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Einleitung
In dieser Anleitung wird gezeigt, wie du die Displayeinheit austauschen kannst. Sie besteht aus Bildschirm und Touchscreen.
Das Displaypanel des Google Pixel XL ist nicht verstärkt und daher zerbrechlich. Außerdem ist es stark mit dem Rahmen verklebt, so dass Reparaturen schwierig sind. Es kann leicht passieren, dass das Display bricht, besonders wenn es schon Mikrorisse hat. Erwärme es ausreichend und sei beim Hochhebeln besonders vorsichtig.
Was du brauchst
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Erwärme einen iOpener und lege ihn zwei Minuten lang auf die linke Displaykante.
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Achte auf die Klebezonen, bevor du anfängst zu hebeln:
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Dünne Klebestreifen am Displayglas
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Dicke Klebestreifen
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Wenn sich der Rand warm anfühlt, dann setze einen Saugheber nahe an der Kante an.
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Hebe den Saugheber hoch und setze ein Plektrum in den entstandenen Spalt ein.
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Wenn es schwer geht, einen Spalt zu öffnen, dann erwärme den Rand nochmals und probiere es erneut.
From my experience, I had to use a thin blade (such as the ones included with the deluxe iFixit repair kit) to slide into the small gap, and cut away at the foam adhesive. Once enough of a gap is created, the picks can then be used to push the adhesive aside - but the adhesive is so thick, especially -as Brewmaster396 observed in the comments below - at the top right corner behind the screen, that the knife is required to cut it. I failed here - cracking the back layer of my screen - because I didn’t take time to cut all the adhesive away from that thick part, and kept trying to pull the screen off. It doesn’t take a lot of pressure to crack - so maybe it’s more a thing of cutting and floating the screen up, not pulling and prying.
Mark the picks with lines that show how deep you can go in that part of the screen. This will help keep you from accidentally hitting the fragile screen
Matthew Goodwin - Excellent suggestion.
Jon T made a great suggestion about creating a mark on the picks (see above).
Matthew Goodwin responds with an “Excellent suggestion.”
Here we are 8 months later and no lines on the picks in my new pro-tech tool kit, not sure why this hasn’t been implemented at this point in time.
Bob H.
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Schneide mit dem Plektrum an der Oberkante entlang, um den Kleber aufzutrennen.
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Lasse ein Plektrum in der Kante stecken, damit der Klebstoff sich nicht wieder verbinden kann.
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Erwärme einen iOpener und lege ihn zwei Minuten lang auf den rechten Rand des Smartphones.
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Setze ein Plektrum nahe an der Oberkante des Smartphones ein, dort wo du den Kleber vorher schon aufgetrennt hast.
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Führe das Plektrum um die rechte Ecke herum.
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Schneide den Kleber mit dem Plektrum behutsam an der rechten Kante nach unten auf.
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Wiederhole das Ganze an der linken Kante des Smartphones.
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Erwärme zwei Minuten lang den unteren Rand mit dem iOpener.
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Setze ein Plektrum nahe an der rechten Kante, wo du schon den Kleber gelöst hast.
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Führe das Plektrum behutsam um die Ecke herum.
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Trenne mit dem Plektrum den Kleber entlang der Unterkante auf.
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Wenn du um das ganze Smartphone herum aufgeschnitten hast, dann hebe die Displayeinheit vorsichtig an den rechten Ecken ein wenig hoch.
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Schneide mit einem Plektrum durch alle restlichen Verklebungen.
As long as you’ve disengaged the adhesive relatively evenly around all sides, I found mounting the suction cup in the middle (biased a little to the left or right side), helps a lot on this step.
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Hebe die Displayeinheit am oberen Ende hoch und klappe sie herum, so dass sie mit der Rückseite nach oben auf dem Rahmen liegt.
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Entferne die beiden 4 mm Torx T5 Schrauben, mit denen die Displaykabelhalterung befestigt ist.
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Entferne die Displaykabelhalterung.
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Heble mit der Spudgerspitze das Displaykabel hoch und löse es aus seinem Anschluss heraus.
i have to agree with the comment here about the connector. If you press it in the middle, it will bend. Resulting in either bent pins on the motherboard or the display. In my case it was both !
Be careful prying up the connector and apply force only from the side as shown in the picture cause in the longest side there are capacitors that can be broke doing the lever ( happened to me Repair missing capacitor near display connection port )
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
The Parts List does not state you need a replacement display. Is this portion of the Repair Guide copied and pasted from another guide (perhaps the screen replacement guide) or will I need to procure a replacement screen before I attempt to replace the battery?
It is possible to replace the battery without replacing the display, but there is a significant chance you may break the display during removal. It depends on if your display already has micro-fractures, and how stubborn the screen adhesives are. I would personally buy a screen just in case, and return the part if I didn’t need it.
Hello, I recently bought a refurb screen off of eBay to fit. The phone was 100% working before and just needed a new display/battery.
The battery came before the display. I wanted to test the display before doing too much reassembly, so I plugged in the battery, connected the mother/daughter boards with the interconnect cable, and then plugged in the LCD.
When I press the power button there is the usual single buzz from booting, but the display is completely blank.
Is the replacement screen DOA, or are there important traces/connections made by fully assembling the midframe and missing screws before testing the LCD?
If I already have all the ingredients for a fair test of the LCD, then it seems the LCD is bad?
Like I said the phone worked perfectly before… and if the new battery is dead, I would expect no buzz, or at least a battery graphic?
Hi John,
If the phone buzzed, that usually signifies that it has booted up—having no image at that point usually means some kind of display issue. I would suggest disconnecting the display connector, carefully checking for any debris in the socket, and carefully re-connecting it.
I’ve also seen a comment in another Pixel guide that suggests plugging in the display connector before the battery. If that works, please leave a comment!
battery connector is not accessible without removing the display first………. and reassembling, battery has to be connected first, then the plastic piece and then the display
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Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Du musst vielleicht fehlende Teile vom alten auf das neue Teil übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Wenn sich dein Pixel nach dem Austausch des Displays nicht anschalten lässt, könnte es sein, dass das Gerät sich unbemerkt angeschaltet hat, während die Batterie wieder angeschlossen wurde. Halte den An/Aus-Knopf für mehrere Sekunden gedrückt bis eine Vibration zeigt, dass das Gerät sich abschaltet. Verbinde danach das Display erneut und versuche es noch einmal.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur hat nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Unsere Community kann dir weiterhelfen.
Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Du musst vielleicht fehlende Teile vom alten auf das neue Teil übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Wenn sich dein Pixel nach dem Austausch des Displays nicht anschalten lässt, könnte es sein, dass das Gerät sich unbemerkt angeschaltet hat, während die Batterie wieder angeschlossen wurde. Halte den An/Aus-Knopf für mehrere Sekunden gedrückt bis eine Vibration zeigt, dass das Gerät sich abschaltet. Verbinde danach das Display erneut und versuche es noch einmal.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur hat nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Unsere Community kann dir weiterhelfen.
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11 Kommentare
I just connected the screen to the phone, but the screen doesn’t start. Do I have to restart in a special way the phone to make it works? All possible button combinations to restart the phone doesn’t work
The iFixIt iOpener tool is a complete waste of money. It didn’t loosen up the glue at all. I am requesting a refund on Amazon.com
Hi Drew, sorry to hear that your iOpener didn’t work too well in your repairs. We like to think it’s a pretty valuable and inexpensive tool, but it does have its quirks — namely, not everyone’s microwave is specced to operate at the same temperatures, so not everyone will achieve the most optimal temperature during that heating process.
For what it’s worth, we do put a Lifetime Warranty on the iOpener tools, so our Support team would be happy to replace that one for you, if you’d like. If so, please reach out to them by using the Contact link on the help page: http://help.ifixit.com. Otherwise, you are welcome to request a refund via Amazon and we will oblige.
We wish you all the best in your future repairs.
I am sure the iOpener does work, but it probably takes a long time to heat the adhesive enough for screen removal and would require several applications. I got one as part of my screen replacement kit, although I have a heat gun so I didn’t end up using it. That being said my screen took at least four minutes of heating, with some re-heating to remove the broken shards. I would also imagine that adhesives vary from manufacturer, since this is my first screen replacement all I know is that the adhesive on the Pixel XL is really strong!
Dan E -
Don’t forget to transfer the speaker cloth to the new screen. I got it all back together before realizing that there was just an ugly hole.
Thanks! I probably would have missed it. Since I changed the screen color from white to black I colored the screen black with a permanent Sharpie, worked perfectly.
Dan E -
First time repairing a smartphone. I broke my Pixel XL’s screen months ago and although it was still fully functional, the screen was broken at the top near the grill. I was motivated to fix it myself since I didn’t trust leaving at a repair center and I thought it would be an interesting to try it myself.
Parts: Google Pixel XL Screen and Digitizer (includes adhesive and tools)
Tools used: 1100W heat gun, suction cup, opening picks, plastic spudger, T5 Torx screwdriver and angled tweezers
Tools not used: iOpener
Time to complete: 1+ hour
I referenced the guide when necessary. I didn’t use the iOpener, I can’t see this working well as it took well over 4 minutes of heating the screen with my 1100W heat gun, which I used on low since high would probably have cooked my phone! My screen was broken near the top grill so I had to re-heat that area and remove the shards with tweezers. The repair time was an hour, not including prep and clean up. Removing the tiny shards and adhesive was the most time consuming.
This guide is very good but beware removing a cracked screen. Removing my cracked screen was particularly tricky. Using picks to run around the edges works until you encounter a crack. If you’re lucky the pick will glide past the crack but if you’re not then you might not be able to get past that crack. Try again from the other side of the crack if possible. Shattered parts of the glass screen might render the suction cup useless making certain parts of the screen impossible to remove easily. Try your best to get as much of the glass/screen up in one piece. Regularly apply heat via the iOpener to keep the glue soft and pliable and keep working at the shattered areas (I just removed the shattered pieces using the tweezers).
You know, I really wish you guys had an actual detailed how to of how to actually replace the screen. Everything including the actual screen replacement is left out. Now that I've done it, I can say this is a very poor how to.
-You don't describe installing the screen adhesive, which can be tricky and is easy to lay out of place.
-You don't describe how to properly lay the screen.
I've just noticed the adhesive "protector” on the back of the screen with the blue tab isn't supposed to be fully removed. Yet, I realized it all came off after I laid the screen. When you're holding the screen in one hand and trying to separate all the “protective film" you don't really have a free hand to try to pick at it and decide what's supposed to stay.
So I would like someone to contact me for another screen to be sent or my money back. I am totally displeased with everything other than the part. I read your how to, and it was not done properly because your how to isn't sufficient. And PS, this isn't my first phone repair.
Hi Cody,
I’m sorry to hear of your repair troubles! Many of your issues could be answered in the detailed adhesive guide linked in the last step—here is a quick link. Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
The iOpener doesn't open a device. It's just a big radiator that's useful for keeping the temperature up. An alternative is repeatedly heating with a heat gun, and allowing parts to cool down while you cut through the gummy goo.
You cannot heat the adhesive such that the pieces can simply be pulled apart. The adhesive should be heated so that it becomes soft enough to cut through with a plastic sheet or playing card. I heat an edge with a heat gun, keeping track of the temp with a non-contact thermometer. When a side is up to temp, I then use the iOpener to keep it from cooling down quickly.
Take the time to read through the processes. Watch a video or two. Stop blaming the tools.
From my experince, it’s better to use a heat gun (if iFixit sold a good heat gun in volume, they should spruik that). Also, heat ALL sides at the same time BUT concentrate on the top part of the phone where the foam adhesive tape is thickest, second on the bottom where the foam is almost as thick. It also helps to use the 2nd & 3rd images in the series to visualise where the adhesive is.
Jon T. - Antwort
Ty for the advice I prefer heat gun but my first pixel
Michael Koch -