Einleitung
Um an das RAM heranzukommen, muss der innere Rahmen ausgebaut werden.
Was du brauchst
-
-
Schalte deinen Mac Mini aus, trenne alle Kabel und drehe ihn um.
-
Führe den Jimmy in den Spalt zwischen dem oberen Aluminiumgehäuse und dem unteren Kunststoffgehäuse ein.
-
Der Jimmy sollte nach ungefähr 9,5 mm stoppen.
-
-
-
Biege den Jimmy vorsichtig nach außen, um den Spalt ein wenig weiterzu öffnen, und hebe das untere Gehäuse ein wenig an.
Patience is your best friend.
Do not insert “jimmy in too far. Marking a line from tip upwards on the tool will prevent too far insertion, possibly breaking tabs or damaging internal components.
To prevent the cover closing back up, small strips of matchbook cover (os equivalent) can be inserted about half inch hold prevent closure.
-
-
-
Wenn du die erste Seite gelöst hast, drehe den Mac Mini und beginne, an der Vorderkante zu hebeln.
-
Biege mit der gleichen Hebelbewegung die Clips nach innen und hebe das untere Gehäuse aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.
-
-
-
Möglicherweise musst du den Jimmy an der Kante entlang bewegen, um alle Clips zu lPosen. Sei geduldig und arbeite dich schrittweise vor.
-
-
-
-
Drehe den Mac Mini wieder auf die Vorderseite und hebe das obere Gehäuse vom unterem Gehäuse ab.
-
-
-
Zuerst soll die Bluetooth -Antenne ausgebaut werden, im Bild links unten gezeigt.
-
-
-
Drücke die beiden Haltearme zueinander und hebe die Bluetooth-Antenne von ihrem Pfosten ab.
Spring loaded
-
-
-
Fasse die Bluetooth-Antenne, die am nächsten bei den Anschlüssen ist, an den Kanten der Platine an und ziehe sie gerade vom inneren Rahmen ab.
On mine, at least, a considerable amount of force was required to get the bluetooth antennas up off the posts. In fact, I ended up pulling so hard one one of them that when it suddenly came up, I broke the antenna cable. Be careful!
They do need a fair bit of force. Best way for me was first finger and thumb underneath, either side of the post; and first finger of the other hand on top to prevent it "jumping". Then just move up in one smooth motion.
Brian -
Did you repair the antenna or just let it go? I broke my antenna too, and I can't tell if it's a 2-conductor coaxial cable or a single conductor that I could resolder.
Note on re-assembly - there is a "pin" formed from the top of the internal frame which needs to go through the corresponding hole in the antenna assembly. Although the antenna will clip down without it being exactly in place, the antenna will not be "sprung" and will probably foul the cover when it is replaced, probably causing damage.
As you almost certainly wouldn't notice this as you replace the cover, do check that this "pin" is aligned and that the antenna is floating on the spring, before replacing the cover.
I realized, that it made it easier when I grab and squeeze just a little on the spiral thing under the antenna while lifting it up.
A more controlled way of remove the bluetooth antennae: lever them gently off. The closer you are to the centre pin, the more force you will exert there, instead of wasting it bending up the board. You already have the tools - the putty knife & the spudger.
Put the putty knife gently under the board on the side of your non-dominant hand, and then the spudger under the board on the side of your dominant hand. Gently lift the handle of the putty knife and apply constant pressure. Then gently push and wriggle the spudger under the other side with your dominant hand and push constantly forward. The further you push forward, the more upward force you will apply.The antenna will pop up before you get the spudger all the way under, and it will only rise a few mm when it does.
Be aware of cable and Bluetooth antenna board upon reinstall. I attempted to reinstall the board as it faced the incorrect direction, and the cable was improperly positioned. The result? Upon snapping the board in, the cable got caught and portion of it was shorn off near the solder. So, be aware of the board and cable positioning on reinstall.
From what I've read elsewhere- the "spiral thing" under the antenna is a plastic clip that
needs to be pinched together with fingertips,to release the antenna from its post.
This should also be done when replacing it, to ensure the antenna will clear the case.
Seems like this detail was skipped in other instructions here.
-
-
-
Ziehe die Antennenplatine nahe an der Vorderseite des mini gerade nach oben vom Rahmen weg und entferne sie.
-
Entferne, wenn nötig, das Klebeband, mit dem die Antennenkabel am inneren Rahmen befestigt sind.
On my late 2009 2.53GHz C2D, there's no tape holding the antenna wire to the frame but it *does* sit in a "clip" formed off part of the internal frame. There's very little slack in the wire for this BT antenna and so it pays to drop the wire back into the "clip" and re-insert the antenna in one motion.
-
-
-
Heble den Stecker am Audiokabel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Audioplatine nach oben ab.
-
-
-
Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, mit denen der innere Rahmen am Gehäuseunterteil befestigt ist:
-
Drei 6,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00
-
Eine 9,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #00
Be careful. There are 2 LONG screws and 2 short ones. Mark which got out where as the short ones do not fit in the long wholes.
Zitat von Patrick Mast:
Be careful. There are 2 LONG screws and 2 short ones. Mark which got out where as the short ones do not fit in the long wholes.
I found one long screw. It goes in the corner right next to the fan.
Also, I would recommend taking the audio cable off nearest to the cd drive and not on the audio board. It's easier to see if it is lined up when reconnecting it.
The screw in the lower right is longer than the other 3
6.7mm and 9.5mm screws are equivalent to what size? PH00....PH0 what? 6.7mm is this PH screwdriver and 9.5mm is this PH screwdriver. Please answer.
P.S. I have your 54 Bit Driver Set and least your Phillips bits are labled as PH0 or PH000 not in a mm lable.
Thanks
Hey Vikingsgy! Looks like we forgot to say #00 in that step, but the tool required for this guide is a Phillips #00! The millimeter measurements are just for the screw lengths, to make sure they go back in the right spots!
It is mystifying why Apple chose not to have proper screw guides in their molded plastic frame, but one false move and you’ll be trying to shake the screws back out again. Make sure you have a magnetic screwdriver, makes reassembly a lot easier.
-
-
-
Beginne an der rückseitigen Kante mit dem Hochheben des inneren Rahmens, bis du merkst, dass sich der verborgene Stecker an der Kante von der Hauptplatine löst. Hebe ihn dann ganz hoch, denke aber immer an die Bluetooth - und 802.11-Kabel.
Be VERY careful when reassembling that your wifi/bluetooth cables don't get caught between the internal frame header and its connector on the motherboard. They're so thin that you will hardly feel this (considering this connector requires a lot of pressure). If you then tighten the screws the connector and the stuck wifi cable will be severely damaged.
This damaged my mini's wifi cable and the connector that the internal frame plugs into. I was able to repair the connector by squeezing the plastic sides back together but it's never been quite right and my wifi cable was completely cut. I removed the wireless daughterboard completely now, as I didn't need it anyway and the mini is working again.
I know I should have checked but I didn't think of it. So this is just a word of warning to others trying the same :)
If you accidentally disconnect the antennas, see Mac mini Model A1283 Antennas Replacement to reconnect them.
I second the comment about trapping wires on reassembly, particularly the WiFi one. The cable's natural tendency is to trap itself between the black plastic airduct section of the internal frame and the corresponding moulding on the base / port side.
In the absence of a third hand, I found that resting the WiFi antenna on top of the optical drive as you lower the internal frame back into position helps position the cable in the right place, rather than leaving the antenna outside the port area.
-
-
-
Drücke die beiden Laschen an den Seiten des RAM-Riegels gleichzeitig nach außen. Diese Laschen halten den Riegel fest, wenn sie nach außen gedrückt werden, "springt" der Riegel heraus.
-
Ziehe den Riegel gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus.
Has anyone tried the 8-gig memory kit from TransIntl?
I'm on the fence between upgrading this or replacing it, but if I'm truly limited to 4 gigs max that's a deciding factor.
If you have the latest EFI for this Mac, the 8GB kit shouldn't be a problem.
-
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
397 weitere Nutzer:innen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.
Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:
100%
VauWeh hilft uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Hier starten ›
8 Kommentare
Well done! Easy to follow and thorough! Took me 10 minutes start to finish!
You probably need to install Mac Mini EFI firmware update 1.2:
Wife has the Late 2009 Macmini (MM) originally with 2GB. We upgraded to 4GB a couple of years ago, and it has been running very slow with Yosemite (10.10.5) for far too long.
Ordered the 8GB upgrade kit and set for 2 day delivery. Bummer it came in 1 day via UPS. Thanks for the surprise iFixit. The tools were unnecessary for me (as I have most), but they are totally outstanding and the real deal. So I decided to use them all. ;)
The upgrade took about 15 min (even for this experienced Mac repair guy). Fired it up and the MM recognized all 8GB. It doesn’t scream, however, it is probably 2-3 times faster and can handle the amazing multi-takser that is my wife; 16 Safari pages, Mac Mail, Calendar, and 7 other apps open at all the same dang time. Thanks iFixit for the absolute best in repair universe parts, service, tech commitment, and guides.
It worked!!! Love it!!! The websites installation guide was very easy to understand. However, the small screwdriver that was shipped with the kit didn’t fit the screws for step-12, almost stripping the screws. luckily, I had another small screwdriver (for glasses) that worked.
Thank you ifixit!!! Totally worth it.
Did it in about 5 Min. The Old Macs are great to work with. One Thing i can recommend is a longer bit for your Skrewdriver.
It worked!!! Got a Mac Mini Late 2009 and the Apple Website told me it just supports 4 GB. Just built in 2 x 4GB RAM and it’ running… Thanks for the great how to guide. I love my Mako Driver Kit from iFixit, best screwdriver kit!!!
Worked, very helpful. The one thing I needed that was different was a prying tool to open the case. The Jimmy was too flimsy on its own. Had to use the Jimmy on one and the painter's tool on the other. The Jimmy by itself was to flimsy, and instead of the case opening, the Jimmy would bend. Note that you need to be careful with this; I ended up bending one of the pins that hold the chassis in place.
A spackle knife makes these steps go much faster.
jouniseppanen - Antwort
A double sided letter opener or a thin non-serrated butter knife will suffice.
To prenent cosmetic blemishes, place a matchbook cover or similar thin cardboard on the outer perimeter under the “jimmy”.
Mike - Antwort