Einleitung
Dies ist der Ausgangspunkt jeder Reparatur deines MacBook Pro. Du brauchst einen Pentalobe P5 Schraubendreher, um das untere Gehäuse zu entfernen und in das Gerät zu gelangen.
Entlade vor der Reparatur aus Sicherheitsgründen den Akku. Ein geladener Lithium-Ion Akku kann sich entzünden, wenn er versehentlich beschädigt wird.
Was du brauchst
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Schalte deinen Mac ein und starte Terminal.
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Kopiere den folgenden Befehl und füge ihn im Terminal ein (oder tippe ihn exakt so ein):
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Drücke die Eingabetaste [return]. Wenn du dazu aufgefordert wirst, gib dein Administratorpasswort ein und drücke erneut [return]. Hinweis: die Return-Taste kann auch mit ⏎ oder "enter" gekennzeichnet sein.
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Mit einem Pentalobe P5 Schraubendreher kannst du die sechs Schrauben entfernen, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil befestigt ist:
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Zwei 6,2 mm Schrauben
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Zwei 5,3 mm Schrauben
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Zwei 3,4 mm Schrauben
Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.
I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.
Finished the repair last week. Some key comments that helped me:
- Step 12, Robert
- Step 13, MikeG1
- Step 13, Rick Jaffe (take a photo when disassembling)
Also added some own comments on Steps 15, 18, 22
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Drücke einen Saugheber vorne mittig auf das Gehäuseunterteil des MacBook Pro.
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Hebe den Saugheber an, damit zwischen dem Gehäuseunterteil und dem Rahmen ein kleiner Spalt entsteht.
To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.
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Führe eine Ecke eines Plektrums in diesen Spalt ein.
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Ziehe das Plektrum um die nächstgelegene Ecke und bis zur Hälfte der Seite des Gehäuses.
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Wiederhole den vorigen Schritt auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite, indem du das Plektrum unter das Gehäuseunterteil steckst und entlang der Seite nach oben führst, bis der zweite Clip gelöst ist.
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Stecke das Plektrum jetzt nochmal unter den vorderen Rand des Gehäuseunterteil, bei einem der beiden mittleren Schraubenlöcher.
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Drehe das Plektrum kräftig, damit der dritte Clip gelöst wird, mit dem das Gehäuseunterteil am Rahmen befestigt ist.
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Wiederhole diesen Vorgang bei dem anderen mittleren Schraubenloch und löse auch den vierten Clip.
My 3rd and 4th clips released simultaneously with clip 1 and 2.
Therefore I was looking to do something which had already been accomplished.
yeah be sure not to bend those clips by the display bottom. You pull towards yourself to get it off
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Ziehe das Gehäuseunterteil kräftig nach vorne (weg von den Scharnieren), um dadurch den letzten Clip zu lösen, der das Gehäuseunterteil noch fixiert.
Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.
This helped me. It needed more force than what I expected. Basically grab the corner with 6.2mm screw with one hand and the cover of that same corner with the other. Then pull the cover and push the laptop. Careful, it pops off with force!
I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.
This step really through me through a loop. My last two MBP were a 2011 and 2013 and on those the bottom just lifted off when you removed the screws. The clips and this sliding lock design added in the 2017 model was frustrating the first time. I was following a youtube video first and he did not explain the sliding part at all. I should have come here first, this guide explains it pretty well. The second time I opened my 2017, I kept an “opening pick” between the bottom panel and the body on each side, and used my two smallest screwdrivers as levers in both “front” corner screw holes. Used the same method without the picks to put it back together at the end. Wayyy easier that trying to grip the panel or laptop body. Just make sure the screwdrivers/pins that you’re using as levers are small enough to be loose in the screw holes and have room to move
I used a pick underneath one of the back corners and nudge it (push down and towards the front - to get it off the hinge). This will make it easier to do the same for the other corner. The lower case will move off the middle plastic L-clips (which you will see after you inspect it.) Cheers! =)
I have found that your iFixit blue pry tool is excellent at giving me leverage to slide the bottom case forward to release it from the internal clips.
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Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.
I used the green prying tool in the air gap at the rear to nudge the bottom forward.
That is far easier and more reliable.
David. I agree. I've found the blue iFixit prying tool most helpful. I place it with the curve of the tool around the hinge and move the bottom case towards the front to release it from the slide-in clips. I consider myself to have pretty good grip strength but I have had some bottom cases that just wouldn't budge until I used this method. Scott The Mac Doctor
Like Dave and "themacdoctor" said, this job is MUCH easier if you use a spudger or similar tool to gently push the cover away from the air gap, at the rear of the laptop. Once you do this, you've loosened clips that are on the inside of the bottom case. This is much easier than tugging on the case itself.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Bringe deinen Elektromüll zu einem zugelassenen Entsorger.
Hat die Reparatur nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Auf unserem Antworten-Forum kannst du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche finden.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Bringe deinen Elektromüll zu einem zugelassenen Entsorger.
Hat die Reparatur nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Auf unserem Antworten-Forum kannst du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche finden.
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3 Kommentare
Easy to follow instructions. The cover is tight to pull forwards.
Yes via OWC (MacSales) or maybe here at iFixit, you CAN upgrade the HD, but the RAM is soldered on-board.
KEEP your Apple HD in case you ever have to get Apple to repair it. They SUCK about have 3rd party components in their systems and will want to REPLACE it for $$$
weebeast -
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Antwort
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Antwort
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Antwort
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Antwort
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Antwort
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Antwort
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Antwort
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Antwort
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Antwort
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Antwort
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Antwort
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Antwort
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Antwort
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Antwort
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Antwort
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Antwort
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Antwort
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Antwort
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Antwort
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Antwort
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Antwort
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Antwort
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Antwort
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Antwort
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Antwort
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -