Was du brauchst
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Klappe den Halteclip auf dem ZIF Sockel des Tastfeld-Flachbandkabels mit der Spudgerspitze oder einem Fingernagel nach oben.
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Achte darauf, an dem klappbaren Halteclip zu hebeln und nicht direkt am Sockel.
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Klappe den Halteclip des Flachbandkabel des ZIF-Sockels der Tatsturhintergrundbeleuchtung mit der Spudgerspitze nach oben.
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Verwende den Spudger, um das Kabel aus der Fassung herauszuholen.
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Heble den Kabelstecker der rechten Lautsprechers mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne ihn von seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board.
To snap back in, place speaker cable connector directly on top of socket and press down with your finger or tool.
This has to be done very gently. I only applied a mild lift and the socket broke off from the board. I had to say good-bye to the right speaker. :-(
Read my comment about using tweezers for the left speaker cable connector. But for some reason, the right connector was a little more tight and took more effort than the left speaker cable connector.
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Drücke vorsichtig die Spudgerspitze gegen den schwarzen Kunststoffclip, der am Displaydatenkabelschloss angebracht ist, so dass das Schloss nach oben und weg von dem Sockel poppt.
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Während du das Schloss von der Fassung auf Abstand hälst, entferne mit einem Spudger und deinen Fingern das Displaydatenkabel aus seiner Fassung.
Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....
I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully
Agree. Use tweezers.
sdcsoup -
You should place the tip of the spudger on top of the connector and push out. At first I had the tip of the spudger on the bottom and tried to push up and that was incorrect.
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Heble beide Antennenkabelstecker mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne sie aus ihren Sockeln auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.
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Entferne die einzelne 2,85 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der die SSD am Logic Board befestigt ist.
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Ziehe das Laufwerk gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus und entferne es vom Logic Board.
Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )
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Entferne die sechs 6,3 mm T5 Torx Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.
These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.
These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)
I’ll second this observation.
sjosefw -
When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it
I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?
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Entferne die inneren zwei 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schrauben, mit denen der Antennenkabelhalter und das linke Kupplungsscharnier am oberen Gehäuse festgemacht ist.
These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.
This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.
I also had T9 screws on my device.
I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.
Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.
Mine were T8 and my T8 bit worked fine.
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Bewege den Antennenkabelhalter etwas beiseite und entferne die 3 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der das Ende des Wärmeableiters am oberen Gehäuse festgemacht ist.
When I was re-assembling, the screw hole of the heat sink didn’t align. I applied a mild force then the edge of the heat sink broke off from the rest, losing the contact to the case. I am hoping the Air would work for a while during the test run (if it ever works) but I would buy a replacement heat sink for regular use.
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Entferne die Logic Board Einheit vorsichtig vom obere Gehäuse und achte dabei auf Kabel, die im Weg sein könnten.
On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.
Removal of logic board and all the steps leading up to it I found unnecessary. They may be good for some but I really didn't need to dismantle the laptop as much as this guide shows to get the display off. Just my opinion, of course.
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Ein Kommentar
Excellent guide, thank you very much.
Logic board removed from my daughter’s Air, cooked for 8m at 200C, cooled, reinstalled, and now works again.
I was able to remove and replace the 5th heatsink retaining screw without moving the antenna retainer.
Cheers, Aidan
Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?
Nigel Anderson - Antwort
I lost the retaining flap so I don’t know if it can stay in place without the retaining flap
SK Alias - Antwort