Einleitung
Hier wird der Austausch einer defekten AirPort/Bluetooth Karte gezeigt. Beachte, dass die AirPort Anntennenkabel des MacBook Air 11,6" Modells 2011 länger als beim 2010er Modell sind. Wenn du einfach die Bildschirmeinheit zwischen diesen beiden Modellreihen austauschen wolltest, würde das nicht funktionieren.
Was du brauchst
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Entferne folgende Schrauben:
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Zwei 8mm 5-point Pentalobe Schrauben
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Acht 2,5 mm 5-point Pentalobe Schrauben
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Zwänge deine Finger zwischen Display und Gehäuseunterteil und ziehe nach oben, damit es sich vom Air löst.
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Hebele mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers die beiden kurzen Seiten des Akkusteckers nach oben, um ihn von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.
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Biege das Akkukabel etwas weg vom Logic Board, so dass sich der Stecker nicht wieder versehentlich mit dem Anschluss verbinden kann.
My macbook air's configuration (Mid-2011 core i5) has a different battery connector. It slides into a receptacle on the logic board. If your battery connector does not look like the one pictured, use the pointy end of a spudger to depress the small indentation in the middle of the battery connector cable terminal, and pull aft to release the clasp mechanism.
Maybe your battery connector doesn't match the picture because these instructions are for the mid-2012 model and yours is mid-2011.
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Heble beide Antennenstecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus ihren Anschlüssen auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte hoch.
The reverse operation of this step is a bit tricky since you need to put the two plugs onto the card with a certain angle and click it onto the card in order to fix the position…
I broke one of the ends of the cables and my WiFi goes on and off, I don’t know if it’s something I can fix or what. I’m so annoyed 😒
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Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm Torx T5 Schraube, welche die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte am Logic Board befestigt.
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Hebe das freie Ende der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte etwas hoch und ziehe sie aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
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Entferne die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte aus dem Air.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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Ein Kommentar
HI, I am an ex mac genius who was a genius at apple for 5 years. Please add the following tip to the above and any mac where the battery has no hard casing. The first thing we had to do was to add a plastic shield over the battery as it is not shielded at all. Any puncture of that battery by a screw or screw driver will cause and explosion of the battery. So please take care to install a plastic shield before working on the mac. Take the back off, install the shield. At apple we had specific shields that fit the batteries exactly. Try to get these or at the very least tape a protective plastic sheild that covers the entire battery before working. If it does explode we had a safe with a bag and some sort of solution in it. Be careful with all macs that have an exposed style battery. They did this to make the computers thinner, but the shield that was removed to make this happen, must be replaced when working on the machines. Thank you.
When you say:
Remove the following ten screws:
Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.
Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?
Nerdily yours,
Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)
larryleveen - Antwort
The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).
Michael Welham -
I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.
Allen - Antwort
The magnetic mat is
GERARD SZAREK -
Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.
Frank O'Carroll - Antwort
A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.
Michael Mee - Antwort
Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!
Lilljedahl -
I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.
It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.
I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?
AMG - Antwort
The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)
Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.
Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372
Hope this helps! -Dan
danielwen -
I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?
Robert Hermans - Antwort
Hi Robert!
Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!
Arthur Shi -
Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy
vensilver - Antwort
Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.
Arthur Shi -
The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.
Rachel Slatkin - Antwort