Einleitung
Durch den Austausch des defekten Displays erhältst du ein neues LCD, Frontscheibe, Displayrahmen, iSight Kamera und neue AirPort Antennen.
Was du brauchst
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Entferne die zehn Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.
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Drei 13,5 mm (14,1 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben.
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Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.
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Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an und löse es so von den beiden Clips, die es mit dem Gehäuseoberteil verbinden.
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Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil und lege es zur Seite.
16 GB is the max
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Benutze die Kante eines Spudgers, um den Akkustecker nach oben aus seinem Anschluss zu hebeln.
nails work pretty well as well...
At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.
It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.
Other than that, an excellent guide!
the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)
the hard drive changing worked though.
Any tool used to pry on the battery connector must be non metallic, to prevent unintentional short circuit between the connector pins. In my case, my index finger nails were strong enough.
Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.
Patrick.
So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.
Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?
Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...
I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.
I used the spudger to gently ease the battery connector out. I then placed a q-tip between the connector and it’s socket to avoid making an accidental connection. A toothpick or some other soft stick might also work.
My battery connector had a shiny metal cover over it like a male USB plug. I had to take the 3 peace symbol screws oit and remove the battery before I could access thr plug properly. My battery plug also came off parallel to the board by walking the black plastic part off the metal part towards the battery. It required quite a bit of force to walk it off the connector. I broke a spudger trying. Something nonconductive but strong like a wittled down bamboo chopstick could work well.
Translate to Spanish:
Para ciertas reparaciones (por ejemplo, el disco duro), no es necesario desconectar el conector de la batería, pero evita cualquier cortocircuito accidental de la electrónica en la placa base. Si no desconecta el conector de la batería, tenga cuidado ya que partes de la placa base pueden estar electrificadas.
Use el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Es útil hacer palanca hacia arriba en ambos lados cortos del conector para "sacarlo" de su zócalo.
The BATTERY MUST BE DISCONNECTED - it is NOT OPTIONAL if you are going to remove the logic board.
These instructions are for Removing The Logic Board, so if that is what you are going to do the battery MUST be disconnected.
The informational item beginning with the words “For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary … “ is NOT applicable to a set of instructions on removing a logic board and it should be deleted from this otherwise excellent set of instructions.
In my opinion the RAM should be removed first - i.e., before the battery is removed.
The RAM DIMMS are just in the way if they are left in their sockets on the logic board until step 33.
I cannot see any useful reason to not remove them very early in the sequence.
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Biege das Akkukabel leicht von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board weg, damit es sich nicht versehentlich wieder selbst verbindet, während du arbeitest.
My battery connect was like mid 2010 model
Why not go ahead and remove the battery at this point instead of bending the battery connector back (see steps 23 -25 below)?
Translate to Sanish: Doble el cable de la batería ligeramente lejos de su zócalo en la placa lógica para que no se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabaja.
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Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
This step did not provide enough direction and is the reason my cable is either broke/not working now. I tried pulling it out of the logic board, as indicated, but it did not budge. I was extremely careful not to damage it, so I gave up on trying to remove it once I saw that it wasn't moving. Lo and behold, once I fired the Macbook up again, the camera is no longer connected. This step should have additional details/explanation as to why the cable may not come out/what to do if it doesn't (I was able to proceed to the next steps by working around the cable, so it didn't even have to be removed as the guide might have you think).
Does anyone know how to properly fix it/where to buy a replacement camera/iSight cable? I would like to fix this if possible.
I would like to add – several months later, my Macbook Pro failed to turn on and the motherboard had to be replaced. I'm giving partial blame to this guide for failing to adequately describe how to safely proceed on this step (I suspect a bad wifi card was part of the problem). Anyone else following this guide be very wary!
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Ziehe das AirPort/Bluetooth-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
This step literally ruined my MacBook Pro. The ribbon cable pulled off of the logic board, and will no longer reconnect.
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Löse die vier Antennenstecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus ihren Sockeln auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.
I found the problem with my wifi: sadly the connector solder joint j4 of the wifi board was not stable enough. now the socket is inside of the connector and not joined with the board. How do I remove the socket from inside of the connector? Is this even possible?
Replying to Bodo Tasche:
The antenna connection sockets are only held onto the wifi board with solder, on two small pads, so it is easy to break one of them off, I have done it on one occasion. I was able to pull the remains of the socket out of the antenna wire plug with tweezers, but had to replace the damaged wifi board with another one.
Here’s another thing to consider if your Unibody MacBook Pro has wifi problems: Your wifi ANTENNA. The antenna is mounted in the center of the display hinge. The antenna wires — the same ones that plug onto the wifi board — can break from repeated flexing at the point they pass through the hinge into the display. This was the cause of my wifi issues. Swapping the wifi board made no difference.
If your wifi connection stats show consistently very low signal strength and signal-to-noise, even with a nearby access point, consider the possibility that the antenna may need replacement. (It’s a difficult repair, and iFixit doesn’t seem to currently have a guide for it.)
Thanks James - Antenna was my issue (good WiFi sat directly next to router - zero WiFi >1m away from it.
Antenna Replacement guide now (2023) posted:
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2012 Airport and Bluetooth Antenna Replacement
Ross -
I would leave these attached and just dangling if you don’t need to replace the Airport/bluetooth board. They’re a pain to reattach and breakage seems somewhat common.
If you DO end up detaching these, I found it easiest to pry up gently from the wire side to remove, but also the reattach them the same way, with the wire side high. That means you want to tuck the cables AFTER reattaching them, except for the longest one of the 5, which needs to be tucked first. Be careful all quite delicate.
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Löse alle vier Antennenkabel aus den Kanälen in der AirPort/Bluetooth Halterung.
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Fädle das Kamerakabel aus seinem Kanal in der AirPort/Bluetooth Halterung.
Long antenna cable was a little tricky, harder to de-route...slide to narrow part of cable, and then lift out from under the tab
Great tip. Really helped cable removal.
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Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die AirPort/Bluetooth Einheit am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:
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Eine 8,6 mm Schraube
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Eine 3,9 mm Schraube
I want to know Lot No. of " 3.9 mm Phillips screw" Step 9.
That was broken... :( Is there anyone who can help me?
the same problem, do you know which size the screw is??
Looking for replacement screws for the Airport/Bluetooth module. The head stripped and I was able to successfully remove the damaged screw but now I need a replacement. If I could get the part number for the screws I could probably order it. It's the screw on the right in step 9.
MacGyver, how did you finally remove that screw? Same problem here.
Heinz -
Also curious. Both screws are stripped on mine.
Bumping this. I need to know the screw sizes too.
Can i replace a faulty 2011 15" screen with the same one from a 2010 15" model with the same resolution?
Are they interchangeable?
It is possible, yes.
I’ve used a J00 (JIS00) Screw Driver Bit from the iFixIt Set and it works for me. You have to put pressure from the top of the screw driver while screwing.
I stripped out the 3.9mm Phillips screw yesterday; tried the rubber band trick without success. Ended up taking a 1/16” drill bit and drilling just through the top of the head of the screw (head popped off) allowing the bracket to come out. I left the body of the screw in the post; upgraded my card to 802.11ac, and the upgrade doesn’t utilize the bracket.
If I really wanted to, I can grab the exposed portion of the screw body with some vice grips and rotate it out…
Hi Yoron, I also want to make this upgrade, can you give me details? Thanks!
Dragos G -
What is the rubber band trick?
The screw extracting pliers hkitago points to look good - but in my computer the head of the screw on the right of the diagram is recessed in the frame of the wifi/bluetooth assembly, so I figure I would not be able to get a grip on the head of the screw with these pliers, right?
So far I have "successfully" )-: stripped the head of the screw on the right of the diagram (above, step 9), as many others appear to have done, but not dared to proceed any further until I figured out how to remove that screw without breaking the frame of the wifi/bluetooth assembly or anything else?
How did you solve this problem?
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Entferne die AirPort/Bluetooth Einheit vom oberen Gehäuse. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.
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Entferne die 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche den Halter des Antennen/Kamerakabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt.
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Entferne den Halter des Antennen/Kamerakabels vom oberen Gehäuse.
This screw stripped on me (I got lucky on the previous step before this). I was able to carefully drill into it with a tiny drill bit until the head popped off. Then I took my scissor clamps and unscrewed the rest of it. Can someone point me to where I can find this replacement screw?
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Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, welche die rechte Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.
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Fasse die Plastikzuglasche am Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels an und kippe sie nach oben über den Stecker in Richtung der Seite am Computer mit der Gleichstromversorgung (DC-in).
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Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade zurück (nicht hoch) aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (following step) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important). Those are REALLY flimsy (i just broke one without being brutal and believe me you don't want to change it).
I Concurr with Bonachera. I almost damaged the pins in the connector trying to twist it into position. The cable retainer holds it in tight and prevents the delicate maneuvering while reinserting the LCD cable. The pins are easily bent and broken. There is a delicate, grey, plastic thin frame holding all the pins neatly in place. After you have carefully reinserted and locked down the cable. then attach the cable retainer.
So i was fixing y dc port and i think i well, messed upon his part and need nwo toget the replacement cable but it looks like i wll have to replace the entire dispay?
its booting up instantly a white screen with nothing but loud fans, this part is the only thing i can find any anomaly on the macbook.
so I have to replace the entire display?
Ich möchte hier den Hinweis von Bonachera noch einmal auf Deutsch hervorheben. Auch ich empfehle dringend, den nächsten Schritt 14 VOR Schritt 13 durchzuführen! Man kann dadurch sehr viel leichter das Displaydatenkabel abklemmen und wieder einstecken.
I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (following step) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important)
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Entferne die 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche den Halter des Displaydatenkabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt.
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Entferne den Halter des Displaydatenkabels vom oberen Gehäuse.
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Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, welche die linke Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.
the connector on mine is stuck, and when I was pulling it back I pulled the pully part out, but not the video cable. how do i get the video cable out now?
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Öffne das MacBook Pro so, dass das Display rechtwinklig zum oberen Gehäuse steht.
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Stelle das geöffnete Gerät wie gezeigt auf den Tisch.
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Halte Display und oberes Gehäuse mit der linken Hand zusammen. Drehe dann die verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube aus der oberen Displayhalterung.
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Drehe die letzte verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube, die das Display noch am oberen Gehäuse befestigt, heraus.
I found this to be awkward. The second time I did the job (I accidentally re-installed the broken display the first time —- dumb, just because you have a Ph.D. doesn’t mean you’re competent) I followed the instructions at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCT-CldP... starting about 2:30 and hung the display over the edge of my worktable … made it easy.
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Fasse das obere Gehäuseteil mit der rechten Hand an und drehe es leicht in Richtung Oberkante des Displays. Dadurch kommt die obere Displayhalterung vom Gehäuse frei.
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Drehe das Display leicht weg vom Gehäuse.
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Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom oberen Gehäuseteil, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Halterungen oder Kabel verfangen.
I had some issues with reassembly which the guide didn't warn me about:
1) a tiny metal bracket holding one of the airport connector cables (visible in step 12, just underneath the leftmost torx screw) got caught underneath the hinge, partially blocking the hole for the leftmost screw - I had to remove the display again.
2) When I completed the reassembly, I realised the screen and the body of the notebook were subtly misaligned (1-2mm), which caused a slight clash on opening the lid and a poor fit for the lower case. I had to go back and loosen the six torx screws to reposition.
I had to swap a screen with another MBP. And this guide worked wonderful. Thanx iFixit!!
This guide is good except for the final instruction of: “To reassemble your device do these steps in reverse order.” That is obvious. But it is also somewhat negligent to not include the reassembly steps because there are loose parts that are too easy to place or orient incorrectly during reassembly. The part in step 11 and the same part (other side) in step 14 is the part easiest to orient backwards or to align the screw to the wrong hole. I think replacement instructions like this set of instructions are titled incorrectly and should be titled “disassembly instructions" if they dont include any guidance on reassembly. Pay close attention to steps 11 and 14 during reassembly. Look at how the part is oriented and exactly where it is placed.
Are there any illustrations for swapping out the antenna card please?
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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2 Kommentare
Hello there
Half a cup of water fell on my MacBook Pro and I tried to quickly dry it out of the water, and I turned on the laptop after more than four hours, but the screen did not work. There are graphics on the screen, but the lighting does not work. Today I changed the screen, but the problem still persists. The lighting of the keys is on, but the lighting of the screen does not work. So please could you help me?
Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.
Bizarre much?
Will - Antwort
It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)
Andrew Janke -
I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!
xtophr -
I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.
leonie - Antwort
Great advise! Love it! :)
Ririds -
I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.
Now I use these:
http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...
The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.
Richard Sato -
I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.
Roscoe -
I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.
jelimoore -
Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.
maccentric -
I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.
Nils -
@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.
Roger - Antwort
Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.
So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.
wresnick - Antwort
Hi,
Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.
H Stahl -
MacBookPro8,2
Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB
Mountain Lion
May someone help me?
I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)
Piero - Antwort
To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually
1982sketcher -
Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!
- zerø K
zeroK - Antwort
a video of these steps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS9is40C...
julie56 - Antwort
These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.
Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.
Thanks!
Marcos - Antwort
During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed
kusi - Antwort
There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.
Print the repair guide.
Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.
When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.
You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.
Same thing with any part you remove.
splashzoneent - Antwort
Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!
Tommy Kedar -
Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!
nclarke36 -
Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.
It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...
SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .
SOME TRICKS -
1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.
2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.
3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.
cheers- Durango CO!
Dgodrummer - Antwort
Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...
kevicoll409 - Antwort
The link above is no longer available.
Kristina Graham -
I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.
Pete Banks - Antwort
The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!
jsandersonq - Antwort
This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.
iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?
Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.
Norman Gray -
(The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)
Norman Gray -
You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.
Steven Wymor -
To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.
Kristina Graham - Antwort
If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.
Alan Waller - Antwort
There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.
Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.
Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.
Alan Waller - Antwort
The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.
Martin Mejia -
After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com
Ian Black - Antwort