Zum Hauptinhalt wechseln

Repariere deine Sachen

Recht auf Reparatur

Werkzeug & Ersatzteile

Einleitung

Spare Geld und tausche nur das LCD anstatt der kompletten Displayeinheit.

  1. Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:
    • Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:

    • Sieben 3 mm Schrauben.

    • Drei 13,5 mm Schrauben.

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - Antwort

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

    http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...

    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - Antwort

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - Antwort

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - Antwort

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - Antwort

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

    Eric Sorenson - Antwort

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - Antwort

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - Antwort

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - Antwort

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:

    http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - Antwort

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - Antwort

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - Antwort

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - Antwort

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - Antwort

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - Antwort

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - Antwort

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - Antwort

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - Antwort

    j’ai remarqué que le 4 vis philips courtes sur le bord avant ont une courte entretoise

    celles des cotés n’en ont pas et sont courtes

    la dernière sur le bord qui comporte les 3 longues, est un poil plus longue

    si l’on ne fait pas attention, les vis des cotés ne peuvent pas se visser à fond et dépassent un peu

    parfait pour le reste ! Merci

    Vincent Morault - Antwort

  2. Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.
    • Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - Antwort

  3. Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.
    • Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.

    • Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - Antwort

    Zitat von gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - Antwort

    Zitat von gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - Antwort

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - Antwort

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - Antwort

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - Antwort

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

    Berlugana

    bduault - Antwort

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - Antwort

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).

    .

    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)

    .

    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - Antwort

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - Antwort

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - Antwort

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - Antwort

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - Antwort

  4. Heble den Stecker vom Subwoofer/rechten Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board. Sei dabei vorsichtig und hebele unter dem Stecker, so wie gezeigt, und nicht unter dem Sockel selbst. Du könntest sonst versehentlich den Sockel vom Logic Board abhebeln. Sei dabei vorsichtig und hebele unter dem Stecker, so wie gezeigt, und nicht unter dem Sockel selbst. Du könntest sonst versehentlich den Sockel vom Logic Board abhebeln.
    • Heble den Stecker vom Subwoofer/rechten Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Sei dabei vorsichtig und hebele unter dem Stecker, so wie gezeigt, und nicht unter dem Sockel selbst. Du könntest sonst versehentlich den Sockel vom Logic Board abhebeln.

    You must first separate the little foam pad to see better how to pry the cable

    connector up. You must be

    careful not to root up also its socket

    stuck on the logic board

    ramonananos - Antwort

    My subwoofer/right speaker connection seemed to be soldered on the main board. Of course, I pried this off..realizing right after that there was no reconnecting it (&^$%^@!). There's really no reason to even disconnect this wire on the MacBook pro 13 mid-2009

    Glad this is my "project" Mac

    srlincoln - Antwort

    Please Be Carefully With This Step, Because I Had To Resolder It Back To The Logic Board. But There Is A Black Foam Piece Over The Cable You Have To Pry Up, Lift The Foam Piece And Then Try To CAREFULLY Pry Cable Connector

    BWilliams842 - Antwort

    A better description would have been worth a lot....

    I accidently pried off the socket aswell... gonna have to go to the computer/robotics lab at my college to resolder it -.-

    Juliane Aschenbrenner - Antwort

    I didn't have to do step 4 for my mid-2010 13" mbp.

    jonk2015 - Antwort

    CAUTION!! Note is required here! First off step is truly unnecessary! Secondly, just don't do it!

    Edward Turkovich - Antwort

    A real closeup photo of this small piece of hard plastic that prevents the connector from falling out would be a great help. !

    Peter Mayo - Antwort

    Don't follow this step!!!! It is complete unnecessary. I just riped of the socket....

    hilbert - Antwort

    Thank you for the warning not to perform this step. It is unnecessary to unplug that connector.

    Fill IP - Antwort

    Clearly I should have read this as well, popped the socket off even being gentle.

    YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THIS STEP FOR MID 2009 MBP.

    cpt awesome - Antwort

  5. Löse das Kamerakabel, indem es gerade aus seinem Sockel herausziehst. Ziehe das Kabel über das Logic Board in Richtung des optischen Laufwerks. Ziehe es nicht nach oben, sonst wirst du den Anschluss kaputt machen.
    • Löse das Kamerakabel, indem es gerade aus seinem Sockel herausziehst.

    • Ziehe das Kabel über das Logic Board in Richtung des optischen Laufwerks. Ziehe es nicht nach oben, sonst wirst du den Anschluss kaputt machen.

    • Wenn du ein kleines Stück Plastik am Logic Board findest, das das Kamerakabel am herausrutschen hindert, löse es vorsichtig vom Logic Board. Erhitze es im Zweifel mit einem Fön oder einer Heißluftpistole, um den Kleber zu lösen. Versuche nicht, das Kabel über das Plastikstück zu ziehen.

    • Wenn du trotzdem Probleme hast, nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers und drücke abwechselnd an beiden Seiten des Anschlusses, um ihn langsam aus dem Sockel zu holen.

    Be careful to the piece of plastic that prevents camera cable failing out its socket! Do not force connector! Look at plastic before attempting to remove connector Plastic is partially covered by cdrom flat connector at right of camera cable connector

    Silvio - Antwort

    that's not only the camera but the wifi and bluetooth too. Be extremely careful!

    Jose Luis Blas - Antwort

    So I unfortunately did not find this guide when I was replacing my keyboard. I did at first force this connection, didn't know I could peel that black plastic piece off, then was able to smoothly get it in. Now my Bluetooth/Wi-Fi/web cam isn't working. I'm looking at the connection now and it looks undamaged. How do I know for certain I damaged the cord and/or socket

    Vic - Antwort

    Does anybody knows how I can change the cable+connector, and where to buy it? Thanks

    Guillermo - Antwort

    Please be VERY careful. I fixed my Macbook Pro A1278 Backlit Keyboard but lost my WiFi/Camera/Bluetooth…

    Caio Carvalho - Antwort

    This step is unnecessarily tricky. I’ve tried to make it better by adding images highlighting the plastic stopper thingy and showing a clear arrow of the direction the cable should be pulled.

    However, simply pulling the cable may not be enough to remove it. It sure wasn’t for me. I think there ought to be a close-up of the two little nubbins on the sides of the plug which one uses to wiggle it loose from the connector by gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. I didn’t add that tip because (a) it would have made the instructions longer, (b) I didn’t think to take a photo of it, and (c) using a screwdriver carelessly next to the logic board could scratch or break components on the motherboard. A guitar pick or very small spudger might work.

    hackerb9 - Antwort

    @hackerb9 Thanks for your edits and comments! I took some additional shots and tried to clean this up a little for everyone. There should be a lot less confusion now. Interestingly, neither of the two MacBook Pros used for these guides had the plastic retainer piece you folks mentioned, but I left that image in a link so everyone can still see what it looks like if needed.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for incorporating some of my edits and for taking new photos.

    Are you the one who took the original photographs? If so, you did originally have the hard plastic retainer as it was in those photos, just obscured by your thumbnail. The glue on the retainer allows it to shift a bit, so it's possible you took out the cable and knocked off the retainer without noticing it.

    Your two frame animation of pulling out the plug is helpful to show the proper direction. Given the number of people who have destroyed their MacBooks from this procedure, I think we should do even better. The instruction would be clearer if it said, “Disconnect the camera cable by sliding it horizontally out of its socket.”

    Also, if you can post a link to a picture without fingers in the shot, I will add an arrow showing the proper direction. (I would have added it to the original, but visually it would have gone through your fingers.)

    hackerb9 - Antwort

    P.s. this isn't as important, but where did you hear the tip about the hairdryer? I'd leave that out as firmly peeling it up works fine.

    hackerb9 -

    Negative, I’m not the original photographer. You’re right, I do see the retainer in some of the previous photos, although it wasn’t in any of the images for this particular step. May have been an oversight on the part of the original author! So I’m glad you caught it. I updated the verbiage as you requested. Don’t worry about adding arrows—at this point, if someone ignores both the images and the multiple warnings in the text, that’s no longer a fault with the guide. The heat/hairdryer tip is standard practice for anything that’s secured with adhesive—I hardly ever work on a MacBook of any vintage without using a heat gun at least a couple times. It may not be strictly necessary, but the result is much cleaner and it reduces the risk of accident.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Hello everyone, please tell me, next to the connector wifi, are 3 capacitors and 1 resistor (black)? I have black and brown swapped, I have one so macbook pro 2009

    silichev94 - Antwort

    I'm trying to understand your question. There's tons of little doodads everywhere. What is the issue? That the colors on your motherboard don't match the photo? If so, you needn't worry. It's normal for colors to vary.

    hackerb9 - Antwort

    https://yadi.sk/i/IvNFL6bWTsrY4g

    I'm talking about these smd, it's all capacitors or black is a resistor as it rings

    silichev94 -

    Yup, those are the thingies next to the connector in the picture. What's the problem?

    hackerb9 -

    I bought a macbook on ebay wifi Bluetooth and the camera are not working, the cable works, but it seems to me 1 of the capacitors is dead since it is ringing

    silichev94 - Antwort

  6. Fädle das Kameradatenkabel aus dem Kanal am optischen Laufwerk.
    • Fädle das Kameradatenkabel aus dem Kanal am optischen Laufwerk.

  7. Entferne folgende Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche das Kameradatenkabel und den rechten Lautsprecher an der Gehäuseoberseite befestigen: Zwei 8 mm Schrauben
    • Entferne folgende Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche das Kameradatenkabel und den rechten Lautsprecher an der Gehäuseoberseite befestigen:

    • Zwei 8 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 4 mm Schraube

    • Eine der 8 mm Schrauben wird im Erdungskontakt des Kamerakabels hängenbleiben.

    • Schiebe die Halterung des Kamerakabels unter dem Subwoofer hervor und entferne sie vom Computer.

    For my mid-2010 mbp, removing the 4mm screw is not enough as the camera cable bracket is under the black cover. I need to unscrew another screw (see the dark cover in step 6). However, the speaker (dark circle in step 6) is a strong magnet and the little screw flew onto it and crack the speaker slightly. You need to be very careful of this. The sound wasn't as clear when I turn on loud volume after that.

    jonk2015 - Antwort

    in my case the 8-mm screw was stuck. I needed to drill the head.

    Fill IP - Antwort

    Be careful when taking off the screws here. When I was taking apart the bracket, one of the screws became severely stripped (to the point where it was rounded. I had to wait to wait until my father got home so he can give me his screw extracting tools. The same can be said for the display cable bracket ( but that one wasn’t such a big deal for me since I didn’t severely strip it, a bigger screwdriver helped out for me.)

    Willie Narvaez - Antwort

  8. Fasse die Plastikzuglasche an, welche an der Sicherung des Displaydatenkabels befestigt ist, und drehe sie zur Seite des Computers mit dem Gleichstromeingang (DC-In). Ziehe den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels gerade aus seinem Sockel heraus. Achte darauf, dass du den Stecker gerade herausziehst, und nicht aus seinem Sockel nach oben.
    • Fasse die Plastikzuglasche an, welche an der Sicherung des Displaydatenkabels befestigt ist, und drehe sie zur Seite des Computers mit dem Gleichstromeingang (DC-In).

    • Ziehe den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels gerade aus seinem Sockel heraus.

    • Achte darauf, dass du den Stecker gerade herausziehst, und nicht aus seinem Sockel nach oben.

    Well, my display ended up looking like this after the repair:

    http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h366...

    As you can see, there was a light/dark banded pattern along the bottom of the screen, corresponding to the LCD's backlight. In my case it was also accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise. I swear to anything that's holy, it was not coming from the fan or the speaker, but rather the motherboard itself.

    Anyway, both these problems went away when I disconnected and reconnected the connector at this stage. I'm saying this on the off chance it helps someone else.

    Jonty Levine - Antwort

    I did what you said, disconnect and reconnect the display data cable but the problem didn't go away. Any idea how to fix this?

    jonk2015 -

    I also encountered the issue at the bottom of the screen. I can't get mine to go away. I can make it vary a bit or at least the whole display to vary by fluctuating the connection, but it just won't go away. I'm open to any other suggestions.

    I might have manhandled the bottom of my screen a bit. I didn't realize how to get the plastic u-shaped cover off, and I fudged around with it for a while before reading somewhere that it just slides down. I thought I had read that it snapped on, so I had been a little flustered on why it wouldn't snap off.

    Anyway, if anyone has suggestions I'd be all ears.

    Tim -

    It's not to clear but there is a piece of spring steel that rotates away from the main (circuit board side) of the connector....this piece sort of hugs the parameter of the screen cable locking it to the circuit board...both arms wrapped around your brother....looking closely (10x magnifier) at this cable one of the gold connections is slightly oxidized---my display arbitrarily flickers and this symptom is lessened as the temperature increases...I suspect this is the cuase of the screen flashing on/off

    brian62 - Antwort

  9. Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels am Gehäuseoberteil befestigen: Eine 7 mm Schraube
    • Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels am Gehäuseoberteil befestigen:

    • Eine 7 mm Schraube

    • Eine 5 mm Schraube.

    • Hebe die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels aus dem Gehäuseoberteil.

  10. Entferne die beiden äußeren 6,5 mm Torx Schrauben, welche jede der beiden Displayhalterungen am Gehäuseoberteil befestigen (also vier insgesamt). Das Modell von Mitte 2009 braucht einen T6 Torx-Schraubendreher, das Modell von Mitte 2010 einen T8.
    • Entferne die beiden äußeren 6,5 mm Torx Schrauben, welche jede der beiden Displayhalterungen am Gehäuseoberteil befestigen (also vier insgesamt).

    • Das Modell von Mitte 2009 braucht einen T6 Torx-Schraubendreher, das Modell von Mitte 2010 einen T8.

    This says t use a 6.5 mm Torx driver. In the required tools list it only mentions a 6 mm Torx driver. Where can we find a 6.5 mm Torx Driver?

    Matthew Shaw - Antwort

    The 6mm vs 6.5mm is the length of the screw. It is still a T6 head (although mine was a T7 for some reason). I think the middle screw on each side is 0.5mm longer.

    Dean Landry -

    lol… turns out mine is a mid-2012 model. That accounts for the different screw head. But the 6mm vs 6.5mm still use the same driver if they’re both T6.

    Dean Landry -

    In my case, i had to use a t8 screwdriver. My tools are not from Ifixit but i’m just sayin.

    Willie Narvaez - Antwort

    Correct! The screws on the Mid-2010 are T8. As far as the length goes they were 6.16 mm, 6.13 mm, 6.11 mm and 6.07 mm (measured end to end) and the head thickness was consistent at 0.85 mm on mine, so I,m going to go out on a limb ans say they are the same size. FYI, you can’t tell by eye any difference in size.

    It would pay to check on which A1278 sub-model you were working, just to allow for sub-model differences.

    Josh - Antwort

    My tools are from ifixit, just saying, also.

    Josh - Antwort

    Hey folks, regarding the screw/driver sizes: there are separate guides for the Mid 2010 model with the T8 screws. Always use the correct guide for your model to avoid confusion, stripped screws, etc. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen - Antwort

  11. Öffne das MacBook, so dass das Display senkrecht zum  Gehäuseoberteil steht.
    • Öffne das MacBook, so dass das Display senkrecht zum Gehäuseoberteil steht.

    • Stelle das geöffnete MacBook so wie gezeigt auf den Tisch.

    • Halte das Display und das Gehäuseoberteil mit der linken Hand fest. Entferne dann die letzte 6,5 mm Schraube von der unteren Displayhalterung mit einem Torx Schraubendreher.

  12. Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits

    Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits
  13. Achte darauf, das Display und das  Gehäuseoberteil gut mit der linken Hand festzuhalten. Wenn du dabei einen Fehler machst, könnte das Display/ Gehäuseobeteil hinfallen und dabei jedes Bauteil beschädigt werden.
    • Achte darauf, das Display und das Gehäuseoberteil gut mit der linken Hand festzuhalten. Wenn du dabei einen Fehler machst, könnte das Display/ Gehäuseobeteil hinfallen und dabei jedes Bauteil beschädigt werden.

    • Entferne die letzte 6 mm Schraube mit einem Torx Schraubendreher, welche das Display noch am Gehäuseoberteil festhält.

  14. Fasse das obere Gehäuse mit der rechten Hand an und drehe es etwas in Richtung Oberkante das Displays, so dass sich die obere Displayhalterung vom Rand des  Gehäuseoberteils löst. Drehe das Display ein wenig vom  Gehäuseoberteil weg.
    • Fasse das obere Gehäuse mit der rechten Hand an und drehe es etwas in Richtung Oberkante das Displays, so dass sich die obere Displayhalterung vom Rand des Gehäuseoberteils löst.

    • Drehe das Display ein wenig vom Gehäuseoberteil weg.

  15. Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom  Gehäuseoberteil. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Klammern oder Kabel verfangen.
    • Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom Gehäuseoberteil. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Klammern oder Kabel verfangen.

    Re-assembly hint: Laying the base, keyboard down, on a table top with the hinge side over the edge about 1/2" toward you is a more stable position for re-assembly than trying to do this up on its edge. This has the added benefit of being able to reinsert the torn screws vertically.

    Pete H - Antwort

    May be in the wrong place but then please direct me. At this step, can I just take off the upper half (meaning the screen, LCD, and top housing shell in one) and simply replace it with another upper half of the same edition???

    cmackay13stmarys - Antwort

    Yes, you can. Thanks what I'm doing now. :)

    Mike Mayaka -

    @Pete H, nice tip, thanks. 8-)

    Josh - Antwort

  16. In den folgenden Schritten wirst du mit einem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber aufweichen, mit dem der äußere schwarze Rand des Glases am Display befestigt ist. Der Bereich mit Kleber ist auf dem zweiten Bild rot markiert. Fange in der rechten oberen Ecke mit dem Erwärmen des schwarzen Randes an. Stelle das Heißluftgebläse auf niedrige Stufe.
    • In den folgenden Schritten wirst du mit einem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber aufweichen, mit dem der äußere schwarze Rand des Glases am Display befestigt ist. Der Bereich mit Kleber ist auf dem zweiten Bild rot markiert.

    • Fange in der rechten oberen Ecke mit dem Erwärmen des schwarzen Randes an. Stelle das Heißluftgebläse auf niedrige Stufe.

    • Richte die heiße Luft immer weg von der weichen Gummieinfassung um das Displayglas. Wenn du sie erwärmst, kann sie ein wenig schmelzen, so dass sie nicht mehr matt sondern glänzend aussieht. Wenn du sie berührst, kann sie dauerhaft verformt werden.

    • Durch die Wärmeeinwirkung kann sich eine Kondensationsschicht innen auf der Glasscheibe oder außen auf dem LCD bilden. Wenn die Glasscheibe vom Display getrennt ist, kann die Schicht mit Glasreiniger entfernt werden.

    Heating rubber strip it becomes glossy You can turn it to matte using ultrafine sandpaper (very ultrafine!!!) P2500

    Silvio - Antwort

    Great piece of advice. Thank you!

    Brian -

    With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:

    1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.

    2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.

    3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.

    Athanassios Diacakis - Antwort

    First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?

    Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?

    Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?

    contact - Antwort

    It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:

    Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.

    The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.

    The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.

    Jeff Kamis

    maccentric -

    ****EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE GLASS**** Instead of using this large heat gun, I used an Ancor Marine Grade Mirco Thermal Heat Gun (Ancor 702027) I picked up at West Marine. The tip is the exact width of the black trim and really concentrates the heat to the tape without heating outter rubber trim. No lie....I followed the heat gun all the way around the edge with a tiny pry tool and the glass was off in 5 min!!

    LKFitzgerald1 - Antwort

    what temperature did u have it set at? I have a digital rework station i want to use.

    Bradley -

    All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).

    Nick - Antwort

    The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!

    brian62 - Antwort

    Be ready to replace the glass (good thing mine was already broken, I ordered one). Wear surgery gloves and protective glasses. Trust your nose, if it smell melted plastic, it’s a good clue to stop the heat.

    Sebastien CHAPUIS - Antwort

    It's more easy to do this step before removing the LCD. You have more control of the LCD and is more easy to remove the Glass.

    Felix - Antwort

    If you have a glass cover that is severely cracked then the heating gun and suction cup procedure really doesn’t work. Suction cups won’t hold and the already broken glass doesn’t lift. Here’s what I did that made the job easier. Using 2 inch wide transparent packing tape I laid it along the perimeter of the display but not covering the rubber edge. Then I used a 1/4 inch wood carving tool and very carefully removed the glass and 2 sided tape around the metal border. Use as your guide picture 2 in this step that shows where the camera and cable is located. Where the camera is located in the top center the 2 sided tape isn’t located so you can easily lift the glass. The camera cable runs up the right side in a trough in the metal border so when lifting the tape and glass in this area just keep the sharp end flat and it is wide enough it won’t dip into the trough and damage the cable. The tape was very helpful because it kept the glass from splintering and going everywhere.

    joe lochner - Antwort

    • Wenn die Scheibe warm genug ist, befestige einen kräftigen Saugheber in der rechten oberen Ecke der Glasscheibe.

    • Befestige den Saugheber nicht auf der Gummieinfassung an der Kante der Glasscheibe.

    • Um unseren Saugheber zu befestigen, bringe ihn zuerst mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Glasscheibe an. Drücke den Saugheber leicht gegen das Glas und kippe den beweglichen Griff, bis er parallel zum anderen steht.

    • Ziehe die Ecke des Displayglases langsam und vorsichtig von der Displayeinheit hoch.

    • Wenn - wie im dritten Bild zu sehen - sich nur die Oberkante der Glasscheibe anhebt, dann wiederhole Schritt 1 und 2, bis du die Ecke des Displays anheben kannst.

  17. Hebe die Ecke des Displayglases behutsam so hoch, dass du einen Spudger zwischen ihm und der Displayeinheit einsetzen kannst. Heble das Displayglas vorsichtig mit dem Spudger aus der Klebeverbindung zum Display hoch. Heble die Glasscheibe einige Zentimeter von der oberen rechten Ecke aus entlang der oberen und rechten Kante hoch.
    • Hebe die Ecke des Displayglases behutsam so hoch, dass du einen Spudger zwischen ihm und der Displayeinheit einsetzen kannst.

    • Heble das Displayglas vorsichtig mit dem Spudger aus der Klebeverbindung zum Display hoch.

    • Heble die Glasscheibe einige Zentimeter von der oberen rechten Ecke aus entlang der oberen und rechten Kante hoch.

  18. Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen am rechten Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe. Bringe einen Saugheber an der rechten Seite der vorderen Glasscheibe an.
    • Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen am rechten Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe.

    • Bringe einen Saugheber an der rechten Seite der vorderen Glasscheibe an.

    • Ziehe die Glasscheibe hoch und trenne sie gleichzeitig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Displayeinheit ab.

    • Arbeite so lange weiter, bis der rechte Rand der Glasscheibe komplett vom Display abgelöst ist.

    • Es kann hilfreich sein, wenn du mit einem Plektrum oder einem anderen flachen Werkzeug verhinderst, das sich die obere rechte Ecke wieder am Display festklebt.

    I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!

    mastover - Antwort

  19. Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen am oberen Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe. Bringe einen Saugheber am oberen Rand  der vorderen Glasscheibe an und ziehe die Glasscheibe vom Display weg.
    • Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen am oberen Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe.

    • Bringe einen Saugheber am oberen Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe an und ziehe die Glasscheibe vom Display weg.

    • Arbeite weiter sorgfältig am oberen Rand entlang, wobei du beim Auftrennen des Klebers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers nachhelfen kannst.

  20. Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen um die obere linke Ecke der vorderen Glasscheibe. Bringe einen Saugheber in der oberen linken Ecke der vorderen Glasscheibe an.
    • Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen um die obere linke Ecke der vorderen Glasscheibe.

    • Bringe einen Saugheber in der oberen linken Ecke der vorderen Glasscheibe an.

    • Ziehe am Saugheber und heble vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers die Glasscheibe aus der Displayeinheit heraus.

    • Wenn du die obere linke Ecke abgelöst hast, kann es hilfreich sein, mit einem Plektrum oder einem anderen flachen Werkzeug zu verhindern, dass sich die Glasscheibe wieder mit der Displayeinheit verklebt.

  21. Benutze einen Haartrockner oder ein Heißluftgebläse, um den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen an der linken Seite der Glasscheibe aufzuweichen. Bringe einen Saugheber an der linken Seite der vorderen Glasscheibe an.
    • Benutze einen Haartrockner oder ein Heißluftgebläse, um den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen an der linken Seite der Glasscheibe aufzuweichen.

    • Bringe einen Saugheber an der linken Seite der vorderen Glasscheibe an.

    • Ziehe die vordere Glasscheibe hoch und trenne sie gleichzeitig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der restlichen Displayeinheit ab.

    • Setze die Arbeit an der linken Kante des vorderen Displayglases fort, bis sie ganz vom Display abgelöst ist.

  22. Nachdem nun die obere, rechte und linke Kante der Glasscheibe abgelöst sind, kannst du die Oberkante der Glasscheibe langsam anheben und vom Display wegdrehen. Befreie, wenn nötig, die Unterkante der Glasscheibe mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus der Klebeverbindung zur Displayeinheit.
    • Nachdem nun die obere, rechte und linke Kante der Glasscheibe abgelöst sind, kannst du die Oberkante der Glasscheibe langsam anheben und vom Display wegdrehen.

    • Befreie, wenn nötig, die Unterkante der Glasscheibe mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus der Klebeverbindung zur Displayeinheit.

    • Bevor du die Glasscheibe wieder befestigst, musst du die Innenseite de Glasscheibe und das LCD erst gut reinigen. Fingerabdrücke oder eingeschlossene Staubkörnchen sind später sehr störend sichtbar.

    How do you clean the LCD without damaging it? I have some glass dust and other things including a fingerprint resting on the screen, though I have yet to damage the LCD and would like to keep it that way.

    Erin - Antwort

  23. Überspringe diesen Schritt, wenn du die ursprüngliche Glasscheibe wieder einbaust. Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug zwischen Glasscheibe und Kamerahalterung ein und schiebe es um die Kamerahalterung herum, bis sie sich ablöst.
    • Überspringe diesen Schritt, wenn du die ursprüngliche Glasscheibe wieder einbaust.

    • Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug zwischen Glasscheibe und Kamerahalterung ein und schiebe es um die Kamerahalterung herum, bis sie sich ablöst.

    • Vergiss beim Zusammenbau nicht, die Kamerahalterung an der neuen Glasscheibe festzukleben.

    I had issues getting the panel back on till I got rid of the little camera bracket. I just made sure the glass aligned properly then removed the bracket. The bracket didn't stick worth beans anyway.

    mastover - Antwort

  24. Beim Ausbau der Glasscheibe kann das Kamerakabel an der Glasscheibe kleben bleiben, so dass es beim Abheben der Scheibe von der Kameraplatine abgetrennt wird. Wenn das Kamerakabel bei dir noch angeschlossen ist, kannst du diesen Schritt überspringen. Bevor du das Kabel wieder anschließen kannst, musst du erst das Stück Klebeschaumstoff über dem ZIF-Verbinder des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze ablösen. Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.
    • Beim Ausbau der Glasscheibe kann das Kamerakabel an der Glasscheibe kleben bleiben, so dass es beim Abheben der Scheibe von der Kameraplatine abgetrennt wird. Wenn das Kamerakabel bei dir noch angeschlossen ist, kannst du diesen Schritt überspringen.

    • Bevor du das Kabel wieder anschließen kannst, musst du erst das Stück Klebeschaumstoff über dem ZIF-Verbinder des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze ablösen.

    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.

    • Schiebe das Kamerakabel in seinen Anschluss auf der Kameraplatine hinein und klappe den Sicherungsbügel mit der Spudgerspitze herunter, so dass das Kabel wieder gut im ZIF-Verbinder gesichert ist.

    • Klebe das Stück Schaumstoff wieder am Anschluss des Kamerakabels fest.

  25. Schiebe die Verschlussabdeckung zur rechten Displayseite. Sie sollte sich etwa 7 mm nach rechts bewegen lassen und dann stoppen. Zwinge sie nicht über diesen Punkt hinaus.
    • Schiebe die Verschlussabdeckung zur rechten Displayseite.

    • Sie sollte sich etwa 7 mm nach rechts bewegen lassen und dann stoppen. Zwinge sie nicht über diesen Punkt hinaus.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass du sie ungefähr 7 mm weiter rechts als in der endgültigen Position am Display über die Teile hinweg schiebst, die an der Unterkante des Displays vorstehen.

    The plastic tabs of the clutch fit into slots that end up holding the clutch in place. The idea is that you need to slide the clutch to the right to free the plastic tabs from the metal slots in the LCD frame.....then you can separate the clutch from the frame.

    brian62 - Antwort

  26. Beginne ganz rechts und rüttle die Verschlussabdeckung vorsichtig auf ihrer langen Achse vor und zurück und ziehe sie dabei vom Display weg. Arbeite von rechts nach links und löse die Abdeckung behutsam aus der Unterkante der Displayeinheit heraus. Hebe die Verschlussabdeckung von der Frontblende hoch und lege sie zur Seite.
    • Beginne ganz rechts und rüttle die Verschlussabdeckung vorsichtig auf ihrer langen Achse vor und zurück und ziehe sie dabei vom Display weg.

    • Arbeite von rechts nach links und löse die Abdeckung behutsam aus der Unterkante der Displayeinheit heraus.

    • Hebe die Verschlussabdeckung von der Frontblende hoch und lege sie zur Seite.

    • Achte beim Anbringen der Verschlussabdeckung darauf, dass du die Öffnung aufweitest, wenn du sie über die kleine schwarze Zierabdeckung ziehst, die das offene Ende der Verschlussabdeckung verdeckt, wenn sie fertig angebracht ist. Die Zierabdeckung hat empfindliche kleine Befestigungsarme, mit denen sie im rechten Scharnier befestigt ist.

    Highly recommended to remove clutch cover BEFORE heating up glass, because cover is made of very thin plastic and it'll be deformed!

    Basically, I'm removing everything from screen - clutch cover, wifi card, antenna, all plastic bits, and only then proceed with heating and glass removal.

    DigiHead - Antwort

    Starting at it's far LEFT end

    Job - Antwort

    just slide the plastic cover to the right and it comes right off.

    William - Antwort

  27. Hole das Displaydatenkabel aus seiner Halterung nahe an der linken unteren Displaykante heraus.
    • Hole das Displaydatenkabel aus seiner Halterung nahe an der linken unteren Displaykante heraus.

  28. Entferne folgende sechs Schrauben, mit denen das LCD an der Frontblende befestigt ist:
    • Entferne folgende sechs Schrauben, mit denen das LCD an der Frontblende befestigt ist:

    • Vier 3,25 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben mit großen Köpfen.

    • Zwei 3,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben mit kleinen Köpfen.

  29. Versuche noch nicht, das LCD zu entfernen. Die Leitungen entlang der Unterkante sind noch in einem Spalt in der Einlassung für das LCD in der Aluminium-Displayeinheit eingezwängt.
    • Versuche noch nicht, das LCD zu entfernen. Die Leitungen entlang der Unterkante sind noch in einem Spalt in der Einlassung für das LCD in der Aluminium-Displayeinheit eingezwängt.

    • Halte das Display senkrecht und neige es soweit, bis du die Oberkante des Displays fassen kannst. Drehe es dann leicht aus der Displayeinheit heraus, achte dabei darauf, dass die Leitungen nicht aus der Unterkante herausbrechen.

  30. Ziehe das LCD zum oberen Rand des Displays hin, so dass die Leitungen an der Unterkante aus der Einlassung in der Aluminium- Displayeinheit herausgleiten.
    • Ziehe das LCD zum oberen Rand des Displays hin, so dass die Leitungen an der Unterkante aus der Einlassung in der Aluminium- Displayeinheit herausgleiten.

    • Es hilft, wenn du das Displaydatenkabel mit einer Hand durch seinen Kanal in der Aluminium-Displayeinheit führst, während du das LCD mit der anderen Hand zum oberen Rand des Displays ziehst.

  31. Ziehe das Stück Klebeband vom Stecker des Displaydatenkabels von der Kante des LCDs her ab.
    • Ziehe das Stück Klebeband vom Stecker des Displaydatenkabels von der Kante des LCDs her ab.

  32. Klappe den dünnen Metallhalter hoch, mit dem das Displaydatenkabel in seinem Anschluss auf dem LCD gesichert ist. Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade von seinem Anschluss auf dem LCD weg.
    • Klappe den dünnen Metallhalter hoch, mit dem das Displaydatenkabel in seinem Anschluss auf dem LCD gesichert ist.

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade von seinem Anschluss auf dem LCD weg.

    • Hebe das LCD von der Displayeinheit weg und lege es zur Seite.

    Has anyone had compatibility issues with the LVDS cable not being compatible with certain displays? I am trying to replace an LG LP133WX3 with an AU B133EW04 and it seems the cable connectors are different and not compatible.

    brdnboy - Antwort

    how do you reattach the glass since it was held by adhesive?

    Mike - Antwort

    I'm doing this tonight and I imagine it's simply reheating the adhesive to get it tacky again and then pressing it into place. At least I hope!

    Brian -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

114 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:

100%

Diese Übersetzer helfen uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Beginne zu übersetzen ›

When I removed the glass, the adhesive pulled up the camera left side gold ribbon cable. I removed the screw securing the small circuit board to the left of the camera and flipped it over. There's a tiny connector there. I had to pull back the gold tape (on the ribbon cable) and carefully feed the end of the gold mylar ribbon cable into the connector. The gold tape then falls over the top of the connector and would normally hold it place if it hadn't lost it's adhesive.

jpcarroll - Antwort

As the glass may be broken on these, I found that putting Duct tape across the broken screen helped keep it together better for easier removal. Also you might want to watch the small suction cup that comes in the kit as the metal pull ring melts right out, I had to use my bigger suction cups.

mayer - Antwort

consider removing clutch plate before heating, it will melt if your not careful

hebertgreg - Antwort

Suggest asking if they purchased a refurbished model. My last client's glass was held on with 30lb 3M shelf tape. No amount of heat or alcohol would remove it. Thank goodness the glass was already broken. I had to work for 2 hours to remove all of the glass, and old adhesive is not wanting to come off with elbow grease and alcohol. Going to try using tiny, careful amounts of goo-gone. Don't want anyone else to ever have to deal with this on future repairs (Client is a traveler, and accident prone)

Brent Hillyer - Antwort

What is the model number on the back of the original LCD screen?

Morgan Spencer - Antwort

It's more easy to do the Step 15 first, before removing the LCD. You have more control of the LCD and is more easy to remove the Glass.

Felix - Antwort

Kommentar hinzufügen

Statistik anzeigen:

Letzten 24 Stunden: 5

Letzten 7 Tage: 67

Letzten 30 Tage: 324

Insgesamt: 150,157