Einleitung

interne Voraussetzung

  1. Ziehe das Kabel zum rechten Lautsprecher/Subwoofer mit der Spudgerspitze unter dem im oberen Gehäuse eingeformten Haltebügel heraus. Ziehe das Kabel hoch, um den Verbinder aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board zu heben.
    • Ziehe das Kabel zum rechten Lautsprecher/Subwoofer mit der Spudgerspitze unter dem im oberen Gehäuse eingeformten Haltebügel heraus.

    • Ziehe das Kabel hoch, um den Verbinder aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board zu heben.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart - Antwort

  2. Löse das Kamerakabel vom Logic Board.
    • Löse das Kamerakabel vom Logic Board.

    • Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche der Platine. Wenn du das Kabel nach oben ziehst, kannst du das Kabel oder das Logic Board beschädigen.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - Antwort

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - Antwort

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - Antwort

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

    VARE - Antwort

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter - Antwort

  3. Löse folgende vier Kabel: AirPort/Bluetoothkabel
    • Löse folgende vier Kabel:

    • AirPort/Bluetoothkabel

    • Kabel zum optischen Laufwerk

    • Festplattenkabel

    • Kabel zum Trackpad

    • Um die Kabel zu lösen, musst du mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers ihre Verbinder aus den Sockeln auf dem Logic Board heben.

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - Antwort

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - Antwort

  4. Klappe die Halteklappe am Sockel des ZIF Verbinder des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel oder dem Spudger nach oben. Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur die Halteklappe selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel. Ziehe das Flachbandkabel mit der Spudgerspitze aus dem Sockel.
    • Klappe die Halteklappe am Sockel des ZIF Verbinder des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel oder dem Spudger nach oben.

    • Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur die Halteklappe selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel mit der Spudgerspitze aus dem Sockel.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - Antwort

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - Antwort

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    Thanks! This saved me hours!

    Marc Steffen -

    David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

    simolinic - Antwort

    if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

    Jacob - Antwort

    i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit

    works great!

    mark Andrews - Antwort

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Antwort

    “Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.” <=== perhaps the best suggestion I’ve read in years!

    airshack - Antwort

    The tape trick works. Since we’re in the middle of a home renovation project I used a piece of painters tape that was lying around. It doesn’t really stick to the cable but it just gives you that extra grip.

    Rob Kruit - Antwort

    I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.

    nikowesome - Antwort

    Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.

    Zakary Womack - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - Antwort

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - Antwort

    The tape trick was the only way it could go in for me.

    Lee Hughart - Antwort

    PLEASE post the tape trick for reinsertion into the MAIN instructions for this repair. I managed to destroy the cable traces requiring me to replace the whole keyboard before I found the tape trick info. Please, please, please keep anyone else from &&^&^$^ up this way.

    Robert Daverin - Antwort

    tape tip! genius! first go!

    Alfonso Garcia-Bennett - Antwort

    The most difficult part. It is hard to get it out and put it back. It seems there are a lot of suggests how to do it easier. I spent on this about a half an hour :( Pitty that I didn't see that suggestions before.

    dmitrybalabka - Antwort

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  6. Wenn vorhanden, musst du den kleinen schwarzen Klebestreifen über dem Sockel des Verbinder der Tastaturbeleuchtung abziehen.
    • Wenn vorhanden, musst du den kleinen schwarzen Klebestreifen über dem Sockel des Verbinder der Tastaturbeleuchtung abziehen.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - Antwort

  7. Klappe die Halteklappe auf dem ZIF Verbinder der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit dem Spudger oder dem Fingernagel nach oben. Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur die Halteklappe selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel. Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Tastaturbeleuchtung aus seinem Sockel.
    • Klappe die Halteklappe auf dem ZIF Verbinder der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit dem Spudger oder dem Fingernagel nach oben.

    • Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur die Halteklappe selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Tastaturbeleuchtung aus seinem Sockel.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - Antwort

  8. Ziehe den Verbinder zum Ruhesensor/Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
    • Ziehe den Verbinder zum Ruhesensor/Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Hello Guys , I accidently Broke the Cable , is there a replacement for it?

    dewa - Antwort

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - Antwort

  9. Fasse die Plastikzuglasche auf dem Sicherungsbügel des Displaydatenkabels an und drehe ihn in Richtung des DC-in Anschlusses des Computers. Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board. Ziehe das Kabel nicht nach oben, denn sein Sockel ist sehr empfindlich. Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche der Platine.
    • Fasse die Plastikzuglasche auf dem Sicherungsbügel des Displaydatenkabels an und drehe ihn in Richtung des DC-in Anschlusses des Computers.

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Ziehe das Kabel nicht nach oben, denn sein Sockel ist sehr empfindlich. Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche der Platine.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - Antwort

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - Antwort

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    Probably a long shot but can this cable be replaced? I think i broke mine

    Ahmad z - Antwort

    Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.

    mark Andrews - Antwort

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - Antwort

    My display is also not working after reassembly. External monitor works, but the internal display doesn't.

    Chris - Antwort

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - Antwort

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - Antwort

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - Antwort

    Matt Did the internal display then turn on? Mine is still dark…

    Tony Feldhaus -

  10. Entferne folgende neun Schrauben:
    • Entferne folgende neun Schrauben:

    • Fünf 3,6 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 4,3 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 7,2 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    • Bei einigen Modellen sind die Schrauben, wie folgend beschrieben, unter Umständen etwas kürzer:

    • Fünf 3,0 mm Torx T6 Schrauben

    • Zwei 3,6 mm Torx T6 Schraube n

    • Zwei 6,7 mm Torx T6 Schrauben

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - Antwort

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    GotMac -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

    rubenwiersma - Antwort

    lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

    msvicious510 - Antwort

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - Antwort

    There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm

    sebdominguez - Antwort

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - Antwort

  11. Entferne folgende zwei Schrauben: Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
    • Entferne folgende zwei Schrauben:

    • Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 5,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Entferne die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels vom oberen Gehäuse.

    The last screw is the onde that's getting me. Been trying to take it out for half an hour...

    leotowers - Antwort

  12. Das Mikrofon ist am oberen Gehäuse festgeklebt. Löse es vorsichtig mit einer Spudgerspitze vom Kleber.
    • Das Mikrofon ist am oberen Gehäuse festgeklebt. Löse es vorsichtig mit einer Spudgerspitze vom Kleber.

    The mic adhesive was the only adhesive which seemed diminished by disassembly. I don’t know what apple uses for internal adhesive but I finished the project wishing I had some to secure this mic assembly a little better.

    airshack - Antwort

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - Antwort

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas - Antwort

  13. Passe auf die vielen Anschlüsse am Rand auf und hebe das Logic Board am Ende beim optischen Laufwerk hoch.
    • Passe auf die vielen Anschlüsse am Rand auf und hebe das Logic Board am Ende beim optischen Laufwerk hoch.

    • Biege die Platine nicht, wenn du sie aus dem Gehäuse heraushebst. Achte auf die flexible Verbindung zur DC-in Platine, die sich am Gehäuse verfangen könnte.

    • Entferne das Logic Board.

    I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

    Jean F - Antwort

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - Antwort

    Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

    fasthans - Antwort

    It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

    fasthans - Antwort

    I got the microphone cable out fine, but what I'm really struggling with is the camera cable - it doesn't seem to wanna come out and I don't want to force it because I know it's fragile. Anyone find a trick for this?

    ingwis - Antwort

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - Antwort

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    There is one flexible metal plate near each connector probably a grounding plate which can get bend while pulling out the logic board. I had one of them bend but fortunately it didn't break off.

    Leo Jose - Antwort

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - Antwort

    Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/

    Denise Vondy -

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - Antwort

    The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.

    airshack - Antwort

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Antwort

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Antwort

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - Antwort

Abschluss

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If I have a MacBook Pro 13’’ A1278 Mid 2012 with i5 2.5GHz logic board, am I able to put a 2.3 GHz i5 A1278 early 2011 macbook pro logic board onto the Mid 2012 macbook pro?

Sara - Antwort

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