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Einleitung

Hier wird gezeigt, wie dein MacBook wieder drahtlose Verbindungen aufbauen kann, indem du die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte austauschst.

    • Bevor du anfängst, fahre dein MacBook herunter. Schließe das Display und lege dein MacBook mit der Unterseite nach oben auf eine weiche Unterlage.

    • Benutze einen P5 Pentalobe-Schraubendreher, um folgende zehn Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 9 mm Schrauben

    • Acht 2,6 mm Schrauben

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Antwort

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Antwort

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Antwort

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Antwort

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Antwort

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Antwort

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Antwort

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Antwort

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Antwort

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Antwort

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Antwort

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Antwort

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Antwort

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Antwort

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Antwort

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Antwort

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Antwort

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Antwort

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Antwort

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Antwort

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Antwort

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Antwort

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Antwort

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Antwort

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Antwort

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Antwort

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Antwort

  1. Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.
    • Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.

    • Entferne das hintere Gehäuse und lege es beiseite.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Antwort

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Antwort

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Antwort

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Antwort

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Antwort

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Antwort

  2. Um sicherzustellen, dass kein Strom fließt und sich das MacBook nicht einschaltet während du arbeitest, ist es empfehlenswert, den Akku abzutrennen. Ziehe die durchsichtige Kunststofflasche, die am Akkustecker angebracht ist, parallel zur Oberfläche der Leiterplatte in Richtung Vorderkante des Air.
    • Um sicherzustellen, dass kein Strom fließt und sich das MacBook nicht einschaltet während du arbeitest, ist es empfehlenswert, den Akku abzutrennen.

    • Ziehe die durchsichtige Kunststofflasche, die am Akkustecker angebracht ist, parallel zur Oberfläche der Leiterplatte in Richtung Vorderkante des Air.

    • Ziehe den Stecker beim Trennen nicht nach oben, du riskierst sonst eine Beschädigung des Anschlusses.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Antwort

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Antwort

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - Antwort

  3. Heble beide Antennenstecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus ihren Anschlüssen auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte hoch. Heble beide Antennenstecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus ihren Anschlüssen auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte hoch.
    • Heble beide Antennenstecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus ihren Anschlüssen auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte hoch.

    using tweezers to reconnect the antenna connectors made it easier

    James Walsh - Antwort

  4. Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm Torx T5 Schraube, welche die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte am Logic Board befestigt.
    • Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm Torx T5 Schraube, welche die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte am Logic Board befestigt.

  5. Hebe das freie Ende der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte etwas hoch und ziehe sie aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Um zu vermeiden, den Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu beschädigen, hebe das freie Ende der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte nicht zu weit hoch.
    • Hebe das freie Ende der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte etwas hoch und ziehe sie aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Um zu vermeiden, den Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu beschädigen, hebe das freie Ende der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte nicht zu weit hoch.

    • Entferne die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte aus dem Air.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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Sam Goldheart

Mitglied seit: 18.10.2012

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Hi! I did this as the bluetooth was not working on my macbook air (after water damage). Once I replaced it, instead of a "bluetooth not available" dialogue, Bluetooth options now do not appear in the System Preferences window, and in the system report, it just says "no information available".

Is this a connection issue, did I get the wrong card, or did the water damage actually destroy the antennae? Wifi works fine both before and after replacing the card.

Campbell Robinson - Antwort

Hi,

i opened up my Mac and cleaned it after water because it was running slow and the fan was going crazy. IT worked and I hadn’t no notebook issues when I ran apple diagnostics but now I can’t see all my wifi networks or even connect to my phone wireless hotspot And it keeps saying password invalid wen it’s always right!

The wifi shows the same networks like 3 of them but there use to be at least 30 as I live in an apartment block. Is this a airport problem or antenna??

Peeppeep - Antwort

I cannot get the airport card antenna wires to connect to the new airport card. Is there some trick to getting them to snap in place?

rhood2796 - Antwort

for connecting antenna wires to airport card. You need to hold in place with tweazers then push down with finger or blunt spudger. be careful as you dont want to damage to connector if not placed perfectly in place. ive damaged one before so if it doesnt feel right dont apply to much pressure. reseat and try again

Jay - Antwort

Hi Sam, Evan, all,

I have some difficult technical questions I’d really like to ask I do not need you to condone regarding some BGA/soldering repairs. I’d love to ask you some spec questions. You’re well versed in Apple tech and I a computing-array guy. I would love a message back wherever you’re comfortable. I am building up to the intense process of motherboard creation & design with have no illusions that this is easy (I have done my research). I’m going to desolder the RAM here & it I have plenty of parts to break now so <20% chance is fine. My current project requires honing skills. When I get to the higher echelons/PRICEY equipment I need a proficient competency in this basic stuff as foundation.

Email is ibrad215@gmail.com I doubt you want a public answer on a guide for anyone with Google, but I could really use some help making a few decisions I won’t hold against you if they fail. Call it computer science and not faultless repair, & a chance to learn I will gladly share w/you as research!

@sam @evan

ibrad215 - Antwort

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