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MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen

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  1. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen, Auto Boot deaktivieren: Schritt 1, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen, Auto Boot deaktivieren: Schritt 1, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen, Auto Boot deaktivieren: Schritt 1, Bild 3 von 3
    • Zuallererst musst du die automatische Startfunktion (Auto Boot) deines Macs deaktivieren. Auto Boot schaltet deinen Mac ein, wenn du ihn aufklappst, was versehentlich beim Auseinanderbau passieren kann. Benutze diese Anleitung oder befolge die anschließende Kurzversion zum Deaktivieren von Auto Boot. Dieser Befehl funktioniert eventuell nicht auf allen Macs.

    • Schalte deinen Mac ein und starte Terminal.

    • Kopiere den folgenden Befehl und füge ihn im Terminal ein (oder tippe ihn exakt so ein):

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Drücke die Eingabetaste [return]. Wenn du dazu aufgefordert wirst, gib dein Administratorpasswort ein und drücke erneut [return]. Hinweis: die Return-Taste kann auch mit ⏎ oder "enter" gekennzeichnet sein.

    • Nun kannst du deinen Mac sicher herunterfahren und das untere Gehäuse öffnen, ohne dass er sich versehentlich einschaltet.

    • Nachdem deine Reparatur zu Ende ist und dein Gerät wieder erfolgreich zusammengebaut ist, musst du Auto Boot mit folgendem Befehl wieder aktivieren:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF - Antwort

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Antwort

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Antwort

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Antwort

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Antwort

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Antwort

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Antwort

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Antwort

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Antwort

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Antwort

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Antwort

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Antwort

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Antwort

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Antwort

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Antwort

    I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?

    peter sussex -

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Antwort

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Antwort

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Antwort

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Antwort

    Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

    maël muzelet - Antwort

    Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

    Claire Miesch -

    Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

    Tom Markham - Antwort

    If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

    arichard2401 - Antwort

    For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.

    Nicholas R Licato - Antwort

    Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
    I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).

    Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.

    Cédric Bontems - Antwort

    After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.

    Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.

    No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.

    Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.

    webrockers - Antwort

    I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.

    I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.

    webrockers -

  2. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen, Gehäuseunterteil: Schritt 2, Bild 1 von 1
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    Kaufen
    • Bevor du dein MacBook Pro auseinandernimmst, ziehe den Stecker und fahre es herunter. Schließe das Display und lege das Gerät mit der Unterseite nach oben auf eine weiche Oberfläche.

    • Mit einem Pentalobe P5 Schraubendreher kannst du die sechs Schrauben entfernen, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 6,2 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 5,3 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 3,4 mm Schrauben

    • Achte während der ganzen Reparatur auf jede einzelne Schraube und sorge dafür, dass sie genau wieder an ihre alte Stelle zurück kommt, damit kein weiterer Schaden entsteht.

    Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.

    Aaron Dalziel - Antwort

    I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.

    tommy404 - Antwort

    Finished the repair last week. Some key comments that helped me:

    - Step 12, Robert

    - Step 13, MikeG1

    - Step 13, Rick Jaffe (take a photo when disassembling)

    Also added some own comments on Steps 15, 18, 22

    Per Haglund - Antwort

  3. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 3, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 3, Bild 2 von 2
    • Drücke einen Saugheber vorne mittig auf das Gehäuseunterteil des MacBook Pro.

    • Hebe den Saugheber an, damit zwischen dem Gehäuseunterteil und dem Rahmen ein kleiner Spalt entsteht.

    To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.

    olivia drinkwine - Antwort

  4. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 4, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 4, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 4, Bild 3 von 3
    • Führe eine Ecke eines Plektrums in diesen Spalt ein.

    • Ziehe das Plektrum um die nächstgelegene Ecke und bis zur Hälfte der Seite des Gehäuses.

    • Dadurch wird der erste von den vier versteckten Clips gelöst, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil am Rahmen befestigt ist. Du solltest hören und fühlen können, wie der Clip sich löst.

  5. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 5, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 5, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 5, Bild 3 von 3
    • Wiederhole den vorigen Schritt auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite, indem du das Plektrum unter das Gehäuseunterteil steckst und entlang der Seite nach oben führst, bis der zweite Clip gelöst ist.

  6. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 6, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 6, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 6, Bild 3 von 3
    • Stecke das Plektrum jetzt nochmal unter den vorderen Rand des Gehäuseunterteil, bei einem der beiden mittleren Schraubenlöcher.

    • Drehe das Plektrum kräftig, damit der dritte Clip gelöst wird, mit dem das Gehäuseunterteil am Rahmen befestigt ist.

    • Wiederhole diesen Vorgang bei dem anderen mittleren Schraubenloch und löse auch den vierten Clip.

    My 3rd and 4th clips released simultaneously with clip 1 and 2.

    Therefore I was looking to do something which had already been accomplished.

    David Hutzler - Antwort

    yeah be sure not to bend those clips by the display bottom. You pull towards yourself to get it off

    Grant Tyler - Antwort

  7. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 7, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 7, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 7, Bild 3 von 3
    • Ziehe das Gehäuseunterteil kräftig nach vorne (weg von den Scharnieren), um dadurch den letzten Clip zu lösen, der das Gehäuseunterteil noch fixiert.

    • Es ist vielleicht hilfreich, erst an einer Ecke zu ziehen und dann an der anderen.

    • Möglicherweise brauchst du dafür ziemlich viel Kraft.

    Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.

    Andrew Gordon - Antwort

    This helped me. It needed more force than what I expected. Basically grab the corner with 6.2mm screw with one hand and the cover of that same corner with the other. Then pull the cover and push the laptop. Careful, it pops off with force!

    Javier De la Garza -

    I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.

    Josh Brown - Antwort

    This step really through me through a loop. My last two MBP were a 2011 and 2013 and on those the bottom just lifted off when you removed the screws. The clips and this sliding lock design added in the 2017 model was frustrating the first time. I was following a youtube video first and he did not explain the sliding part at all. I should have come here first, this guide explains it pretty well. The second time I opened my 2017, I kept an “opening pick” between the bottom panel and the body on each side, and used my two smallest screwdrivers as levers in both “front” corner screw holes. Used the same method without the picks to put it back together at the end. Wayyy easier that trying to grip the panel or laptop body. Just make sure the screwdrivers/pins that you’re using as levers are small enough to be loose in the screw holes and have room to move

    Jambu Atchison - Antwort

    I used a pick underneath one of the back corners and nudge it (push down and towards the front - to get it off the hinge). This will make it easier to do the same for the other corner. The lower case will move off the middle plastic L-clips (which you will see after you inspect it.) Cheers! =)

    LSD - Antwort

    I have found that your iFixit blue pry tool is excellent at giving me leverage to slide the bottom case forward to release it from the internal clips.

    themacdoctor - Antwort

    the panel is sharp on the edges, sharp enough for you to cut yourself when pulling on it. i learned the hard way, just make sure your fingers are in a good spot before pulling

    Micah P - Antwort

  8. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 8, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.

    I used the green prying tool in the air gap at the rear to nudge the bottom forward.

    That is far easier and more reliable.

    David Hutzler - Antwort

    David. I agree. I've found the blue iFixit prying tool most helpful. I place it with the curve of the tool around the hinge and move the bottom case towards the front to release it from the slide-in clips. I consider myself to have pretty good grip strength but I have had some bottom cases that just wouldn't budge until I used this method. Scott The Mac Doctor 

    themacdoctor - Antwort

    Like Dave and "themacdoctor" said, this job is MUCH easier if you use a spudger or similar tool to gently push the cover away from the air gap, at the rear of the laptop. Once you do this, you've loosened clips that are on the inside of the bottom case. This is much easier than tugging on the case itself.

    ECJohansen - Antwort

  9. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen, Akku Anschluss: Schritt 9, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen, Akku Anschluss: Schritt 9, Bild 2 von 2
    • Ziehe vorsichtig das große Stück Klebeband ab, das den Akkustecker am Rand des Logic Boards ganz nah am Akku abdeckt.

    • Entferne das Klebeband

    once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.

    Anton Monakhov - Antwort

    The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.

    Tarun Thiruma - Antwort

    The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.

    Rick Jaffe - Antwort

    Be very careful to ensure you're pulling the large rectangular patch of tape and NOT the little black tab on the data cable that is below. At first glance they look like they're all one piece. I made this mistake and think that I ruined that cable.

    Brendan C - Antwort

    Mark one of the tape’s edges and, upon removal, stick it down with the same orientation. The first time I was inside the MacBook Pro (to upgrade the SSD) I failed to do this, and spent almost 30 minutes trying to get it back like it had been. Making a photo also helps.

    anasazi4st - Antwort

  10. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 10, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 10, Bild 2 von 2
    • Ziehe vorsichtig das kleine Stück Klebeband ab, mit dem der Stecker des Datenkabels an der Akkuplatine abgedeckt ist.

    • Das Klebeband ist in das Flachbandkabel integriert und lässt sich nicht vollständig lösen. Du kannst es einfach so weit zurückziehen, damit du an den Stecker herankommst.

    There is no replacement for this cable in the new battery, is this normal?

    Marin dcv - Antwort

    the replacement battery doesn't supply the small cable. It needs only be disconnected fro one end as in the pictures.

    robert - Antwort

    Well the tape may not supposed to be able to separate but with gentle force, my tape just pulled right off leaving the connector still attached.

    John M - Antwort

  11. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 11, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 11, Bild 2 von 2
    • Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du jetzt die kleine schwarze Verriegelung umklappen, mit der das Kabel im Anschluss gesichert ist.

    If this ribbon comes off on both ends, how do you re-attach

    Gord Alder - Antwort

  12. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 12, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 12, Bild 2 von 2
    • Schiebe das Datenkabel der Akkuplatine, aus seinem Anschluss heraus und trenne es ab.

    • Schiebe es parallel zum Logic Board in Richtung des Kabels.

    the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

    tarex7 - Antwort

    The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.

    Rick Jaffe - Antwort

    Same problem with the tape coming loose and the cable not coming out. Go further back along the cable and pull gently on the cable with your fingers and the connector will come out easily.

    Robert - Antwort

  13. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 13, Bild 1 von 1
    • Biege das Datenkabel der Akkuplatine zurück, so dass es nicht mehr im Weg ist.

    • Wenn du den Akku austauschen willst, musst du wahrscheinlich dieses Kabel komplett entfernen und auf den neuen Akku übertragen. Trenne beide Kabelenden ab und entferne das Kabel behutsam. Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass du das Kabel nicht mit der Unterseite nach oben oder rückwärts einbaust - beachte die Einbaurichtung in den Bildern.

    The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.

    MikeG1 - Antwort

    I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!

    Macrepair SF - Antwort

    Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.

    Marc - Antwort

    In step 13, notice the amount of the data cable that sticks out of the connector. When moving this cable to the new battery, it is difficult to tell how far to push the cable into the connector or when it is fully inserted because the cable is so bendable.

    Rick Jaffe - Antwort

    AMEN!! This was the hardest part of the ENTIRE process! Hard to know when the small end of the cable was “fully” inserted. Cable is SOOOOO delicate!

    Kevin McAda -

    If your laptop is showing the x where the battery icon is, this cable is at fault. This cable is referred to as the BMU (Battery Management Unit) flex cable. If it’s damaged, replacing it should solve your issue.

    Josh M - Antwort

    my old battery was working but could not hold a charge very long so I replaced the battery and now my mac does not recognize the new battery. Thought it was a bad battery at first but I purchased a new batter and still the same problem, My mac will work off power outlet but does not register it has a battery at all now. I tried putting my old battery back on but i damaged the very small clip when i slid out the flex cable so its gone now. Could this cable be at fault? I don/t know what else it could be, i only messed with the battery.

    Leo Ruiz - Antwort

    I have this same problem! Did you figure out what the issue was? Do I need a new flex cable?

    Jessica Mouland -

    I am having the same issue as Leo. After install. Is there a way to identify the fault?

    Nathan Jelinek - Antwort

    Although the rest of fixit manual on this is excellent, this step is woefully lacking and the fact that the replace “kit” doesn’t have the Battery Board Data cable included makes the replacement kit significantly lacking (especially compared to other kits and instructions I’ve used before from them)

    zandar10 - Antwort

  14. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 14, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 14, Bild 2 von 2
    • Nimm einen T5 Torx-Schraubendreher und entferne die 3,7 mm Flachkopfschraube vom Stecker der Stromversorgung am Akku.

    When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

    tarex7 - Antwort

  15. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 15, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 15, Bild 2 von 2
    • Hebe jetzt den Stecker am Akkuanschluss mit einem Spudger vorsichtig an und trenne dadurch den Akku ab.

    • Hebe den Stecker so hoch an, dass er auch wirklich vom Anschluss getrennt bleibt. Wenn es im Laufe der Reparatur versehentlich zu einem Kontakt kommt, könnte dein MacBook Pro dadurch beschädigt werden.

    On disassembly note the position of the connector before you lift. It has two gold-plated connections on the underside. On reassembly these need to make contact with the matching battery board connectors. Bending the connector out of the way deformed it a bit, and on reassembly I could see that the connectors didn't align well with the board's connectors. I needed to adjust the battery board position to the left a bit by loosening the 3.1 mm screws in step 23. Possibly this could be the reason why some people report that new battery is not detected.

    Per Haglund - Antwort

  16. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen, Trackpad (grundständige Anleitung): Schritt 16, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die beiden 2,1 mm Torx T5 Schrauben, mit denen die Halterung am Stecker des Trackpadkabels befestigt ist.

  17. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 17, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die Halterung des Steckers am Trackpadkabel mit einer Pinzette.

  18. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 18, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 18, Bild 2 von 2
    • Hebe mit dem Spudger den Stecker am Trackpad-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig gerade vom Logic Board hoch und trenne das Flachbandkabel ab.

  19. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 19, Bild 1 von 1
    • Erwärme einen iOpener und lege ihn etwa eine Minute lang auf das Trackpad-Flachbandkabel. Dadurch wird der Kleber aufgeweicht, mit dem das Flachbandkabel oben am Akku befestigt ist.

    • Wenn du keinen iOpener hast, kannst du das Kabel auch mit einem Haartrockner erwärmen. Das Kabel sollte warm sein, aber nicht so heiß, dass du es nicht mehr anfassen kannst. Überhitze den Akku auf keinen Fall.

  20. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 20, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 20, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 20, Bild 3 von 3
    • Ziehe das Trackpad-Flachbandkabel behutsam vom Akku ab und schiebe es aus dem Weg.

    • Knicke oder zerreiße das Kabel nicht.

  21. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 21, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die zehn Torx T5 Schrauben, mit denen die Trackpadeinheit befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 4,3 mm Schrauben

    • Acht 5,8 mm Schrauben

  22. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 22, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 22, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 22, Bild 3 von 3
    • Entferne die Trackpadeinheit.

    • Klappe das Display ein wenig auf, um an das Trackpad zu gelangen.

    • Führe das Trackpad-Flachbandkabel sorgfältig durch die Öffnung im Rahmen des MacBook Pro, ohne dass es sich verhakt.

    • Verliere die sechs kleinen Unterlegscheiben (zwei runde und vier eckige), die sich auf der Unterseite des Trackpads befinden, nicht.

  23. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen, Akku: Schritt 23, Bild 1 von 1
    • Verwende einen T5 Torx Schraubendreher, um die beiden 3,1 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen das Akku Board befestigt ist.

    • Diese Schrauben liegen unter dem Datenkabel des Akku Boards. Vielleicht musst du das Kabel vorsichtig hin- und herbewegen, um an alle Schrauben heranzukommen.

    • Auf einer der beiden Schraube kann sich ein Aufkleber für die Anzeige von Wasserschäden befinden. Sollte das der Fall sein, entferne ihn mit einer Pinzette und lege ihn zur Seite, bevor du die Schraube entfernst.

    I tried (“Operation”!) to remove this water damage indicator sticker elegantly. Ended up hacking it apart. I think I’ll live.

    weebeast - Antwort

  24. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 24, Bild 1 von 1
    • Das Akku Board ist dauerhaft fest mit dem Akku verbunden. Prüfe, ob genügend Platz vorhanden ist, um es zusammen mit dem Akku herauszunehmen, ohne dabei an anderen Komponenten hängenzubleiben.

    • Setze das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter dem Akku Board an der Seite an, die dem Logic Board am nächsten ist.

    • Hebe das Akku Board um etwa 45° an. Falls nötig kannst du den Akku-Netzstecker aus dem Weg halten, damit das Akku Board mehr Platz hat.

    A ce moment là, il faudrait déconnecter la nappe de données de la carte de la batterie et la mettre de côté

    Giovanni Gervasio - Antwort

    At this point I Jump to step 30 . I do not use the liquid adhesive remover method. I use a silicone rubber kitchen food scooper. The scoop end is a soft, silicone rubber material with a beveled edge. The handle is a hard plastic. This tool I’ve used in about 50 retina battery swaps. No floss, credit cards or metal spatulas for me.. The angle of the ends and the rubber pliability combined with the hard plastic handle is ideal. After a few repairs you will get better at it. Be careful when applying pressure or leveraging to get between battery and base. You don’t want to slip & “overshoot” the scoop end into the logic board. EASY DOES IT…Save yourself the mess of applying the liquid. I can remove a battery in 10 minutes. Here’s the link to this tool that I found in my GF’s kitchen:

    https://www.amazon.com/Tovolo-Silicone-S...

    Macrepair SF - Antwort

    This and the dental floss are great ides that I wish I'd seen before following the method in this guide even though it worked, I think there are better ways.

    Kyle M Brown -

    Amazon says these are no longer available, no idea if or when they will be again.

    anasazi4st - Antwort

    You can order a single scooper from amazon.

    google: Tovolo Mini Scoop and Spread Tool

    etcremer -

  25. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 25, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 25, Bild 2 von 2
    • Der in deinem Kit enthaltene flüssige Klebstoffentferner könnte die Antireflexbeschichtung auf dem Display deines MacBook Pro beeinträchtigen.

    • Lege eine Aluminiumfolie zwischen Display und Tastatur, um dein Display zu schützen. Die Folie sollte während des gesamten Arbeitsprozesses dort bleiben.

    • Zusätzlich solltest du noch ein saugfähiges Tuch direkt unter das Trackpad legen, um überschüssigen Klebertferner aufzusaugen.

  26. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 26, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 26, Bild 2 von 2
    • Dein MacBook Pro ist jetzt gut vorbereitet, nun wird es Zeit, auch dich selbst vorzubereiten.

    • Der iFixit Klebstoffentferner enthält Aceton, welches Haut und Augen reizen kann.

    • Wenn du mit dem Klebstoffentferner arbeitest und ihn aufbringst, solltest du immer deine Augen schützen. (Eine Schutzbrille ist in deinem Kit enthalten).

    • Insbesondere auch wenn du Kontaktlinsen trägst, musst du zusätzlich die Schutzbrille aufsetzen.

    • In deinem Kit sind auch Schutzhandschuhe enthalten. Wenn deine Haut empfindlich ist, solltest du die Handschuhe jetzt anziehen.

    Wenn das Trackpad ausgebaut ist, kann man den alten Akku auch ohne Klebstoffentferner relativ gut auslösen.

    Christian Düll - Antwort

  27. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 27, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 27, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 27, Bild 3 von 3
    • Entferne den schwarzen Gummistopfen von dem Behälter mit dem Klebstoffentferner.

    • Drehe die Verschlusskappe heraus, bevor du die Spitze abschneidest.

    • Dadurch wird die Flasche entsiegelt und der Druck kann sich ausgleichen bevor du die Spitze abschneidest. Wenn du diesen Schritt überspringst, kann der Klebstoffentferner beim Abschneiden der Spitze unerwartet herausspritzen.

    • Benutze eine Schere, um die versiegelte Spitze des Applikators abzuschneiden.

    • Schneide so dicht wie möglich an der schmalen Spitze, sodass du die Menge an Klebstoffentferner besser kontrollieren kannst.

    • Verschließe die Flasche gut, bevor du weitermachst.

    Au moment de ma commande le kit complet avec le dissolvant ifixit n’était pas disponible, mais seulement la batterie sans accéssoires, j’ai utilisé quelques gouttes d’acétone à la place. la battéerie originale s’est décollée sans difficulté à l’aide d’une carte de credit

    Giovanni Gervasio - Antwort

    Can I use isopropyl or ethanol instead?

    Johhnsy Jr. - Antwort

    Petite astuce après une réparation fructueuse : pour simplifier cette étape, munissez vous d’un dissolvant fourni ou non, prenez les élastiques de masques chirurgicaux et imbibez le avec le dissolvant. À l’aide de cures-dents, l’insérer entre le châssis et la batterie puis faire un mouvement d’aller et retour tout en avançant au fur et à mesure que la batterie se décolle. Cette astuce m’a fait gagné beaucoup de temps et elle permet de ne pas endommager la batterie lorsque de son extraction. Plus sur, plus rapide et plus facile !

    A little tip after a successful repair: to simplify this step, take the surgical mask elastic bands and soak them with solvent. Using toothpicks, insert it between the frame and the battery then move back and forth while moving forward as the battery comes off. This trick saved me a lot of time and avoids damaging the battery when removing it. Safer, quicker and easier.

    Matthieu - Antwort

    The glue remover is a mix of Acetone and Isopropyl alcohol I believe.

    Luke Lanza - Antwort

    The adhesive remover they are currently selling does not need to be cut open, it is black and already has a small hole. Check yours before you cut off something you don't need to.

    arichard2401 - Antwort

    A little warning for those of us who don't know a lot about acetone. DO NOT spill any on any finished wood. It will take the finish off of a wood surface faster than you can wipe it off. It won't harm clothes surprisingly, but your hardwood floor or wood table are not going to look great if you spill this on them.

    arichard2401 - Antwort

    I ordered just the battery, and successfully used "Goo Gone" to loosen the adhesive. I found it useful to place the plastic card along the edge of the battery, then dribble the Goo Gone on the card (when runs down the card to the edge of the battery). In my computer the adhesive is in three strips running across the length of the cell, each strip is about 1/4" wide

    Phil Evans - Antwort

  28. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 28, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 28, Bild 2 von 2
    • Trage ein paar Tropfen Klebstoffentferner unter die vordere Kante der Akkuzelle auf, die sich gleich neben dem Lüfter befindet.

    • Eine kleine Menge ist ausreichend. Die kleine Flasche enthält mehr als zweimal soviel Klebstoffentferner wie nötig ist, um alle Akkuzellen zu entfernen.

  29. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 29, Bild 1 von 1
    • Kippe die Vorderkante deines MacBook Pro leicht nach oben, so dass der flüssige Klebstoffentferner unter die Akkuzelle fließt.

    • Warte 2-3 Minuten, damit der Klebstoffentferner einwirken kann, bevor du mit dem nächsten Schritt fortfährst.

  30. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 30, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 30, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 30, Bild 3 von 3
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
    Kaufen
    • Nach 2-3 Minuten kannst du eine Kunststoffkarte unter den Rand der Akkuzelle schieben, unter der du den Klebstoffentferner eingebracht hast.

    • Es könnte hilfreich sein, die Karte etwas zu drehen, damit eine kleine Lücke zwischen der Akkuzelle und dem Gehäuse des MacBook Pro entsteht.

    • Zuviel Klebstoffentferner kann deine Kunststoffkarte beschädigen.

    This was the hardest step for me. You just have to keep at it and add a little more adhesive remover if needed, it will eventually come up.

    Avi Ramu - Antwort

    Agreed, hardest step. “Several drop” was not enough, I had to add more twice, so take your time.

    Just like on the picture, the corner close to the track pad seem to be a weak point, strat pushing the corner of the plastic card there.

    Adrien Bernede - Antwort

    I used a thin plastic kitchen spatula which was easier to slide in under the battery, and cover a wider area than the plastic card.

    tommy404 - Antwort

    There is a metal lip that blocks you from pushing it in. I recommend you start from the corner with the lifted metal part. (top left corner of battery in picture)

    Javier De la Garza - Antwort

    the adhesive is in three 'bands' running parallel to the front of the computer. my method was to insert the card part way, then drip the adhesive onto the card and let it slide down to where the card met the adhesive. this seemed to work best. it seems unlikely that the adhesive will run all the way to the rear adhesive when you apply it from the front.

    Noal Balint - Antwort

  31. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 31, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 31, Bild 2 von 2
    • Arbeite dich vorsichtig mit der Karte weiter vor, um den Kleber, der die Akkuzelle befestigt, abzulösen.

    • Dazu sollte nicht viel Kraft nötig sein - der Klebstoffentferner hat die meiste Arbeit schon getan. Wenn du deine Karte nicht unter die Akkuzelle bekommst, trage nochmal etwas mehr Klebstoffentferner wie oben beschrieben auf, warte 2-3 Minuten und versuche es dann erneut.

    They are RIGHT, let the acetone do the work. It did need more than a few drops, but not much more. Wait 3 min, apply again. Wait 3 min again. Then take the card and aim the point of the card toward the middle of the adhesive. Wiggle wiggle wiggle moderate pressure. It will penetrate the first strip and then work it left and right. Repeat for the next two strips.

    Richard Ness - Antwort

  32. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 32, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 32, Bild 2 von 2
    • Drehe die Karte, um die Akkuzelle abzuheben, bis sie sich vollständig vom Aluminiumgehäuse löst.

    • Versuche jetzt noch nicht, die Akkuzelle ganz zu entfernen - sie ist immer noch mit den anderen Zellen verbunden.

  33. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 33, Bild 1 von 1
    • Lass die Plastikkarte erst mal unter der Akkuzelle stecken.

    • Dadurch wird verhindert, dass die Akkuzelle wieder am Gehäuse festklebt, während du an den anderen Zellen arbeitest.

  34. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 34, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 34, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 34, Bild 3 von 3
    • Wiederhole die vorherigen sechs Schritte, um auch die andere ganz außen gelegene Akkuzelle auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite herauszulösen.

  35. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 35, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 35, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 35, Bild 3 von 3
    • Um die Akkuzelle in der Mitte herauszubekommen, hebe die Hinterkante des MacBook hoch und stütze sie auf einem Schaumstoffblock oder einem Buch ab, so dass der Klebstoffentferner vom Logic Board weg fließt.

    • Trage ein paar Tropfen Klebstoffentferner entlang der hinteren Kante der Akkuzelle auf.

  36. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 36, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 36, Bild 2 von 2
    • Ausschnitte im Aluminiumgehäuse zwischen der mittleren Akkuzelle und dem Trackpad können verhindern, dass der Klebstoffentferner sich unter dem ganzen Akku verteilt.

    • Um das auszugleichen kannst du ein paar weitere Tropfen Klebstoffentferner entlang jeder Seite der mittleren Akkuzelle auftragen.

    • Warte 2-3 Minuten, bevor du mit dem nächsten Schritt fortfährst.

  37. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 37, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 37, Bild 2 von 2
    • Schiebe eine Plastikkarte unter eine der seitlichen Kanten der mittleren Akkuzelle.

    • Versuche dabei, die Karte immer vom Logic Board weg zu halten.

    • Es könnte hilfreich sein, die Karte etwas zu drehen, damit ein kleiner Spalt zwischen der Akkuzelle und und dem Gehäuse des MacBook Pro entsteht.

    I don't see how starting from the side is even possible, it's too steep and the card is not flexible enough.

    I started from the top. To do so, I had to lift the battery control card (step 24) enough to be able to put the power connector (step 15) back below it. That way I could slide the card all the way.

    Because of the way the tutorial describe it, I was conservative on the quantity of remover. That may be why this step was not easy.

    Adrien Bernede - Antwort

  38. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 38, Bild 1 von 1
    • Hebe die Akkuzelle mit der Karte an, bis sie sich vollständig vom Aluminiumgehäuse abhebt.

  39. MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 39, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2016, Funktionstasten) Akku tauschen: Schritt 39, Bild 2 von 2
    • Hebe den Akku an und entferne ihn.

    • Entferne alle alten Klebereste aus dem Gehäuse des MacBook Pro, bevor du einen neuen Akku einsetzt.

    • Mit etwas Glück kannst du jeden einzelnen Klebestreifen langsam mit den Fingern abziehen.

    • Falls das nicht klappt, träufle etwas Klebstoffentferner auf jeden Klebestreifen und lasse ihn 2-3 Minuten einwirken. Dann kannst du die Klebestreifen mit einem Plektrum oder einem anderen geeigneten Werkzeug aus deinem Kit abkratzen. Das ist etwas langwierig, hier hilft nur Geduld!

    • Wische den restlichen Klebstoffentferner ab und lass dein MacBook Pro ein paar Minuten an der Luft trocknen.

    • Beim Ersatzakku sind die Klebestreifen bereits angebracht. Probiere zunächst aus, wie der Akku hineinpasst und achte darauf, ihn genau auszurichten, bevor du die Schutzstreifen vom Kleber abziehst. Anschliessend musst du jede Zelle gut festdrücken. Zusätzliche Folien, die sich nicht auf dem Originalakku befanden, solltest du jetzt entfernen.

    • Kalibriere deinen neu eingebauten Akku: Lade ihn auf 100% auf und lasse ihn noch zwei weitere Stunden laden. Benutze dein Gerät normal bis es sich wegen eines leeren Akkus abschaltet. Achte darauf deine Arbeit rechtzeitig abzuspeichern. Warte dann mindestens 5 Stunden und lade das Laptop dann ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.

    • Wenn dir nach dem Einbau deines neuen Akkus etwas Ungewöhnliches auffällt oder Probleme auftreten, kann es sein, dass du den SMC deines MacBook Pros zurücksetzen musst.

    Hi Jeff,

    Thank you for the great instructions! With a piece of dental floss it goes even better. Also it’s good to explain to shift the back cover out after removing the bolts. At the moment to put in the new batteries it’s the best to tighten the batteryprint first and at last to fix the batteries. Put three pieces of plastic under the batteries to prevent fixing too early to the bottom.

    Frans.

    Frans Beentjes - Antwort

    Thanks for your comment! It was really essential since dropping the battery in the case without its control card being attached could have resulted in the impossibility to connect it.

    Adrien Bernede -

    I had a non-ifixit battery replacement fail due to battery wiring (flat coated copper) touching the sharp edge of the case aluminum. Eventually vibration caused the insulation to wear off and short the middle cell to the case. Failure after a couple weeks.

    Jeremy Hale - Antwort

    Tuto au top.

    J’ai remplacé la batterie de mon MacBook Pro en suivant à la lettre ce Tuto.

    Un grand merci.

    Stephane RUE - Antwort

    Overall good guide. The battery removal was by far the most difficult and time consuming.

    It's important to understand stand that the battery is separate from the mother board so you can get somewhat aggressive when removing the old battery without worrying about damaging it.

    Kyle M Brown - Antwort

    As a general rule do not be rough with a lithium battery unless you like out of control lithium fires. It is best to use plenty of solvent and be as careful as possible while removing the old cells.

    London Kassner -

    Also a good idea to discharge the battery fully before working on it.

    maccentric -

    I'm also one of those that just can't stand the idea of using solvent to do the job. FYI, I used a bent and 'sharpened' plastic card, much like a credit card, to carefully separate the battery from its adhesive. I was even able to get the center section out by working the card in from the sides (mostly from the right side, as I'm right-handed), so I didn't have to remove the trackpad assembly. I figured there are huge risks in however we do these complicated jobs, so I'm more comfortable with the risks associated with my technique than the ones associated with the solvent technique. And the bonus is that I finished in less than an hour!

    I've done enough of these battery replacements now that I'm confident about dealing with the fussy little ribbon cables and their connectors, which is an added bonus when tackling a newer model like this.

    Good luck to all who are taking this on for the first time! Take your time, read all the way through before starting, and be sure to read all the comments throughout!

    jiclark - Antwort

    Can someone clarify the statement "Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%." in this last step"? It does not state this in the directions I received on a small card with the battery replacement, nor does it in the Conclusion below.

    Khalid Krackn - Antwort

    I followed this guide to replace the battery in a Mid 2017 MBP. The original was stuck at 0% even after 3 hours on charge even though the cycle count was 2 digits only.

    I dry tested the replacement battery first. It had 38% charge. I left it plugged in and it reached 100% fine. The next day, I stuck the new battery down and low and behold now the machine won't power up.

    I reconnected the old battery and the machine powers up ok. I tried reseating the connections 3 times with the new battery and it still won't power up. I've tried an SMC reset too. So I'm guessing it's a faulty new battery. Either that, or the rumours that Apple are deliberately locking out non-genuine Apple parts is true.

    Trouble is, this seems to be quite a common scenario with this model.

    Cool_Breeze - Antwort

    I just did a battery replacement and after 3-4, SMC resets, checking all connections inside, etc. I cannot get my laptop to show a battery is even installed. I doubt it is a bad battery but as Cool_Breeze suggests, can anyone confirm this may be an Apple "block"? So frustrating!

    Karen Boutwell - Antwort

    Bonjour, ils indiquent que je n’ai pas de batterie, quoi faire ?

    Merci

    Andrea Zanetti -

    Referring to the messages from Cool_Breeze and Karen.

    Does this battery replacement technique still work or have Apple somehow 'blocked' it?

    Thanks

    we eatbricks - Antwort

    I don't recommend to calibrate the battery at the end and even Apple do not recommend to calibrate since a decade. It seems the battery is already calibrated with 2 cycles already. I followed your calibration tutorial and my new battery lost 6% health statut... Probably because of letting cels at 0% during 5 hours.... It's totally a non sense!!!

    Ben Gd - Antwort

Abschluss

Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Teile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Für eine optimale Leistung solltest du deinen neu eingebauten Akku kalibrieren: Lade ihn auf 100% auf und lasse das Ladegerät mindestens zwei weiter Stunden angeschlossen. Arbeite dann mit dem Gerät, bis es sich wegen eines leeren Akku von selbst abschaltet. Lade das Gerät dann ohne Unterbrechung wieder auf 100% auf.

Bringe deinen Elektromüll zu einem zugelassenen Entsorger.

Hat die Reparatur nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Auf unserem Antworten-Forum kannst du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche finden.

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Jeff Suovanen

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29 Kommentare

Does the replacement battery comes with the same strong adhesive as the original battery?

Surgie - Antwort

I ordered my battery for the 2017 version of the Macbook Pro with function keys from ebay and it didn’t came with a adhesive strip. I am sure you can use your own adhesive strips or double sided tape, as long as you mind the gabs on the aluminum frame,

Serj Nko -

Thanks for the great guide! Can you copy the guide to the Macbook Pro 2017 thread, as it’s exactly the same procedure for the function key version? It might be obvious for some “Pros” but I realized it after some trial and error odyssey.

Serj Nko - Antwort

Hi Jeff,

Thank you for this great work to beat Apple greediness. I followed the exact steps and everything went well, but my battery is not charging nor the status is shown on the bar! I tried restarting and resetting and even restoring and it did not work would that be something you can help me with?

Bashar Khiatah - Antwort

If the old battery still works, try putting it back in, and see if that clears up the problem. If it does, the new battery is defective.

Jeff Suovanen -

i did this one today with just 1 bankcard in 30min time no adhesive loosener needed no head needed…. you don’t even have to remove the mousepad…

i might have to start making my own repair guide….

demeyermike - Antwort

Glad yours was easy! The strength of the adhesive can vary a lot depending on age, heat cycles, how much was applied at the factory, etc. I’ve seen a few that were easy and quite a few that were absolute monsters to remove. Most fall somewhere in between. This guide should have you covered in all cases, but it probably doesn’t hurt to poke and pry a little before you start, in case you lucked out and got an easy one. Just be very careful not to puncture the battery. Thanks for your comment!

Jeff Suovanen -

I can confirm that this guide also works word for word for a 2017 MacBook Pro with function keys. All I would add is that Step 7 requires considerable force!

Jon Worth - Antwort

I did not remove the trackpad or use adhesive remover (Macbook Pro late 2017). Just need to get underneath the battery cells and push through the factory adhesive/tape. The entire process took around 30 min doing it this way; I’m handy, though no pro.

renob - Antwort

Thank you! This excellent guide gave me a lot of confidence in the replacement of the battery. All went precisely according to plan.

Giovanni Gervasio - Antwort

Excellent instructions. I did it slowly as it’s my first time with a Macbook Pro. Took me 90 minutes. I added some comments in steps 13-15 because the battery wasn’t connected properly on the first time.

tarex7 - Antwort

I just completed the swap… awesome guide and really easy.

The only Problem i had was the missing data cable from the battery board to the logic board which was not included with the new battery. Thanks to some comments from other users I used the cable from the old battery.

Everything Else worked as described.

Mirko Bjelic - Antwort

Great guide, thank you. I am replacing my battery and have a question about Step 13. Would it be possible to show how to disconnect this end of the cable (the hook end). I am having a hard time getting it out.

Thank you in advance for any help/advice.

r8w8 - Antwort

Vielen Dank für die gute Anleitung. Der Akkutausch hat ohne Probleme sehr einfach in ca. einer Stunde geklappt.

Christian Düll - Antwort

Thank you Jeff for the detailed and accurate guide.

Mario W - Antwort

Worked just perfectly, thank you iFIXIT for doing what you do. Truly appreciated. Perfect instructions- just perfect!!

tgsavel - Antwort

Thank you for the great guide! I did not want to ship my Mac to official Apple service centre - as I was advised I would need to wait one week for battery replacement and I needed laptop for my daily work. Decided to replace battery on my own. Thanks to this comprehensive guide I made it in 2 hours. I do appreciate clear and comprehensive way author has explained the procedure. Again big thank you! Also useful comments of users are appreciated. Thanks. Andrew

Andrew Pernisch - Antwort

Petite astuce après une réparation fructueuse : pour simplifier cette étape, munissez vous d’un dissolvant fourni ou non, prenez les élastiques de masques chirurgicaux et imbibez le avec le dissolvant. À l’aide de cures-dents, l’insérer entre le châssis et la batterie puis faire un mouvement d’aller et retour tout en avançant au fur et à mesure que la batterie se décolle. Cette astuce m’a fait gagné beaucoup de temps et elle permet de ne pas endommager la batterie lorsque de son extraction. Plus sur, plus rapide et plus facile !

A little tip after a successful repair: to simplify this step, take the surgical mask elastic bands and soak them with solvent. Using toothpicks, insert it between the frame and the battery then move back and forth while moving forward as the battery comes off. This trick saved me a lot of time and avoids damaging the battery when removing it. Safer, quicker and easier.

Matthieu - Antwort

good guide, but that adhesive did not come off easy. Used a Bank card and adhesive remover. everything else was smooth ad though ;)

Tommy HARDT - Antwort

I suggest examining the two connection points of the skinny battery data cable. Possibly you failed to either, fully insert the cable or forgot to press the clamp down. Also, I believe Fixit fails to tell you to lift the clamp before removal and it is impossible to insert without lifting the clamp. You might need extra strong reading glasses to see it properly. Good luck.

David Hutzler - Antwort

I need to buy one, but you guys don't ship to India, is there any way you guys can help ? i needed urgently/

Rohan Singh - Antwort

Great guide,

got the spare battery from your store and followed the guide. But now I have the issue that my macBook sometimes needs to be plugged in to wake/start even tough the battery got enough charge. could this be a battery related issue?

Tommy HARDT - Antwort

Terrific guide, thank you very much!

Got a replacement battery from eBay (UK supplier) and didn't need any battery calibration or the like afterwards.

This was only my second replacement, and it's actually not that complicated. But the tiny screws and clamps and the sh%$&§y glue...

Speaking of glue: I can handle solvent (isopropanol etc.) but I wanted to minimize damage to the screen. So I took the butcher/surgeon approach and cut the battery out with the "plastic cards". Took a while but worked. Total time for first replacement 2 hours, second one 1 hour.

The adhesive strips of the replacement battery were not as strong as those of the original battery, but that may actually reflect aging and effect or repeated heating of the glue. In any case, the replacement battery sits tightly enough to not require any correction.

Cheers

Jochen Bergmann - Antwort

I just did this and it worked a treat. Bought a replacement item from Amazon that had plenty of positive feedback and went to work. I used a plastic scraper and some solvent to get the batteries out and it was definitely the hardest part of the job - took at least an hour - that plus cleaning and prepping the surfaces for the new battery.


But it was really therapeutic and when the computer booted up and Coconut showed me a healthy 100% functional battery the feeling was GREAT!

I made the mistake of removing the trackpad and had to realign it a couple of times but with this operation, I don't think it is necessary to remove it. I'd definitely be able to do it in half the time if I ever needed to again. :D

Adam - Antwort

Hi, I have just done this and all seemed to go well, but just plugged my mac into the mains and it is not charging or switching on at all. Unsure if it could be that the battery data cable isn't connected in well enough as it was quite fiddly to put back in?

izzy_turnbull - Antwort

I support wholeheartedly the goals of iFixit -- sustainability, support for true ownership of the products we purchase, and elimination of the domination of corporate entities. The guide provided here for replacing the battery in a Macbook Pro was spot-on and even a fraidy-cat like myself had no problems in accomplishing the task. Hooray! Unfortunately, I have found the battery itself to be of low quality, i.e., just six months later a fully-charged battery is completely spent within two hours, even with the screen dimmed to 50% and when doing nothing more demanding than word processing. It is unfortunate that the good intentions of iFixit are not supported by quality products.

Mark Decker - Antwort

Hi there, thanks for this very detailed manual. I followed every step. Everything looks like it work except for one thing : since then my spacebar is not working anymore :/ I'm not sure what happened. If you have any clue to help me I'd be very grateful. A computer without a spacebar is worst than without a battery I'm afraid.. :(

Martin dupon - Antwort

While I do not intend to criticize the writer of this guide, I believe that the directions provided are incomplete without being reversed step-by-step. As a first-time hardware worker, I found several steps to be more complicated than the instruction "follow the above steps in reverse order" suggested. Specifically, installing the new battery required precise alignment of the battery board, which I only discovered after I had already placed the new battery. I had to lift it back out, which was difficult as it was already adhered, to adjust the location properly. Furthermore, connecting the battery board data cable connector to the new battery was challenging, and I was unsure of how much force to apply or how far it needed to go in. After completing the installation, I was concerned that I had made a mistake and potentially damaged the device. If that had been the case, I would have been disappointed that I had spent $119 on a replacement kit.

Mal - Antwort

I followed this guide to replace a battery because my partner's mother's MacBook was only functioning when plugged into the wall. After successful install, I tried booting the computer, but it would not boot unless it was plugged into the wall. It came to life, with the fan running at full. I checked in SysPref to check the battery, and it wasn't listed; therefore, when I unplugged the power cable, the device died. It refused to turn on again unless I re-seated the battery logic cable. I feared the logic cable had been damaged during the repair, as without that cable, the system won't recognize the battery.

If this happens to you, understand it is very important that you turn back on the Auto Boot feature!

With Auto Boot enabled, I was able to perform an SMC reset by:

1. Plugging in the laptop to the charger, with the lid closed

2. Opening the lid and quickly holding Shift+Control+Option+Power for 10 seconds

3. Pressing the power button again

This calmed the fans and the battery now charges and is displayed.

Brian - Antwort

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