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MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen

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  1. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Auto Boot deaktivieren: Schritt 1, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Auto Boot deaktivieren: Schritt 1, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Auto Boot deaktivieren: Schritt 1, Bild 3 von 3
    • Zuallererst musst du die automatische Startfunktion (Auto Boot) deines Macs deaktivieren. Auto Boot schaltet deinen Mac ein, wenn du ihn aufklappst, was versehentlich beim Auseinanderbau passieren kann. Benutze diese Anleitung oder befolge die anschließende Kurzversion zum Deaktivieren von Auto Boot. Dieser Befehl funktioniert eventuell nicht auf allen Macs.

    • Schalte deinen Mac ein und starte Terminal.

    • Kopiere den folgenden Befehl und füge ihn im Terminal ein (oder tippe ihn exakt so ein):

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Drücke die Eingabetaste [return]. Wenn du dazu aufgefordert wirst, gib dein Administratorpasswort ein und drücke erneut [return]. Hinweis: die Return-Taste kann auch mit ⏎ oder "enter" gekennzeichnet sein.

    • Nun kannst du deinen Mac sicher herunterfahren und das untere Gehäuse öffnen, ohne dass er sich versehentlich einschaltet.

    • Nachdem deine Reparatur zu Ende ist und dein Gerät wieder erfolgreich zusammengebaut ist, musst du Auto Boot mit folgendem Befehl wieder aktivieren:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF - Antwort

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Antwort

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Antwort

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Antwort

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Antwort

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Antwort

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Antwort

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Antwort

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Antwort

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Antwort

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Antwort

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Antwort

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Antwort

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Antwort

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Antwort

    I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?

    peter sussex -

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Antwort

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Antwort

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Antwort

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Antwort

    Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

    maël muzelet - Antwort

    Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

    Claire Miesch -

    Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

    Tom Markham - Antwort

    If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

    arichard2401 - Antwort

    For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.

    Nicholas R Licato - Antwort

    Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
    I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).

    Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.

    Cédric Bontems - Antwort

    After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.

    Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.

    No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.

    Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.

    webrockers - Antwort

    I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.

    I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.

    webrockers -

  2. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Entferne die Pentalobe Schrauben: Schritt 2, Bild 1 von 1
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    Kaufen
    • Bevor du weitermachst, ziehe den Stecker und fahre dein MacBook herunter. Schließe das Display und lege das Gerät mit der Oberseite nach unten auf eine weiche Oberfläche.

    • Entferne die sechs Schrauben, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil befestigt ist, Benutze dazu einen Pentalobe P5 Schraubendreher:

    • Zwei 6,2 mm Schrauben

    • Vier 3,4 mm Schrauben

    • Behalte während der gesamten Reparatur den Überblick über jede einzelne Schraube und achte darauf, dass sie genau dorthin zurückgesetzt werden, wo sie vorher waren, um Schäden an deinem Gerät zu vermeiden.

    Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas

    Olivier Cecillon - Antwort

    Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !

    c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .

    l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon

    Vincent Morault - Antwort

    Bonjour Vincent,

    Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Claire Miesch -

    Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS

    Gilles Vigeral - Antwort

    Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….

    Gilles Vigeral - Antwort

    Nothing beats a properly grounded ESD workstation, and a grounded wrist strap.

    Robin Ray - Antwort

  3. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Öffne einen Spalt mit einem Saugheber: Schritt 3, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Öffne einen Spalt mit einem Saugheber: Schritt 3, Bild 2 von 2
    • Setze einen Saugheber vorne in der Mitte auf das Gehäuseunterteil des MacBook Pro.

    • Hebe den Saugheber an, um den Rahmen und das untere Gehäuse leicht voneinander zu lösen.

  4. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Löse die Clips: Schritt 4, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Löse die Clips: Schritt 4, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Löse die Clips: Schritt 4, Bild 3 von 3
    • Setze die Ecke eines Plektrums in den Spalt zwischen dem unteren Gehäuse und dem Rahmen ein.

    • Schiebe das Plektrum um die nächstgelegene Ecke und die Gehäuseseite bis zur Hälfte nach oben.

    • Dadurch wird die erste der versteckten Clips gelöst, mit denen das untere Gehäuse am Rahmen befestigt ist. Du solltest das Lösen des Clips hören und spüren können.

    The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.

    dkraemer2 - Antwort

  5. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen: Schritt 5, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen: Schritt 5, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen: Schritt 5, Bild 3 von 3
    • Wiederhole den vorherigen Schritt auf der anderen Seite: Schiebe dein Plektrum unter das untere Gehäuse und an der Seite nach oben, um den zweiten Clip zu lösen.

  6. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen: Schritt 6, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen: Schritt 6, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen: Schritt 6, Bild 3 von 3
    • Setze dein Plektrum erneut unter die Vorderkante des unteren Gehäuses, nahe bei einem der mittleren Schraubenlöcher.

    • Verdrehe das Plektrum kräftig, um den dritten Clip zu lösen, mit den das Gehäuseunterteil am Rahmen befestigt ist.

    • Wiederhole diese Vorgehensweise bei dem anderen mittleren Schraubenloch, um den vierten Clip zu lösen.

    Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.

    Troy Reimche - Antwort

  7. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen: Schritt 7, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen: Schritt 7, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen: Schritt 7, Bild 3 von 3
    • Ziehe das Gehäuseunterteil kräftig nach vorne (weg von dem Bereich mit den Scharnieren), um die letzten Clips zu lösen, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil befestigt ist.

    • Ziehe erst an der einen Ecke, dann an der anderen.

    • Ziehe zur Seite, nicht nach oben.

    • Das kann ganz schön viel Kraft benötigen.

    On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.

    Cool_Breeze - Antwort

  8. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil: Schritt 8, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil: Schritt 8, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Touch Bar) Gehäuseunterteil austauschen, Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil: Schritt 8, Bild 3 von 3
    • Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.

    • Wenn du das Gehäuseunterteil wieder anschrauben willst:

    • Positionere es entlang der Clips am Displayscharnier. Drücke es herunter und schiebe es Richtung Scharnier. Es sollte fest sein, wenn die Clips einrasten.

    • Wenn diese Clips eingerastet sind und das Gehäuseunterteil gerade auf dem Laptop liegt, drücke kräftig auf das Unterteil, damit die vier versteckten Clips einrasten können. Du solltest es hören und fühlen können, wenn sie einrasten.

Abschluss

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3 Kommentare

So how does one re-affix the clips when it’s time to replace the bottom case?

jseliger - Antwort

Yeah, Ifixit is SOOOOO great except for explaining reassembly steps that don’t just involve ‘reverse order’ like this %#*@ bottom case. I did a whole display (yay me!) and am now stumped as to the last step of reassembly. If you just put it back on and put the screws back in, there’s an increasing gap from the rear 2 screws to where the display hinge begins (that sits flush before taking it off). There seems to be no ‘popping’ it in place and the pegs on the underside of the cover are in the middle.

debmocracy - Antwort

@jseliger You’re both right, that was an oversight! It really is pretty much reverse of disassembly, but it can take a little practice. See the final step for some new reassembly tips. Hope this helps!

Jeff Suovanen -

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