How to Troubleshoot Non-Working Burners in a Frigidaire Stove

Turn the stove off, and let the cooktop cool completely before touching any burner parts.

Unplug the stove or switch the range breaker off before removing panels or disconnecting wires.

Try the other stovetop burners and note which ones heat.

If all burners work except one, focus on that burner’s infinite switch, wiring, and element.

If none of the stovetop elements work, start by checking the incoming power to the stove.

Set a multimeter to AC voltage.

Pull the plug out slightly and probe the prongs to measure voltage.

Measure left hot to neutral and right hot to neutral for about 120 V each.

Measure left hot to right hot for about 240 V.

If the voltages are incorrect, reset the breaker fully, and retest.

Locate the terminal block near the bottom center on the back of the stove where the power cord connects.

Inspect the cord wires, the terminal block, and the three wires leaving the block for burn marks, melting, or broken connections.

Replace the terminal block if anything looks burnt, damaged, or destroyed.

Unplug the stove before continuing into deeper component testing.

Pull the stove out so you can work behind it.

Use a 1/4 inch hex head screwdriver or a drill gun with a 1/4 inch hex head bit to remove the screws from the rear control panel cover.

Identify the set of infinite switches behind the knobs, matching the switch position to the burner that isn’t working.

Take a clear photo of the switch terminals and every wire connected to them.

Use needle nose pliers to remove the spade connectors from the switch terminals.

Find the terminal markings stamped into the switch body, such as L1, L2, H1, H2, and P1.

Set the multimeter to ohms or continuity mode.

Connect the multimeter probes to matching terminal pairs, such as L1 to H1 or L2 to H2.

Turn the burner knob to a heat setting and check for continuity through the switch.

Move the probes to other matching L and H pairs to check for a burned or failed internal contact.

Replace the infinite switch if you can’t get continuity on the expected terminal pair when the knob is turned on.

Keep the multimeter set to ohms, and probe the two wires that run from the infinite switch out to the burner.

Look for a normal resistance reading, often between 10 and 70 Ω depending on the burner style.

If the meter reads OL or very high resistance, the burner or its wiring is open and needs repair or replacement.

Identify whether the failed burner is a dual-size element controlled by one knob.

Take a photo, remove the wires, and read the lettering and numbering on the switch terminals.

Match the numbers for each coil circuit and test for continuity when the knob is turned on.

Replace the switch if you repeatedly get OL between the matched terminal numbers during the on-state tests.

Test the element through the switch output wires the same way as a single burner, and treat OL or extremely high readings as a likely failed coil.

Take a photo of the switch wiring, then remove all wires from the old switch.

Pull the knob straight off the switch shaft, using a flathead screwdriver or needle nose pliers to gently pry if needed.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws securing the switch to the control panel.

Remove the switch from the stove housing.

Install the replacement switch and reinstall the mounting screws.

Open the oven door and locate the three or four screws at the top of the oven cavity that secure the glass top.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws.

Pull the glass top forward and away from the back of the console, then pivot it upward.

Support the raised glass top with a sturdy 2×4 so it can’t fall while you work.

Locate the two hex head screws, one on each side, that secure the large burner bracket assembly.

Use a 1/4 inch hex head screwdriver to remove the two screws.

Lower the bracket and burners down onto the stove chassis so you can access the elements and wiring.

Inspect each element’s internal metal wiring and the element terminals for scorch marks, burn damage, or loose and displaced conductors.

Use a multimeter in continuity mode to spot-check from an element’s metal terminal connection into the element wiring path.

Replace the terminal end if you can’t get continuity through the terminal connection.

Replace the element if the element’s male spade connection is damaged or if the element itself is open.

Use needle nose pliers to press the metal clips that hold the element into the bracket, then remove the clips.

Take a photo of the bracket labels and clip locations so they go back in the correct positions.

Take a photo of the element wiring and terminal locations before disconnecting anything.

Disconnect the element wiring from the terminals and remove the element.

Place a cloth under the element to protect the glass top while you work.

Transfer the brackets to the replacement element using your photos as a guide, and start screws gently to avoid cross-threading.

Flip the element over and press the clips back into their original positions until they snap into place.

Match each wire to the correct terminal by comparing the old element’s terminal lettering to the replacement element’s lettering and matching wire colors.

Lift the burner bracket into place, align the mounting holes, and reinstall the two side screws.

Lower the glass top gently, making sure the rear guide brackets and the front metal lip line up correctly.

Reinstall the three or four screws inside the top of the oven cavity that secure the glass top.