Einleitung
Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du ein defektes Mikrofon austauschen kannst.
Was du brauchst
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Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:
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Sieben 3 mm Schrauben.
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Drei 13,5 mm Schrauben.
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Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
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Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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Benutze einen Spudger um den Verbinder des Ventilatorkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine zu lösen.
Thankfully there is a helpful guide in the comments on this post for fixing the socket in the likely event that you snap the sucker clean off like I did:
Broke it as well the picture is very misleading.
Local mobile repair shop soldered it back for me.. but it cost me twice as much as fan I ordered from china. They told me to use two tools in the future.. one to keep the edge down and other to gauge gently from under the cables...
Bade -
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Löse die folgenden drei Schrauben:
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Eine 7 mm Torx T6 Schraube
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Zwei 5,4 mm Torx T6Schrauben
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Fasse die Zuglasche am Sicherungsbügel des Display-Datenkabels an und drehe es in Richtung der Seite mit DC-in Buchse.
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Ziehe den Verbinder des Display-Datenkabels vorsichtig direkt aus seinem Sockel heraus, parallel zum Logic Board.
On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.
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Drehe folgende Kreuzschlitzschrauben heraus, die die Befestigungsklammer des Display-Datenkabels am Gehäuse sichern:
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Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Eine 5,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Hebe die Klammer des Display-Datenkabels aus dem Gehäuse.
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Heble die Verbinder vom Subwoofer und rechten Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vom Logic Board.
The first time i tried this on a MBP 13 I broke the connector form the board. It should be noted that you have to be very careful in this step, as the plug fits very tightly and you can easily use too much force to tear the connector from the board. Use a second spudger to hold down the connector at its border and try very gently using a second spudger to move the plug out of the connector upwards.
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Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels in die Richtung des optischen Laufwerks, um es vom Logic Board zu trennen.
As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.
Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.
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Heble die Verbinder vom optischen Laufwerk, von der Festplatte und vom Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vom Logic Board.
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Hebe die Sicherungsklappe am ZIF-Verbinder für das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur mit dem Fingernagel oder einer Spudgerspitze hoch.
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Schiebe dann mit dem Spudger das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur aus dem Sockel.
Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.
Toothpicks did the trick, thanks
As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.
Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!
Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.
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Ziehe das kleine Stück schwarzes Band vom Sockel des Flachbandkabels der Tastaturbeleuchtung ab.
Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.
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Hebe die Sicherungsklappe am ZIF-Verbinder für das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.
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Schiebe dann mit dem Spudger das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung aus dem Sockel.
Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.
I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in
A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.
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Heble den Verbinder des Kabels der Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus dem Logic Board.
If you’re swapping top cases, you might need to remove the battery indicator from the case and swap it to the replacement top case. It attaches with three very tiny Phillips screws. I wasn’t aware that my replacement top case didn’t have this part and got confused when reversing the steps to reassemble and I didn’t have this connector. I had to take the battery back out in order to swap the indicator over.
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Löse die Klebeverbindung des Mikrofons am oberen Gehäuse mit der Spudgerspitze.
on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.
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Entferne folgende Torx-Schrauben:
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Zwei 7mm T6 Torx Schrauben an der DC-in Platine.
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Fünf 3,3 mm T6 Torx Schrauben
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Zwei 4 mm T6 Schrauben
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Entferne folgende TriPoint Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:
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Eine 5,5 mm TriPoint Schraube
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Eine 13,5 mm TriPoint Schraube
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Hebe den Akku aus dem Gehäuse.
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Hebe das Logic Board am linken Rand hoch, bis die Ports aus der Seite des oberen Gehäuses frei werden.
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Ziehe das Logic Board von der Seite des Gehäuses weg, achte dabei darauf, dass sich die DC-in Platine nicht verfängt.
Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.
mid 2012: Careful of the left speaker (on your right because unit is upside down). Gently remove with spudger tool before removing logic board and when reinstalling press firmly back into place with spudger. Install speaker after putting logic board in place but before installing screws.
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Heble den Mikrofonkabelstecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom Logic Board hoch.
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Hole das Mikrofonkabel aus dem Kanal im linken Lautsprecher heraus.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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Ein Kommentar
Thank you!! I have fixed mic, left speaker, right speaker + buffer, added thermal grease to processor ship and back led keyboard all at once.
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - Antwort
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Antwort
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Antwort
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - Antwort