Einleitung
Tausche mit Hilfe dieser Anleitung ein gebrochenes Displayglas aus.
Was du brauchst
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Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:
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Sieben 3 mm Schrauben.
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Drei 13,5 mm Schrauben.
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Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
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Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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Heble den Stecker des Subwoofers/rechten Lautsprechers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board hoch.
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Fädle das Kamerakabel aus seinem Kanal im optischen Laufwerk heraus.
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Entferne folgende Schrauben:
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Zwei 10 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
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Eine 3,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Ziehe die Kamerakabelhalterung unter dem Subwoofer vor und entferne sie vom Computer.
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Fasse die Plastikzuglasche an der Verriegelung des Displaydatenkabels und kippe sie nach oben über den Stecker in Richtung der Seite am Computer mit der Gleichstromversorgung (DC-in).
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Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
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Achte darauf, dass du den Stecker direkt vom Anschluss weg und nicht senkrecht nach oben ziehst.
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Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen der Halter des Displaydatenkabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Eine 5,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Hebe den Halter des Displaydatenkabels aus dem oberen Gehäuse.
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Entferne die beiden äußeren 6,5 mm Torx T8 Schrauben, mit denen die beiden Displayhalterungen am oberen Gehäuse befestigt sind. (Also insgesamt vier Schrauben)
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Öffne das MacBook Pro so, dass das Display rechtwinklig zum oberen Gehäuse steht.
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Stelle das geöffnete Gerät wie gezeigt auf den Tisch.
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Halte Display und oberes Gehäuse mit der linken Hand zusammen. Drehe dann die verbliebene Torx T8 Schraube aus der oberen Displayhalterung heraus.
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Drehe die letzte verbliebene T8 Torx Schraube, die das Display noch am oberen Gehäuse befestigt, heraus.
When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!
Save yourself some time and don't drop it!
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Fasse das obere Gehäuseteil mit der rechten Hand und drehe es leicht in Richtung Oberkante des Displays. Dadurch löst sich die obere Displayhalterung von der Kante des oberen Gehäuses.
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Drehe das Display leicht vom oberen Gehäuse weg.
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Hebe das Display hoch und vom oberen Gehäuse weg, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Halterungen oder Kabel verfangen.
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Fange in der rechten oberen Ecke mit dem Erwärmen des schwarzen Randes an. Stelle das Heißluftgebläse auf niedrige Stufe.
With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:
1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.
2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.
3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.
First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?
Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?
Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?
It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:
Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.
The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.
The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.
Jeff Kamis
All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).
The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!
Be ready to replace the glass (good thing mine was already broken, I ordered one). Wear surgery gloves and protective glasses. Trust your nose, if it smell melted plastic, it’s a good clue to stop the heat.
If you have a glass cover that is severely cracked then the heating gun and suction cup procedure really doesn’t work. Suction cups won’t hold and the already broken glass doesn’t lift. Here’s what I did that made the job easier. Using 2 inch wide transparent packing tape I laid it along the perimeter of the display but not covering the rubber edge. Then I used a 1/4 inch wood carving tool and very carefully removed the glass and 2 sided tape around the metal border. Use as your guide picture 2 in this step that shows where the camera and cable is located. Where the camera is located in the top center the 2 sided tape isn’t located so you can easily lift the glass. The camera cable runs up the right side in a trough in the metal border so when lifting the tape and glass in this area just keep the sharp end flat and it is wide enough it won’t dip into the trough and damage the cable. The tape was very helpful because it kept the glass from splintering and going everywhere.
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Wenn die Scheibe warm genug ist, befestige einen kräftigen Saugheber in der rechten oberen Ecke der Glasscheibe.
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Ziehe die Ecke des Displayglases langsam und vorsichtig von der Displayeinheit hoch.
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Hebe die Ecke des Displayglases behutsam so hoch, dass du einen Spudger zwischen ihm und der Displayeinheit einsetzen kannst.
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Heble das Displayglas vorsichtig mit dem Spudger aus der Klebeverbindung zum Display hoch.
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Heble die Glasscheibe einige Zentimeter von der oberen rechten Ecke aus entlang der oberen und rechten Kante hoch.
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Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen am rechten Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe.
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Bringe einen Saugheber an der rechten Seite der vorderen Glasscheibe an.
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Ziehe die Glasscheibe hoch und trenne sie gleichzeitig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Displayeinheit ab.
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Arbeite so lange weiter, bis der rechte Rand der Glasscheibe komplett vom Display abgelöst ist.
I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!
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Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen am oberen Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe.
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Bringe einen Saugheber am oberen Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe an und ziehe die Glasscheibe vom Display weg.
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Arbeite weiter sorgfältig am oberen Rand entlang, wobei du beim Auftrennen des Klebers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers nachhelfen kannst.
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Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen um die obere linke Ecke der vorderen Glasscheibe.
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Bringe einen Saugheber in der oberen linken Ecke der vorderen Glasscheibe an.
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Ziehe am Saugheber und heble vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers die Glasscheibe aus der Displayeinheit heraus.
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Benutze einen Haartrockner oder ein Heißluftgebläse, um den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen an der linken Seite der Glasscheibe aufzuweichen.
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Bringe einen Saugheber an der linken Seite der vorderen Glasscheibe an.
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Ziehe die vordere Glasscheibe hoch und trenne sie gleichzeitig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der restlichen Displayeinheit ab.
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Setze die Arbeit an der linken Kante des vorderen Displayglases fort, bis sie ganz vom Display abgelöst ist.
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Nachdem nun die obere, rechte und linke Kante der Glasscheibe abgelöst sind, kannst du die Oberkante der Glasscheibe langsam anheben und vom Display wegdrehen.
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Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug zwischen Glasscheibe und Kamerahalterung ein und schiebe es um die Kamerahalterung herum, bis sie sich ablöst.
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Bevor du das Kabel wieder anschließen kannst, musst du erst das Stück Klebeschaumstoff über dem ZIF-Verbinder des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze ablösen.
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.
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Schiebe das Kamerakabel in seinen Anschluss auf der Kameraplatine hinein und klappe den Sicherungsbügel mit der Spudgerspitze herunter, so dass das Kabel wieder gut im ZIF-Verbinder gesichert ist.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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7 Kommentare
If the glass you are replacing is badly broken the suction cups may not attach. I ended up having to remove the glass piece by piece and the process took a couple of hours. You should wear protective glasses and wear rubber gloves to prevent getting finger prints on the lcd screen. Although this was a time consuming process I was successful removing the broken glass and replacing without any issues.
I actually had the same problem as David but in 2 hrs I had removed all of the glass pieces. Now my MB looks like it had never fallen!
Thanks ifixit, you saved me €450.
PS. the parts were in Belgium in 3.5 days, I was amazed at how fast it was.
I found it more convenient to lay the computer keyboard-down on a table with the display hanging over the edge while performing steps 11–15.
The need for a hot air gun greatly increases the possibility of damaging various parts of the laptop [keyboard, airport antenna assembly, clutch cover, strip around the screen, even the screen, possibly the two brackets --- which allow the top and bottom cases to fold together for the clamshell effect --- which are not metal but rather plastic painted to look like metal]. Some people have spent the extra money to buy a special hot air gun with a small focused spout. But, the smarter, simpler, approach is to forget about replacing just the front glass cover and replace the entire display assembly instead. iFixIt is currently out of stock of entire display assemblies, but you can find them elsewhere on the Net for $100 or less. Instead of buying iFixIt's glass cover and recommended tools, I could have bought the entire display assembly for about the same money.
The thickness / coverage of the area available to put the adhesive is plentiful which allows you to use more adhesive than you need. Anyway what I use is red double sided tape as it's adhesive strength is very good and the thickness is good to use in this case. It's called 'PET red double sided transparent tape'.
I think iFixit sells rolls of them which aren't really expensive at all.
Ben -
Followed this, step by step, using a mid power hair dryer as the heat source. No difficulties what so ever. Everything came apart as expected, leaving the cables in the clamshell and not stuck to the glass on removal. Paid attention to getting the glass and the LCD as clean as possible before re assembly. Now the cracked screen that was in six parts is replaced with a replacement glass and everything works as it should and no dirt or debris between the glass or LCD. I purposely used a hairdryer as heat guns are notoriously powerful, and just took my time with the glass removal. No heat destroyed rubber seal or condensation on removal. Patience is the name of the game with this repair...
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - Antwort
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Antwort
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Antwort
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - Antwort