Einleitung

Der Austausch des oberen Gehäuses erfordert den Ausbau von fast allen internen Bauteilen des MacBook Pros.

Entferne die 10 Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.
  • Entferne die 10 Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.

    • Drei 13,5 mm (14,1 mm) Kreuzschlitz Schrauben.

    • Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben.

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - Antwort

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

xtophr -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - Antwort

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - Antwort

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - Antwort

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - Antwort

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - Antwort

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - Antwort

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - Antwort

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - Antwort

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - Antwort

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - Antwort

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - Antwort

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Danno - Antwort

Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?

If so, what is the best way to do this?

Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.

Sibyl Smith - Antwort

I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

Pete Banks - Antwort

Hebe das untere Gehäuse nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an, damit sich die beiden Clips lösen, die es mit dem oberen Gehäuse verbinden.
  • Hebe das untere Gehäuse nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an, damit sich die beiden Clips lösen, die es mit dem oberen Gehäuse verbinden.

  • Entferne das untere Gehäuse und lege es zur Seite.

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - Antwort

What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

michael - Antwort

16 GB is the max

Bradon Kelley -

Bei bestimmten Reparaturen (z.B. der Festplatte) ist es zwar nicht nötig den Akku zu trennen, es verhindert aber einen versehentlichen Kurzschluss von elektronischen Bauteilen auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du den Akku nicht abtrennst, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein, da eben manche Komponenten noch unter Spannung stehen können. Benutze die Kante eins Spudgers um den Akkustecker nach oben aus seinem Anschluss zu hebeln.
  • Bei bestimmten Reparaturen (z.B. der Festplatte) ist es zwar nicht nötig den Akku zu trennen, es verhindert aber einen versehentlichen Kurzschluss von elektronischen Bauteilen auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du den Akku nicht abtrennst, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein, da eben manche Komponenten noch unter Spannung stehen können.

  • Benutze die Kante eins Spudgers um den Akkustecker nach oben aus seinem Anschluss zu hebeln.

  • Es ist hilfreich, an den beiden kurzen Seiten des Steckers zu hebeln, um ihn so schrittweise aus seinem Anschluss herauszulösen.

nails work pretty well as well...

Sibe Jan Kramer - Antwort

At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

Other than that, an excellent guide!

Damienn - Antwort

the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

the hard drive changing worked though.

nina - Antwort

Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.

Patrick.

Patrick Demaret - Antwort

So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

Shelly - Antwort

Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

Duke Briscoe -

I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

Jaime Serafim - Antwort

Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

xtophr -

My battery won't work after reconnecting it, I made sure everything was done as stated, what can I do to fix this?

r1m111 - Antwort

My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

Mazo - Antwort

I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

Dave Kitabjian - Antwort

Biege das Akkukabel leicht von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board weg, damit es sich nicht versehentlich wieder selbst verbindet, während du arbeitest.
  • Biege das Akkukabel leicht von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board weg, damit es sich nicht versehentlich wieder selbst verbindet, während du arbeitest.

Move battery removal step to this point in upper case replacement guide.

Paul Palm - Antwort

Entferne die drei 3,4 mm T6 Torx Schrauben, die den linken Ventilator am Logic Board befestigen.
  • Entferne die drei 3,4 mm T6 Torx Schrauben, die den linken Ventilator am Logic Board befestigen.

    • In einigen Modellen können diese T6 Torx Schrauben auch 3,1 mm lang sein.

Je vais juste vous surprendre car je suis français.

JI'll just surprise you because I am French .

I understood the problem of the left fan. In fact the problem is with the design at Apple. The fan housing is too narrow vertically a few tenths of millimeters. This is why so many problems . The left fans deteriorate very quickly.

The solution is very simple. Buy a new fan in China, it is the cheapest and level it's very fast delivery . Warning it comes fan already used but in good condition.

The thing to do is to over- raise the fan does not rub and deteriorating. To do so just buy a zinc washer 3 mm diameter available from my local hardware store ( € 3 for 70 pieces ) and place it under the black screw fully right and top right . The over- elevation leads to no longer have friction effect.

Thats ALL !!!

olivierbartoli - Antwort

on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

Bryan Chun - Antwort

Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Verbinder des linken Ventilators vom Logic Board zu lösen Es ist hilfreich, den Spatel mittig unterhalb der Ventilatorkabeldrähte zu verdrehen, um den Stecker zu lösen. Verbinder und Anschluss des Ventilators  sind im zweiten und dritten Bild zu sehen. Passe auf, nicht den  Plastikanschluss des Ventilators vom Logic Board abzubrechen, wenn du den Ventilatorstecker mit einem Spudger gerade nach oben und aus dem Anschluss hebst.
  • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Verbinder des linken Ventilators vom Logic Board zu lösen

  • Es ist hilfreich, den Spatel mittig unterhalb der Ventilatorkabeldrähte zu verdrehen, um den Stecker zu lösen.

  • Verbinder und Anschluss des Ventilators sind im zweiten und dritten Bild zu sehen. Passe auf, nicht den Plastikanschluss des Ventilators vom Logic Board abzubrechen, wenn du den Ventilatorstecker mit einem Spudger gerade nach oben und aus dem Anschluss hebst.

  • Das Layout des Logic Board in Bild 2 kann bei deinem Computer leicht anders aussehen, aber der Ventilatoranschluss ist der gleiche.

I successfully removed my right fan, cleaned it and installed it back. But when it came to the left one I accidentally broke the connector from the logic board. Now I'm left with only one functioning fan. I'm using an external laptop fan. Do I have to replace the whole logic board or can it be fixed somehow? My temp is between 90-95 C when I run a heavy game.

khalid alodan - Antwort

I made the same mistake! Did you solve it?

Rosario - Antwort

In case anyone else accidentally breaks a fan connector, check the comment on step #14. It is basically the same connection, so that should work here.

Relevant part of comment - “To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.”

John - Antwort

Hebe den linken Ventilator aus dem oberen Gehäuse.
  • Hebe den linken Ventilator aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Hebe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Verbinder des rechten Ventilators aus seinem Sockel  auf dem Logic Board.
  • Hebe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Verbinder des rechten Ventilators aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  • Am besten geht das, indem du den Spudger unter den Drähten des Ventilatorkabels ansetzt und dann entlang seiner Achse verdrehst, um den Verbinder zu lösen.

Of course, this is not the right fan but the left in the picture.

maccentric - Antwort

Managed to break off a fan connector. Really poor mistake there, as it really is not too hard. Follow exactly like the picture and realize that it lifts up! But good news, I managed to break one of the least important parts and the computer still runs fine!

Sam - Antwort

Entferne die drei 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) Torx T6 Schrauben, die den rechten Ventilator am Logic Board befestigen. Hebe den rechten Ventilator aus seiner Öffnung im Logic Board.
  • Entferne die drei 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) Torx T6 Schrauben, die den rechten Ventilator am Logic Board befestigen.

  • Hebe den rechten Ventilator aus seiner Öffnung im Logic Board.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe das Kamerakabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
  • Ziehe das Kamerakabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  • Hebe das Kabel dabei nicht senkrecht hoch. Wenn du das tust kannst du Kabel und Logic Board beschädigen. Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards heraus.

One can see how to remove the cable in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Better than pull is to push it with something like a screwdrive at the small angle left and right.

Alex Nevell - Antwort

Hebe den Airport/Bluetooth Verbinder mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
  • Hebe den Airport/Bluetooth Verbinder mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

Am I the only one but my MacBook has black shielding on the CD-R drive, not some clear tape stuff to reveal the internals on the drive….

Vincent Mahler - Antwort

Hebe den Verbinder zum optischen Laufwerk mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
  • Hebe den Verbinder zum optischen Laufwerk mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

Mine had a little adhesive strip behind the connector. Pull gently

nicholasmcroberts - Antwort

Löse das Kabel zur Festplatte/IR Sensor aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board, indem du unter dem Verbinder anhebst.
  • Löse das Kabel zur Festplatte/IR Sensor aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board, indem du unter dem Verbinder anhebst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Hebe den Verbinder des Subwoofers/rechten Lautsprechers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
  • Hebe den Verbinder des Subwoofers/rechten Lautsprechers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  • Setze zum Hebeln unter den Drähten an.

Be really, really careful detaching this connector - make sure it's lifted from the cable side. I managed to remove the whole lot from the logic board by accident. On mine it was disguised under a lump of rubber foam.

To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.

afoster - Antwort

There is foam on the top of this connector. Do not pry up from under that. Instead, put your spudger underneath the red and black wires themselves and pry up. Very little resistance.

Alex Grayson - Antwort

Die Abdeckung über dem  Tastatur/Trackpadkabel ist mit zwei 1,5 mm (1,2 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben auf dem Logic Board befestigt. Drehe sie heraus. Hebe die Abdeckung ab und lege sie zur Seite.
  • Die Abdeckung über dem Tastatur/Trackpadkabel ist mit zwei 1,5 mm (1,2 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben auf dem Logic Board befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

  • Hebe die Abdeckung ab und lege sie zur Seite.

Be sure to use the right size screwdriwer, as these screws might be hard to remove. I ended up having to cut the metal cover and bend it away as the screws wouldn't come loose.

That works too however..

dmitri - Antwort

I ended up using a #000 phillips screwdriver instead of the #00. I was able to get this piece up without issue.

Dave Bruhn - Antwort

I bought ph#00 screwdriver and it doesn't work for all phillips screws. Just buy #000 phillips screwdrive for all phillips screws.

ozhan - Antwort

Can I get it work with PH#00?

Utsav Dusad - Antwort

I was able to skip this step, along with 16, 17, & 18, and complete the repair successfully. Instead of fully removing the logic board as described in step 22, I lifted the left edge and then wiggled it left until I could lift it from the hinge edge; this gave me plenty of room to see what I was doing while removing and replacing the DC-in board.

Sarah Dunlap - Antwort

@Sarah Dunlap. Yes, I did the same, it entirely possible ( although fiddly ) to complete this repair without fully removing the Logic board and instead lifting it out of the way taking care not to put too much tension on the keyboard ribbon cable.

bill borez - Antwort

Heble  den Verbinder zum Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
  • Heble den Verbinder zum Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Klappe die Halteklappe des ZIF Verbinders des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit  dem Fingernagel hoch. Klappe nur die scharnierartige Klappe hoch, keinesfalls den Sockel selbst.
  • Klappe die Halteklappe des ZIF Verbinders des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel hoch.

  • Klappe nur die scharnierartige Klappe hoch, keinesfalls den Sockel selbst.

  • Löse das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur mit der Spitze des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel.

Need a better picture of the zif connector. You lift the lock from the side farthest from the flat cable, and it lifts toward the cable. When reinserting be sure to get the cable all the way or you may have only half the keyboard working.

Jim - Antwort

Definitely should have read this comment before I cracked the ZIF socket…

Joshua Vande Walle -

I could use some advice on reinserting the ZIF cable firmly in its socket. I can get it started, but getting it far enough in to make contact is difficult, given its flexibility. Any tips on manipulating it?

CJ Attias - Antwort

I used a piece of sticky tape that I attached to the ZIF cable, then pulled firmly on the tape (attached to the cable) to get the ZIF cable to seat properly. The tape held to the cable, the ZIF cable seated properly, and the keyboard worked.

robertemcgee -

getting the cable back in was leaps and bounds more difficult than this entire replacement job! be very very careful and note that it goes alllll the way in. i bent the ribbon like crazy, but the keyboard still seems to work fine!

shmianco - Antwort

REINSERTING THIS CABLE WAS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST DIFFICULT STEP IN THIS WHOLE PROCESS!

Key points:

•Make sure that it's inserted evenly. It's tempting to get one edge in, and then the other, but that approach will prevent it from seating properly.

•The cable goes all the way in. There is maybe 1/16" of the little grooves showing, but not much more.

•Once the cable is properly seated, use a piece of tape to pull it all the way in, and keep the tension on the tape as you use a sprudger to flip down the retaining flap.

•It's a fragile connection, and if you break the cable it's a top-case or keyboard replacement, which is either expensive or a PITA, so patience is key.

Kyle - Antwort

It's very easy to do this step incorrectly. Make sure to use your fingernail and pry gently. This was the only step I felt didn't have a great explanation and damaging the part could easily happen.

tgphotosales - Antwort

I messed up and broke the connector. Here is part of a video showing in close-up how to remove it properly (different model Mac, same connector). Wish I had seen it before I tried it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

wizzart - Antwort

Thank you for posting that video link. You saved me a lot of frustration!

disneyfunteacher -

Thanks for posting the video. Made it much clearer how to disconnect and save damage!

Gareth Aschenbrenner -

When they say "retaining flap", they are referring to a square plastic clip that hinges to the clip on the board. Starts at 7:15 in the video.

kevicoll409 -

Thanks a lot! Great video

Sean Kandel -

I needed that video. Thanks

Justin Brisotto -

Thank you to everyone who commented about this step. I did not have any trouble doing this but I could have. Also for all the excellent clarification especially the tips on reinserting the ribbon cable which I have yet to do after I hopefully fix the logic board

Peter Newman - Antwort

When they say "pull" the cable, they mean to "slide" it. Do not lift and pull.

kevicoll409 - Antwort

Attaching a small piece of tape and pulling parallel to motherboard did the trick.

Brian Blair - Antwort

I had trouble getting the cable out (let alone back in!) In the end, sliding a toothpick in behind the ribbon and gently pulling from both sides of the toothpick did the trick.

Kal - Antwort

On reassembly, I realise why it was so hard to get out—I had not lifted the retaining flap, thinking they just meant the flap of tape. Not well illustrated in the photo. The retaining flap is the long bit of plastic opposite the ribbon (closer to the fans).

Kal - Antwort

I acquired a macbook pro with a cut trackpad wire and no battery. In looking at this layout my concern is… what if the connection is pulled from the hinge and the hinge to hold it into place is completely missing?

Anthony Eliseo - Antwort

Löse den Verbinder der Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
  • Löse den Verbinder der Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Fasse die Zuglasche aus Kunststoff, die an der Sicherung des Displaykabels befestigt ist, und drehe sie in Richtung der Seite mit der  Stromeingangsbuchse am Computer. Ziehe das Displaykabel aus seinem Sockel auf deLogic Board.
  • Fasse die Zuglasche aus Kunststoff, die an der Sicherung des Displaykabels befestigt ist, und drehe sie in Richtung der Seite mit der Stromeingangsbuchse am Computer.

  • Ziehe das Displaykabel aus seinem Sockel auf deLogic Board.

  • Ziehe das Kabel nicht hoch, da der Sockel sehr empfindlich ist. Ziehe parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

The metallic flap controlled by the plastic handle looks like it could easily break... a safer route is to grab the shielded cable after rotating the metal flap out of socket and gently pry it out of the socket by applying force parallel to the logic board. It will probably take a few minutes but you could save yourself some gray hairs.

This is the hardest step IMO

brbulic - Antwort

Indeed this s the hardest step.its not clear from the instruction that there are two elements to this component. The connector and also a metal retaining clip that needs to be rotated off the connector first.

mail - Antwort

this was the hardest part of the dismantling for me. it's not super obvious in the pictures that there is a hinge and the metal piece, attached with tape, swings over and towards the DC-in.

shmianco - Antwort

I found it easiest to grab the connector where the hinged metal piece connected to the body.

Replacing this connector was a bit fiddly, as you have to make sure it's lined up exactly before pushing it in, and because pushing it in requires a bit of force.

Kyle - Antwort

"Pull the cable straight" means to slide the connector out, do not lift and pull. Also, check for a square locking clip attached to the plug, if it won't come out.

kevicoll409 - Antwort

I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (one 8.6 phillips, you can see a photo in the display replacement tutorial) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important). Those are REALLY flimsy (i just broke one without being brutal and believe me you don't want to change it).

Bonachera - Antwort

I found it helpful to remove the bracket for the display cable to allow more movement of the cable when attempting to reassemble

Justin Brisotto - Antwort

Really great site!! replaced a LB in an mid 2010 MBP with kernal panic crash. Fixed! No issues with detailed procedure and comments. So I'll add one for this step. This was the simplest step really. Additional clues. (Wish I could post a pix). Look at the gold conn in the pix above. Note that the cable mates with the conn with the 2 tabs each side showing full insertion. The silver retainer pops up, bar away from the cable. Using my custom tool, a small screw driver, filed really small as I don't have a #000 Phillips, release the retainer, then carefully wedge open the tab on each side, inserting your "tool" in the slot. Neatly and slowly, the conn comes apart. Putting it back together, once the conn is alligned, just push alternately on each tab. Doesn't take much effort, better that pushing on the cable. I also appreciate the comment that removing the clamp, both clamps with one screw actually, makes this easier.

Bruce Rayner - Antwort

This is indeed a tricky step. First time, after following all the steps and reassembling I had no screen, which freaked me out. Luckily, another go at the connector did the trick and now I’m a happy owner of a macbook with a new trackpad. Thanks!

Balazs Gobel - Antwort

This step is really unclear! After grabbing what I thought was the “plastic pull tab” and having it come off in my hand, I was clueless about how to proceed. After puzzling over it for about 15 minutes, I saw the actual “plastic pull tab”, which was against the mother board near the fan. Pulling this upward unlocked the metal hinge and everything else was obvious after that.

xtophr - Antwort

I agree, this step was unclear. Part of the problem may be variations between logic boards. Mine did not look like the one pictured here. Mine has a tab lying flat against the logic board, as also described by xtophr. If this describes yours, check out [|this video] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-IE3WNOsrZ... (around 40 seconds in) to see exactly how it comes out. You lift the locking clip up by the plastic tab, then (with a little bit of downward pressure on the cable) slide it out towards the nearest corner of the machine.

Kal - Antwort

Klappe die Halteklappe am ZIF Anschluss des Flachbandkabels der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit der Spitze des Spudgers hoch. Achte darauf, dass du wirklich nur die scharnierartige Klappe, nicht den Sockel selbst hochklappst.
  • Klappe die Halteklappe am ZIF Anschluss des Flachbandkabels der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit der Spitze des Spudgers hoch.

  • Achte darauf, dass du wirklich nur die scharnierartige Klappe, nicht den Sockel selbst hochklappst.

  • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung aus seinem Sockel.

Connector slides out, do not lift and pull.

kevicoll409 - Antwort

any replacement parts available for this? I pulled up instead of sliding cable :(

Allen Jenkins - Antwort

This step would benefit from a macro view of hinged retaining flap and clarification. The instruction about flipping up the hinged retaining flap is misleading people into trying to flip out the ribbon.

Frank Wilson - Antwort

Drehe folgende neun Schrauben heraus:
  • Drehe folgende neun Schrauben heraus:

    • Sieben 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) T6 Torx Schrauben auf dem Logic Board

    • Zwei 8 mm T6 Torx Schrauben auf dem DC-In Board

Remove T6 (smaller) screws first, that was the last screwdriver that you used (for smooth workflow).

kevicoll409 - Antwort

Hebe die ganze Einheit mit dem Logic Board vorsichtig auf der linken Seite an und aus dem Gehäuse heraus. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich das Kabel des optischen Laufwerks und die I/O Ports nicht verfangen. Trenne falls nötig das Mikrofon mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers  vom oberen Gehäuse. Ziehe die Seite des Logic Boards mit den I/O Ports seitlich vom Gehäuse weg und entferne die ganze Logic Board Einheit.
  • Hebe die ganze Einheit mit dem Logic Board vorsichtig auf der linken Seite an und aus dem Gehäuse heraus. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich das Kabel des optischen Laufwerks und die I/O Ports nicht verfangen.

  • Trenne falls nötig das Mikrofon mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom oberen Gehäuse.

  • Ziehe die Seite des Logic Boards mit den I/O Ports seitlich vom Gehäuse weg und entferne die ganze Logic Board Einheit.

I had a little difficulty pulling the motherboard before the battery. I'm not sure why you would want to do it in the order listed here, but doing steps 23 and 24 first helped the board come out easier.

maccentric - Antwort

The thing that caught me on this step was that, at least on mine, the speaker box was glued/taped to the case, and so I got rather nervous trying to remove the logic board as it wouldn't move until said adhesive was pried apart. Thank goodness I knew the difference between the sounds of "board breaking" and "adhesive separating", but this step was still rather harrowing for me.

Joseph Sikorski - Antwort

The microphone cable was easy to pry off the logic board for disassembly. For re-assembly, I was having a heck of a time getting the connector to connect to the logic board. There just isn't enough room to get your hands and tools in there and still see what you're doing (unless you're a dentist and you're used to that kind of thing). Anyway, I finally got brave and pulled the round, rubberized microphone from the case. I connected the short cable to the logic board, set the microphone in the made-for-the-microphone housing on the logic board, hoping it would stick itself back to the case once the logic board was in position, and I was back in business. In this case, simply stating "reverse these steps for reassembly" wasn't very forthcoming.

robk64 - Antwort

Pulling the microphone off the case is key to reassembling. Place the mic back into the cut-away in the speaker housing and plug the connection into the backside of the logic board

Justin Brisotto -

thx graciaaaas :)

driveremule -

When I did this step the microphone was REALLY STUCK to the upper case, it actually stayed stuck to it and disconnect "itself" from the mother board while I was lifting up everything.

Finally, there was no damage : I separated the microphone from the upper case while reassembling, then connected it back to the mother board and put it on its housing.

Greg - Antwort

Count the number of connectors as you remove the board, so that when you put it back one does not get lost under the board and you can't figure out why it won't go in. You should do this.

kevicoll409 - Antwort

If you laptop was getting hot when charging then be extra careful in this step because the foam pad under the logic board my have started to fuse to the casing. If the pad seems stuck then use a knife to gently pry it up.

Jereme Shaver - Antwort

I wish I'd read the comment on the items being stuck to the surface below

Mazo - Antwort

I have the same case with Joseph Sikorski - it's hard to pull out the mother board because the speaker is glued that I thought their are remaining screws that hook in to it. Better use flat spudger to pry the right side that is stuck when you pull the left upward first.

Auldz Buss - Antwort

Repairing a friend’s laptop… I wonder if the “glue” between the speaker and case is actually juice or soda, lol

Sarah Ybarra - Antwort

This part was highly stressful. The microphone/left speaker assembly are fused to the underside of the logic board. As you are facing the project according to the layout in these photos, the mike assembly is on the right side of the logic board, towards the top end. It is fused to the logic board but it also has adhesive sticking it to the upper case. As you lift, you have to insert a long spudger flat end down into that corner and move it back and forth between the mike assembly and the upper case, and it will release. Be very patient, focused, and slow. The spare part I bought from iFixIt had an extra speaker there in case I messed up, but I did not need it.

jruedas - Antwort

Entferne die beiden 7,5 mm (7,2 mm) Tri-point Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.
  • Entferne die beiden 7,5 mm (7,2 mm) Tri-point Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

The battery is very fragile here--during my repair the plastic holding all three screws broke off. I just put the battery and screws back in without the plastic surrounding them and it worked fine, but my warranty is probably void now.

johnjuenemann - Antwort

These screw holders were broken when I opened it up, it seems a common problem. I used a very tiny dab of strong glue to put the holding rings back onto the battery. When I replaced the battery they were held in place more by the push of the screws than by the glue, so I have no worries about them coming loose. Their main purpose is just to get the spacing correct from what I can see.

jruedas - Antwort

Ziehe vorsichtig den Warnaufkleber des Akkus vom oberen Gehäuse zwischen Akku und optischen Laufwerk ab. Dadurch wird eine weitere Tri-point Schraube sichtbar.
  • Ziehe vorsichtig den Warnaufkleber des Akkus vom oberen Gehäuse zwischen Akku und optischen Laufwerk ab. Dadurch wird eine weitere Tri-point Schraube sichtbar.

  • Entferne die letzte 7,5 mm (7,2 mm) Tri-point Schraube, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse sichert.

  • Entferne den Warnaufkleber nicht vom Akku.

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Am Akku ist eine Plastikzuglasche angebracht. Ziehe daran, um den Akku aus dem oberen Gehäuse zu entfernen.
  • Am Akku ist eine Plastikzuglasche angebracht. Ziehe daran, um den Akku aus dem oberen Gehäuse zu entfernen.

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Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Festplattenhalterung am oberen Gehäuse befestigen. Diese Schrauben bleiben in der Festplattenhalterung hängen.
  • Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Festplattenhalterung am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

  • Diese Schrauben bleiben in der Festplattenhalterung hängen.

  • Entferne die Festplattenhalterung vom oberen Gehäuse.

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An der Festplatte ist eine Zuglasche befestigt. Hebe die Festplatte damit aus dem oberen Gehäuse.
  • An der Festplatte ist eine Zuglasche befestigt. Hebe die Festplatte damit aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

  • Entferne sie noch nicht ganz, sie ist immer noch mit dem Festplattenkabel angeschlossen.

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Ziehe den Festplattenstecker von seinem Sockel auf der Festplatte. Ziehe am Stecker, nicht am Kabel selbst.
  • Ziehe den Festplattenstecker von seinem Sockel auf der Festplatte.

  • Ziehe am Stecker, nicht am Kabel selbst.

  • Entferne die Festplatte und lege sie zur Seite.

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Entferne folgende vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche das Kabel zur Festplatte/Infrarotsensor am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:
  • Entferne folgende vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche das Kabel zur Festplatte/Infrarotsensor am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 2,5 mm (2,9 mm) Schrauben

    • Zwei 10 mm (9,6 mm) Schrauben

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Löse das Infrarotsensorkabel vorsichtig aus der Verklebung zum oberen Gehäuse. Ziehe die Festplattenhalterung/Infrarotsensorgehäuse weg von der Seite des oberen Gehäuses.
  • Löse das Infrarotsensorkabel vorsichtig aus der Verklebung zum oberen Gehäuse.

  • Ziehe die Festplattenhalterung/Infrarotsensorgehäuse weg von der Seite des oberen Gehäuses.

  • Entferne das Festplattenkabel/Infrarotsensorkabel vom oberen Gehäuse.

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Hebele die vier Antennenstecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus ihren Sockeln auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte. Hebele die vier Antennenstecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus ihren Sockeln auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.
  • Hebele die vier Antennenstecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus ihren Sockeln auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.

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Löse alle vier Antennenkabel aus ihren Kanälen im AirPort/Bluetooth Gehäuse. Löse das Kamerakabel aus seinem Kanal im AirPort/Bluetooth Gehäuse.
  • Löse alle vier Antennenkabel aus ihren Kanälen im AirPort/Bluetooth Gehäuse.

  • Löse das Kamerakabel aus seinem Kanal im AirPort/Bluetooth Gehäuse.

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Entferne folgende zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben: Eine 8,6 mm (8,4 mm) Schraube
  • Entferne folgende zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben:

    • Eine 8,6 mm (8,4 mm) Schraube

    • Eine 3,9 mm Schraube

  • Entferne die AirPort/Bluetooth Einheit vom oberen Gehäuse. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.

For me the red one was a T6 not a Philips

nicholasmcroberts - Antwort

Entferne die drei 3,5 mm (3,3mm) Torx T6 Schrauben, die das optische Laufwerk am oberen Gehäuse befestigen. Hebe das optische Laufwerk in der Nähe des Steckers an und ziehe es weg vom oberen Gehäuse, um es so vom Computer zu entfernen.
  • Entferne die drei 3,5 mm (3,3mm) Torx T6 Schrauben, die das optische Laufwerk am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

  • Hebe das optische Laufwerk in der Nähe des Steckers an und ziehe es weg vom oberen Gehäuse, um es so vom Computer zu entfernen.

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Entferne die folgenden sechs Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die den Subwoofer und den rechten Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigen: Zwei 3,2 mm (3,0 mm) Schrauben
  • Entferne die folgenden sechs Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die den Subwoofer und den rechten Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 3,2 mm (3,0 mm) Schrauben

    • Zwei 12,3 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 2,5 mm Schraube

    • Eine 8,3 mm (8,1 mm) Schraube

  • Hebe die Einheit aus Subwoofer und rechten Lautsprecher aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

The 2.5 mm screw was on too tight from the factory or a previous repair, and would not come off. I had to heat a blade and slice around it. All the other screws came loose, so the subwoofer assembly came loose after slicing around the 2.5 mm. Then I was able to grip it with needlenoses and remove it. The 3.2 mm screws hold it down adequately so I did not replace the screw.

jruedas - Antwort

Entferne die 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche die Halterung des Antennen-/Kamerakabels am linken oberen Teil des oberen Gehäuses befestigt. Entferne die Halterung des Antennen-/ Kamerakabels aus dem oberen Gehäuse.
  • Entferne die 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche die Halterung des Antennen-/Kamerakabels am linken oberen Teil des oberen Gehäuses befestigt.

  • Entferne die Halterung des Antennen-/ Kamerakabels aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

  • Prüfe dein Ersatzteil: das Antennenkabel und die Platte, die am oberen Gehäuse angebracht sind, müssen vielleicht übertragen werden. Ziehe die Metallplatte sorgfältig ab, sie ist festgeklebt.

The screw goes through the ground loop of the bluetooth antennae.

maccentric - Antwort

The metal plate is very hard to detach and the cable soldered on it can get broken. If you need to transfer this part, take care of pulling the plate off putting a flat spudger under it. Eventually my cable got broken (hope to find a replacement now) so I can just harm you, not give a true hint on how to do it properly.

Tobia Ghiraldini - Antwort

One of the screws started stripping and was on too tight to come off. I noticed I did not need to transfer this part to my new case, so I went ahead and used a dab of lubricant, then gripped the rim of the screw laterally with the needlenoses. It came loose, and I was able to reuse it.

jruedas - Antwort

Entferne die 8,6 mm (7,0 mm)  Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels am oberen rechten Teil des oberen Gehäuses befestigt. Entferne die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels vom oberen Gehäuse.
  • Entferne die 8,6 mm (7,0 mm) Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels am oberen rechten Teil des oberen Gehäuses befestigt.

  • Entferne die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels vom oberen Gehäuse.

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Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, welche die rechte Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.
  • Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, welche die rechte Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

  • Eine Schraube haben wir absichtlich noch dringelassen, das erleichtert das weitere Vorgehen.

Take care on front-to-back alignment during reassembly or pins on bottom of data cable retainer will not fit in holes.

Paul Palm - Antwort

Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, welche die linke Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.
  • Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, welche die linke Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

  • Eine Schraube haben wir absichtlich noch dringelassen, das erleichtert das weitere Vorgehen.

Take care on front-to-back alignment during reassembly or pins on bottom of data cable retainer will not fit in holes.

Paul Palm - Antwort

Öffne das MacBook Pro so, dass das Display rechtwinklig zum oberen Gehäuse steht.
  • Öffne das MacBook Pro so, dass das Display rechtwinklig zum oberen Gehäuse steht.

  • Stelle das geöffnete Gerät wie gezeigt auf den Tisch.

  • Halte Display und oberes Gehäuse mit der linken Hand zusammen. Drehe dann die verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube aus der oberen Displayhalterung.

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Achte darauf, das Display mit dem Gehäuse weiterhin mit der Hand zusammenzuhalten. Wenn du das nicht tust, kann das Display/obere Gehäuseteil herunterfallen und unter Umständen kann jede Komponente  beschädigt werden.
  • Achte darauf, das Display mit dem Gehäuse weiterhin mit der Hand zusammenzuhalten. Wenn du das nicht tust, kann das Display/obere Gehäuseteil herunterfallen und unter Umständen kann jede Komponente beschädigt werden.

  • Drehe die letzte verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube, die das Display noch am oberen Gehäuse befestigt, heraus.

I placed the top case, keyboard side down, on a table with the display draped over the edge at 90-degrees. I can support the screen with my knees and have full-view of and comfortable access to the 6 mounting screws, as well as the antenna cables. The is especially more stable position in the re-attachment process.

Douglas Ling - Antwort

Fasse das obere Gehäuseteil mit der rechten Hand an und drehe es leicht in Richtung Oberkante des Displays. Dadurch kommt die obere Displayhalterung vom Gehäuse frei. Drehe das Display leicht weg vom Gehäuse. Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom oberen Gehäuseteil, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Halterungen oder Kabel verfangen.
  • Fasse das obere Gehäuseteil mit der rechten Hand an und drehe es leicht in Richtung Oberkante des Displays. Dadurch kommt die obere Displayhalterung vom Gehäuse frei.

  • Drehe das Display leicht weg vom Gehäuse.

  • Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom oberen Gehäuseteil, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Halterungen oder Kabel verfangen.

Put the replacement new upper body alongside the one just removed from the computer. Switch across to the new body the microphone and keyboard retaining brace bar. Double check that all clips items remaining on the old board are on the new one!

mail - Antwort

Bevor du weiter arbeitest musst du prüfen, ob bei deinem Ersatzteil die Akkuanzeige installiert ist. Wenn das nicht der Fall ist, musst du die Akkuanzeige übertragen.
  • Bevor du weiter arbeitest musst du prüfen, ob bei deinem Ersatzteil die Akkuanzeige installiert ist. Wenn das nicht der Fall ist, musst du die Akkuanzeige übertragen.

    • Halte an dieser Stelle an, wenn die Akkuanzeige am Ersatzteil angebracht ist.

  • Entferne die drei 2,0 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, welche die Akkuanzeige am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

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Hebele vorsichtig mit der Spudgerspitze die Kante der Metallabschirmung, welche das Kabel der Akkuanzeige bedeckt, hoch. Die Metallabschirmung ist nur leicht am oberen Gehäuse angeklebt, sie sollte sich ohne größere Anstrengungen ablösen lassen.
  • Hebele vorsichtig mit der Spudgerspitze die Kante der Metallabschirmung, welche das Kabel der Akkuanzeige bedeckt, hoch.

  • Die Metallabschirmung ist nur leicht am oberen Gehäuse angeklebt, sie sollte sich ohne größere Anstrengungen ablösen lassen.

  • Diese Metallabschirmung musst du vielleicht auf dein Ersatzteil übertragen.

  • Achte darauf, dass du beim Ablösen nicht das Kabel der Akkuanzeige beschädigst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die Akkuanzeige. Das Kabel der Akkuanzeige ist leicht am oberen Gehäuse angeklebt. Benutze das flache Ende des Spudgers und löse es vorsichtig, um es zu entfernen.
  • Entferne die Akkuanzeige.

  • Das Kabel der Akkuanzeige ist leicht am oberen Gehäuse angeklebt. Benutze das flache Ende des Spudgers und löse es vorsichtig, um es zu entfernen.

  • Passe auf, dass sich das Kabel der Akkuanzeige nicht an der Metallabschirmung verhakt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die Taste der Akkuanzeige.
  • Entferne die Taste der Akkuanzeige.

  • Achte beim Einbau in dein Ersatzteil auf die Orientierung: die größere glänzende Seite zeigt nach außen.

  • Je nachdem, wie dein Ersatzteil ausgerüstet ist, musst du vielleicht noch das Trackpad übertragen. Unsere Anleitung zeigt, wie du das Trackpad entfernen und übertragen kannst.

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Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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