How to Troubleshoot No Heat Issues in a Frigidaire Stove

Turn off the range, let it cool completely, and pull it away from the wall so you can access the back.

Unplug the power cord before opening panels or disconnecting any wires.

Set up a phone to take clear photos of wire positions before removing anything from the control board or terminal block.

Turn a surface burner knob to the highest setting and confirm a burner heats normally.

Test the Broil function and check whether the broil element heats.

Set a multimeter to AC voltage.

Measure left hot to neutral and right hot to neutral, and expect about 120 V on each leg.

Measure left hot to right hot, and expect about 240 V.

Fully reset the breaker if voltage is wrong, and call an electrician if voltage stays incorrect after reset.

Locate the terminal block at the bottom center of the range, and inspect it for burn marks, melted plastic, or loose or damaged wires.

Inspect the power cord wires at the terminal block and the three wires leaving the block into the range.

If needed, test the terminal block just like the outlet by measuring hot-to-neutral (about 120 V each) and hot-to-hot (about 240 V).

Unplug the range after the voltage checks before continuing.

Inspect the bake element inside the oven for visible damage like scorching, charring, cracks, or sections that look exploded.

Use a screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the bake element to the rear oven wall.

Pull the element toward you a few inches to expose the wire connectors.

Clamp the wires in place with a clamp on each side so the connectors don’t slip back through the hole.

Disconnect the element from the terminals, swap in a replacement element, reconnect it, and reinstall the two mounting screws.

Use a 1/4 inch hex head screwdriver or a drill gun with a 1/4 inch hex head to remove the screws holding the rear silver panel(s).

Lift the panel(s) away and set the screws aside for reassembly.

Inspect the bake element wiring harness where it attaches to the element for burned, loose, or damaged connectors.

Remove one wire from the bake element so you can test the element by itself.

Set a multimeter to ohms resistance and measure across the two element terminals.

Replace the bake element if the reading is OL or extremely high, and expect about 10–20 ohms on a good element.

Locate the oven temperature sensor on the right side near the middle of the oven cavity.

Unplug the sensor from its harness so you can test the sensor by itself.

Set a multimeter to ohms resistance and measure across the sensor terminals.

Replace the sensor if it reads OL or if it’s far outside about 1050–1100 ohms.

Remove one or two mounting screws, rotate the sensor housing counterclockwise if required, and pull the sensor out.

Install the replacement sensor, reinstall the mounting screw(s), and reconnect the wire harness securely.

Locate the control board and identify the two wires that feed the bake element from the board, which are yellow and orange on the unit shown.

Clip multimeter alligator clamps to the two bake-output wires or carefully hold probes on the connections.

Set the oven clock so it isn’t flashing 12:00, because an unset clock can prevent operation on some models.

Set the oven to Bake at about 375–400 and wait for it to click on.

Expect about 240 V AC when the board is calling for bake heat, and replace the board if it’s much lower like 160 V or less.

Unplug the range before removing or installing the control board.

Take a photo of all wires on the control board, including the large terminal connector at the bottom.

Remove the spade connectors from the board, using needle nose pliers if they’re tight.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four Phillips screws holding the control board, and support the board so it doesn’t fall when the last screw comes out.

Transfer or install the plastic overlay if needed by peeling the adhesive backing, aligning it to the buttons and display, and pressing firmly.

Install the replacement board with the four screws, reconnect all wires by matching the letter and number markings, and set the clock after restoring power.

Use a 3/8 inch socket wrench to remove the nuts holding the three power cord wires to the terminal block posts.

Remove the cord wires from the terminal block and replace any burned wires before reassembly.

Remove the screws securing the terminal block to the chassis, including the green ground screw and grounding strap if present.

Mount the replacement terminal block using the supported holes on the chassis, because there may be multiple hole patterns.

Reinstall the grounding strap unless the range uses a four-wire connector, which doesn’t use the grounding strap.

Reinstall the range wiring on the posts and tighten the nuts securely, using 10 AWG wires if replacements are needed.

Reinstall the rear panel(s), align all holes, and reinstall the screws using a 1/4 inch hex head screwdriver or drill gun.

Reinstall the power cord onto the terminal block posts and tighten the included hex screws or nuts firmly with a screwdriver or socket wrench.

Look for a thermal fuse on the back of the range if the oven still won’t heat after the main tests.

Test the thermal fuse with a multimeter for continuity and replace it if it doesn’t have continuity.

Inspect wiring between the control board and the bake element for broken or burned terminals, especially at exposed metal connectors.

Restore power, set the clock, and run Bake to confirm the bake element heats.

Test Broil as well to confirm the range heats in both modes.