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Werkzeug & Ersatzteile

Einleitung

Stelle die Wi-Fi Verbindung durch den Austausch der AirPort Karte wieder her.

  1. Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:
    • Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:

    • Sieben 3 mm Schrauben.

    • Drei 13,5 mm Schrauben.

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - Antwort

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

    http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...

    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - Antwort

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - Antwort

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - Antwort

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - Antwort

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

    Eric Sorenson - Antwort

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - Antwort

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - Antwort

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - Antwort

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:

    http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - Antwort

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - Antwort

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - Antwort

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - Antwort

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - Antwort

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - Antwort

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - Antwort

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - Antwort

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - Antwort

    j’ai remarqué que le 4 vis philips courtes sur le bord avant ont une courte entretoise

    celles des cotés n’en ont pas et sont courtes

    la dernière sur le bord qui comporte les 3 longues, est un poil plus longue

    si l’on ne fait pas attention, les vis des cotés ne peuvent pas se visser à fond et dépassent un peu

    parfait pour le reste ! Merci

    Vincent Morault - Antwort

  2. Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.
    • Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - Antwort

  3. Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.
    • Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.

    • Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - Antwort

    Zitat von gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - Antwort

    Zitat von gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - Antwort

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - Antwort

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - Antwort

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - Antwort

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

    Berlugana

    bduault - Antwort

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - Antwort

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).

    .

    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)

    .

    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - Antwort

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - Antwort

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - Antwort

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - Antwort

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - Antwort

  4. Heble den Stecker vom Subwoofer/rechten Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board. Sei dabei vorsichtig und hebele unter dem Stecker, so wie gezeigt, und nicht unter dem Sockel selbst. Du könntest sonst versehentlich den Sockel vom Logic Board abhebeln. Sei dabei vorsichtig und hebele unter dem Stecker, so wie gezeigt, und nicht unter dem Sockel selbst. Du könntest sonst versehentlich den Sockel vom Logic Board abhebeln.
    • Heble den Stecker vom Subwoofer/rechten Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Sei dabei vorsichtig und hebele unter dem Stecker, so wie gezeigt, und nicht unter dem Sockel selbst. Du könntest sonst versehentlich den Sockel vom Logic Board abhebeln.

    You must first separate the little foam pad to see better how to pry the cable

    connector up. You must be

    careful not to root up also its socket

    stuck on the logic board

    ramonananos - Antwort

    My subwoofer/right speaker connection seemed to be soldered on the main board. Of course, I pried this off..realizing right after that there was no reconnecting it (&^$%^@!). There's really no reason to even disconnect this wire on the MacBook pro 13 mid-2009

    Glad this is my "project" Mac

    srlincoln - Antwort

    Please Be Carefully With This Step, Because I Had To Resolder It Back To The Logic Board. But There Is A Black Foam Piece Over The Cable You Have To Pry Up, Lift The Foam Piece And Then Try To CAREFULLY Pry Cable Connector

    BWilliams842 - Antwort

    A better description would have been worth a lot....

    I accidently pried off the socket aswell... gonna have to go to the computer/robotics lab at my college to resolder it -.-

    Juliane Aschenbrenner - Antwort

    I didn't have to do step 4 for my mid-2010 13" mbp.

    jonk2015 - Antwort

    CAUTION!! Note is required here! First off step is truly unnecessary! Secondly, just don't do it!

    Edward Turkovich - Antwort

    A real closeup photo of this small piece of hard plastic that prevents the connector from falling out would be a great help. !

    Peter Mayo - Antwort

    Don't follow this step!!!! It is complete unnecessary. I just riped of the socket....

    hilbert - Antwort

    Thank you for the warning not to perform this step. It is unnecessary to unplug that connector.

    Fill IP - Antwort

    Clearly I should have read this as well, popped the socket off even being gentle.

    YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THIS STEP FOR MID 2009 MBP.

    cpt awesome - Antwort

  5. Löse das Kamerakabel, indem es gerade aus seinem Sockel herausziehst. Ziehe das Kabel über das Logic Board in Richtung des optischen Laufwerks. Ziehe es nicht nach oben, sonst wirst du den Anschluss kaputt machen.
    • Löse das Kamerakabel, indem es gerade aus seinem Sockel herausziehst.

    • Ziehe das Kabel über das Logic Board in Richtung des optischen Laufwerks. Ziehe es nicht nach oben, sonst wirst du den Anschluss kaputt machen.

    • Wenn du ein kleines Stück Plastik am Logic Board findest, das das Kamerakabel am herausrutschen hindert, löse es vorsichtig vom Logic Board. Erhitze es im Zweifel mit einem Fön oder einer Heißluftpistole, um den Kleber zu lösen. Versuche nicht, das Kabel über das Plastikstück zu ziehen.

    • Wenn du trotzdem Probleme hast, nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers und drücke abwechselnd an beiden Seiten des Anschlusses, um ihn langsam aus dem Sockel zu holen.

    Be careful to the piece of plastic that prevents camera cable failing out its socket! Do not force connector! Look at plastic before attempting to remove connector Plastic is partially covered by cdrom flat connector at right of camera cable connector

    Silvio - Antwort

    that's not only the camera but the wifi and bluetooth too. Be extremely careful!

    Jose Luis Blas - Antwort

    So I unfortunately did not find this guide when I was replacing my keyboard. I did at first force this connection, didn't know I could peel that black plastic piece off, then was able to smoothly get it in. Now my Bluetooth/Wi-Fi/web cam isn't working. I'm looking at the connection now and it looks undamaged. How do I know for certain I damaged the cord and/or socket

    Vic - Antwort

    Does anybody knows how I can change the cable+connector, and where to buy it? Thanks

    Guillermo - Antwort

    Please be VERY careful. I fixed my Macbook Pro A1278 Backlit Keyboard but lost my WiFi/Camera/Bluetooth…

    Caio Carvalho - Antwort

    This step is unnecessarily tricky. I’ve tried to make it better by adding images highlighting the plastic stopper thingy and showing a clear arrow of the direction the cable should be pulled.

    However, simply pulling the cable may not be enough to remove it. It sure wasn’t for me. I think there ought to be a close-up of the two little nubbins on the sides of the plug which one uses to wiggle it loose from the connector by gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. I didn’t add that tip because (a) it would have made the instructions longer, (b) I didn’t think to take a photo of it, and (c) using a screwdriver carelessly next to the logic board could scratch or break components on the motherboard. A guitar pick or very small spudger might work.

    hackerb9 - Antwort

    @hackerb9 Thanks for your edits and comments! I took some additional shots and tried to clean this up a little for everyone. There should be a lot less confusion now. Interestingly, neither of the two MacBook Pros used for these guides had the plastic retainer piece you folks mentioned, but I left that image in a link so everyone can still see what it looks like if needed.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for incorporating some of my edits and for taking new photos.

    Are you the one who took the original photographs? If so, you did originally have the hard plastic retainer as it was in those photos, just obscured by your thumbnail. The glue on the retainer allows it to shift a bit, so it's possible you took out the cable and knocked off the retainer without noticing it.

    Your two frame animation of pulling out the plug is helpful to show the proper direction. Given the number of people who have destroyed their MacBooks from this procedure, I think we should do even better. The instruction would be clearer if it said, “Disconnect the camera cable by sliding it horizontally out of its socket.”

    Also, if you can post a link to a picture without fingers in the shot, I will add an arrow showing the proper direction. (I would have added it to the original, but visually it would have gone through your fingers.)

    hackerb9 - Antwort

    P.s. this isn't as important, but where did you hear the tip about the hairdryer? I'd leave that out as firmly peeling it up works fine.

    hackerb9 -

    Negative, I’m not the original photographer. You’re right, I do see the retainer in some of the previous photos, although it wasn’t in any of the images for this particular step. May have been an oversight on the part of the original author! So I’m glad you caught it. I updated the verbiage as you requested. Don’t worry about adding arrows—at this point, if someone ignores both the images and the multiple warnings in the text, that’s no longer a fault with the guide. The heat/hairdryer tip is standard practice for anything that’s secured with adhesive—I hardly ever work on a MacBook of any vintage without using a heat gun at least a couple times. It may not be strictly necessary, but the result is much cleaner and it reduces the risk of accident.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Hello everyone, please tell me, next to the connector wifi, are 3 capacitors and 1 resistor (black)? I have black and brown swapped, I have one so macbook pro 2009

    silichev94 - Antwort

    I'm trying to understand your question. There's tons of little doodads everywhere. What is the issue? That the colors on your motherboard don't match the photo? If so, you needn't worry. It's normal for colors to vary.

    hackerb9 - Antwort

    https://yadi.sk/i/IvNFL6bWTsrY4g

    I'm talking about these smd, it's all capacitors or black is a resistor as it rings

    silichev94 -

    Yup, those are the thingies next to the connector in the picture. What's the problem?

    hackerb9 -

    I bought a macbook on ebay wifi Bluetooth and the camera are not working, the cable works, but it seems to me 1 of the capacitors is dead since it is ringing

    silichev94 - Antwort

  6. Fädle das Kameradatenkabel aus dem Kanal am optischen Laufwerk.
    • Fädle das Kameradatenkabel aus dem Kanal am optischen Laufwerk.

  7. Entferne folgende Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche das Kameradatenkabel und den rechten Lautsprecher an der Gehäuseoberseite befestigen: Zwei 8 mm Schrauben
    • Entferne folgende Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche das Kameradatenkabel und den rechten Lautsprecher an der Gehäuseoberseite befestigen:

    • Zwei 8 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 4 mm Schraube

    • Eine der 8 mm Schrauben wird im Erdungskontakt des Kamerakabels hängenbleiben.

    • Schiebe die Halterung des Kamerakabels unter dem Subwoofer hervor und entferne sie vom Computer.

    For my mid-2010 mbp, removing the 4mm screw is not enough as the camera cable bracket is under the black cover. I need to unscrew another screw (see the dark cover in step 6). However, the speaker (dark circle in step 6) is a strong magnet and the little screw flew onto it and crack the speaker slightly. You need to be very careful of this. The sound wasn't as clear when I turn on loud volume after that.

    jonk2015 - Antwort

    in my case the 8-mm screw was stuck. I needed to drill the head.

    Fill IP - Antwort

    Be careful when taking off the screws here. When I was taking apart the bracket, one of the screws became severely stripped (to the point where it was rounded. I had to wait to wait until my father got home so he can give me his screw extracting tools. The same can be said for the display cable bracket ( but that one wasn’t such a big deal for me since I didn’t severely strip it, a bigger screwdriver helped out for me.)

    Willie Narvaez - Antwort

  8. Fasse die Plastikzuglasche an, welche an der Sicherung des Displaydatenkabels befestigt ist, und drehe sie zur Seite des Computers mit dem Gleichstromeingang (DC-In). Ziehe den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels gerade aus seinem Sockel heraus. Achte darauf, dass du den Stecker gerade herausziehst, und nicht aus seinem Sockel nach oben.
    • Fasse die Plastikzuglasche an, welche an der Sicherung des Displaydatenkabels befestigt ist, und drehe sie zur Seite des Computers mit dem Gleichstromeingang (DC-In).

    • Ziehe den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels gerade aus seinem Sockel heraus.

    • Achte darauf, dass du den Stecker gerade herausziehst, und nicht aus seinem Sockel nach oben.

    Well, my display ended up looking like this after the repair:

    http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h366...

    As you can see, there was a light/dark banded pattern along the bottom of the screen, corresponding to the LCD's backlight. In my case it was also accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise. I swear to anything that's holy, it was not coming from the fan or the speaker, but rather the motherboard itself.

    Anyway, both these problems went away when I disconnected and reconnected the connector at this stage. I'm saying this on the off chance it helps someone else.

    Jonty Levine - Antwort

    I did what you said, disconnect and reconnect the display data cable but the problem didn't go away. Any idea how to fix this?

    jonk2015 -

    I also encountered the issue at the bottom of the screen. I can't get mine to go away. I can make it vary a bit or at least the whole display to vary by fluctuating the connection, but it just won't go away. I'm open to any other suggestions.

    I might have manhandled the bottom of my screen a bit. I didn't realize how to get the plastic u-shaped cover off, and I fudged around with it for a while before reading somewhere that it just slides down. I thought I had read that it snapped on, so I had been a little flustered on why it wouldn't snap off.

    Anyway, if anyone has suggestions I'd be all ears.

    Tim -

    It's not to clear but there is a piece of spring steel that rotates away from the main (circuit board side) of the connector....this piece sort of hugs the parameter of the screen cable locking it to the circuit board...both arms wrapped around your brother....looking closely (10x magnifier) at this cable one of the gold connections is slightly oxidized---my display arbitrarily flickers and this symptom is lessened as the temperature increases...I suspect this is the cuase of the screen flashing on/off

    brian62 - Antwort

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  10. Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels am Gehäuseoberteil befestigen: Eine 7 mm Schraube
    • Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels am Gehäuseoberteil befestigen:

    • Eine 7 mm Schraube

    • Eine 5 mm Schraube.

    • Hebe die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels aus dem Gehäuseoberteil.

  11. Entferne die beiden äußeren 6,5 mm Torx Schrauben, welche jede der beiden Displayhalterungen am Gehäuseoberteil befestigen (also vier insgesamt). Das Modell von Mitte 2009 braucht einen T6 Torx-Schraubendreher, das Modell von Mitte 2010 einen T8.
    • Entferne die beiden äußeren 6,5 mm Torx Schrauben, welche jede der beiden Displayhalterungen am Gehäuseoberteil befestigen (also vier insgesamt).

    • Das Modell von Mitte 2009 braucht einen T6 Torx-Schraubendreher, das Modell von Mitte 2010 einen T8.

    This says t use a 6.5 mm Torx driver. In the required tools list it only mentions a 6 mm Torx driver. Where can we find a 6.5 mm Torx Driver?

    Matthew Shaw - Antwort

    The 6mm vs 6.5mm is the length of the screw. It is still a T6 head (although mine was a T7 for some reason). I think the middle screw on each side is 0.5mm longer.

    Dean Landry -

    lol… turns out mine is a mid-2012 model. That accounts for the different screw head. But the 6mm vs 6.5mm still use the same driver if they’re both T6.

    Dean Landry -

    In my case, i had to use a t8 screwdriver. My tools are not from Ifixit but i’m just sayin.

    Willie Narvaez - Antwort

    Correct! The screws on the Mid-2010 are T8. As far as the length goes they were 6.16 mm, 6.13 mm, 6.11 mm and 6.07 mm (measured end to end) and the head thickness was consistent at 0.85 mm on mine, so I,m going to go out on a limb ans say they are the same size. FYI, you can’t tell by eye any difference in size.

    It would pay to check on which A1278 sub-model you were working, just to allow for sub-model differences.

    Josh - Antwort

    My tools are from ifixit, just saying, also.

    Josh - Antwort

    Hey folks, regarding the screw/driver sizes: there are separate guides for the Mid 2010 model with the T8 screws. Always use the correct guide for your model to avoid confusion, stripped screws, etc. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen - Antwort

  12. Öffne das MacBook, so dass das Display senkrecht zum  Gehäuseoberteil steht.
    • Öffne das MacBook, so dass das Display senkrecht zum Gehäuseoberteil steht.

    • Stelle das geöffnete MacBook so wie gezeigt auf den Tisch.

    • Halte das Display und das Gehäuseoberteil mit der linken Hand fest. Entferne dann die letzte 6,5 mm Schraube von der unteren Displayhalterung mit einem Torx Schraubendreher.

  13. Achte darauf, das Display und das  Gehäuseoberteil gut mit der linken Hand festzuhalten. Wenn du dabei einen Fehler machst, könnte das Display/ Gehäuseobeteil hinfallen und dabei jedes Bauteil beschädigt werden.
    • Achte darauf, das Display und das Gehäuseoberteil gut mit der linken Hand festzuhalten. Wenn du dabei einen Fehler machst, könnte das Display/ Gehäuseobeteil hinfallen und dabei jedes Bauteil beschädigt werden.

    • Entferne die letzte 6 mm Schraube mit einem Torx Schraubendreher, welche das Display noch am Gehäuseoberteil festhält.

  14. Fasse das obere Gehäuse mit der rechten Hand an und drehe es etwas in Richtung Oberkante das Displays, so dass sich die obere Displayhalterung vom Rand des  Gehäuseoberteils löst. Drehe das Display ein wenig vom  Gehäuseoberteil weg.
    • Fasse das obere Gehäuse mit der rechten Hand an und drehe es etwas in Richtung Oberkante das Displays, so dass sich die obere Displayhalterung vom Rand des Gehäuseoberteils löst.

    • Drehe das Display ein wenig vom Gehäuseoberteil weg.

  15. Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom  Gehäuseoberteil. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Klammern oder Kabel verfangen.
    • Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom Gehäuseoberteil. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Klammern oder Kabel verfangen.

    Re-assembly hint: Laying the base, keyboard down, on a table top with the hinge side over the edge about 1/2" toward you is a more stable position for re-assembly than trying to do this up on its edge. This has the added benefit of being able to reinsert the torn screws vertically.

    Pete H - Antwort

    May be in the wrong place but then please direct me. At this step, can I just take off the upper half (meaning the screen, LCD, and top housing shell in one) and simply replace it with another upper half of the same edition???

    cmackay13stmarys - Antwort

    Yes, you can. Thanks what I'm doing now. :)

    Mike Mayaka -

    @Pete H, nice tip, thanks. 8-)

    Josh - Antwort

  16. Fasse die Verschlussabdeckung wie gezeigt an an und schiebe sie zur rechten Displayseite. Sie sollte sich etwa 7 mm nach rechts bewegen lassen und dann stoppen. Zwinge sie nicht über diesen Punkt hinaus.
    • Fasse die Verschlussabdeckung wie gezeigt an an und schiebe sie zur rechten Displayseite.

    • Sie sollte sich etwa 7 mm nach rechts bewegen lassen und dann stoppen. Zwinge sie nicht über diesen Punkt hinaus.

    i've found this impossible to get back on correctly.

    i cant get the plastic to slide back that 1/4" it needs to fit properly

    Does anyone know any tricks? :(

    Ashley Berthon - Antwort

    imagine the monitor upside down and the screen facing away from you. You have to put the cover over to the right of where it goes about an inch or 2 and it will go in, then, slide it left to lock it into place

    stdonato - Antwort

    This is a great guide but it's lacking one thing - where can I get a replacement clutch? I don't have a donor machine available, can I order just the plastic piece somewhere?

    Wayne Poole - Antwort

    I was replacing a clutch cover that had cracked into a few pieces. I found the replacement didn’t slide to the left on installation. On further investigation I found the tabs from the old one were broken off inside where the cover slides. Once they were removed the install wen much better.

    I found my replacement cover on Amazon.ca in case someone needs a Canadian source.

    Dean Landry - Antwort

  17. Rüttle die Verschlussabdeckung vorsichtig auf ihrer langen Achse vor und zurück und ziehe sie dabei vom Display weg. Führe dieses auf ganzer Länge der Verschlussabdeckung durch, bis du sie aus dem Rahmen heben kannst, mit dem sie am Display befestigt ist.
    • Rüttle die Verschlussabdeckung vorsichtig auf ihrer langen Achse vor und zurück und ziehe sie dabei vom Display weg.

    • Führe dieses auf ganzer Länge der Verschlussabdeckung durch, bis du sie aus dem Rahmen heben kannst, mit dem sie am Display befestigt ist.

  18. Entferne die Verschlussabdeckung vom Display.
    • Entferne die Verschlussabdeckung vom Display.

    The flat face goes on the bottom edge of the display. The display and wifi cables must be routed below the hinges in the display, that is, closer to the bottom edge of the display.

    Robert Rossi - Antwort

    This was an easy replacement didn’t need the guide.

    Sandy - Antwort

  19. Heble die Stecker beider AirPort-Antennen mit der Spudgerspitze aus ihren Anschlüssen auf der AirPort-Karte  heraus. Passe auf, dass du die Anschlüsse nicht aus der AirPort-Karte herausbrichst.
    • Heble die Stecker beider AirPort-Antennen mit der Spudgerspitze aus ihren Anschlüssen auf der AirPort-Karte heraus.

    • Passe auf, dass du die Anschlüsse nicht aus der AirPort-Karte herausbrichst.

    a connector got separated from the wire..what now??

    undauntedmg - Antwort

  20. Entferne die einzelne 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die AirPort Karte befestigt ist,  gleich neben der AirPort Antenne.
    • Entferne die einzelne 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die AirPort Karte befestigt ist, gleich neben der AirPort Antenne.

  21. Entferne die einzelne 3,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die den Kamerakabelhalter am Display befestigt.
    • Entferne die einzelne 3,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die den Kamerakabelhalter am Display befestigt.

    this is on the other side, watch the glass of the display below

    Carl Gennheimer - Antwort

    Thank you! I thought the photo was looking at the left hand side.

    Andrew Wainwright - Antwort

  22. Lege das Display wie gezeigt hin und ziehe den schwarzen Kamerakabelhalter zur rechten Seite des Displays hin. Entferne den Kamerakabelhalter.
    • Lege das Display wie gezeigt hin und ziehe den schwarzen Kamerakabelhalter zur rechten Seite des Displays hin.

    • Entferne den Kamerakabelhalter.

    In the second picture for this step the U notches on the wifi connector are facing out when in the socket, and this is quite misleading. Putting them in like this will not work and could potentially cause some serious damage to wifi card or motherboard. Be wary of this guide, and make sure you take pictures of how things are before you touch them.

    acurns1 - Antwort

  23. Ziehe behutsam den Stecker am Kamerakabel zur rechten Seite des Displays hin aus seinem Anschluss auf der AirPort Karte heraus.
    • Ziehe behutsam den Stecker am Kamerakabel zur rechten Seite des Displays hin aus seinem Anschluss auf der AirPort Karte heraus.

    • Achte beim Anschließen des AirPort Kabels darauf, dass die U-förmigen Einbuchtungen auf einer Seite des Kabelendes nicht sichtbar sind. (zur Karte hin gesehen). Wenn dieses Kabel falsch angeschlossen ist, wird das Logic Board beschädigt.

    I fried both of my Airport cards, couldn't figure out why, and came back here and read about these little U-shaped notches. I had to bring the computer into my office to compare both sides of this cable. I would be nice to make sure that this tid bit of information is very noticeable for those who are following along.

    wcking - Antwort

    Yea, I fried two motherboards before I came back here and re-read that the U notches must face the airport card.

    wcking -

    A super closeup photo of these notches would very helpful.

    Peter Mayo - Antwort

    If the note in this step can be updated to more accurately describe why the notches must be visible, that would be most helpful.

    Perhaps written as per “The camera cable (ie the AirPort cable) whilst it can fit in both ways, you WILL cause damage to either the card, the motherboard or both if the orientation is not correct.

    The cable MUST be installed so that the notches on one side of the cable are not visible”

    Charlie Nancarrow - Antwort

    Er, how sure is everyone about the directionality here? In the various images in this tutorial the connector appears with the U notches both facing and away. Perhaps the images reflect the learning process, but maybe the dot on the cable is key? One thing I can confirm is that it does matter - the cable connectivity is not symmetric.

    Robert Rossi - Antwort

    Well, I don't yet know what damage I did to my logic board, but the instructions here are correct, at least for the system I am working with: if installed the other way around (with the U notches facing away from the connector), the system will turn on but when you try to shut it off (power button, shutdown option in OS) it will immediately turn back on. Only a long-press on the power button will shut the system down such that it stays off.

    Robert Rossi - Antwort

  24. Entferne die letzte 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Seite der AirPort Karte ganz nahe am rechten Scharnier befestigt ist.
    • Entferne die letzte 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Seite der AirPort Karte ganz nahe am rechten Scharnier befestigt ist.

    This photo can be slightly misleading if you're not careful. It appears that unlike my cable, the pictured cable has the gray dot on both sides. In this photo you can see the 2 little sideways U notches that should be on the OTHER side. In photo 22 you can see that there are NO such notches as he is sliding the cable out of the connector.

    My gray dot is only on the underside (not visible when the cable is plugged in correctly. When I first took the cable out to replace my Airport board, I thought maybe it had been inserted the wrong way which will damage the motherboard. So the gray dots are not a good indicator, just look for the sideways U notches as indicated in the iFixit directions.

    madmaxmedia - Antwort

  25. Ziehe die AirPort Karte von ihrem Kühlkörper ab und entferne sie vom Display. Achte vor der Montage einer neuen AirPort Karte darauf, dass das Wärmeleitmaterial auf ihrer Oberfläche in Ordnung ist und richtig mit dem kleinen Kühlkörper am Displayrahmen ausgerichtet ist.
    • Ziehe die AirPort Karte von ihrem Kühlkörper ab und entferne sie vom Display.

    • Achte vor der Montage einer neuen AirPort Karte darauf, dass das Wärmeleitmaterial auf ihrer Oberfläche in Ordnung ist und richtig mit dem kleinen Kühlkörper am Displayrahmen ausgerichtet ist.

Abschluss

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I am sick of the occaisonal misinformation iFixit provides. The longer cable that connects on the right side of the screen is so very obviously not just the camera cable. It is also the cable for the Airport and Bluetooth cards... This misinformation led me to spend 100€ on two LCD cables which I now have no use for.

I don't wish to just complain though of course. Can someone please correct this? On the other pages for this MBP the cable is listed in the same way.

spacec0w - Antwort

The official Apple name for this cable is "camera cable", so that is what we call it. You'll have to take it up with Apple to change the name, as we try to stay consistent with how they name parts.

Andrew Bookholt -

I think iFixit does an amazing job of being accurate, given that the guides are written based on physical tear-downs. As a small-time mac technician, I am eternally grateful for the unlimited use of free, comprehensive guides. Instead of complaining about free advice, you can easily submit an edit to the guide if it is truly in error. The bottom line with Apple products - they are impeccably engineered, although have some annoyingly tedious steps because of the compact nature. They are build to last, but BE GENTLE!!

Logan Bean -

The connector from the cable into the airport card is socketed in different ways on the pictures in step 21, i have noticed that the connector fits in either way, but what way is the right one? im asking because after i followed this guide my airportcard doesnt work anymore:(

info - Antwort

see comment on step 22

Logan Bean -

Just wondering, I see this guide is for the 13" Unibody and I don't see a guide for the 15" ? Is it the same procedure as I don't think there would be that much difference other than size of machine. Also unless I missed it I do NOT see the WiFi #607-4144A card for sale on your site ? Or did I just miss it?

Thanks for such great information.

ve3pho - Antwort

after replacing the airport card, bluetooth is not available and the fan is on turbo speed.

wifi works. any suggestions?

hubert tauchner - Antwort

Hello, my wifi signal is gray, disassemble and the probe on another machine , it works fine. what I have to do and I find a solution?

esparzaomar - Antwort

This information and repair guide is one of the best I've seen, tremendous, Thank you.

laponte20 - Antwort

This is fantastic. I just did a replacement of the airport card in a friend’s MBP 13, 2009 without any problem. Thank you.

Durga Mahapatra - Antwort

Good morning,

May I kindly ask you to inform me how can I be sure what I have to change ? The airport card or the antenna ?

I have no wifi icon near the clock, however my bluetooth is working.

In the info system, my wifi show nothing.

I was even wondering if the bluetooth and the wifi are the same card ?

If you can guide me, I will be grateful

In advance thank you

Benjamin Fructus - Antwort

Could you please advise where can we buy the replacement card?

emmist - Antwort

I have a Mid 2009 13 mbp which I still use and love, running High Sierra beautifully with 8GB of ram and SSD, but I damaged the cable and have been getting by with an Edimax wifi dongle which works fine, but doesnt provide bluetooth and has some incompatibilities with the OS like geolocation with Siri.

My question is: Would it be possible to just buy the card, a new cable and new antenna BUT instead of opening up the display, place it in the Superdrive area? I've removed and there's empty space there.. The only problem I see is that the antenna is part of the plastic in the LCD, does it even work without an antenna? Surely it would still get a better reception than this tiny adapter, no?

Eli M - Antwort

How did you get running High Sierra on a Mid 2009 MBP? Just wondering because High Sierra is not supported on that machine.

Thanks

Marcos Grandi -

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