Hier wird der Austausch einer defekten Displayeinheit gezeigt.

    • Bevor du anfängst, fahre dein Gerät herunter. Schließe das Display und lege es umgekehrt auf eine weiche Oberfläche.

    • Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben:

      • Zwei 9 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

      • Acht 2,6 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

    • Der Spezialschraubenzieher, der zum Entfernen der zehn 5-Punkt Pentalobe Schrauben benötigt wird, ist hier erhältlich.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - Antwort

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The pentalobe screw size is 1.2 mm for Macbook Air.

    Jose Gustavo Abreu Murta -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - Antwort

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Antwort

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Antwort

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Antwort

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Antwort

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Antwort

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Antwort

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Antwort

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Antwort

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Antwort

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Antwort

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Antwort

  1. Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.
    • Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.

    • Entferne das hintere Gehäuse und lege es beiseite.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Antwort

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Antwort

    • Als Vorsichtsmaßnahme gegen versehentliches Entladen oder einen Elektroschock, trenne die Akkusteckverbindung vom Logic Board.

    • Nimm die durchsichtige Abziehlasche aus Kunststoff, die an der Akkusteckverbindung befestigt ist, und ziehe sie in Richtung der Vorderseite des Airs, um den Akku von dem Logic Board zu trennen.

    • Achte darauf, die Steckverbindung horizontal in Richtung des Akkus zu ziehen und nicht gerade nach oben vom Air weg, da andernfalls die Fassung auf dem Logic Board Schaden nehmen kann.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - Antwort

    • Heble mit dem flache Ende eines Spudgers den Stecker des I/O Blendenkabels aus seiner Fassung auf der I/O Blende.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - Antwort

    • Löse das I/O Blendenkabel vorsichtig von der Oberseite des Lüfters.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Der folgende Anschluss hat eine besonders tiefgelegte Fassung. Sei vorsichtig, wenn du ihn ablöst.

    • Während du vorsichtig das I/O Blendenkabel nach oben in Richtung seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board ziehst, heble mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers abwechselnd auf beiden Seiten des Anschlusses, um ihn nach und nach aus seiner Fassung zu lösen.

    • Entferne das I/O Blendenkabel.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - Antwort

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - Antwort

    • Klappe mit der Spudgerspitze vorsichtig die Halteklappe auf dem ZIF-Sockel des Lüftungskabels hoch.

    • Stelle sicher, dass du an der schwenkbaren Halteklappe hebelst und nicht an der Fassung selbst.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - Antwort

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - Antwort

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - Antwort

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - Antwort

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - Antwort

    • Löse die Gummidichtung vom Kleber oben auf dem Lüfter.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - Antwort

    • Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen den Lüfter an der oberen Schale befestigt ist:

      • Eine 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube

      • Eine 2,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube

      • Eine 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube mit einem kurzen Kopf.

    • Hebe den Lüfter aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus und ziehe das Flachbandkabel des Lüfters vorsichtig aus seiner Fassung heraus, wenn du es vom Air entfernst.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - Antwort

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - Antwort

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - Antwort

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - Antwort

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - Antwort

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - Antwort

    • Trenne das I/O Blende, indem du das Netzkabel aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board entfernst.

    • Ziehe das Kabel parallel zu der Oberfläche des Logic Boards in Richtung der rechten Kante des Airs.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Ziehe das Kamerakabel parallel zu der Vorderseite der I/O Blende in Richtung der Ecke des Airs, um es von seiner Fassung zu trennen. Mit der Spudgerspitze kannst du nachhelfen, um den Stecker aus seiner Fassung zu bekommen.

    • Ziehe dieses Kabel nicht nach oben, während du es trennst, da sonst die Fassung aus dem Logic Board herausbrechen kann.

    Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

    Allen - Antwort

    My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

    Phillip Remaker - Antwort

    Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

    Gianni Borghesan -

  2. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    • Heble mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Kabelstecker des linken Lautsprechers nach oben und aus der Fassung auf der I/O Blende heraus.

    • Setze mit dem Hebeln unter den Kabel an.

    • Hole das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus seiner Halterung auf der I/O Blende.

    On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

    Anyone know what this means.

    Daniel Thomas - Antwort

    • Heble den Mikrofon Kabelstecker mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus seiner Fassung auf der I/O Blende.

    • Setze mit dem Hebeln unterhalb der Kabel an.

    Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

    Dallas Guy - Antwort

    What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

    adamwitz -

    I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

    Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.


    Lorenzo Cangiano - Antwort

    Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

    Lorenzo Cangiano -

    I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

    coopermarcus - Antwort

    Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

    Allen - Antwort

    • Entferne die einzelne 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der die I/O Blende am oberen Gehäuseteil festgemacht ist.

    The screw was stripped and I couldn’t remove it, but it didn’t matter, I could complete removal of the logic board without removing the I/O board. I think the steps involved with disconnecting the I/O board are redundant.

    Nigel Anderson - Antwort

    • Hebe das I/O Board vorsichtig von der Ecke, die am nahesten am Logic Board ist, her an und entferne sie vom oberen Gehäuseteil.

    When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

    coopermarcus - Antwort

    Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!

    davecortesi - Antwort

    • Entferne die folgenden fünf Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse festmachen.

      • Drei 6,3 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

      • Zwei 2,4 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

    Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

    Mike Dacre - Antwort

    • Vermeide beim Umgang mit dem Akku die vier Lithium-Polymer-Zellen einzudrücken oder zu berühren.

    • Hebe den Akku von der Logic Board-Seite her an und entferne sie aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Klappe den Halteclip auf dem ZIF Sockel des Tastfeld-Flachbandkabels mit der Spudgerspitze oder einem Fingernagel nach oben.

    • Achte darauf, an dem klappbaren Halteclip zu hebeln und nicht direkt am Sockel.

    • Ziehe das Tastfeld-Flachbandkabel gerade aus seinem Sockel heraus in Richtung der vorderen Kante des Geräts.

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson - Antwort

    • Klappe den Halteclip des Flachbandkabel des ZIF-Sockels der Tatsturhintergrundbeleuchtung mit der Spudgerspitze nach oben.

    • Achte darauf, an dem klappbaren Halteclip zu hebeln und nicht direkt am Sockel.

    • Verwende den Spudger, um das Kabel aus der Fassung herauszuholen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Heble den Kabelstecker der rechten Lautsprechers mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne ihn von seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board.

    • Setze mit dem Hebeln unterhalb der Kabel an.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Drücke vorsichtig die Spudgerspitze gegen den schwarzen Kunststoffclip, der am Displaydatenkabelschloss angebracht ist, so dass das Schloss nach oben und weg von dem Sockel poppt.

    • Während du das Schloss von der Fassung auf Abstand hälst, entferne mit einem Spudger und deinen Fingern das Displaydatenkabel aus seiner Fassung.

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel nicht nach oben, wenn du es trennst, da ansonsten die Fassung vom Logic Board brechen kann.

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes - Antwort

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

    • Heble beide Antennenkabelstecker mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne sie aus ihren Sockeln auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC - Antwort

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen - Antwort

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham - Antwort

    • Hole die Antennenkabel vorsichtig aus ihren Slots auf dem Logic Board.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die einzelne 2,85 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der die SSD am Logic Board befestigt ist.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Um Schäden am Anschluss zu vermeiden, hebe das Ende der SSD nicht zu stark an.

    • Ziehe das Laufwerk gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus und entferne es vom Logic Board.

    • Wenn du die SSD wieder einsetzt, gehe sicher, dass sie richtig positioniert ist, bevor du die Schraube wieder eindrehst.

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 - Antwort

    • Entferne die sechs 6,3 mm T5 Torx Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button - Antwort

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button - Antwort

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe - Antwort

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater - Antwort

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand - Antwort

    • Entferne die inneren zwei 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schrauben, mit denen der Antennenkabelhalter und das linke Kupplungsscharnier am oberen Gehäuse festgemacht ist.

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - Antwort

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - Antwort

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham - Antwort

    • Bewege den Antennenkabelhalter etwas beiseite und entferne die 3 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der das Ende des Wärmeableiters am oberen Gehäuse festgemacht ist.

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis - Antwort

    • Entferne die Logic Board Einheit vorsichtig vom obere Gehäuse und achte dabei auf Kabel, die im Weg sein könnten.

    • Achte darauf, dass die Antennenkabel nicht im Weg sind, wenn du die Wärmeableiter-Seite des Logic Boards aus dem oberen Gehäuse hebst.

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi - Antwort

    • Hole vorsichtig die Antennenkabel aus ihrem Kanal im oberen Gehäuseteil.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die inneren beiden 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schrauben, die das rechte Displayscharnier am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Die dritte Schraube lassen wir absichtlich eingedreht, da das von Vorteil für die nächsten Schritte ist.

    Again, these are T9 screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - Antwort

    Dear all,

    on my Air I dropped water and now the display looks without backlight... I can type with no issue, as well the backlight of the keyboard is working fine, audio too but the display doesn't show the light also if boosted at top. What's happened?


    sev7en - Antwort

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    Like in Step28 I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. Comes in handy in Step 33 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - Antwort

    Does anyone know if it will work without the display assembly all together? I just want to remove it and plug into an external monitor.

    Andrew White - Antwort

    I recommend to loosen outward screws at this step, so it is easier to completely unscrew them on the next step.

    yurkennis - Antwort

    • Öffne das Display, bis es senkrecht zum oberen Gehäuseteil steht und platziere es, wie auf dem Bild zu sehen, auf einen Tisch.

    • Während du das Air festhältst, entferne die übriggebliebene 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schraube von der unteren Displayklammer.

    During reassembly, once the two screws are in the left and right hinges, close the laptop and flip it over so that the display is down on the table. Run your fingers along the edge of the laptop where the display meets the lower assembly. If it is not flush, loosen the two screws in the hinges slightly and adjust, then retighten.

    Ethan Cross - Antwort

    • Bevor du die letzte Displayschraube entfernst, achte darauf, dass du das Display und den oberen Gehäuseteil mit deiner einen Hand stabil festhältst. Andernfalls können Komponenten auf den Tisch fallen und potenziell großen Schaden verursachen.

    • Entferne die letzte 4,9 mm T8 Torx Schraube, mit der das Display am oberen Gehäuseteil befestigt ist.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schiebe den oberen Gehäuseteil leicht in Richtung der Display Einheit und drehe es dann weg von der Vorderseite der Display Einheit.

    • Sobald die beiden Displayscharniere es erlauben, entferne das Display und lege es beiseite.

    Kommentar hinzufügen


81 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:


Diese Übersetzer helfen uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Beginne zu übersetzen ›

Angehängte Dateien

Sure would be nice if you could either add to the guide or have a new guide that continued the process and actually disassembled the screen assembly. It is no more difficult to take apart the display than it is to take apart an iPad.

jonlobb86 - Antwort

Thanks a ton for this guide! I got my MBAir back in working order in about an hour. The only weird thing I noticed was my MBAir battery unexpectedly registering at 0% upon re-seating. But it's charging so I suppose all's well that ends well.

jasontomczak - Antwort

This guide is way more than needed for the display replacement. Until it gets edited down, all you need to do is steps 1-3, 12, 22-24, 28, 31-35 from the "upper case replacement" guide (which is apparently what this guide is right now, instead of a display replacement guide as it is labeled).

brentp - Antwort

This is a really great comment! Thanks, you've saved me lots of time!

Charles -

Thank you! Valuable comment!

pzhivulin -

That’s not entirely correct. If you skip the motherboard lifting steps, you’ll have to cut the plastic strips that keep the AirPort/BT cables in place, before you can deroute them (at least in my Mid-2011 Air). To deroute the cables you’ll also have to remove at least one motherboard screw, in order to slightly lift the area of the MoBo under which the AP/BT cables run.

Emanuele Fiorillo -

I removed the display assembly even without removing the fan or the Logic Board. I don't see why it's necessary =)

Marhowl - Antwort

I just replaced my display. While some may complain about the details, I found it extremely helpful. It took my novice hands much longer than advertised, but I suspect my next time around, I will be able to do this in half the time. Thank you iFixit!!

macman2 - Antwort

The screw mat is missing some screws: the battery screws are not correctly identified on it. Other than that, excellent guide with very clear instructions and warnings. The whole process of replacing the display assembly took about 45 minutes, working carefully.

panaman - Antwort

It's not needed to remove any components besides disconnecting the battery and cables that connect to this screen. There are way too many unneeded steps here. Look at this guy replace the assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB3QGsp5...

Mike - Antwort

Hi! Thanks for the guide.

I was wondering if I can use the monitor of the MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012 to replace the monitor of my MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011.

Many thanks in advance.


k4noooooooooo - Antwort

2010-2012 compatible. 2013-present cables too long although screen will work.

RJ Smith -

very clean, sexy handzz :)

Aleksander - Antwort

This is the right guide for LCD replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3lhuy3s...

pzhivulin - Antwort

I have just done this, and all you need to do is take the display off, not remove the logic board. I did remove the fan for access, but I am not even sure that you need to do that. Very easy and straight toward job, only fiddly bit is reconnecting the two antennae connectors, but this is no different with the logic board in or out

chris haines - Antwort

I have a broken screen. Should I expect just to pay for a screen replacement and not the display assembly to get the screen happy?

Please confirm if I could use a screen from a mid-2012 MacBook Air to use on my mid-2011 MacBook Air. Thank you.

downdog89 - Antwort

we repair mac book in pune, india. DNA Computers..http://www.dnacomputers.in

DNA Computers - Antwort

Thanks for the write up. It was perfect to help change the display for 2011 13 inch macbook air

couple of connectors for antenna was bit tedious to reconnect. Rest isnt that difficult

g pb - Antwort

Great instructions. Used the iFixit Classic Pro Tech Toolkit, which has all the necessary tools (and then some). Thank you!

wednai - Antwort

I don’t need to replace my display, but I would like to adjust / tighten its hinge– it got rather lose and shaky over the years. Is this possible without disassembling it all? Anybody got experience?

Marco Binder - Antwort

Kommentar hinzufügen

Statistik anzeigen:

Letzte 24 Stunden: 21

Letzte 7 Tage: 192

Letzte 30 Tage: 738

Insgesamt: 101,186