Einleitung
Durch den Austausch eines defekten Displays erhältst du ein neues LCD, die vordere Glasscheibe, die Displayeinfassung, die iSight-Kamera und neue AirPort Antennen.
Was du brauchst
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Entferne die zehn Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.
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Drei 13,5 mm (14,1 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben.
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Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.
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Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an und löse es so von den beiden Clips, die es mit dem Gehäuseoberteil verbinden.
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Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil und lege es zur Seite.
16 GB is the max
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Der Akku ist mit zwei 7,4 mm TriPoint-Schrauben am oberen Gehäuse befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.
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Beachte: Bei bestimmten Reparaturen (z.B. der Festplatte) ist es nicht nötig, den Akku zu entfernen. Es verhindert aber versehentliche Kurzschlüsse in der Elektronik auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du den Akku nicht entfernst, sei besonders vorsichtig, da Teile auf dem Logic Board unter Strom stehen könnten.
A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.
I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.
The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.
I believe they are Y1 screws, no?
Mark -
What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!
A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).
I had a cheap Tri-wing screw driver. The one that comes with the “Newertech“ battery. It did not make the job and it rather damaged the screws. Panic! I decided to buy the screwdriver sold by ifixit, the German one, not the other. At any point did I want more surprises. Yes it’s pretty expensive, but equally useful even with the screws already damaged. Thanks guys!
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Löse mit der Fingerspitze vorsichtig die Ecke des Warnaufklebers, um eine verborgene TriPoint-Schraube freizulegen.
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Entferne die letzte 7,4 mm TriPoint-Schraube, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigt.
It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.
Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.
Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."
To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...
Thanks for that warning, Andrew.
Happened here too, thanks for the tip!
As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.
Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?
One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.
James -
Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver
Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)
I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?
new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.
Is this a battery from iFixit?
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Hebe den Akku an der Plastikzuglasche an und schiebe ihn von der langen Seite des oberen Gehäuses weg.
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Kippe den Akku weit genug vom Logic Board, um an den Akkuanschluss zu gelangen.
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Ziehe den Akkuanschluss von seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board und entferne den Akku vom oberen Gehäuse.
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Lade ihn auf 100% und lasse ihn mindestens zwei weitere Stunden am Ladegerät. Ziehe den Stecker und benutze dein MacBook normal, um den Akku zu entladen. Wenn die Ladeanzeige am Minimum ist, dann speichere ab und lasse den Laptop an, bis er von selbst ausgeht. Warte wenigstens 5 Stunden und lade dann ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.
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Wenn dir nach der Installation deines neuen Akkus etwas Ungewöhnliches auffällt oder Probleme auftreten, kann es sein, dass du den SMC deines MacBooks zurücksetzen musst.
I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.
Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?
I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.
Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.
Buen tutorial, solo advertir una cosa: los tornillos de la batería (Tri-point), en mi caso estaban muy duros.. atención si se usan destornilladores baratos.. mucho cuidado porque puedes dejar el tornillo imposible de extraer..
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Heble das AirPort/Bluetooth-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
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Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
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Löse die drei Antennenstecker mit der Spudgerspitze von der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.
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Löse alle drei Antennenkabel aus ihren Kanälen in der AirPort/Bluetooth Halterung.
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Fädle das Kamerakabel aus seinem Kanal in der AirPort/Bluetooth Halterung.
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Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit der die AirPort/Bluetooth Einheit am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Eine 3,8 mm Schraube
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Eine 8,6 mm Schraube
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Entferne die AirPort/Bluetooth Einheit vom oberen Gehäuse. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.
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Entferne die 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Halter des Antennen-/Kamerakabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
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Entferne den Halter des Antennen-/Kamerakabels vom oberen Gehäuse.
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Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, mit der die rechte Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
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Fasse die Plastikzuglasche an der Verriegelung des Displaydatenkabels und kippe sie nach oben über den Stecker in Richtung der Seite am Computer mit der Gleichstromversorgung (DC-in).
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Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
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Entferne die 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Halter des Displaydatenkabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
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Entferne den Halter des Displaydatenkabels vom oberen Gehäuse.
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Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, mit denen die linke Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
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Öffne das MacBook Pro so, dass das Display rechtwinklig zum oberen Gehäuse steht.
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Stelle das geöffnete Gerät wie gezeigt auf den Tisch.
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Halte Display und oberes Gehäuse mit der linken Hand zusammen. Drehe dann die verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube aus der oberen Displayhalterung.
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Drehe die letzte verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube, die das Display noch am oberen Gehäuse befestigt, heraus.
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Fasse das obere Gehäuseteil mit der rechten Hand und drehe es leicht in Richtung Oberkante des Displays. Dadurch löst sich die obere Displayhalterung von der Kante des oberen Gehäuses.
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Drehe das Display leicht vom oberen Gehäuse weg.
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Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom oberen Gehäuseteil, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Halterungen oder Kabel verfangen.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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10 Kommentare
I am trying to put the display back together but I realised that the new display from ifix it has 3 cables to conect when only two spaces are available please advice ?
Are you talking about the antenna wires? The longest two go in the same track.
The video cable in my MacBook Pro is a bit frayed. This was caused by the hinges being loose or missing screws. I replaced/tightened all the screws, but because of the fraying, the video signal is degraded. It flickers, sometimes loses some colors, or loses half its pixels.
It's finicky. If I put the bottom chassis on an close up the MacBook Pro, the video cable gets pinched enough to ensure the video degradation. However if I keep the bottom off, and keep the video cable positioned just so, not so crowded, then the video signal is fine. However the machine is not much of a laptop if you have to use it with the bottom off, without moving it.
I can get a spare video cable from a junker, but I don't have the heat lamp and suction cups, and anyway am not sure I want to attempt to dissamble the display assembly. Are there any things I can do to improve the functioning of the video cable in place, without replacing it?
I did try wrapping the frayed cable in Sugru. It did not resolve the issue.
I have the exact same question: I would like to reuse the mid-2009 display on a 2010 mac book pro … I see the connections are slightly different: I don’t think the mid 2009 display has a dedicated wire for the camera (which I don’t necessary need at the end …) but I don’t know if the mid-2009 display is compatible with the 2010 motherboard ?
Same here. iFixit please reply on this.
Can we do this? Can we replace the upper casse display of mid-2009 to mid-2010?
Thank you.
Fayyaz B -
I have a MacBook Pro 15” mid 2010. I’m in the process of replacing the keyboard and when I removed the diplay cable mounting bracket, a little spring of sorts popped out. I’m trying to find how it should be replaced, but I’m puzzled. Any ideas?
the third one is for the antenna near the optical drive slit, it may have gotten stuck underneath the odd so check under there
Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.
Bizarre much?
Will - Antwort
It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)
Andrew Janke -
I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!
xtophr -
I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.
leonie - Antwort
Great advise! Love it! :)
Ririds -
I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.
Now I use these:
http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...
The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.
Richard Sato -
I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.
Roscoe -
I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.
jelimoore -
Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.
maccentric -
I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.
Nils -
@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.
Roger - Antwort
Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.
So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.
wresnick - Antwort
Hi,
Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.
H Stahl -
MacBookPro8,2
Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB
Mountain Lion
May someone help me?
I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)
Piero - Antwort
To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually
1982sketcher -
Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!
- zerø K
zeroK - Antwort
a video of these steps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS9is40C...
julie56 - Antwort
These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.
Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.
Thanks!
Marcos - Antwort
During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed
kusi - Antwort
There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.
Print the repair guide.
Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.
When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.
You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.
Same thing with any part you remove.
splashzoneent - Antwort
Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!
Tommy Kedar -
Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!
nclarke36 -
Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.
It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...
SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .
SOME TRICKS -
1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.
2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.
3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.
cheers- Durango CO!
Dgodrummer - Antwort
Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...
kevicoll409 - Antwort
The link above is no longer available.
Kristina Graham -
I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.
Pete Banks - Antwort
The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!
jsandersonq - Antwort
This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.
iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?
Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.
Norman Gray -
(The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)
Norman Gray -
You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.
Steven Wymor -
To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.
Kristina Graham - Antwort
If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.
Alan Waller - Antwort
There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.
Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.
Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.
Alan Waller - Antwort
The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.
Martin Mejia -
After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com
Ian Black - Antwort