Einleitung

Tausche den Arbeitsspeicher / RAM deines MacBook Pro 13'' Unibody Mid 2010 aus.

Ursprünglich betrug der maximale Arbeitsspeicher dieses Geräts 8GB. Allerdings unterstützen Systeme, auf denen OS X 10.7.5 (oder höher) läuft, bis zu 16GB RAM.

Quelle

  1. Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:
    • Entferne die folgenden 10 Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben, die die Gehäuse-Unterseite des MacBook Pro 13" Unibody befestigen:

      • Sieben 3 mm Schrauben.

      • Drei 13,5 mm Schrauben.

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - Antwort

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

    http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...

    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - Antwort

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - Antwort

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - Antwort

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - Antwort

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

    Eric Sorenson - Antwort

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - Antwort

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - Antwort

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - Antwort

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:

    http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - Antwort

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - Antwort

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - Antwort

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - Antwort

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - Antwort

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - Antwort

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - Antwort

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - Antwort

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - Antwort

  2. Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.
    • Hebe die Unterseite vorsichtig an und drücke sie Richtung Rückseite des Laptops, um die Halterungsclips zu lösen.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - Antwort

  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln!
    Satte 12 € Rabatt auf jeden Einkauf ab 50 €. Einfach den Code FIXMAS12 am Ende deines Bestellvorgangs eingeben
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln!
    Satte 12 € Rabatt auf jeden Einkauf ab 50 €. Einfach den Code FIXMAS12 am Ende deines Bestellvorgangs eingeben
    • Wir empfehlen, vorsorglich den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen, um eine elektrische Entladung zu verhindern.

    • Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - Antwort

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - Antwort

    Citazione da gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - Antwort

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - Antwort

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - Antwort

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - Antwort

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

    Berlugana

    bduault - Antwort

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - Antwort

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).

    .

    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)

    .

    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - Antwort

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - Antwort

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - Antwort

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - Antwort

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - Antwort

    • Löse die Rasten auf jeder Seite des Riegels, indem du beide gleichzeitig weg vom RAM drückst.

    • Diese Rasten halten den Riegel fest, wenn sie gelöst sind, wird der Riegel etwas "herausspringen".

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Nachdem der RAM herausgesprungen ist, kannst du ihn gerade aus seinem Sockel herausziehen.

    • Wiederhole diesen Vorgang, wenn ein zweiter Riegel eingebaut ist.

    Do this step slowly! Depending on the age of the components, both ram and the system board, removing and inserting RAM can actually break threads on the board that read and write info to the ram sticks. It should be very easy to remove the ram. If it seems hard to remove, stop and make sure you have followed all the steps correctly!

    Everett Whiteman - Antwort

    Bonjour,l'an dernier, mon Macbookpro 13" de 2010 ne me répondant plus du tout, avant de tout démonter, j'ai passé l'aspirateur très longuement : il est reparti jusqu'à ce jour. Gagné 1an. On va voir si cela marche encore... En tous cas, à recommander!

    AMD - Antwort

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

255 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:

100%

Theo Mat hilft uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Beginne zu übersetzen ›

Hey, I put 16Gb RAM in my MacBook Pro Mid 2010. I bought in another store because iFixit doesn't have.

Thanks Walter Galan to more this tutorial!!

wilsonwistuba - Antwort

Hello,

Please answer this question. Today i purchase Macbook Pro core2duo model: A1278 year: 2010 Laptop and i found the ram is 2gb DDR3 1333mhz bus speed.

So will 1333mhz bus speed support my macbook or it will crash randomly ? or i should buy another ram of 1066mhz bus speed.

Thanks.

Muhammad Talha - Antwort

The front side buss speed is 1066mhz so that the speed the board talks to everything including memory, it can't talk any faster so putting 1333mhz will run at 1066mhz. So I would go with 1066mhz and save your money. If you also make sure you firmware for the board is up-to-date and you are running latest OS it can take you should've able to run 16GB ram, even if apple say it only supports 8GB. If you get the correct ram you can run 16GB that's what I have in mine running high Sierra. In have same system as you. You may also want to think about adding a solid state drive in place of the drive that's in with will probably be a mechanical drive. Believe me you will seen the difference in speed when the system starts up etc.

Gordon -

Hi,

My macbook has somewhat of a week bottom ram stick holders. The stick pops right out when being mounted into it’s slot.

Is this a known problem? is there a good mechanical solution for this other than taping the ram stick down? maybe bending in the holders or something?

Thanks!

mrtalglazer - Antwort

Hallo Walter,

ich habe das gleiche Model und habe mir vor 1,5 Jahren eine 256 SSD Platte und 2x 8 GB 1066 GHz RAM Erweiterung einbauen lassen.Leider hatte ich dann immer Abstürze bzw “Kernel panics”. Bis wir einfach die neuen RAM´s raus und die alten 2x2 GB Ram wieder eingesetzt haben und siehe da, seit dem läuft das MBP ohne Murren.

Nur ist die Performance bißchen dürftig und auf el Capitan geht auch alles gut. Aber ich möchte gerne auf Sierra umstellen und deshalb würde ich gerne wissen, ob eine Erweiterung auf 16 GB tatsächlich geht und ob es an der Marke der RAM liegen kann? Mit welchen 2x8 GB hast Du gute Erfahrung gemacht oder soll ich sicherheitshalber doch nur auf 2x4 GB gehen?

Herzlichen Dank für Deinen Rat.

furby_luzzie - Antwort

Translation of furby_luzzie’s comment:

Hello Walter,

I have the same model and 1.5 years ago I installed a 256 SSD disk and 2x 8 GB 1066 GHz RAM extension. Unfortunately I always had crashes or "kernel panics". Until we just put out the new RAM's and used the old 2x2 GB Ram again and lo and behold, since then the MBP is running without a grunt.

Only the performance is a bit poor and everything goes well on El Capitan. But I would like to switch to Sierra and therefore I would like to know if an extension to 16 GB is actually possible and if it can be due to the brand of RAM? With which 2x8 GB did you have good experience or should I just go to 2x4 GB for safety?

Thank you for your advice.

ted - Antwort

Kommentar hinzufügen

Statistik anzeigen:

Letzte 24 Stunden: 33

Letzte 7 Tage: 200

Letzte 30 Tage: 1,152

Insgesamt: 190,130