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Einleitung

Wird dein MacBook Pro mit Retina Display zu warm? Das könnte auf ein Problem mit dem Kühlkörper hinweisen. Benutze diese Anleitung, um den Kühlkörper im MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mitte 2015 zu entfernen.

Vergiss nicht, die Wärmeleitpaste zu entfernen und wieder aufzutragen, falls du den Kühlkörper ausbaust. Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie das geht.

  1. Entferne die folgenden P5 Pentalobe Schrauben, mit denen das untere Gehäuseteil am MacBook Pro befestigt ist:
    • Entferne die folgenden P5 Pentalobe Schrauben, mit denen das untere Gehäuseteil am MacBook Pro befestigt ist:

    • Acht 3,1 mm

    • Zwei 2,3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Antwort

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Antwort

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - Antwort

    Thank you for this info, you’ve probably saved a lot of time, and hassle (myself included, if I end up going through with this repair).

    Andrew Poindexter -

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - Antwort

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - Antwort

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - Antwort

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - Antwort

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit - Antwort

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - Antwort

  2. Von der Kante, die dem Scharnier am nächsten liegt, hebst du das untere Gehäuseteil vom MacBook Pro weg. Von der Kante, die dem Scharnier am nächsten liegt, hebst du das untere Gehäuseteil vom MacBook Pro weg.
    • Von der Kante, die dem Scharnier am nächsten liegt, hebst du das untere Gehäuseteil vom MacBook Pro weg.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - Antwort

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    J G - Antwort

  3. Das untere Gehäuse hat zwei Plastikstifte (rot), die in die Plastikklammern im oberen Gehäuse passen (orange). Beim Wiedereinbau die Mitte des unteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten drücken, um das Gehäuse wieder an die beiden Kunststoffklammern anzubringen. Beim Wiedereinbau die Mitte des unteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten drücken, um das Gehäuse wieder an die beiden Kunststoffklammern anzubringen.
    • Das untere Gehäuse hat zwei Plastikstifte (rot), die in die Plastikklammern im oberen Gehäuse passen (orange).

    • Beim Wiedereinbau die Mitte des unteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten drücken, um das Gehäuse wieder an die beiden Kunststoffklammern anzubringen.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Antwort

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Antwort

    You don't have to take so many steps.

    santa1234 - Antwort

    I have magnets- is this the wrong guide?

    Benjamin Jones - Antwort

  4. Ziehe den  Aufkleber ab, der den Akkustecker abdeckt.
    • Ziehe den Aufkleber ab, der den Akkustecker abdeckt.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Antwort

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - Antwort

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - Antwort

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Antwort

    It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

    Kelv - Antwort

    You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

    AJ Lorenzo - Antwort

  5. Hebe vorsichtig jede Seite des Akkusteckers an, um ihn aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board herauszuziehen. Biege den Stecker in Richtung Akku zurück, und stelle sicher, dass der Akkustecker nicht versehentlich mit dem Logic Board in Berührung kommt. Biege den Stecker in Richtung Akku zurück, und stelle sicher, dass der Akkustecker nicht versehentlich mit dem Logic Board in Berührung kommt.
    • Hebe vorsichtig jede Seite des Akkusteckers an, um ihn aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board herauszuziehen.

    • Biege den Stecker in Richtung Akku zurück, und stelle sicher, dass der Akkustecker nicht versehentlich mit dem Logic Board in Berührung kommt.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Antwort

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Antwort

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - Antwort

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - Antwort

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - Antwort

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - Antwort

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

    Kelv - Antwort

    For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

    J G - Antwort

  6. Ziehe die Gummiabdeckung vom rechten Lüfter ab und klappe sie aus dem Weg. Ziehe die Gummiabdeckung vom rechten Lüfter ab und klappe sie aus dem Weg.
    • Ziehe die Gummiabdeckung vom rechten Lüfter ab und klappe sie aus dem Weg.

  7. Ziehe die Gummiabdeckung vom linken Lüfter ab und klappe sie aus dem Weg. Ziehe die Gummiabdeckung vom linken Lüfter ab und klappe sie aus dem Weg.
    • Ziehe die Gummiabdeckung vom linken Lüfter ab und klappe sie aus dem Weg.

  8. Entferne die kleine Gummikappe von der Schraube am Ende des Kühlkörpers. Entferne die kleine Gummikappe von der Schraube am Ende des Kühlkörpers.
    • Entferne die kleine Gummikappe von der Schraube am Ende des Kühlkörpers.

    I lost this little cap. Will this cap cause any issues?

    diego - Antwort

  9. Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die den Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigen:
    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die den Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Eine 3,8 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Zwei 3,4 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

    • Wenn du diese Schrauben entfernst, lösen sich die elastischen Metallklammern, die den Kühlkörper sichern. Achte darauf, dass du die Schrauben nicht verlierst, wenn die Klammern aufspringen.

    • Eine 5,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    1. What are the dimenssions of the “Two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws“?

    2. Are there any alternative screws that can be used?

    Note: I am asking as inside my macbook I have the screws missing and I cannot manage to find them online, I just managed to find the springy metal brackets.

    Mihai Iusan - Antwort

    Remove also the screw for the video card if fitted!

    Petar Dzhuninski - Antwort

    Attention, sur les modèles 2015 avec 2 cartes graphiques (carte Radeon et Intel), il faut aussi dévisser 4 vis autour de la carte AMD. L’implantation est légèrement différente de la photo présentée. La puce AMD est située à droite du processeur.

    Rémi GILLE - Antwort

  10. Drehe die beiden Federklemmen weg vom Kühlkörper. Entferne den Kühlkörper aus dem MacBook Pro.
    • Drehe die beiden Federklemmen weg vom Kühlkörper.

    • Entferne den Kühlkörper aus dem MacBook Pro.

    • Vor dem Wiedereinbau müssen jegliche Rückstände alter Wärmeleitpaste vom Kühlkörper und der CPU entfernt und neue Wärmeleitpaste aufgetragen werden. Folge dazu dieser Anleitung.

    Dual graphics card versions have a secondary heat sink with clamps right next to the CPU. Unlike CPU clamps, this one has four screws in four edges. All four need to be removed to release the heatsink altogether. Be careful about the springy metal brackets as they can shoot the screws to the other side of the room never to be found again.

    Firat Birlik - Antwort

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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On my macbook Pro 2015 it has an extra Square on the heatsink to cover the graphics card. So the Pictures does not look right on this guide. I would share my pictures but it’s not possible in the comments.

Mark Barner - Antwort

I don’t have much to add other than that these squares on the GPU and CPU were hindering my ability to completely clean off the previous thermal paste. I actually would like to remove the squares, but would like to hear from folks who might have a sense of how essential it is for thermal transfer (or any other purpose it serves).

Rahul S -

Hey guys when I refreshed the thermal paste on my 2015 15” (top spec) mbp, I noticed four little metallic sponges in that area, one of those came off… I still have it, how critical is it? Should I replace it? If so are there any guides?

Many thanks

AlexMorse - Antwort

I have the same issue as well— 2 of mine came off, and I just stuck them back where they were before and let the pressure of the heat sink hold it in place for now. But any expertise on this issue is appreciated!

Rahul S -

Hola el mio tiene un disipador con 4 tornillo para el Chip Grafico a diferencia de este.

vparra - Antwort

Attention sur certains modèles, il y a 2 cartes graphiques, donc 4 vis à dévisser en plus, et la pâte thermique à mettre sur la carte AMD également.

Enorme différence de température de processeur suite à cette opération, 20° de moins ! Les ventilateurs ne s’allument plus intempestivement.

Je conseille à tous ceux qui ont les ventilateurs qui se mettent en marche à la moindre occasion.

Rémi GILLE - Antwort

I’ve done this method earlier today. Took out the old thermal paste and added a new one and now my fans blast at full speed for no apparent reason even on idle and the processor is throttled. Is there a solution?

Jason Madrigal - Antwort

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