Was du brauchst
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Der D-Ring befindet sich, wie auf dem Foto gezeigt, auf der den Tasten abgewandten Seite.
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Hebe den Metallring an und drehe das Gewinde mit ihm heraus.
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Lege diesen Teil beiseite.
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Halte den Lautsprecher aufrecht und zwänge einen Metallspatel zwischen Gehäuse und Lautsprecher. Heble die Rasten vorsichtig auf, sie brechen leicht.
This part is not easy. The main risk is to broke the plastics clips.
Use a heat gun (or hair dryer on high) first around the edges before attempting to pry it open. There are six tabs: one directly in line with the charging port; one approx 3/4 inch to the left and right of that tab; one centered against the back of the volume control "panel", and one approx 3/4 inch to either side of that one. So when prying, try to insert your spudger in between those spacings in order to not push on the tabs directly.
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Suche den Teil am Gehäuse, der die Lautstärkeregelung abdeckt. Zwänge darunter den Metallspatel ein und Henle alle Rasten auf, so wie im vorigen Schritt.
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Wiederhole das am Boden des Lautsprechers. Heble das Gehäuse mit den Fingern auf.
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Drehe die vier silberfarbenen 9 mm J0 Kreuzschlitzschrauben heraus.
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Entferne genauso die zwei schwarzen 7 mm Schrauben.
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Entlöte die beiden Enden der grünen Bluetooth Platine mit einem Lötkolben.
Great instructions here guys - just one comment from myself - underneath the plate there is glue holding it down as well as the solder joints. Be sure to heat it up slightly prior to lifting out otherwise the capacitors and other components get stuck in the glue.
bei mir sieht der blootooth-adapter anders aus. da muss ich nix löten, er ist klein und liegt nur in einer passenden mulde, aus der er herausgehoben und in die er wieder abgelegt werden kann. meine typbezeichnung ist S-00122.
Definitely start with the middle one, has 2 solder hinge points that took me a couple minutes to heat up, wiggle and finally lift up. One that side lifted, was much easier to go back to the edge hinge, heat up and just gently pull off.
It is importante to note that there are two large solder hinge points and for the midle to pin point. Easy to desoldering but not easy to soldering after battery replacement.
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Wenn die Bluetooth Platine entlötet ist, kannst du sie entfernen. Dein Gerät sieht dann so aus.
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Öffne die Rasten an der Lautsprecherhülle auf ganzer Länge mit dem Metallspatel.
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Löse die Hülle mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug vom Boden des Lautsprechers.
Zuerst auf der Gegenseite zuerst den Deckel, dann die Hülle lösen. Erst am Ende die Seite mit dem Power Button.
Translation: First loosen the cover on the opposite side, then the cover. Only at the end the page with the power button.
Dan -
A tips that could be help lot of us. i consider it what not easy to pry the sleeve off. But in fact there are many hole around the side that could be used to push through the holes, the plastic ring retainer.
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Drehe die acht schwarzen 14 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #1 an der Langseite des Gehäuses heraus.
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Wenn die Schrauben entfernt sind, kannst du das Gehäuse auf hebeln, um an die Innenteile zu gelangen.
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Entferne die 9,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #2 von der größeren Platine, welche den Lautsprecher umschließt.
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Nachdem du alle Schrauben entfernt hast, kannst du die Platinen entfernen, um an den Akku zu gelangen.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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Cal Poly, Team 4-1, Maness Fall 2015 Mitglied von Cal Poly, Team 4-1, Maness Fall 2015
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27 Kommentare
What battery is required?
You've got to be joking - so you spend £100 on a speaker and then need a degree in electrical engineering to replace the battery - what a load of s***e
exactly, I agree
I replaced the battery in mine. It took about an hour and it was easy, while the instructions appear complicated, undoing a few screws and folding back some tabs took only a few seconds. Before I replaced the battery my Boom had failed completely. Nothing I tried kicked the dead battery into working again, so I had two choices. Try replacing the battery or chucking it in the bin. So I bought a battery and had a go. I read up and had the right tools, and as luck favours the prepared, I was successful. The only warning I can think of is that out of the box the Boom is water resistant I believe, but post repair, I doubt it’s water resistant now.
Don't pry open the entire thing. Open the side with the d-ring, there should be 4 screws like in the pic above and access to battery directly under that. There's instructions for changing battery in the box.
Where are those instructions because mine didn't come with any set of instructions other than a quick guide for using it for the first time.
Yeah, what battery is required.
YouTube has a great video & then i ordered the battery from e-bay
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpHjhUjr...
on e-bay
Brand New Panasonic 18650 NCR18650B 3400mah Rechargeable Battery, with Tabs,
Thanks for those instructions, if using the Panasonic 18650 3400mah battery to replace original, I assume you just cut the three wires, red, black and white attached to connector and resolver to 18650 terminals...
My question is to,which terminal do you attach which wires?
Does anyone know where I can take the UE Boom to have the battery replaced?
Hi there, my comment is as above. Does anyone know where you can take the UE Boom in, to get the battery replaced as it seems like a complicated procedure doing it yourself. I’ve contacted Logitech and thy are unable to offer any assistance on who to take it to but just to buy a replacement battery and DIY. Does anyone know what the battery model is to replace if you do decide to DIY? Thanks.
The battery in mine is a standard Panasonic NCR16850B 3.6V 3200mAh. Got a new one for $7. Unfortunately, the guide stops short of the end of the procedure. After you complete step 16, you have to then cut open the black shrink wrap with something like a razor blade. Then you will find a circuit board with metals tabs connecting to each battery terminal. You’ve have to desolder the terminals from the old battery then solder them to the new battery. If you know how to solder, it’s not difficult, but be sure you have the tools before you even begin taking the UE Boom apart or else you won’t be able to finish the job.
I found battery on e bay for $30 but what about if is not the battery and is charging port ?
Do you need to include a new Bluetooth adapter with a new battery purchase? What's the procedure on reconnecting the Bluetooth adapter.
Step 6 and more aren't necessary. once you opened it like on step 5. you will see the 3 wire and the battery. You can't pull out the battery without disconnecting the wire. For that push the hard plastic between the wire and the battery in battery direction. then carefully unplug the connector. once done you can replace the battery. You can by battery on the web that already have the same connectors. I bought mine there https://www.batteryupgrade.ch/shopBrowse...
Seriously, nothing beyond step 5 is needed. Pop the bottom (the side with the D ring), unscrew the 4 screws, pull the battery, replace the battery, close up, and done. I did it with mine and it worked beautifully (finally). Done in 20 minutes.
I previously had huuuge dead spots on the OEM battery. Got maybe one session out of it. Now it finally plays as advertised.
Logitech do not support battery replacement. https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/commun...
My experience was exactly as the pictures indicate. I have seen other models of the Boom that had removable end caps and, yes, it was possible to remove only the lower end cap to access the battery. But my latest Boom project needed to be completely disassembled in order to detach the battery from the main board. The end caps were not removable from the case. They were part of the case. I had to remove the switch in order to access the covering , split the case , and unfasten the circuit boards to access the battery. A BIG thank you to the author for posting these instructions and pictures!
I have found it much easier to take off the top and bottom and remove the whole volume control and cover. And then just go in from the bottom near the charge port. It’s a tight fit. But way less work than all this. No soldering involved.
This guide saved my Boom. Thanks! The dismounting was rather easy, the hardest part being the soldering iron step. Dismounting the sleeve with a screwdriver without breaking its two plastic rings proved impossible: I broke each of them into three parts in the process, but it caused no issue when I had to mount it again. It even made it easier.
Mounting was a tad more difficult:
1. The protruding part of the new battery must face the board, otherwise it prevents the casing reassembly.
2. The bottom of the battery must touch the board, and its cables has to leave some room for the USB port cables. Even then, I had to firmly press the bottom part when putting back the screws.
4. Important: before putting back the top and bottom parts of the sleeve, first position the sleeve left and right edges on their marks.
5. I tried hard to put back the switch plate, but I couldn't. When I realized it was just the NFC plate, I decided not to put it back. The Boom works very well without it. And I never used NFC anyway.
Thanks for this tutorial. It was very useful. Several glue, and plastic clips, are on the way. Not easy to restore all of them.
Mine wasn't built like this and is a generation 1. Either this guide is featuring an older version or newer then the Original OE Boom. There is a small board on the + and - side of the speaker that is held together via hope and dreams and is extremely fragile.
That fragile board actually broke the whole speaker, can't even solder it on. Seems like a tamper measure.
This is the first generation of the Boom, you likely have either the 2nd or 3rd
Dan -
Nothing after Step 5 is necessary for the 1st generation UE Boom, nor is any soldering needed. The game changer is to cut out this small plastic "bar" that sits above one side of the battery clip, making it impossible to pull the clip up and out even if you do manage to disconnect it from the socket. I used this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2KX80xS...
My advice, break the tab first, this will give you access to be able to squeeze the clip with pliers and extract it. Note, the actual battery itself is also held in place with some space-filling foam, so you will need to find a way to pull HARD to get it out, and then line up the battery within the cutouts of the foam, otherwise you won't be able to push it back in far enough to screw the cover back on.
You tube has a great video on this and a lot easier no need to destroy the speaker I got the OG more than 10 years ago and it still charges up and lasts about 40 minutes so I do need to change the battery but even if I mess it up I paid 200 from t Moble about 12 years ago and it still sounds great so I will try to change the batteries just because it sounds so sweet and …… well I’ll buy a new one they are a lot cheaper now days
I have the original your boom speaker I got it when my grandson was in kindergarten now he is in the 10th grade still works but I found it. The battery was going low too fast within 30 minutes so what I did was I basically gave it a trickle charge by charging it till it’s stopped in the lights dude steady and then doing it again and it would start charging again and I kept doing that. I did it at least five or six times and I like to listen to music when I go to sleep and when I wake up I’m old now, so I only sleep about maybe six hours But when I woke up it was still playing but now it let me charge it all the way up and I get a very decent amount of time out of it so just a thought you might want to try and charge it until the light stops blinking then stick the charging wire back in it again and it’ll start to blink again keep doing that what you are in fact doing is giving it a trickle charge. Try it you might be surprised.
