front facing camera.
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Push the motherboard down towards the bottom of the phone, then lift up to free the top of the motherboard from the rear case.
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Use your fingers to pull the motherboard up towards the top of the rear case to free the charging port.
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Remove the motherboard.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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Good day. Please tell me, what is the size of the vibration motor for the pixel 5? I can't find the type of vibro motor anywhere.
