How to Troubleshoot Heating Issues in a Frigidaire Gas Oven

Turn off the oven, unplug the stove, and let the oven cool completely.

Shut off the gas supply valve to the stove if you’ll be opening panels or working near burner tubing.

Wear safety glasses and work gloves to protect against sharp sheet metal and rust.

Confirm other gas appliances in the home run normally to rule out a whole-house supply problem.

Test the cooktop burners to confirm the stove is getting gas.

If the cooktop burners don’t ignite, the issue is likely a gas supply problem or a failed gas regulator.

Turn the stove on and set the oven to broil.

Check whether the broiler igniter glows and the broiler heats.

If broil also won’t turn on, suspect the safety valve or the oven control board.

Set the oven to bake and look through the oven cavity for a bright red or orange glow near the lower burner area.

If there’s no glow at all, the bake igniter is the most likely culprit.

The bake igniter or its wiring causes this symptom in most no-heat cases.

Open the oven door fully and locate the locking tabs at the hinges on both sides.

Use a screwdriver to pull each locking tab down toward the door.

Push the door back toward the oven, then lift the door up and pull it out of the chassis.

If a latch pushes back into the chassis, work the latches until the door releases.

Locate the two thumb screws inside the oven cavity at the back-left and back-right sides.

Remove the thumb screws by hand.

Use a slotted screwdriver to break rust or gunk loose if the thumb screws are stuck.

Use vise grips if there’s no place for a screwdriver to grip the thumb screws.

Pull the main oven panel up, then back, then out, and watch for the lip on the front edge.

Inspect the baffle area for heavy rust, which can suggest moisture buildup in the oven.

Remove the screws on the front of the baffle if the model uses them.

Pull up slightly on the baffle, then pull it out to expose the igniter and the gas burner bar.

Remove the two screws on the right side of the burner housing that hold the igniter in place.

Remove the screws that hold the gas burner bar if you need more room to reach the igniter screws.

Remove the screw on the back wall and the screw at the very front of the burner bar on this style of Frigidaire-built oven.

Lift the burner bar up and pull it out once it’s free-floating.

Trace the igniter wires to the harness or connector that supplies power to the igniter.

Unplug the igniter harness if the stove uses a standard plug connection.

Cut the wires to the old igniter about halfway if the harness is unusual and you want to keep the original harness in place.

Trim back the cloth insulation on the harness wires to expose clean wire for splicing.

Use ceramic wire nuts to connect the harness wires to the new igniter wires.

Mount the new igniter to the burner bar in the same position as the old igniter.

Match the replacement igniter to the original by visual shape, even if the heat shield looks slightly different.

Reinstall the burner bar into the oven and secure its screws if you removed it.

Install the igniter wiring before mounting the igniter, or mount the igniter first, based on what fits best in the space.

Plug the stove in and set the oven temperature to start a bake cycle.

Confirm the igniter glows a strong cherry red, which indicates the new igniter is working.

With gas enabled, allow one to two minutes for bake mode to progress from igniter glow to burner flame.

If the igniter glows but no flame appears within two minutes, suspect a weak igniter or another failed part.

Locate the safety valve, which controls gas flow to the oven once the igniter is heating properly.

Identify the two valve connections, typically one for broil and one for bake, which are often color-coded.

Pull off one spade connector, then use a multimeter to test across the valve terminals for continuity or low resistance.

Replace the safety valve if the meter shows OL or no reading.

Set a multimeter with an amp clamp to 20 amp mode and clamp it around a single igniter wire.

Plug the stove in, set bake to 350 °F, and read the amperage from a safe distance.

Record the meter with a cell phone if it helps you stay farther away from energized wiring.

Expect about 3.0 to 3.6 amps to open the safety valve, suspect issues below 3.0 amps, and treat readings below 2.6 amps as a bad igniter.

Check the stove’s technician sheet for exact specifications, since values can vary by model.

Inspect the thermostat located in the upper-left corner of the oven casing as another possible cause of no-heat.

Suspect a failed oven control board if gas supply is good and the igniter and safety valve test good but the oven still won’t operate.

Confirm the burner bar is screwed into place and secured.

Install the baffle into the two small slots at the back, then set its front edge into the small ledge and reinstall its screws.

Channel the oven bottom panel into place so it slips down and locks where the thumb screws install, then reinstall the thumb screws by hand.

Slide the two arms of the oven door into the chassis, open the door fully, and push the hinge latches back into place to lock it.

Slide the warming drawer back in until it locks.