Einleitung
Use this guide to upgrade or replace the solid-state drive in a MacBook Pro 13” Late 2012. This MacBook Pro uses a proprietary storage drive connector, and is therefore not compatible with common M.2 drives without the use of an adapter.
Before you perform this repair, if at all possible, back up your existing SSD. Then, either familiarize yourself with internet recovery or create a bootable external drive so you’ll be ready to install macOS onto your new drive and migrate your data to the new SSD.
Finally, we strongly recommend installing macOS 10.13 High Sierra (or a later macOS) before replacing the original SSD from your MacBook Pro. Most new SSDs require updated storage drivers not found in versions of macOS prior to High Sierra.
Was du brauchst
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
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Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.
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Remove the lower case and set it aside.
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The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.
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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
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Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
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Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws
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One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw
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Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
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Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
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Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.
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It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.
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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.
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Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.
wat is the model this SSD
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.
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While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
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Insert the edge of plastic opening tool between the SSD and the SSD tray, opposite to the socket side of SSD tray.
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Pry the side of the SSD opposite the SSD tray socket out of the SSD tray.
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SSD remains.
A most excellent step by step. I now need to figure out how to grant permission for my backup Air to read my removed Pro SSD files. Perhaps a link from here to that would be helpful.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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9 Kommentare
I followed the guide and was able to upgrade my wife's MacBook from 128GB to 240 GB!
One thing I noticed was that when I removed the plastic clip in step 6, it left behind a glue dot on the screw head I had to remove in step 7. I wasn't sure why my screwdriver kept rotating until I realized the clear dot was covering the screwed! Then I tweeze the dot off, and put it in the recess on the underside of the clip and all was good.
Everything went to the letter after, until it came time to restart and initialize the new disk. It turns out the old disk had some directory damage, so when it was copied to the new internal SSD, then the Mac wouldn't boot from it until I did a couple FSCK and Repair Disk fixes.
Vignesh,
Here is an option to recover your data and get a tiny speedy external SSD drive for 28.85
Sam,
The 2012 MacBook Pro uses an PCI Express Mini Card connection between the logic board and the SSD.
"Some notebooks (notably the Asus Eee PC, the MacBook Air, and the Dell mini9 and mini10) use a variant of the PCI Express Mini Card as an SSD. This variant uses the reserved and several non-reserved pins to implement SATA and IDE interface passthrough, keeping only USB, ground lines, and sometimes the core PCIe 1x bus intact.[11] This makes the 'miniPCIe' flash and solid state drives sold for netbooks largely incompatible with true PCI Express Mini implementations."
I fully agree, Especially as it turned out to be a little tricky to get the connector back in his position properly. Don't think there is a higher risk of damage through electric shock or so. Next time I will for sure skip it ;-)
Timpetou -
Aren’t steps 4-10 completely unnecessary?
That’s what i thought too!
I also agree. There is only one connection to the SSD cable. No other connectors to the SSD means other connections don't need to be removed. The only reason would be to limit any power spikes when removing the SSD cable itself, but that could also happen when removing the power connector in steps 4 thru 9 as well ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Removing the main power connector in my experience can be tricky and cause unintended damage. In one repair I damaged the trackpad connections and in another MacBook repair damaged the power connector itself as they can also be fragile. So the less connectors removed the better. This is not the first time that too many steps have been included in these procedures. i.e.: Battery replacement procedures require speakers be removed in one case that are also not necessary to remove.
I appreciate the effort in developing these procedures, thanks, they are very valuable.
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Is it compatible for macbook pro late 2012?
nvme crucial P5 Plus can install or not? thanks
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - Antwort
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - Antwort
It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.
Raymond Shpeley - Antwort