Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des Logic Boards gezeigt.

Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:
  • Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:

    • Sieben 3 mm Schrauben.

    • Drei 13,5 mm Schrauben.

It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

scott523 - Antwort

The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

iphonetechtips -

A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

johnsawyercjs -

Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

johnsawyercjs -

One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...

Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

johnsawyercjs -

Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

David Fear -

Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

wertaerte - Antwort

Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

twisk - Antwort

thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

xitxit2 -

i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

plins718 - Antwort

Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

mastover - Antwort

I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

adlerpe -

That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

joyitsjennie -

Great idea and one I use often

Thomas Overstreet -

Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

Laura Sharkey -

The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

Eric Sorenson - Antwort

Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

danzeitlin -

I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

jonathanmorgan - Antwort

I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

john - Antwort

Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

Igor - Antwort

The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

Some info here:

http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

"1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

Winston -

I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

valentinedhdh - Antwort

I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

tarriojuan - Antwort

Had no idea they were so expensive.

Franklin - Antwort

Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

Luis Soto - Antwort

There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

Luis - Antwort

If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

gkofga - Antwort

What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

John Doe -

<i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

Joseph King - Antwort

It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

Mike - Antwort

Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.
  • Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.

In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

Mike - Antwort

Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.
  • Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.

  • Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

why is step 3 necessary?

gansodesoya - Antwort

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

MrKane - Antwort

Quote from gansodesoya:

why is step 3 necessary?

Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

amiller770 - Antwort

I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

shockaaa - Antwort

Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

Brian -

$@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

Lukas Besch - Antwort

You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

Logan Bean -

How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

Horace Chung - Antwort

yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

maccentric -

Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

Berlugana

bduault - Antwort

Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

amiller770 -

I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

Plamen - Antwort

I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

marioluiggi -

A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).

.

Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)

.

Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

Luis Soto - Antwort

Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

Everett Whiteman - Antwort

It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

Knox Karima - Antwort

This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

Jeff Diamond - Antwort

Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

clsmithj - Antwort

Benutze einen Spudger um den Verbinder des Ventilatorkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine zu lösen. Am Besten geht das, indem du den Spudger in seiner Längsachse verdrehst während du  ihn unter den Ventilatorkabeln ansetzt, um den Verbinder zu lösen. Im zweiten und dritten Bild siehst du den Verbinder und den Anschluss des Ventilators. Passe auf, dass du den Plastikanschluss nicht aus der Hauptplatine herausbrichst, wenn du das Kabel herauslöst. Die Hauptplatine sieht in deinem Gerät vielleicht ein kleines bisschen anders aus, als auf dem zweiten Foto, aber der Ventilatoranschluss ist gleich.
  • Benutze einen Spudger um den Verbinder des Ventilatorkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine zu lösen.

  • Am Besten geht das, indem du den Spudger in seiner Längsachse verdrehst während du ihn unter den Ventilatorkabeln ansetzt, um den Verbinder zu lösen.

  • Im zweiten und dritten Bild siehst du den Verbinder und den Anschluss des Ventilators. Passe auf, dass du den Plastikanschluss nicht aus der Hauptplatine herausbrichst, wenn du das Kabel herauslöst. Die Hauptplatine sieht in deinem Gerät vielleicht ein kleines bisschen anders aus, als auf dem zweiten Foto, aber der Ventilatoranschluss ist gleich.

Bummer, I broke the connector at the solder points. Be careful!

Hector - Antwort

Any tips on how to solder it back on? I made the same mistake.

Juan Sebastian -

Hi Hector, how did you put it back?

I broke mine too and carefully glued it back in but now the fan isn't working... But I don't know if it's because of this or because it does not need to switch on as I also changed my hard drive from HD to SSHD Hybrid.

Thanks

Antoine B -

I did a terrible mistake when I try to remove the fan connector socket form the logic board I accidentally pop out the connector from the board.. I am not expert in soldering so big problem for me. What should I do?

Nielven Araullo - Antwort

Bring it to someone who know to solde...

Chel - Antwort

that you dont have to break off the fan connector).It is possible to leave the fan attached to the logic board by the single torx screw (on the right hand side in the image below). So h

Graham Tunnadine - Antwort

The image is very misleading. This is why many people are breaking their connectors. Please correct this and make it VERY clear that one has to put the spudger straight behind the cables, NOT behind the connector, as shown in the pic.

Giunia - Antwort

I agree with Giunia. I just broke my fan socket off the board too

vejdani -

I agree with Giunia. Just broke my fan socket off the board >_<

agoodcourage - Antwort

Thankfully there is a helpful guide in the comments on this post for fixing the socket in the likely event that you snap the sucker clean off like I did:

I popped off the fan connection from the logic board...Fix?

agoodcourage - Antwort

This is the worst step from this repair.

BE CAREFUL.

Mer - Antwort

i also broke the fan connector off from my board, currently attempting to glue down with super glue. i agree with the others. photo could be updated to show spudger behind the connector wires (not at the corner of the connectors base as it currently, misleadingly shows). and perhaps even another line drawing or illustration showing how this fan connector fits into its socket on the board like a foot being put into a shoe. toes down first, heel with wires clicks in last. coming out the heel of the connector with wires comes up and out of the shoe first, then the toes. be careful out there.

satanders - Antwort

I see people talking about gluing it back. This is a connector that carries electricity, the electricity is what make the fan turn, not magic. The connector needs to be soldered back, not glued., as glue doesn’t conduct electricity. Any attempt at gluing it back will make further reparations very complicated, as the reparator will have to try to remove the glue you put in order to be able to solder back.

Long story short, if you think gluing it back is a good idea, you should not be attempting this repair (changing the keyboard) in the first place.

Albert - Antwort

Löse die folgenden drei Schrauben:
  • Löse die folgenden drei Schrauben:

    • Eine 7 mm Torx T6 Schraube

    • Zwei 5,4 mm Torx T6Schrauben

Kommentar hinzufügen

Hebe den Ventilator aus dem oberen Gehäuse.
  • Hebe den Ventilator aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Fasse die Zuglasche am Sicherungsbügel des Display-Datenkabels an und drehe es in Richtung der Seite mit DC-in Buchse. Ziehe den Verbinder des Display-Datenkabels direkt aus seinem Sockel heraus. Ziehe den Verbinder des Display-Datenkabels direkt aus seinem Sockel heraus.
  • Fasse die Zuglasche am Sicherungsbügel des Display-Datenkabels an und drehe es in Richtung der Seite mit DC-in Buchse.

  • Ziehe den Verbinder des Display-Datenkabels direkt aus seinem Sockel heraus.

On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.

highnoontoday - Antwort

The same thing happened to me. What did you do when you reassembled? thx Alan

Alan Schwartz -

Everything went fine, but now I cannot get the connector back - it seems that I'm doing everything in reverse order, but i doesn't fit

Alexei Zoubov - Antwort

Drehe folgende Kreuzschlitzschrauben heraus, die die Befestigungsklammer des Display-Datenkabels am Gehäuse sichern: Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
  • Drehe folgende Kreuzschlitzschrauben heraus, die die Befestigungsklammer des Display-Datenkabels am Gehäuse sichern:

    • Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 5,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

  • Hebe die Klammer des Display-Datenkabels aus dem Gehäuse.

The 8.6mm screw is stripped, what to do now?

mwmouawad - Antwort

Same problem here but with the 5.6 mm one. In fact, that screw was slightly different from a phillips, it seems a tiny torq-set screw. Is that possible? Anyone else had a similar problem? I stripped it out using a phillips 00 that worked perfectly removing all the other phillips screws...

Blackwood - Antwort

Did you solve the stripping problem? I stripped the 5.6.

Buzzy - Antwort

the other guides call the same screws 7mm and 5mm. please say which one is correct

garegin - Antwort

Heble die Verbinder  vom Subwoofer und rechten Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vom Logic Board.
  • Heble die Verbinder vom Subwoofer und rechten Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vom Logic Board.

How does this thing reconnect? there are no visible clips, hooks, pins, nothing. Adhesive?

Ben Flemming - Antwort

Push it straight down. It should snap in.

BobG - Antwort

My subwoofer connector cam off the logic board. I guess I’ll see if there is no issue putting it back together with a working sub woofer

Greg Zulli - Antwort

Haha on the picture the person broke it! You should take it off same way you take off the fan connector. This illustrates what happens when you do it wrong.

Albert - Antwort

Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels in die Richtung des optischen Laufwerks, um es vomLogic Board zu trennen.
  • Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels in die Richtung des optischen Laufwerks, um es vomLogic Board zu trennen.

  • Dieser Anschluss ist aus Metall und verbiegt sich leicht. Achte darauf, den Stecker und den Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zueinander auszurichten, bevor du die beiden Teile miteinander verbindest.

As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.

Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.

Arnaud ROSAY - Antwort

Heble die Verbinder  vom optischen Laufwerk,  von der Festplatte und vom Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vom Logic Board. Heble die Verbinder  vom optischen Laufwerk,  von der Festplatte und vom Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vom Logic Board. Heble die Verbinder  vom optischen Laufwerk,  von der Festplatte und vom Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vom Logic Board.
  • Heble die Verbinder vom optischen Laufwerk, von der Festplatte und vom Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vom Logic Board.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Hebe die Sicherungsklappe am ZIF-Verbinder für das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur mit dem Fingernagel oder einer Spudgerspitze hoch. Schiebe dann mit dem Spudger das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur aus dem Sockel. Schiebe dann mit dem Spudger das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur aus dem Sockel.
  • Hebe die Sicherungsklappe am ZIF-Verbinder für das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur mit dem Fingernagel oder einer Spudgerspitze hoch.

  • Schiebe dann mit dem Spudger das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur aus dem Sockel.

Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.

Leo Nikitin - Antwort

the zif cable is especially difficult to get back in fully. Seems I might need to make my own tool with fine tweezers that are rubber dipped (or something similar). Have had no luck otherwise and worry I am doing damage.

Mateo - Antwort

As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.

stevesontheroad - Antwort

Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!

Ted Bishop -

Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.

never_forever18 -

Steve's trick of using a piece of tape is definitely a good one. It makes the re-insertion much easier.

BobG - Antwort

Does anyone have pictures showing how to reinstall the keyboard and backlight cable?

Michele Rathman - Antwort

Ziehe das kleine Stück schwarzes Band vom Sockel des Flachbandkabels der der Tastaturbeleuchtung ab.
  • Ziehe das kleine Stück schwarzes Band vom Sockel des Flachbandkabels der der Tastaturbeleuchtung ab.

Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.

Asim Akath - Antwort

Hebe die Sicherungsklappe am ZIF-Verbinder für das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit der Spudgerspitze hoch. Schiebe dann mit dem Spudger das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung aus dem Sockel. Schiebe dann mit dem Spudger das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung aus dem Sockel.
  • Hebe die Sicherungsklappe am ZIF-Verbinder für das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.

  • Schiebe dann mit dem Spudger das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung aus dem Sockel.

Easy to take out Zif cable but can't seem to get it back in again.

linuxuser101 - Antwort

Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.

Rainer - Antwort

I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in

spearson - Antwort

A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.

originalmachead - Antwort

Heble den Verbinder des Kabels der Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus dem Logic Board.
  • Heble den Verbinder des Kabels der Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus dem Logic Board.

seems like a large leap from step 15 to 16. The microphone is under another mechanism of screws near the data cable bracket. Also there is a step missing above in which the screw is removed.

Jean Kang - Antwort

Löse die Klebeverbindung des Mikrofons am oberen Gehäuse  mit der Spudgerspitze.
  • Löse die Klebeverbindung des Mikrofons am oberen Gehäuse mit der Spudgerspitze.

on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.

linuxuser101 - Antwort

Entferne folgende Torx-Schrauben:
  • Entferne folgende Torx-Schrauben:

    • Zwei 7mm T6 Torx Schrauben an der DC-in Platine.

    • Fünf 3,3 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 4 mm T6 Schrauben

Can someone tell me what is glued on the ethernet port and what kind of glue it is?

Harry - Antwort

Es ist nicht zwingend nötig den Akku zu entfernen, bevor du das Logic Board heraushebst. Es ist aber sicherer und einfacher. Wenn du den Akku drinnen lässt, achte sehr darauf, dass du das Logic Board nicht am Akku in der Nähe des Strichcodes verbiegst. Entferne folgende TriPoint Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:
  • Es ist nicht zwingend nötig den Akku zu entfernen, bevor du das Logic Board heraushebst. Es ist aber sicherer und einfacher. Wenn du den Akku drinnen lässt, achte sehr darauf, dass du das Logic Board nicht am Akku in der Nähe des Strichcodes verbiegst.

  • Entferne folgende TriPoint Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Eine 5,5 mm TriPoint Schraube

    • Eine 13,5 mm TriPoint Schraube

  • Hebe den Akku aus dem Gehäuse.

Why not do this step near the start? Would make it easier to replace the ribbon cables in step 12, 13 and 14

Joe Corbett - Antwort

Hebe das Logic Board am linken Rand hoch, bis die Ports aus der Seite des oberen Gehäuses frei werden. Ziehe das Logic Board von der Seite des Gehäuses weg, achte dabei darauf, dass sich die DC-in Platine nicht verfängt.
  • Hebe das Logic Board am linken Rand hoch, bis die Ports aus der Seite des oberen Gehäuses frei werden.

  • Ziehe das Logic Board von der Seite des Gehäuses weg, achte dabei darauf, dass sich die DC-in Platine nicht verfängt.

Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.

Leo Nikitin - Antwort

Entferne die vier 8,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche den Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigen.
  • Entferne die vier 8,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche den Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigen.

  • Unter jeder der vier Schrauben befindet sich eine Feder.

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Hebe den Kühlkörper vorsichtig vom Logic Board ab.
  • Hebe den Kühlkörper vorsichtig vom Logic Board ab.

  • Bevor du den Kühlkörper wieder einbaust, musst du erst eine Schicht Wärmeleitpaste auftragen. Unsere Anleitung hilft dir dabei.

As the pic in step 22 reveals, the Apple factories in Asia apply a huge amount of thermal heat sink paste goop to the top surface of the processors. The need for a special primer on this reapplication procedure (other than the removal and cleaning of the old paste from the processors' surfaces) is over-rated.

dcelander - Antwort

Ziehe das Klebeband vom Stecker des Mikrofonkabels und vom Stecker am linken Lautsprecherkabel ab.
  • Ziehe das Klebeband vom Stecker des Mikrofonkabels und vom Stecker am linken Lautsprecherkabel ab.

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Hebele den Stecker vom linken Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom Logic Board ab.
  • Hebele den Stecker vom linken Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom Logic Board ab.

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Hebele den Stecker vom Mikrofonkabel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom Logic Board ab.
  • Hebele den Stecker vom Mikrofonkabel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom Logic Board ab.

has anyone else found that the cord is incredibly short?

I’m trying to reconnect the logicboard and the microphone cable and it appears to be barely able to reach and it is certainly not easy to connect to the two things.

Evan Morton - Antwort

Löse vorsichtig die Einheit aus linkem Lautsprecher/Mikrofon aus der Klebeverbindung zum Logic Board.
  • Löse vorsichtig die Einheit aus linkem Lautsprecher/Mikrofon aus der Klebeverbindung zum Logic Board.

What it's the order of the three cables on the microphone connector, thick black-grey-thin black???? Step 25

Miguel Acosta - Antwort

Thanks for this great guide.

My MBP 13" (mid 2010) wouldn't turn on. I tried the basic help guides, and eventually opened it and removed the battery, let it sit, and put the battery back in. Still wouldn't turn on. Took it to the Apple store, they said I need a new logic board, which would cost a few weeks and ~$300. This is an expensive repair for an expensive computer which is expected to last for more than a few years before going to !@#$. However, even as expensive as the repair is, isn't it more expensive than the fix-it-yourself guide? Where does one buy a new logic board, and how much does it cost? Looks like the logic boards above cost $600?? How is this do-it-yourself method worth it anymore?

Please advise.

Thanks

Mark R - Antwort

It's worth it if you don't buy your parts from iFixIt who charges an arm and a leg for the parts.

akrutzler - Antwort

Trenne das DC-In Board ab, indem seinen Stecker aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board ziehst.
  • Trenne das DC-In Board ab, indem seinen Stecker aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board ziehst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Löse die Rasten auf jeder Seite des Chips, indem gleichzeitig beide Rasten weg vom RAM drückst. Diese Rasten halten den Chip fest. Wenn du sie löst, wird der Chip &quot;herausspringen&quot;.
  • Löse die Rasten auf jeder Seite des Chips, indem gleichzeitig beide Rasten weg vom RAM drückst.

  • Diese Rasten halten den Chip fest. Wenn du sie löst, wird der Chip "herausspringen".

  • Wenn der RAM herausgesprungen ist, dann kannst du ihn gerade aus seinem Sockel herausziehen.

  • Wiederhole dieses Verfahren, wenn ein zweiter Chip installiert ist.

  • Das Logic Board bleibt übrig.

Do I need to remove the Arctic Silver and replace it?

rob - Antwort

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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If i have Logic board mid 2010 broken, can I replace it with Logic board mid 2009? Please reply asap

moiicruz - Antwort

My Mac book pro mid 2010 unibody 13' suddenly stopped working and was diagnosed for water damage. followed step by step instruction to disassemble and reassemble the logic board. Even the cleaning procedure for the water damage was available on the ifixit website. The author's instructions are very clear and precise and the colour coded markings about the screws and all other instruction are very precise. My mac book is now back to life after two years. THANKS A LOT to IFIXIT and the AUTHOR.

rishi - Antwort

I ordered the logic board, but the supposed camera cable on the original board a flat cable pop off connector like the hard drive. but on the new board the connector metal as shown here in this instructions. Do I need a different board or cable?

djalbinov - Antwort

Just replaced the logic board, easily thanks to this tutorial. Board is suppose to be brand new, sealed and never used. Upon boot up the screen flashes once but stays black afterward, and now my fan is just running non-stop with nothing else happening… what can I do?

Santos Nunez - Antwort

Thanks so much. A Wonderful Resourse. The Logic board Tutorial is great and computer is working so far!

Logic board purchased from ifix also!

Shelley McKaughan - Antwort

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