Einleitung
Grundständige Anleitung zum ordnungsgemäßen Trennen des Akkus vor einer Reparatur.
Was du brauchst
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Mit einem Pentalobe P5 Schraubendreher kannst du die sechs Schrauben entfernen, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil befestigt ist:
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Zwei 6,2 mm Schrauben
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Zwei 5,3 mm Schrauben
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Zwei 3,4 mm Schrauben
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Drücke einen Saugheber vorne mittig auf das Gehäuseunterteil des MacBook Pro.
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Hebe den Saugheber an, damit zwischen dem Gehäuseunterteil und dem Rahmen ein kleiner Spalt entsteht.
To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.
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Führe eine Ecke eines Plektrums in diesen Spalt ein.
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Ziehe das Plektrum um die nächstgelegene Ecke und bis zur Hälfte der Seite des Gehäuses.
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Wiederhole den vorigen Schritt auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite, indem du das Plektrum unter das Gehäuseunterteil steckst und entlang der Seite nach oben führst, bis der zweite Clip gelöst ist.
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Stecke das Plektrum jetzt nochmal unter den vorderen Rand des Gehäuseunterteil, bei einem der beiden mittleren Schraubenlöcher.
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Drehe das Plektrum kräftig, damit der dritte Clip gelöst wird, mit dem das Gehäuseunterteil am Rahmen befestigt ist.
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Wiederhole diesen Vorgang bei dem anderen mittleren Schraubenloch und löse auch den vierten Clip.
My 3rd and 4th clips released simultaneously with clip 1 and 2.
Therefore I was looking to do something which had already been accomplished.
yeah be sure not to bend those clips by the display bottom. You pull towards yourself to get it off
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Ziehe das Gehäuseunterteil kräftig nach vorne (weg von den Scharnieren), um dadurch den letzten Clip zu lösen, der das Gehäuseunterteil noch fixiert.
Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.
This helped me. It needed more force than what I expected. Basically grab the corner with 6.2mm screw with one hand and the cover of that same corner with the other. Then pull the cover and push the laptop. Careful, it pops off with force!
I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.
This step really through me through a loop. My last two MBP were a 2011 and 2013 and on those the bottom just lifted off when you removed the screws. The clips and this sliding lock design added in the 2017 model was frustrating the first time. I was following a youtube video first and he did not explain the sliding part at all. I should have come here first, this guide explains it pretty well. The second time I opened my 2017, I kept an “opening pick” between the bottom panel and the body on each side, and used my two smallest screwdrivers as levers in both “front” corner screw holes. Used the same method without the picks to put it back together at the end. Wayyy easier that trying to grip the panel or laptop body. Just make sure the screwdrivers/pins that you’re using as levers are small enough to be loose in the screw holes and have room to move
I used a pick underneath one of the back corners and nudge it (push down and towards the front - to get it off the hinge). This will make it easier to do the same for the other corner. The lower case will move off the middle plastic L-clips (which you will see after you inspect it.) Cheers! =)
I have found that your iFixit blue pry tool is excellent at giving me leverage to slide the bottom case forward to release it from the internal clips.
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Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.
I used the green prying tool in the air gap at the rear to nudge the bottom forward.
That is far easier and more reliable.
David. I agree. I've found the blue iFixit prying tool most helpful. I place it with the curve of the tool around the hinge and move the bottom case towards the front to release it from the slide-in clips. I consider myself to have pretty good grip strength but I have had some bottom cases that just wouldn't budge until I used this method. Scott The Mac Doctor
Like Dave and "themacdoctor" said, this job is MUCH easier if you use a spudger or similar tool to gently push the cover away from the air gap, at the rear of the laptop. Once you do this, you've loosened clips that are on the inside of the bottom case. This is much easier than tugging on the case itself.
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Ziehe vorsichtig das große Stück Klebeband ab, das den Akkustecker am Rand des Logic Boards ganz nah am Akku abdeckt.
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Entferne das Klebeband
once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.
The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.
The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.
Mark one of the tape’s edges and, upon removal, stick it down with the same orientation. The first time I was inside the MacBook Pro (to upgrade the SSD) I failed to do this, and spent almost 30 minutes trying to get it back like it had been. Making a photo also helps.
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Ziehe vorsichtig das kleine Stück Klebeband ab, mit dem der Stecker des Datenkabels an der Akkuplatine abgedeckt ist.
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Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du jetzt die kleine schwarze Verriegelung umklappen, mit der das Kabel im Anschluss gesichert ist.
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Schiebe das Datenkabel der Akkuplatine, aus seinem Anschluss heraus und trenne es ab.
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Schiebe es parallel zum Logic Board in Richtung des Kabels.
The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.
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Biege das Datenkabel der Akkuplatine zurück, so dass es nicht mehr im Weg ist.
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Wenn du den Akku austauschen willst, musst du wahrscheinlich dieses Kabel komplett entfernen und auf den neuen Akku übertragen. Trenne beide Kabelenden ab und entferne das Kabel behutsam. Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass du das Kabel nicht mit der Unterseite nach oben oder rückwärts einbaust - beachte die Einbaurichtung in den Bildern.
The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.
I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!
Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.
In step 13, notice the amount of the data cable that sticks out of the connector. When moving this cable to the new battery, it is difficult to tell how far to push the cable into the connector or when it is fully inserted because the cable is so bendable.
AMEN!! This was the hardest part of the ENTIRE process! Hard to know when the small end of the cable was “fully” inserted. Cable is SOOOOO delicate!
my old battery was working but could not hold a charge very long so I replaced the battery and now my mac does not recognize the new battery. Thought it was a bad battery at first but I purchased a new batter and still the same problem, My mac will work off power outlet but does not register it has a battery at all now. I tried putting my old battery back on but i damaged the very small clip when i slid out the flex cable so its gone now. Could this cable be at fault? I don/t know what else it could be, i only messed with the battery.
I have this same problem! Did you figure out what the issue was? Do I need a new flex cable?
I am having the same issue as Leo. After install. Is there a way to identify the fault?
Although the rest of fixit manual on this is excellent, this step is woefully lacking and the fact that the replace “kit” doesn’t have the Battery Board Data cable included makes the replacement kit significantly lacking (especially compared to other kits and instructions I’ve used before from them)
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Nimm einen T5 Torx-Schraubendreher und entferne die 3,7 mm Flachkopfschraube vom Stecker der Stromversorgung am Akku.
When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.
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Hebe jetzt den Stecker am Akkuanschluss mit einem Spudger vorsichtig an und trenne dadurch den Akku ab.
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Hebe den Stecker so hoch an, dass er auch wirklich vom Anschluss getrennt bleibt. Wenn es im Laufe der Reparatur versehentlich zu einem Kontakt kommt, könnte dein MacBook Pro dadurch beschädigt werden.
On disassembly note the position of the connector before you lift. It has two gold-plated connections on the underside. On reassembly these need to make contact with the matching battery board connectors. Bending the connector out of the way deformed it a bit, and on reassembly I could see that the connectors didn't align well with the board's connectors. I needed to adjust the battery board position to the left a bit by loosening the 3.1 mm screws in step 23. Possibly this could be the reason why some people report that new battery is not detected.
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Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.
Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.
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Aaron Dalziel - Antwort
I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.
tommy404 - Antwort
Finished the repair last week. Some key comments that helped me:
- Step 12, Robert
- Step 13, MikeG1
- Step 13, Rick Jaffe (take a photo when disassembling)
Also added some own comments on Steps 15, 18, 22
Per Haglund - Antwort