Zum Hauptinhalt wechseln

MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement

Was du brauchst

  1. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, Hinteres Gehäuse: Schritt 1, Bild 1 von 1
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    Kaufen
    • Bevor du anfängst, fahre dein MacBook herunter. Schließe das Display und lege dein MacBook mit der Unterseite nach oben auf eine weiche Unterlage.

    • Benutze einen P5 Pentalobe-Schraubendreher, um folgende zehn Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 9 mm Schrauben

    • Acht 2,6 mm Schrauben

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Antwort

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Antwort

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Antwort

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Antwort

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Antwort

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Antwort

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Antwort

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Antwort

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Antwort

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Antwort

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Antwort

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Antwort

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Antwort

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Antwort

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Antwort

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Antwort

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Antwort

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Antwort

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Antwort

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Antwort

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Antwort

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Antwort

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Antwort

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Antwort

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Antwort

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Antwort

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Antwort

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert - Antwort

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen - Antwort

    On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.


    Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.

    Rich Garella - Antwort

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.

    shrhh - Antwort

  2. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 2, Bild 1 von 1
    • Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.

    • Entferne das hintere Gehäuse und lege es beiseite.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Antwort

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Antwort

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Antwort

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke - Antwort

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Antwort

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Antwort

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus - Antwort

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson - Antwort

  3. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, Akkustecker: Schritt 3, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, Akkustecker: Schritt 3, Bild 2 von 2
    • Um sicherzustellen, dass kein Strom fließt und sich das MacBook nicht einschaltet während du arbeitest, ist es empfehlenswert, den Akku abzutrennen.

    • Ziehe die durchsichtige Kunststofflasche, die am Akkustecker angebracht ist, parallel zur Oberfläche der Leiterplatte in Richtung Vorderkante des Air.

    • Ziehe den Stecker beim Trennen nicht nach oben, du riskierst sonst eine Beschädigung des Anschlusses.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Antwort

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Antwort

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - Antwort

    After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.

    The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)

    It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.

    AnnoniMoose - Antwort

    There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.

    rmccord23 -

    What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?

    Carla Tisdale - Antwort

    Yep, exactly the issue that I have

    Martin Adams -

    Where can i buy the battery connector?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Antwort

    Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Antwort

    Connector socket came off, can I just glue it into place?

    Lisa Mac - Antwort

  4. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, I/O Blendenkabel: Schritt 4, Bild 1 von 1
    • Heble den Stecker des I/O Blendenkabels mit einem Spudger aus seiner Fassung auf dem I/O Board,

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Antwort

  5. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 5, Bild 1 von 1
    • Löse das I/O Blendenkabel vorsichtig von dem Kleber ab, mit dem es oben auf dem Lüfter angebracht ist.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass dieses Kabel in der richtigen Richtung eingesetzt wird. Es lässt sich auch in entgegengesetzter Richtung einbauen, dann bootet der Laptop allerdings nicht mehr.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - Antwort

    Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

    Halston Halston - Antwort

    I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

    Edward Mills - Antwort

    I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!

    Alexae Visel - Antwort

    20.00000.000$

    Dewi Oasis - Antwort

  6. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 6, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 6, Bild 2 von 2
    • Der folgende Anschluss hat eine besonders tiefgelegte Fassung. Sei vorsichtig, wenn du ihn ablöst.

    • Während du vorsichtig das I/O Blendenkabel nach oben in Richtung seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board ziehst, heble mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers abwechselnd auf beiden Seiten des Anschlusses, um ihn nach und nach aus seiner Fassung zu lösen.

    • Entferne das I/O Blendenkabel.

    pour le remontage

    de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )

    matthiasf40 - Antwort

    A client was careless and used a fingernail to pry up the cable in one pull. It pulled the socket right off the logic board.

    w98fxr - Antwort

  7. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, Lüfter: Schritt 7, Bild 1 von 1
    • Klappe mit der Spudgerspitze vorsichtig die Halteklappe auf dem ZIF-Sockel des Lüftungskabels hoch.

    • Stelle sicher, dass du an der schwenkbaren Halteklappe hebelst und nicht an der Fassung selbst.

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Antwort

    My retaining flap broke instantly when lifting up with the spudger. Is that normal or possible to fix?

    Cameron Lawrence - Antwort

    Similar problem, but with the microphone flap. Did you manage to fix it or get it back in?

    Edwin -

    I've performed many repairs on 13" MacBook Airs ('MBA's), including two heat sink compound 're-dos' just today (on a 2014 13" and a 2015 13").

    It is not necessary to remove the I/O Board to take out the heatsink. And I've done it both ways - its way easier if you leave the I/O board in place. Here's why: removing the I/O board requires dis -and re-connecting two extremely delicate connectors as well as several cables that are really tricky to get back in place, all critical connections. If you aren't experienced with this kind of work, its taxing.

    Instead, once you remove the flat I/O cable, remove the 3 screws holding in the fan and the two hinge screws securing the antenna cable guide. Now the screw securing the tip of the 'radiator' end of the heat sink will be pretty easy to access. The detached fan can moved (and you don't need /want to move it much!) to disengage the rubber shroud where it goes under the fan and gently guide the 'radiator' out.

    clinton - Antwort

  8. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 8, Bild 1 von 1
    • Löse die Gummidichtung vom Kleber oben auf dem Lüfter.

    In my case the adhesive had already come undone through normal use.

    Tito Jankowski - Antwort

    lol same thing for me.

    h_man08 - Antwort

  9. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 9, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen den Lüfter an der oberen Schale befestigt ist:

    • Eine 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 2,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube mit einem kurzen Kopf.

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - Antwort

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Antwort

  10. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 10, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 10, Bild 2 von 2
    • Hebe den Lüfter von der I/O Board Seite her an und entferne ihn vom oberen Gehäuse.

    • Das Entfernen des Lüfters bewirkt die Trennung des Lüfter-Flachbandkabels. Passe auf, dass du nirgendwo hängenbleibst.

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - Antwort

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Antwort

    If you are careful with the ribbon cable, there is no need to remove it, the fan will swing out of the way enough. I applied a small amount of sticky tape over the connector to keep it in place, just in case!

    Damian Holland - Antwort

  11. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, I/O Board: Schritt 11, Bild 1 von 1
    • Trenne die I/O Karte, indem du das Netzkabel aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board entfernst.

    • Ziehe das Kabel parallel zu der Oberfläche des Logic Boards in Richtung der rechten Kante des Airs.

    It requires a somewhat concerning amount of force. I mean, be careful, but I pulled just slightly more than I was comfortable with (for the first time)

    Elijah Kennedy - Antwort

  12. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 12, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 12, Bild 2 von 2
    • Heble mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Kabelstecker des linken Lautsprechers nach oben und aus der Fassung auf dem I/O Board heraus.

    • Setze mit dem Hebeln unter den Kabel an.

    Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

    maccentric - Antwort

  13. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 13, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 13, Bild 2 von 2
    • Klappe den Halteclip des ZIF Sockels des Mikrofonflachbandkabels vorsichtig mit der Spudgerspitze nach oben.

    • Achte darauf, den Haltekclip umzuklappen und nicht den Sockel selbst.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Antwort

    Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

    Reynold Gonsalves - Antwort

    I managed to get the little flap out when trying to push it back in. Now I can’t get the microphone to work…

    Edwin - Antwort

    I removed it And I can’t get it to stay connected now that I am putting it back together? How does it stick to the gold part???

    jelainec1 - Antwort

    This was an extremely sensitive part to remove. The sticky bit didn’t seem to want to let go, and there isn’t really anywhere to ‘grab’ the cable from the ZIF socket. Ended up using the sticky ‘cover’ portion. Just be carefully wiggling and cajoling the cable free. (2013 model)

    Thomas Keats - Antwort

  14. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 14, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die einzelne 3,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube, die das I/O Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Antwort

    I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Antwort

    This comment was extremely helpful as the connection on the cable end is difficult to see. The tab is for pulling the connector into place.

    jheller105 -

  15. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 15, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 15, Bild 2 von 2
    • Hole das Kamerakabel vorsichtig aus der Einbuchtung auf dem I/O Board und lege es mithilfe eines Spudgers so hin, dass es nicht im Weg ist.

  16. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 16, Bild 1 von 1
    • Hebe das I/O Board vorsichtig von der Ecke, die am nahesten am Logic Board ist, her an und entferne sie vom oberen Gehäuseteil.

    • Beim Entfernen des I/O Boards wird auch das Mikrofonflachbandkabel getrennt. Achte darauf, dass es sich nicht verhakt.

    I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

    Emilio - Antwort

    THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

    samdaman91 -

    OAT YEAH! Followed this guide to replace my Macbook Air 2014 I/O board step-by-step (thx Jeff Suovanen and contributors) with no probs…workie workie now! FYI it had stopped charging…I tried a new charger, new battery, and finally this I/O board…

    Just take your time and make sure you have the torx screw + adapter bits and spudger as they do not come with the I/O board (I had them leftover from a previous iFixit battery swap).

    Kent O - Antwort

    When replacing the I/O board, be careful to gently lift the microphone ribbon cable out of the way. If you forget, you’ll have to remove the I/O board to get at it again…

    VikingShips - Antwort

  17. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, Akku: Schritt 17, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die folgenden fünf Schrauben, mit denen der Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Drei 6,3 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 2,4 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

  18. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 18, Bild 1 von 1
    • Vermeide beim Umgang mit dem Akku die vier Lithium-Polymer-Zellen einzudrücken oder zu berühren.

    • Hebe den Akku von der Logic Board-Seite her an und entferne sie aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

  19. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board Einheit: Schritt 19, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board Einheit: Schritt 19, Bild 2 von 2
    • Fasse die Zuglasche aus Plastik, die an der Sicherung des Displaydatenkabels angebracht ist, und drehe sie zur Oberseite des Computers.

  20. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 20, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 20, Bild 2 von 2
    • Ziehe den Stecker des Displaykabels gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus.

    • Achte darauf, dass du den Stecker parallel zum Logic Board ziehst, ziehe ihn nicht gerade nach oben weg vom Anschluss.

  21. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 21, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 21, Bild 2 von 2
    • Heble beide Antennenkabelstecker mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne sie aus ihren Anschlüssen auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.

    One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me

    Omar Lopez - Antwort

    You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.

    Jay Quilty - Antwort

    I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.

    Jean-Pierre Bazinet - Antwort

    If the process is taken to replace the top case, you can leave the AirPort card hanging from the antenna wires. Only remove the card’s retaining screw and slide the card to the right (direction of the antenna connectors) to separate it from the main board.

    Yishai Sered - Antwort

  22. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 22, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 22, Bild 2 von 2
    • Löse den Stecker des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze.

    • Drücke abwechselnd auf beiden Seiten des Steckers, um ihn so vorsichtig"herauswandern" zu lassen.

    • Ziehe das Kamerakabel parallel zur Oberfläche der I/O Karte in Richtung der Vorderkante des Air, um es so aus seinem Anschluss zu lösen.

    • Ziehe das Kabel beim Ablösen nicht nach oben, der Anschluss kann sonst aus dem Logic Board herausbrechen.

    You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!

    Stuzzington Botulism - Antwort

    Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.

    Stuzzington Botulism - Antwort

    On getting it on — i feel it's implied by the word "push” you can walk it out with the spudger. I couldn't wanage that, and instead walked it out by taking the cord between my index and thumb and walking it out by pulling it to the right and then the left repeatedly in a

    Elijah Kennedy - Antwort

  23. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 23, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 23, Bild 2 von 2
    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Anschluss des Trackpad-Flachbandkabels mit der Spudgerspitze oder einem Fingernagel nach oben.

    • Achte darauf, an dem scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel zu hebeln und nicht am Anschluss selbst.

    • Ziehe das Trackpad-Flachbandkabel gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus in Richtung der vorderen Kante des Gerätes.

  24. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 24, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 24, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 24, Bild 3 von 3
    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel des Flachbandkabel des ZIF Anschluss der Tastaturhintergrundbeleuchtung mit der Spudgerspitze nach oben.

    • Achte darauf, an dem scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel zu hebeln und nicht am Anschluss selbst..

    • Verwende den Spudger, um das Kabel vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss herauszuholen.

    Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?

    Jo (MemePasGame) - Antwort

    Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.

    maccentric -

  25. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 25, Bild 1 von 1
    • Heble den Kabelstecker des rechten Lautsprechers mit einem Spudger nach oben und entferne ihn von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Setze mit dem Hebeln unterhalb der Kabel an.

    What is this cables for?

    great.ryankim - Antwort

    It’s a speaker cable

    maccentric -

    This is the one that gave me the hardest time!!! It does pop up and out tho.

    Edward Mills - Antwort

  26. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 26, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die sechs 6,3 mm Torx T5 Schrauben, welche das Logic Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

    • An manchen Modellen findest du auch 4,1 mm Torx T5 Schrauben.

    When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

    First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

    Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

    Rany - Antwort

    Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

    Fox MacLeod - Antwort

    I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

    Corvallis Computer - Antwort

    In the model I was working on, the 6th screw (in the middle) was hiding under the Samsung RAM module. Simply remove the one T5 screw holding it in, slide the RAM module out, and the 6th screw will be exposed.

    Tim - Antwort

    “Samsung RAM module”… do you mean the SSD? That stick of NVRAM is totally your hard drive.

    FeRD - Antwort

    Exactly, he means SSD (storage) the RAM (memory) is soldered to this 820-00165 logic board. Also on this model the 2015 MBA there is no logic board retaining screw under the SSD

    Peter Newman -

  27. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 27, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die beiden inneren 4,9 mm Torx T8 Schrauben, welche die Halterung des Antennenkabels und den linken Scharnierverschluss am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

    This is the same screws as step 17.

    Joseph Lee - Antwort

    In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

    adlerpe - Antwort

    Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)

    Sam Goldheart - Antwort

    In my computer these screws were the same size as the other side’s hinge screws. All 6 are the same size.

    Yishai Sered - Antwort

  28. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 28, Bild 1 von 1
    • Schiebe die Halterung des Antennenkabels etwas zur Seite und entferne die 3 mm Torx T5 Schraube, welche das Ende des Kühlkörpers am oberen Gehäuse befestigt.

    This step is not needed

    mayer - Antwort

    It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.

    Richard Garella - Antwort

    This step is only needed if you’re replacing the ENTIRE top case. Simply swapping out the trackpad unit does not make this step necessary. This entire tutorial assumes you’re replacing the entire top case which is an expensive mistake if you’re simply replacing the trackpad and/or keyboard. The keyboard is removable as well despite those many tiny rivets. Save money and time by not replacing the entire top case for a bad trackpad and/or keyboard. I needed to accomplish this step because I also removed and replaced the keyboard.

    airshack - Antwort

    NOTE: There is a sort of clamp/washer attached to this screw that I didn’t know about until I flipped the laptop up on its side and it fell onto the desk. Also: you need to reset it *before* the motherboard

    Edward Mills - Antwort

    In my computer this screw was not there, nor was a related washer. I got it used so perhaps someone has already been there and did not replace the screw.

    Also, the photo here shows how this end of the fan gasket is placed

    .

    Yishai Sered - Antwort

  29. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 29, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 29, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 29, Bild 3 von 3
    • Schiebe das flache Ende des Spudgers unter den rechten Lautsprecher vom Ende nahe des Scharniers zur Vorderkante hin, um so den Kleber zu lösen.

    • Entferne den rechten Lautsprecher vom oberen Gehäuse.

    You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.

    Alexander Zub - Antwort

    I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.

    Richard Garella - Antwort

    If your keyboard and/or trackpad need replacing you do not have to replace the entire top case.

    airshack - Antwort

    If it is difficult to remove the speakers you can use Isopropyl Alcohol to loosen the adhesive holding the speakers in place. Make sure to keep the Isopropyl Alcohol away from the speaker itself.

    BluRepairs - Antwort

  30. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 30, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 30, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne vorsichtig die Logic Board Einheit vom oberen Gehäuse, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.

    • Beachte beim Zusammenbau:

    • Halte lose Kabel vom Board entfernt, damit sie nicht darunter eingeklemmt werden.

    • Achte darauf, dass die Antennenkabel in ihre entsprechenden Einkerbungen auf dem Logic Board eingesetzt sind, so wie im zweiten Bild gezeigt.

    It’s probably worth mentioning here that during reassembly you want to tuck the rubber gasket under the extension of the heat sink that the fan slots into.

    David Bonner - Antwort

  31. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: Schritt 31, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die einzelne 2,85 mm Torx T5 Schraube, welche die SSD am Logic Board befestigt.

  32. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 32, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 32, Bild 2 von 2
    • Um Schäden am Anschluss der SSD zu vermeiden, solltest du ihr Ende nicht zu hoch heben.

    • Ziehe das Laufwerk aus seinem Anschluss und entferne es vom Logic Board.

    • Achte beim Einbau der SSD darauf, dass sie richtig sitzt, bevor du die Halteschraube wieder eindrehst.

  33. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 33, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm Torx T5 Schraube, welche die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte am Logic Board befestigt.

  34. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 34, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 34, Bild 2 von 2
    • Um Schäden an ihrem Anschluss zu vermeiden, solltest du das Ende der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte nicht zu hoch heben.

    • Hebe das freie Ende der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte etwas an und ziehe sie aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Entferne die AirPort/Bluetooth Karte vom Logic Board.

  35. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 35, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die vier 2,5 mm Torx T5 Schrauben, welche den Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigen.

  36. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 36, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 36, Bild 2 von 2
    • Wenn der Kühlkörper immer noch am Logic Board festklebt, obwohl die vier Schrauben entfernt sind, dann kannst du ihn vorsichtig mit einem Spudger von den Kontaktflächen der GPU und CPU ablösen.

    • Entferne den Kühlkörper vom Logic Board.

    • Beim Zusammenbau musst du eine neue Schicht Wärmeleitpaste auftragen. Wenn du das zum ersten Mal machst, hilft dir unsere Anleitung dabei.

  37. MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 37, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 37, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Air 13" Mitte 2013 Logic Board Replacement: Schritt 37, Bild 3 von 3
    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass die Gummidichtung des Kühlkörpers richtig eingesetzt ist. Die Noppe an der Dichtung muss in den Einschnitt im Logic Board nahe den Kühlrippen passen.

    • Das Ende der Dichtung sollte in den Einschnitt im Kühlkörper passen, es sollte nicht unter der Lasche am Kühlkörper abschließen, die auf dem Logic Board aufliegt.

    • Achte darauf, dass die Antennenkabel richtig in ihre Einbuchtungen auf dem Logic Board eingesetzt sind, so wie im letzten Bild zu sehen.

    This step is REALLY helpful. I skimmed over it when disassembling and then struggled a bit trying to get the rubber gasket aligned just right.

    The middle photo shows what I mean, it's exactly what I needed.

    Daniel Cassel - Antwort

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

73 weitere Nutzer:innen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:

en de

100%

Diese Übersetzer:innen helfen uns, die Welt zu reparieren! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Hier starten ›

18 Kommentare

Step 28 there is a T5 screw at the end of the heat sink which needs to be undone before the logic board can be removed this screw is hidden under the two ariel leads

Joe - Antwort

great job! thanks a lot

Mike Mantouvalos - Antwort

thank you for making it so easy. Great job, you deserve 5 stars *****

monikamansell - Antwort

Is it possible to swap Macbook air's (2013) logic board for newer model's logic board? (let's say for 2015 macbook air's logic board).

Frykauf Lakost - Antwort

Is it possible to swap Macbook air's (2013) logic board for newer model's logic board? (let's say for 2015 macbook air's logic board).???

sdabouras - Antwort

Very clear and helpful, thank you.

If I did it again I would be more careful keeping the screws in separate containers as I took them out. Many of them look similar and it took some time to work out which went where.

petereid - Antwort

With this guide, I successfully replaced my dead board with a second hand one that I bought from ebay.

It took around 2:30 hours with a lot of external distraction. So basically it takes 2 hours to replace the board.

Thank for this beautiful guide.

Aytek Dorken - Antwort

Hay 2013 13 IN with i5 1.3 ghz what if rather then getting it to apple i get different logic board ? With i7 1.8 ghz on same accessories whay do u guys think?

Aman - Antwort

Is processors replaceable??

Aman - Antwort

This guide was essential in repalcing the logic board i’d bought off ifixit. Great, a new lease of life for my macbook air. Phew …

Markus - Antwort

Another note as a follow up: After the replacement all seemed fine, though i noticed start up was really slow and it generally didn’t feel as responsive as before the swap. Getting worried about the replacement board (the ZIF connection of the trackpad was missing on the ‘new’ board) i ended up resetting the NVRAM. This miraculously solved the problem for me.

And as the new board has a different serial number, this should be updated for iCloud…i guess, as this is the serial that appears in ‘About This Mac’.

Markus - Antwort

Using this guide I successfully replaced the logic board in a Mid-2013 13” MBA. It had been running Yosemite 10.10.5 until my grandson dropped it in his bathtub (don’t ask). After the fix I updated the MacOS to High Sierra 10.13.6. I ran the Apple hardware diagnostic (pressed “D” at startup) which reported “No issues found.”

I’m still a bit nervous about the tiny ribbon cables, which don’t really seem all that well secured. But I guess everything is working. Also, the Airport/Bluetooth module on the replacement logic board would not allow one of the two antenna connectors to engage fully, so I swapped it with the original, which did work.

I really hate trackpads, but I guess people get used to them. I much prefer my Kensington trackball (“Expert Mouse”).

Bill Strohm - Antwort

Revived my MacBook Air! Now with 480 Gb SSD.

Good photos, great explanations. Well done!

Everything worked well. I did not add glue when replacing the right speaker, nor under the rubber that goes over the fan. What kind should we use? Thin double sided tape?

Olivier - Antwort

Bonjour, très bon tuto,

Je vous fais part de mon expérience. Au redémarrage j’ai eu plusieurs soucis : ventilateur qui tourne sans arrêt au maximum accompagné d’une très forte sollicitation du microprocesseur - pas de clavier ni de trackpad.

Après avoir longtemps cherché sur les forum sans aucun résultat je me suis décidé à rouvrir la machine. J’ai remis de la pâte thermique en abondance et j’ai débranché et rebranché les nappes du clavier et du trackpad.

Après ça tout refonctionne normalement.

Jean-Marc MAGNIER - Antwort

Anyone has upgraded their 2013 MacBook Air 13” with a MacBook Air 2017 i7 Logic Board?

Alex Rettig - Antwort

Done myself, now the Mid-2013 A1466 runs with an Early-2015 Intel i7 2.2GHz, 8GB RAM logic board. It is Monterey compatible, where 2013 was not.

Alex Rettig -

That wonderful and I appreciate it. So I need to know the total amount for the screw drivers in the MackBook.

Maribwebwe Taotii - Antwort

Kommentar hinzufügen

Seitenaufrufe:

Letzte 24 Stunden: 15

Letzte 7 Tage: 66

Letzte 30 Tage: 314

Insgesamt: 108,366