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How to Troubleshoot a Kenmore Gas Oven That Won't Heat

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Was du brauchst

    • Turn off the oven controls, and let the oven cool completely before reaching inside.

    • Unplug the stove or turn off the circuit breaker so you’re not working around live electricity.

    • Shut off the gas supply if you’ll be opening panels or handling burner components.

    • Stop and ventilate the area if you smell gas, and don’t operate switches or create sparks.

    • Verify other gas appliances in the home run normally.

    • Test the cooktop burners to confirm the stove is getting gas.

    • Stop troubleshooting the oven if the cooktop won’t ignite, because the issue is likely gas supply or a bad regulator.

    • Use a qualified gas technician if you suspect a gas supply or regulator problem.

    • Set the oven to broil and look for normal heat operation.

    • Treat a broiler that won’t turn on as a possible safety valve or control issue.

    • Set the oven to bake and look for a bright red or orange glow at the lower part of the oven.

    • Look for the glow without disassembling anything, because it should be visible during normal operation.

    • Plan on replacing the bake igniter if there is no glow, because the igniter is the cause most of the time.

    • Open the oven door and pull the locking tab down toward the door on each hinge.

    • Push the door back toward the oven, then lift the door up and pull it out of the chassis.

    • Work the latches back into position if they try to push back into the housing during removal.

    • Remove the two thumb screws inside the oven, located at the back left and back right.

    • Use a slotted screwdriver to break loose rust or debris on the threads if the thumb screws won’t turn by hand.

    • Use vise grips if there’s no place to use a screwdriver on the thumb screws.

    • Pull the main oven panel up, then back, then out to remove it.

    • Watch for the lip at the front edge of the panel so it doesn’t snag.

    • Remove the two screws at the front of the oven baffle.

    • Pull the baffle up slightly, then pull it out to reveal the igniter and the gas burner bar.

    • Remove the two screws on the right side of the housing that hold the igniter in place.

    • Expect the layout to look slightly different between models, but the burner bar and igniter mounting are usually similar.

    • Remove the burner bar mounting screws if access is too tight to remove the igniter screws in place.

    • Remove the two burner bar screws, with one on the back wall and one at the front that’s accessible before the baffle is removed.

    • Lift the burner bar up and out once it’s free-floating.

    • Trace the igniter wires to the harness or connection that provides power to the igniter.

    • Replace the igniter with a visually similar igniter, because most igniters are universal even if the harness looks unusual.

    • Don’t worry if the replacement has a different-looking heat shield, because it won’t affect operation.

    • Mount the new igniter to the burner bar, moving the shield slightly if needed for clearance.

    • Cut the wires to the old igniter about halfway so the original harness stays physically in place.

    • Trim the wires on the old harness to expose clean wire from the cloth insulation.

    • Mate the harness wires to the new igniter wires using ceramic wire nuts.

    • Don’t use standard plastic wire nuts in the oven cavity because they can’t handle the heat.

    • Reinstall the burner bar into the oven, and reinstall its mounting screws if you removed it.

    • Route the igniter wires so they aren’t near the burner, because the flame heat can damage them.

    • Install the igniter first and connect wires afterward, or connect wiring first and mount the igniter afterward.

    • Restore power and set the oven temperature to check that the igniter glows bright cherry red.

    • Expect a clear difference between a dead igniter and a properly glowing igniter.

    • Expect the burner to light within one to two minutes after bake mode starts if gas is being supplied.

    • Treat a glowing igniter with no flame after about two minutes as a sign of a weak igniter or a gas valve problem.

    • Unplug the stove or turn off the breaker before testing the safety valve.

    • Locate the safety valve underneath the stove.

    • Identify the two sets of connections for broil and bake, which are typically color-coded.

    • Remove one spade connector from the wire harness on the valve.

    • Use a multimeter to measure across the valve terminals, and treat continuity or low ohms as good.

    • Treat an OL reading as a bad valve that typically affects both bake and broil.

    • WARNING: Only do this test if you’re comfortable working around live electricity.

    • Set a multimeter with an amp clamp to the 20 amp mode.

    • Clamp the meter around a single igniter wire, and clamp it before restoring power if possible.

    • Restore power, set the oven to bake at 350 °F, and read the amperage draw.

    • Record the meter display with a cell phone so you can stand back from the energized stove.

    • Expect the safety valve to open around 3.0 to 3.6 amps, and treat readings below 3.0 amps as suspect and below 2.6 amps as bad.

    • Check the stove’s technician sheet for model-specific amperage targets.

    • Check the thermostat located in the upper left corner of the oven casing if the igniter and safety valve test good.

    • Consider a failing oven control board if the oven still won’t operate after the basic ignition system tests.

    • Confirm the burner bar is screwed into place and secured.

    • Hook the oven baffle into the two small slots at the back of the stove.

    • Channel the front of the baffle into the small ledge at the front of the oven cavity.

    • Slip the baffle down so it locks into the area where the thumb screws go, then reinstall the baffle screws.

    • Reinstall the main oven panel, and tighten the two thumb screws by hand.

    • Slide the two hinge arms of the oven door into the chassis slots.

    • Pull the door down to open it, then push the door latches back into place so the hinges lock.

    • Reinstall the warming drawer, and slide it back to make sure it locks in place.

Abschluss

If the oven still won’t light after the igniter is glowing properly and the safety valve checks out, focus on electrical control inputs such as the thermostat and the oven control board. Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

Ben Schlichter

Mitglied seit: 01/21/25

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