Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch eines defekten Logic Boards gezeigt.

  • Bevor du anfängst, fahre dein Gerät herunter. Schließe das Display und lege es umgekehrt auf eine weiche Oberfläche.

  • Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben:

    • Zwei 9 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

    • Acht 2,6 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

  • Der Spezialschraubenzieher, der zum Entfernen der zehn 5-Punkt Pentalobe Schrauben benötigt wird, ist hier erhältlich.

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Antwort

My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

BrianM -

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Antwort

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Antwort

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Antwort

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Antwort

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Antwort

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Antwort

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Antwort

Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

anne uhlir - Antwort

im looking for a Logic Board for a

Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

Any help is appreciated.

Jamie Comstock - Antwort

P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

William Skinner - Antwort

Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

Dennis Eaton - Antwort

Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.
  • Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.

  • Entferne das hintere Gehäuse und lege es beiseite.

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

Jeannie Crowley - Antwort

When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

Gabriel - Antwort

  • Als Vorsichtsmaßnahme gegen versehentliches Entladen oder einen Elektroschock, trenne die Akkusteckverbindung vom Logic Board.

  • Nimm die durchsichtige Abziehlasche aus Kunststoff, die an der Akkusteckverbindung befestigt ist, und ziehe sie in Richtung der Vorderseite des Airs, um den Akku von dem Logic Board zu trennen.

  • Achte darauf, die Steckverbindung horizontal in Richtung des Akkus zu ziehen und nicht gerade nach oben vom Air weg, da andernfalls die Fassung auf dem Logic Board Schaden nehmen kann.

The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

mjmorawski - Antwort

  • Heble mit dem flache Ende eines Spudgers den Stecker des I/O Blendenkabels aus seiner Fassung auf der I/O Blende.

Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

Ben - Antwort

  • Löse das I/O Blendenkabel vorsichtig von der Oberseite des Lüfters.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Der folgende Anschluss hat eine besonders tiefgelegte Fassung. Sei vorsichtig, wenn du ihn ablöst.

  • Während du vorsichtig das I/O Blendenkabel nach oben in Richtung seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board ziehst, heble mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers abwechselnd auf beiden Seiten des Anschlusses, um ihn nach und nach aus seiner Fassung zu lösen.

  • Entferne das I/O Blendenkabel.

This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

yurkennis - Antwort

Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

David Robillard - Antwort

  • Klappe mit der Spudgerspitze vorsichtig die Halteklappe auf dem ZIF-Sockel des Lüftungskabels hoch.

  • Stelle sicher, dass du an der schwenkbaren Halteklappe hebelst und nicht an der Fassung selbst.

It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

ezequielaceto - Antwort

It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

Goth70 Fuzed - Antwort

If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

Lester Newsom - Antwort

I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

David Robillard - Antwort

Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

Adam Banko - Antwort

  • Löse die Gummidichtung vom Kleber oben auf dem Lüfter.

Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

davecortesi - Antwort

  • Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen den Lüfter an der oberen Schale befestigt ist:

    • Eine 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 2,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube mit einem kurzen Kopf.

  • Hebe den Lüfter aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus und ziehe das Flachbandkabel des Lüfters vorsichtig aus seiner Fassung heraus, wenn du es vom Air entfernst.

Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

kennyavis81 - Antwort

On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

paul deacon - Antwort

The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

peteragries - Antwort

This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

leesparey - Antwort

Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

Allen - Antwort

Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

jerry bennett - Antwort

  • Trenne das I/O Blende, indem du das Netzkabel aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board entfernst.

  • Ziehe das Kabel parallel zu der Oberfläche des Logic Boards in Richtung der rechten Kante des Airs.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Ziehe das Kamerakabel parallel zu der Vorderseite der I/O Blende in Richtung der Ecke des Airs, um es von seiner Fassung zu trennen. Mit der Spudgerspitze kannst du nachhelfen, um den Stecker aus seiner Fassung zu bekommen.

  • Ziehe dieses Kabel nicht nach oben, während du es trennst, da sonst die Fassung aus dem Logic Board herausbrechen kann.

Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

Allen - Antwort

My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

Phillip Remaker - Antwort

Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

Gianni Borghesan -

  • Heble mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Kabelstecker des linken Lautsprechers nach oben und aus der Fassung auf der I/O Blende heraus.

  • Setze mit dem Hebeln unter den Kabel an.

  • Hole das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus seiner Halterung auf der I/O Blende.

On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

Anyone know what this means.

Daniel Thomas - Antwort

  • Heble den Mikrofon Kabelstecker mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus seiner Fassung auf der I/O Blende.

  • Setze mit dem Hebeln unterhalb der Kabel an.

Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

Dallas Guy - Antwort

What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

adamwitz -

I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.

Lorenzo

Lorenzo Cangiano - Antwort

Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

Lorenzo Cangiano -

I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

coopermarcus - Antwort

Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

Allen - Antwort

  • Entferne die einzelne 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der die I/O Blende am oberen Gehäuseteil festgemacht ist.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Hebe das I/O Board vorsichtig von der Ecke, die am nahesten am Logic Board ist, her an und entferne sie vom oberen Gehäuseteil.

When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

coopermarcus - Antwort

Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!

davecortesi - Antwort

  • Entferne die folgenden fünf Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse festmachen.

    • Drei 6,3 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 2,4 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

Mike Dacre - Antwort

  • Vermeide beim Umgang mit dem Akku die vier Lithium-Polymer-Zellen einzudrücken oder zu berühren.

  • Hebe den Akku von der Logic Board-Seite her an und entferne sie aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Klappe den Halteclip auf dem ZIF Sockel des Tastfeld-Flachbandkabels mit der Spudgerspitze oder einem Fingernagel nach oben.

  • Achte darauf, an dem klappbaren Halteclip zu hebeln und nicht direkt am Sockel.

  • Ziehe das Tastfeld-Flachbandkabel gerade aus seinem Sockel heraus in Richtung der vorderen Kante des Geräts.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Klappe den Halteclip des Flachbandkabel des ZIF-Sockels der Tatsturhintergrundbeleuchtung mit der Spudgerspitze nach oben.

  • Achte darauf, an dem klappbaren Halteclip zu hebeln und nicht direkt am Sockel.

  • Verwende den Spudger, um das Kabel aus der Fassung herauszuholen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Heble den Kabelstecker der rechten Lautsprechers mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne ihn von seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board.

  • Setze mit dem Hebeln unterhalb der Kabel an.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Drücke vorsichtig die Spudgerspitze gegen den schwarzen Kunststoffclip, der am Displaydatenkabelschloss angebracht ist, so dass das Schloss nach oben und weg von dem Sockel poppt.

  • Während du das Schloss von der Fassung auf Abstand hälst, entferne mit einem Spudger und deinen Fingern das Displaydatenkabel aus seiner Fassung.

  • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel nicht nach oben, wenn du es trennst, da ansonsten die Fassung vom Logic Board brechen kann.

Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

Christopher Fernandes - Antwort

I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

Gian Carlo -

Agree. Use tweezers.

sdcsoup -

  • Heble beide Antennenkabelstecker mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne sie aus ihren Sockeln auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.

When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

Ringo CoC - Antwort

Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

yuroen - Antwort

I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

kcunningham - Antwort

  • Hole die Antennenkabel vorsichtig aus ihren Slots auf dem Logic Board.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Entferne die einzelne 2,85 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der die SSD am Logic Board befestigt ist.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Um Schäden am Anschluss zu vermeiden, hebe das Ende der SSD nicht zu stark an.

  • Ziehe das Laufwerk gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus und entferne es vom Logic Board.

  • Wenn du die SSD wieder einsetzt, gehe sicher, dass sie richtig positioniert ist, bevor du die Schraube wieder eindrehst.

Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

divinity76 - Antwort

  • Entferne die sechs 6,3 mm T5 Torx Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

Timothy Button - Antwort

These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

Timothy Button - Antwort

My screws were 4.xx mm

Gabe - Antwort

These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

Doc Halstater - Antwort

I’ll second this observation.

sjosefw -

When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

Shiv Sikand - Antwort

  • Entferne die inneren zwei 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schrauben, mit denen der Antennenkabelhalter und das linke Kupplungsscharnier am oberen Gehäuse festgemacht ist.

These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

Hanii Puppy - Antwort

This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

forestsprite -

I also had T9 screws on my device.

I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

wolfgang07 - Antwort

Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

kcunningham - Antwort

  • Bewege den Antennenkabelhalter etwas beiseite und entferne die 3 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der das Ende des Wärmeableiters am oberen Gehäuse festgemacht ist.

"remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

yurkennis - Antwort

  • Entferne die Logic Board Einheit vorsichtig vom obere Gehäuse und achte dabei auf Kabel, die im Weg sein könnten.

  • Achte darauf, dass die Antennenkabel nicht im Weg sind, wenn du die Wärmeableiter-Seite des Logic Boards aus dem oberen Gehäuse hebst.

On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

davecortesi - Antwort

  • Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm Torx T5 Schraube, welche die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte am Logic Board befestigt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Hebe das freie Ende der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte ein wenig an und ziehe es aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  • Entferne die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte vom Logic Board.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Entferne die vier 2,5 mm Torx T5 Schrauben, welche den Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Wenn der Kühlkörper scheinbar noch am Logic Board festklebt, nachdem die vier Schrauben gelöst sind, dann kannst du den Kühlkörper mit einem Spudger von den Oberflächen von CPU und GPU trennen.

  • Entferne den Kühlkörper vom Logic Board.

  • Wenn du den Kühlkörper wieder anbringst, darfst du nicht vergessen eine neue Schicht Wärmeleitpaste aufzutragen. Wenn du noch nicht mit Wärmeleitpaste gearbeitet hast, haben wir eine Anleitung, die dir zeigt, wie das geht.

Arctic Silver's application guide http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_applic... shows mobile 15 processors for 2nd generation, recommending a spread technique. But the 3-7th gen i5 only lists vertical line technique. I can find the actual processor model used in the 13" mid-2011 MBA (Core i5-2557M, found here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4528/the-2...), but no way to correlate that to 2nd gen, 3d gen, etc.

I'm going to go with spread because it seems generally safer for laptops, but if anyone can confirm: What generation is the Core i5-2557M; and if it's later generation (3- on), is it really vertical line vs. spread?

Allen - Antwort

Allen, it's been a while since you did the repair. Have you had any problems with overheating? Or anything else that might be caused by spread vs. vertical line?

Talon -

i’m looking for a CPU under the heatsink. is that integrated onto the mobo as well??

davidjercinovic - Antwort

  • Das Logic Board bleibt zurück.

  • Achte beim Einbau des Logic Boards darauf, dass die Gummidichtung korrekt sitzt. Die Noppe an der Dichtung muss in die Vertiefung im Logic Board in der Nähe der Kühlkörperrippen passen.

  • Die Gummidichtung muss an das Ende des Kühlkörpers anschließen, so wie im zweiten Bild gezeigt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziellinie

47 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:

100%

Diese Übersetzer helfen uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Beginne zu übersetzen ›

This does not show the battery removal in the early steps, but it is shown as removed in later steps.

Jason - Antwort

Thanks for pointing that out! Missing steps have been added :)

Andrew Optimus Goldberg -

Thanks i fixed my MacBook Air (11 inch) with this tutorial.

My MBA became very slow after a water spill over the keyboard.

Although Hardware check said everything was fine, i disabled the MB and found a spot with corrosion, after removing the corrosion and assembling it was on speed again. the water spill was some months ago so it had some time to corrode and show were a clean was needed :-)

Wat I real appreciatie is the accurate way of description of the connector disassembly :-)

Gert Jan Bollen - Antwort

Would it be possible to upgrade this machine to hold a newer logic board?

Get That Geek - Antwort

No. There are no compatible logic boards that I am aware of.

Talon -

with a little bit of skills you dont need to remove the T8 screws. But be sure not to damage the cable

Moritz Mustermann - Antwort

[|your guide was really helpfull, but I´m looking for a piece that was ripped out (I took it to a store to get it cleaned, and they trick me) and would be great if you can help me, if you have an email account so i can send you the picture. The little piece is like a chip next to the airport/bluetooth board, the tiny tiny one.]

David Mejía - Antwort

Thank you for this, it was really helpfull, but I actually have a little problem that you can help me with. I took my MacBook to a store to get it cleaned and I think they trick me, I found out later that a little piece had been ripped out, i’m trying to replace it but I don’t know the name or where to find it, its the little piece that is next to the airport/bluetooth board, the tiny tiny one. If you have an email account so I can send you the picture, would be great if you can help me out.

thanks !

David Mejía - Antwort

Top! Top! Top!

Das Macbook gab nur mehr 3 Töne fortwährend bei 5 Sekunden Pause von sich. Habe dann nach dieser Anleitung Punkt für Punkt das Board demontiert, anschliessend bei 190 Grad während 8 Minuten in den Backofen , und siehe da, das Macbook läuft wieder.

Vielen Dank für die tolle Anleitung.

Weber - Antwort

No experience in computers what so ever but when my girlfriend s computer started beeping I decided to try my luck with this guide. Just took it slow and steady following the steps of the guide. Once I removed the logic board from the computer I put it in the oven for 7 minutes at 170 C. Now it works perfectly again!

Thank you for the guide, was really helpful and easy to follow!

2011 Macbook air

Oztrail - Antwort

Hi. My macbook air 13” mid 2011 simply does not start. Green led on permanently in the charger. I simply do not know if the logic board is damaged or is a simple case of soding some chip. How do i get the guide of voltage of the parts of the macbook air? So then i can show to a specializer that can test the voltage of each part of the macbook air logic board.

Yorgo Pilippe - Antwort

Kommentar hinzufügen

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