Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch einer defekten MagSafe Gleichspannungsversorgungs-Platine (DC-in Board) gezeigt.

Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben:
  • Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben:

    • Drei 14,4 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben

    • Drei 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben

    • Vier 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Ansatzschrauben

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur - Antwort

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12 - Antwort

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314 - Antwort

You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Antwort

Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

Seji the veggie -

What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

pmhparis -

The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

Dan -

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe - Antwort

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb - Antwort

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker - Antwort

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk - Antwort

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex - Antwort

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle - Antwort

Hello MacWorld,

Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

wer 10/5/15

tayseer999 - Antwort

I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

GotMac - Antwort

Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

taylornya - Antwort

on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

Maximilian Klotz - Antwort

I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

gilded yak - Antwort

Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

Jack - Antwort

I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

Michael Wilkens -

I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

rodrigosady - Antwort

I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

Michael Wilkens -

I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

Stephen Smith - Antwort

A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

Wilder Torres - Antwort

Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

airshack - Antwort

when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

Matt - Antwort

It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

Luca Giancarli - Antwort

The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

Don Cely - Antwort

Two screw types:

______________________________

Shouldered Unshouldered

xxxxxxx……….xxxxxxx

..xxxxx……..….…….x…….

…..x……..…...……….x…….

…..x…………....……..x…….

______________________________

El Crashitan - Antwort

If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

Patrick Langvardt - Antwort

Löse mit den Fingern in der Nähe vom Ventilator die Gehäuse-Unterseite vom Hauptteil des Gehäuses.
  • Löse mit den Fingern in der Nähe vom Ventilator die Gehäuse-Unterseite vom Hauptteil des Gehäuses.

  • Entferne die Gehäuse-Unterseite.

If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

Thanks for your help.

Mikell - Antwort

bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

Shi Feng - Antwort

Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

Claire Rapp -

Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

Volkan Ogul - Antwort

  • Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  • Es ist hilfreich, beide kurzen Seiten des Anschlusses gleichzeitig nach oben zu hebeln. Sei vorsichtig mit den Ecken des Anschlusses, da diese sehr leicht abbrechen können.

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh - Antwort

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull -

Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

stiknrudder -

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton - Antwort

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes -

Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

stiknrudder -

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv - Antwort

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter - Antwort

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John - Antwort

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu - Antwort

What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

Anrothan -

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans - Antwort

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

aekinaka - Antwort

Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

MacProUser - Antwort

Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

Simon Mundy - Antwort

I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

Zeerachen - Antwort

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

Ed Oliver - Antwort

DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

Bradley Marks - Antwort

Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

nichoferr - Antwort

Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

Mfernandez - Antwort

This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

wassberg -

Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

Stephen Smith - Antwort

I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

Raymond Rinaldi - Antwort

Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

Marijke de Vries - Antwort

The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165

B T - Antwort

I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

airshack - Antwort

Hello!

Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

Myzcio - Antwort

  • Biege das Akkukabel vorsichtig weg vom Sockel des Logic Boards, damit es sich nicht aus Versehen beim Arbeiten wieder verbindet.

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes - Antwort

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel - Antwort

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes - Antwort

I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

Stephen Smith - Antwort

That's a good tip

Anrothan -

Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

Ian Thal - Antwort

One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

lelandjordon - Antwort

does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

Darren Rose - Antwort

  • Nutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Lüfters vorsichtig vom Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

  • Es ist hilfreich den Spudger ein bisschen unter den Lüfterkabeln zu drehen, um das Kabel vorsichtig vom Anschluss zu trennen.

  • Der Anschluss und der Stecker sind im zweiten und dritten Bild zu sehen. Achte darauf, dass du den Anschluss nicht vom Logic Board abbrichst, wenn du den Stecker mit dem Spudger gerade nach oben hebest.

  • Das Layout des Logic Boards, das im zweiten Bild gezeigt wird, kann etwas anders aussehen als in deinem MacBook, aber der Anschluss ist identisch.

Can the socket be soldered back if broken? Or am I screwed? Can I use the laptop without the fan?

ricardosaez395 - Antwort

I have the same question, looks like instead of "unplugging" these micro connections, I accidentally pried it off the Board instead. Harumph. Can these be fixed?

Steve White - Antwort

I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

Scott Stanley - Antwort

Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

Thomas Carr - Antwort

This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

Carolyn Ryan - Antwort

For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

airshack - Antwort

I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

jcundy2 - Antwort

  • Entferne folgende drei Schrauben, die den Lüfter auf dem Logic Board befestigen:

    • eine 7,2 mm T6 Torx Schraube

    • zwei 5,3 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

These are T5 screws

dbell316 - Antwort

I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

billytalentlovexo -

No they are T6

tweakland - Antwort

Nope just tried a T6 and its too big, don't have a T5 but it's gotta be one

billytalentlovexo -

It would be helpful to have recommendations about how to clean the dust from inside. What places to direct the compressed air,

garyrclark - Antwort

Forget the dust inside: replace the fan for about $15! Here’s what I ordered and it worked perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

airshack - Antwort

Wah. My screws got rounded out and the old fan is stuck in now. Anybody have a solution to get them out without frying the logic board? It definitely seems as if locktite has been used here. Has anybody else found evidence to support that?

Jimbo - Antwort

  • Achte auf die Kabel und hebe den Lüfter vorsichtig aus seiner Aussparung auf dem Logic Board.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Ziehe das Kabel zum rechten Lautsprecher/Subwoofer mit der Spudgerspitze unter dem im oberen Gehäuse eingeformten Haltebügel heraus.

  • Ziehe das Kabel hoch, um den Verbinder aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board zu heben.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Löse das Kamerakabel vom Logic Board.

  • Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche der Platine. Wenn du das Kabel nach oben ziehst, kannst du das Kabel oder das Logic Board beschädigen.

The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

townbull - Antwort

Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

Larry Horton - Antwort

IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

James - Antwort

  • Löse folgende vier Kabel:

    • AirPort/Bluetoothkabel

    • Kabel zum optischen Laufwerk

    • Festplattenkabel

    • Kabel zum Trackpad

  • Um die Kabel zu lösen, musst du mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers ihre Verbinder aus den Sockeln auf dem Logic Board heben.

On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

Larry Horton - Antwort

Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

Hans - Antwort

  • Klappe die Halteklappe am Sockel des ZIF Verbinder des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel oder dem Spudger nach oben.

  • Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur die Halteklappe selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel.

  • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel mit der Spudgerspitze aus dem Sockel.

Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

Derek Cowan - Antwort

No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

maccentric -

I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

David - Antwort

Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

Gryyphyn -

Amazing this saved me!

Felipe Cordero -

David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

simolinic - Antwort

if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

Jacob - Antwort

i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit

works great!

mark Andrews - Antwort

After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

Ruedi Schubarth - Antwort

“Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.” <=== perhaps the best suggestion I’ve read in years!

airshack - Antwort

The tape trick works. Since we’re in the middle of a home renovation project I used a piece of painters tape that was lying around. It doesn’t really stick to the cable but it just gives you that extra grip.

Rob Kruit - Antwort

I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.

nikowesome - Antwort

Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.

Zakary Womack - Antwort

Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

domhnallk - Antwort

  • Wenn vorhanden, musst du den kleinen schwarzen Klebestreifen über dem Sockel des Verbinder der Tastaturbeleuchtung abziehen.

The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

airshack - Antwort

  • Klappe die Halteklappe auf dem ZIF Verbinder der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit dem Spudger oder dem Fingernagel nach oben.

  • Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur die Halteklappe selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel.

  • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Tastaturbeleuchtung aus seinem Sockel.

The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

airshack - Antwort

  • Ziehe den Verbinder zum Ruhesensor/Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

Hello Guys , I accidently Broke the Cable , is there a replacement for it?

dewa - Antwort

the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

Matt - Antwort

  • Fasse die Plastikzuglasche auf dem Sicherungsbügel des Displaydatenkabels an und drehe ihn in Richtung des DC-in Anschlusses des Computers.

  • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  • Ziehe das Kabel nicht nach oben, denn sein Sockel ist sehr empfindlich. Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche der Platine.

Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

Leo Jose - Antwort

On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

"Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

Larry Horton - Antwort

Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

Hans -

Probably a long shot but can this cable be replaced? I think i broke mine

Ahmad z - Antwort

Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.

mark Andrews - Antwort

My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

Any reason?

Nitin Sonwal - Antwort

My display is also not working after reassembly. External monitor works, but the internal display doesn't.

Chris - Antwort

I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

Justin Patterson - Antwort

I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

airshack - Antwort

when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

Matt - Antwort

  • Entferne folgende neun Schrauben:

    • Fünf 3,6 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 4,3 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 7,2 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

  • Bei einigen Modellen sind die Schrauben, wie folgend beschrieben, unter Umständen etwas kürzer:

    • Fünf 3,0 mm Torx T6 Schrauben

    • Zwei 3,6 mm Torx T6 Schraube n

    • Zwei 6,7 mm Torx T6 Schrauben

2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

starf1970 - Antwort

I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

GotMac -

2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

rubenwiersma - Antwort

lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

msvicious510 - Antwort

For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

gregory mogle - Antwort

There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm

sebdominguez - Antwort

for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

Levi Hoover - Antwort

  • Entferne folgende zwei Schrauben:

    • Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 5,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

  • Entferne die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels vom oberen Gehäuse.

The last screw is the onde that's getting me. Been trying to take it out for half an hour...

leotowers - Antwort

  • Das Mikrofon ist am oberen Gehäuse festgeklebt. Löse es vorsichtig mit einer Spudgerspitze vom Kleber.

The mic adhesive was the only adhesive which seemed diminished by disassembly. I don’t know what apple uses for internal adhesive but I finished the project wishing I had some to secure this mic assembly a little better.

airshack - Antwort

Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

Rob Kruit - Antwort

  • Passe auf die vielen Anschlüsse am Rand auf und hebe das Logic Board am Ende beim optischen Laufwerk hoch.

  • Biege die Platine nicht, wenn du sie aus dem Gehäuse heraushebst. Achte auf die flexible Verbindung zur DC-in Platine, die sich am Gehäuse verfangen könnte.

  • Entferne das Logic Board.

I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

Jean F - Antwort

I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

Shaun - Antwort

Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

fasthans - Antwort

It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

fasthans - Antwort

I got the microphone cable out fine, but what I'm really struggling with is the camera cable - it doesn't seem to wanna come out and I don't want to force it because I know it's fragile. Anyone find a trick for this?

ingwis - Antwort

I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

tony perry - Antwort

I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

Carlos De Bernard -

I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

ej257lgt -

There is one flexible metal plate near each connector probably a grounding plate which can get bend while pulling out the logic board. I had one of them bend but fortunately it didn't break off.

Leo Jose - Antwort

Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

justfinditjoshyip - Antwort

Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/

Denise Vondy -

If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

Larry Horton -

I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

EUNAE JO - Antwort

The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.

airshack - Antwort

The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Antwort

Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Antwort

  • Ziehe das MagSafe Versorgungskabel in Richtung des Kühlkörpers hin, um es vom Logic Board zu lösen.

  • Ziehe nicht nach oben. Wenn du den Stecker nach oben ziehst, könnte der Sockel vom Logic Board abgebrochen werden.

  • Entferne die MagSafe Gleichspannungsversorgungsplatine.

My experience with the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes me suggest paying close attention to how the DC-in board's cabling is situated as you remove the motherboard from the computer, especially in relation to the microphone and the display data cable retainer. The replacement DC-in board I used had fabric wrapping around the individual cables to the motherboard. Consequently, there is more material to navigate between these parts on reassembly.

I managed to make it work, but if I had paid more attention to exactly how the cable was routed before removing the original, reassembly might have been easier.

Larry Horton - Antwort

DC-in board remplacement ok, BUT, now S and Q keys don’t work anymore… Don i have to change the upper case or something else to do before ??

ROS - Antwort

It took me a while  to work up the courage to take this project on….after I’d received  the part from eBay.  I was  concerned about finding a way to get my daughter’s photos and documents retrieved before taking it on.  My dilemma was that there didn’t seem to be a way to charge the battery, which  only had about 5% left.  I used a 276gb flash drive to transfer  the essential  stuff using the remaining battery life.  Then I took the project on.  For a while, I still couldn’t get the bright green or amber light to come on, but just left the laptop plugged in with the dimmest green light showing on the magsafe charger.  After a few days, the battery charged up (almost like a slow trickle charge).  I fiddled with resetting  few things, per several suggestions, to no avail.  Today, however, out of a clear blue sky, I plugged the charger into the magsafe port and it turned green, then amber for the first time, and started charging pretty fast.  It seems a bit finicky about how it rests in the socket. Go for it!

Carolyn Ryan - Antwort

Hi Carolyn, I am in the same boat as you. I have the parts, just waiting for the courage ! I have already replaced the battery and the trackpad without any issues. Just concerned about breaking anything in the disassembly process. Maybe Apple make these parts so delicate on purpose so that its not user friendly to easily replace without risk (otherwise everyone would be doing it themselves right - no fun or $ for Apple !).. Wish you were here to guide me through the process (knowing that you have already been there, done that ! so to speak !). Cheers Ron

Ron - Antwort

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After reassembling my macbook pro, the screen goes black. I can hear the sound when turns on but nothing is shown on the screen. How do I know if i broke the cable when I took it out from the connector because it was working fine before openning my mac?

Erick Corredor - Antwort

just open it again, check the cable that is connected to your monitor if its connected if not connect if so you probably broke it :/

Hampus Cronholm -

Hi Can you please share the link from where I can buy this? or the part number of magsafe board?

Macbook pro 13’ mid 2012 (MD101HN/A)

Vivekananda Naragund - Antwort

Piece of cake, took an hour or so, but I was being extra careful. The only sticky part were the backlight cable and the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket, those two items I found fiddly to get re-inserted properly. Thanks for the tutorial.

Alan Gates - Antwort

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