Zum Hauptinhalt wechseln

MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen

Was du brauchst

  1. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen, Gehäuseunterteil: Schritt 1, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die zehn Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.

    • Drei 13,5 mm (14,1 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    • Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    • Schaue dir beim Ausdrehen der Schrauben genau an, wie sie leicht schräg herauskommen. Beim Zusammenbau muss das genauso sein.

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will - Antwort

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie - Antwort

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger - Antwort

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick - Antwort

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero - Antwort

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK - Antwort

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos - Antwort

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi - Antwort

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent - Antwort

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer - Antwort

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks - Antwort

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq - Antwort

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.

    iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?

    Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.

    Norman Gray -

    (The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)

    Norman Gray -

    You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.

    Steven Wymor -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham - Antwort

    If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.

    Alan Waller - Antwort

    There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.

    Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.

    Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.

    Alan Waller - Antwort

    The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.

    Martin Mejia -

    After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com

    Ian Black - Antwort

  2. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 2, Bild 1 von 1
    • Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an und löse es so von den beiden Clips, die es mit dem Gehäuseoberteil verbinden.

    • Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil und lege es zur Seite.

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael - Antwort

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon - Antwort

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon - Antwort

  3. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen, Akkuanschluss: Schritt 3, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen, Akkuanschluss: Schritt 3, Bild 2 von 2
    • Bei bestimmten Reparaturen (z.B. der Festplatte) ist es zwar nicht nötig, den Akku zu trennen, wird aber dennoch empfohlen, da es einem versehentlichen Kurzschluss von elektronischen Bauteilen auf dem Logic Board vorbeugt. Wenn du den Akku nicht abtrennst, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein, da manche Komponenten noch unter Spannung stehen können.

    • Benutze die Kante eines Spudgers, um den Akkustecker nach oben aus seinem Anschluss zu hebeln.

    • Es ist hilfreich, an den beiden kurzen Seiten des Steckers zu hebeln, um ihn so schrittweise aus seinem Anschluss herauszulösen.

    nails work pretty well as well...

    Sibe Jan Kramer - Antwort

    At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

    It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

    Other than that, an excellent guide!

    Damienn - Antwort

    the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

    the hard drive changing worked though.

    nina - Antwort

    Any tool used to pry on the battery connector must be non metallic, to prevent unintentional short circuit between the connector pins. In my case, my index finger nails were strong enough.

    Martin Mejia -

    Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.

    Patrick.

    Patrick Demaret - Antwort

    So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

    Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

    Shelly - Antwort

    Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

    Duke Briscoe -

    I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

    Jaime Serafim - Antwort

    Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

    xtophr -

    Office Depot will take any batteries and dispose of them for free

    silas -

    My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

    Mazo - Antwort

    I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

    Dave Kitabjian - Antwort

    I used the spudger to gently ease the battery connector out. I then placed a q-tip between the connector and it’s socket to avoid making an accidental connection. A toothpick or some other soft stick might also work.

    Kristina Graham - Antwort

    My battery connector had a shiny metal cover over it like a male USB plug. I had to take the 3 peace symbol screws oit and remove the battery before I could access thr plug properly. My battery plug also came off parallel to the board by walking the black plastic part off the metal part towards the battery. It required quite a bit of force to walk it off the connector. I broke a spudger trying. Something nonconductive but strong like a wittled down bamboo chopstick could work well.

    Pii - Antwort

    Translate to Spanish:

    Para ciertas reparaciones (por ejemplo, el disco duro), no es necesario desconectar el conector de la batería, pero evita cualquier cortocircuito accidental de la electrónica en la placa base. Si no desconecta el conector de la batería, tenga cuidado ya que partes de la placa base pueden estar electrificadas.

    Use el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    Es útil hacer palanca hacia arriba en ambos lados cortos del conector para "sacarlo" de su zócalo.

    Pakito Villaseñor - Antwort

    The BATTERY MUST BE DISCONNECTED - it is NOT OPTIONAL if you are going to remove the logic board.

    These instructions are for Removing The Logic Board, so if that is what you are going to do the battery MUST be disconnected.

    The informational item beginning with the words “For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary … “ is NOT applicable to a set of instructions on removing a logic board and it should be deleted from this otherwise excellent set of instructions.

    Michael Walsh - Antwort

    In my opinion the RAM should be removed first - i.e., before the battery is removed.

    The RAM DIMMS are just in the way if they are left in their sockets on the logic board until step 33.

    I cannot see any useful reason to not remove them very early in the sequence.

    Michael Walsh - Antwort

    I disconnected the battery because it is an opportunity to reset the SMC (which is how the SMC has to be reset in some older Macs.)

    Barb - Antwort

  4. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 4, Bild 1 von 1
    • Biege das Akkukabel leicht von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board weg, damit es sich nicht versehentlich wieder selbst verbindet, während du arbeitest.

    My battery connect was like mid 2010 model

    Iain Friend - Antwort

    Why not go ahead and remove the battery at this point instead of bending the battery connector back (see steps 23 -25 below)?

    BilMcKelvy - Antwort

    Translate to Sanish: Doble el cable de la batería ligeramente lejos de su zócalo en la placa lógica para que no se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabaja.

    Pakito Villaseñor - Antwort

  5. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen, Linker Lüfter: Schritt 5, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, die den linken Lüfter am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Zwei 3,5 mm T6 Torx Schrauben.

    • Eine 4,2 mm T6 Torx Schraube.

    Where can we get the required T6 Torx Screwdriver to do this?

    Darren Scott - Antwort

    Use the TR6 instead

    Troels Flensted - Antwort

  6. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 6, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 6, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 6, Bild 3 von 3
    • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des linken Lüfters vom Logic Board zu entfernen.

    • Es ist hilfreich, den Spudger unterhalb der Lüfterkabel etwas um seine Achse zu drehen, um den Stecker zu lösen.

    • Der Lüfteranschluss und der Stecker sind im zweiten und dritten Bild sehen. Achte darauf, nicht den Anschluss vom Logic Board zu brechen, wenn du den Spudger benutzt, um den Stecker gerade nach oben aus dem Anschluss zu heben.

    • Das Layout des Logic Boards im zweiten Bild kann bei deinem Gerät ein wenig anders aussehen, aber der Lüfteranschluss ist derselbe.

    Mine had all three screws the same length (3.5 mm I believe)

    Rusty Simmons - Antwort

    power connections for the fan connect vertically into the logic board, rather than being pulled parallel to the board. Inserting spudger and rotating underneath the wires helps the connect pop up.

    hyde244 - Antwort

    @rustys same here. had some replacement screw’s also with the torx t6 and they also where all the same size. So nevermind i guess if your fans are working well.

    butch coolidge - Antwort

  7. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 7, Bild 1 von 1
    • Hebe den linken Lüfter aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.

  8. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen, Logic Board: Schritt 8, Bild 1 von 1
    • Hebe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Verbinder des rechten Ventilators aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Am besten geht das, indem du den Spudger unter den Drähten des Ventilatorkabels ansetzt und dann entlang seiner Achse verdrehst, um den Verbinder zu lösen.

    Of course, this is not the right fan but the left in the picture.

    maccentric - Antwort

    Managed to break off a fan connector. Really poor mistake there, as it really is not too hard. Follow exactly like the picture and realize that it lifts up! But good news, I managed to break one of the least important parts and the computer still runs fine!

    Sam - Antwort

  9. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 9, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 9, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne die drei 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) Torx T6 Schrauben, die den rechten Ventilator am Logic Board befestigen.

    • Hebe den rechten Ventilator aus seiner Öffnung im Logic Board.

    After doing this remove the iSight connection; it’s the thin strip located at the bottom of the speaker socket. You can carefully pull it out.

    Jirosworld - Antwort

  10. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 10, Bild 1 von 1
    • Ziehe das Kamerakabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Hebe das Kabel dabei nicht senkrecht hoch. Wenn du das tust kannst du Kabel und Logic Board beschädigen. Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards heraus.

    One can see how to remove the cable in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Better than pull is to push it with something like a screwdrive at the small angle left and right.

    Alex Nevell - Antwort

    Before doing this remove the iSight connection; it’s the thin strip located at the bottom of the speaker socket. You can carefully pull it out.

    Jirosworld - Antwort

  11. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 11, Bild 1 von 1
    • Hebe den Airport/Bluetooth Verbinder mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Am I the only one but my MacBook has black shielding on the CD-R drive, not some clear tape stuff to reveal the internals on the drive….

    Vincent Mahler - Antwort

  12. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 12, Bild 1 von 1
    • Hebe den Verbinder zum optischen Laufwerk mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Mine had a little adhesive strip behind the connector. Pull gently

    nicholasmcroberts - Antwort

    Also had an adhesive strip, thanks for mentioning it!

    Andrew Wong -

  13. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 13, Bild 1 von 1
    • Löse das Kabel zur Festplatte/IR Sensor aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board, indem du unter dem Verbinder anhebst.

  14. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 14, Bild 1 von 1
    • Hebe den Verbinder des Subwoofers/rechten Lautsprechers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Setze zum Hebeln unter den Drähten an.

    Be really, really careful detaching this connector - make sure it's lifted from the cable side. I managed to remove the whole lot from the logic board by accident. On mine it was disguised under a lump of rubber foam.

    To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.

    afoster - Antwort

    There is foam on the top of this connector. Do not pry up from under that. Instead, put your spudger underneath the red and black wires themselves and pry up. Very little resistance.

    Alex Grayson - Antwort

    Passe auf, nicht den Plastikanschluss des Lautsprechers vom Logic Board abzubrechen, wenn du den Stecker mit einem Spudger gerade nach oben und aus dem Anschluss hebst!

    Urs Wihler - Antwort

  15. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 15, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 15, Bild 2 von 2
    • Die Abdeckung über dem Tastatur/Trackpadkabel ist mit zwei 1,5 mm (1,2 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben auf dem Logic Board befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

    • Hebe die Abdeckung ab und lege sie zur Seite.

    Be sure to use the right size screwdriwer, as these screws might be hard to remove. I ended up having to cut the metal cover and bend it away as the screws wouldn't come loose.

    That works too however..

    dmitri - Antwort

    I ended up using a #000 phillips screwdriver instead of the #00. I was able to get this piece up without issue.

    Dave Bruhn - Antwort

    I bought ph#00 screwdriver and it doesn't work for all phillips screws. Just buy #000 phillips screwdrive for all phillips screws.

    ozhan - Antwort

    Can I get it work with PH#00?

    Utsav Dusad - Antwort

    I was able to skip this step, along with 16, 17, & 18, and complete the repair successfully. Instead of fully removing the logic board as described in step 22, I lifted the left edge and then wiggled it left until I could lift it from the hinge edge; this gave me plenty of room to see what I was doing while removing and replacing the DC-in board.

    Sarah Dunlap - Antwort

    @Sarah Dunlap. Yes, I did the same, it entirely possible ( although fiddly ) to complete this repair without fully removing the Logic board and instead lifting it out of the way taking care not to put too much tension on the keyboard ribbon cable.

    bill borez - Antwort

    I used the J000 bit (I think this is a JIS bit, not Phillips) for these screws and they seemed like a much better fit. It seems like the screws aren’t actually Phillips (ie. with the curved, cam-out corners) but are squared off.

    Andrew Wharton - Antwort

    On mine the small black piece of plastic directly south of the plate we just removed that is connected to the aluminum frame underneath by two screws was broken in the middle. Can’t find what this piece is called or what its purpose is. It swings open from the screws like a door because it is broken in the middle but it doesn’t seem to have intrinsic value other than filling up space and seems that it would be held in place by the battery and the plate and the logic board once assembled.

    Aaron - Antwort

    I ended stripping one of the screws with Phillips #00 and just bent the metal piece carefully up instead so I could disconnect the two connectors underneath it. These screws are awful!

    Andrew Wong - Antwort

    Aaron. The small black piece of plastic is one of two clips. The other is to the left of the one you mention. On the inside of the bottom case there are two small metal tabs that slip into these two black plastic clips.

    Michael Walsh - Antwort

    As a couple of others have mentioned (above), I too had trouble getting these two screws out too. My problem was that they had corroded and locked into their threaded sockets. Also, the corrosion had rotted out the inside shape of the Phillips slots so that no screwdriver would fit properly.

    I had to cut the cover down the middle and bend it up and out of the way.

    Michael Walsh - Antwort

    Hey I’m trying to find the screws for this step online through ebay or amazon. But I can’t find it.

    Is the screws the same as the one used on the trackpad, or the keyboard (ebay selling 100 pieces set)?

    Can anyone check?

    Johnny Sasaski - Antwort

  16. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 16, Bild 1 von 1
    • Heble den Verbinder zum Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  17. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 17, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 17, Bild 2 von 2
    • Klappe die Halteklappe des ZIF Verbinders des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel hoch.

    • Klappe nur die scharnierartige Klappe hoch, keinesfalls den Sockel selbst.

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur mit der Spitze des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel.

    Need a better picture of the zif connector. You lift the lock from the side farthest from the flat cable, and it lifts toward the cable. When reinserting be sure to get the cable all the way or you may have only half the keyboard working.

    Jim - Antwort

    Definitely should have read this comment before I cracked the ZIF socket…

    Joshua Vande Walle -

    this almost trigger panic button in my head, since after reassembly, my macbook wont turn on at all. turned out the keyboard zif cable is not fully inserted to the socket, and since power button is also connected through those flex, its no wonder it wont respond when i press it. Re-seat the zif flex and everything went great.

    Otniel Yoreiza -

    I could use some advice on reinserting the ZIF cable firmly in its socket. I can get it started, but getting it far enough in to make contact is difficult, given its flexibility. Any tips on manipulating it?

    CJ Attias - Antwort

    I used a piece of sticky tape that I attached to the ZIF cable, then pulled firmly on the tape (attached to the cable) to get the ZIF cable to seat properly. The tape held to the cable, the ZIF cable seated properly, and the keyboard worked.

    robertemcgee -

    getting the cable back in was leaps and bounds more difficult than this entire replacement job! be very very careful and note that it goes alllll the way in. i bent the ribbon like crazy, but the keyboard still seems to work fine!

    shmianco - Antwort

    REINSERTING THIS CABLE WAS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST DIFFICULT STEP IN THIS WHOLE PROCESS!

    Key points:

    •Make sure that it's inserted evenly. It's tempting to get one edge in, and then the other, but that approach will prevent it from seating properly.

    •The cable goes all the way in. There is maybe 1/16" of the little grooves showing, but not much more.

    •Once the cable is properly seated, use a piece of tape to pull it all the way in, and keep the tension on the tape as you use a sprudger to flip down the retaining flap.

    •It's a fragile connection, and if you break the cable it's a top-case or keyboard replacement, which is either expensive or a PITA, so patience is key.

    Kyle - Antwort

    It's very easy to do this step incorrectly. Make sure to use your fingernail and pry gently. This was the only step I felt didn't have a great explanation and damaging the part could easily happen.

    tgphotosales - Antwort

    I messed up and broke the connector. Here is part of a video showing in close-up how to remove it properly (different model Mac, same connector). Wish I had seen it before I tried it.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    wizzart - Antwort

    Thank you for posting that video link. You saved me a lot of frustration!

    disneyfunteacher -

    Thanks for posting the video. Made it much clearer how to disconnect and save damage!

    Gareth Aschenbrenner -

    When they say "retaining flap", they are referring to a square plastic clip that hinges to the clip on the board. Starts at 7:15 in the video.

    kevicoll409 -

    Thanks a lot! Great video

    Sean Kandel -

    I needed that video. Thanks

    Justin Brisotto -

    Veeerrrry subtle. This video saved me I think. Thank you!

    The key is between 7:33 and 7:36 but I didn’t catch it until the third watch.

    Aaron -

    Thank you to everyone who commented about this step. I did not have any trouble doing this but I could have. Also for all the excellent clarification especially the tips on reinserting the ribbon cable which I have yet to do after I hopefully fix the logic board

    Peter Newman - Antwort

    When they say "pull" the cable, they mean to "slide" it. Do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    Attaching a small piece of tape and pulling parallel to motherboard did the trick.

    Brian Blair - Antwort

    I had trouble getting the cable out (let alone back in!) In the end, sliding a toothpick in behind the ribbon and gently pulling from both sides of the toothpick did the trick.

    Kal - Antwort

    On reassembly, I realise why it was so hard to get out—I had not lifted the retaining flap, thinking they just meant the flap of tape. Not well illustrated in the photo. The retaining flap is the long bit of plastic opposite the ribbon (closer to the fans).

    Kal - Antwort

    I acquired a macbook pro with a cut trackpad wire and no battery. In looking at this layout my concern is… what if the connection is pulled from the hinge and the hinge to hold it into place is completely missing?

    Anthony Eliseo - Antwort

    The most difficult part was putting it back in. I read the comments and I used a piece of tape to help push it back in. Make sure it’s all the way in or else you wont be able to turn your mac on. About a hairline of the grooves were

    Cristina - Antwort

    The comment Kal left about lifting the retaining flap is key during reassembly!

    I, too, totally missed that there is a plastic “bar” covering the end of the pins. Without that lifted up, it’s %#*@ near impossible to push the connector in since the flap/bar is putting pressure downwards.

    With the retaining flap down, it comes out without too much effort. But putting it back in is a whole different story. Be sure to lift it up!

    Justin Blecher - Antwort

    For reinserting, just be patient, lining up the ribbon, keeping a good hold on the tab, and applying even pressure along the ribbon, slowly, firmly reinserting. If the power button doesn’t work when you put everything back together, you will know the ribbon needs better connection. I promise you can do it!

    hyde244 - Antwort

    Even with the warning, I tried to flip up the socket. It looks unusual, not a standard zif socket. Try gently pulling (not lifting!) the cable to see where the cable ends and the socket begins. There is more socket there and less cable then it looks!

    frnhr - Antwort

    ps, donʻt forget to LATCH the retaining flap back in place. i forgot and had to re-open the computer, was only getting the letter “H”. wasted 5 minutes for a 2 second slip up.

    Kahana - Antwort

    Thanks for this priceless comment. Had 8 dead keys. It occurred to me to check the comments here and, lo and behold, same here! Who needs adventure sports or drug taking for highs and lows.

    Rob -

  18. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 18, Bild 1 von 1
    • Löse den Verbinder der Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    It is not obvious which direction to pull. I pulled towards towards the center and pulled off the sponge handle. Easy to put back on. Pull towards the nearest corner.

    cvmiller21 - Antwort

  19. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 19, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 19, Bild 2 von 2
    • Fasse die Zuglasche aus Kunststoff, die an der Sicherung des Displaykabels befestigt ist, und drehe sie in Richtung der Seite mit der Stromeingangsbuchse am Computer.

    • Ziehe das Displaykabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Ziehe das Kabel nicht hoch, da der Sockel sehr empfindlich ist. Ziehe parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

    The metallic flap controlled by the plastic handle looks like it could easily break... a safer route is to grab the shielded cable after rotating the metal flap out of socket and gently pry it out of the socket by applying force parallel to the logic board. It will probably take a few minutes but you could save yourself some gray hairs.

    This is the hardest step IMO

    brbulic - Antwort

    Indeed this s the hardest step.its not clear from the instruction that there are two elements to this component. The connector and also a metal retaining clip that needs to be rotated off the connector first.

    mail - Antwort

    this was the hardest part of the dismantling for me. it's not super obvious in the pictures that there is a hinge and the metal piece, attached with tape, swings over and towards the DC-in.

    shmianco - Antwort

    I found it easiest to grab the connector where the hinged metal piece connected to the body.

    Replacing this connector was a bit fiddly, as you have to make sure it's lined up exactly before pushing it in, and because pushing it in requires a bit of force.

    Kyle - Antwort

    "Pull the cable straight" means to slide the connector out, do not lift and pull. Also, check for a square locking clip attached to the plug, if it won't come out.

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (one 8.6 phillips, you can see a photo in the display replacement tutorial) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important). Those are REALLY flimsy (i just broke one without being brutal and believe me you don't want to change it).

    Bonachera - Antwort

    I found it helpful to remove the bracket for the display cable to allow more movement of the cable when attempting to reassemble

    Justin Brisotto - Antwort

    Really great site!! replaced a LB in an mid 2010 MBP with kernal panic crash. Fixed! No issues with detailed procedure and comments. So I'll add one for this step. This was the simplest step really. Additional clues. (Wish I could post a pix). Look at the gold conn in the pix above. Note that the cable mates with the conn with the 2 tabs each side showing full insertion. The silver retainer pops up, bar away from the cable. Using my custom tool, a small screw driver, filed really small as I don't have a #000 Phillips, release the retainer, then carefully wedge open the tab on each side, inserting your "tool" in the slot. Neatly and slowly, the conn comes apart. Putting it back together, once the conn is alligned, just push alternately on each tab. Doesn't take much effort, better that pushing on the cable. I also appreciate the comment that removing the clamp, both clamps with one screw actually, makes this easier.

    Bruce Rayner - Antwort

    This made a difference for me. I put my arm behind the computer to pull the hinge and tape everything away from me out of my way and holding out with my thumb and walk each side and bit by bit using the tool. I’ll add be very careful that it is steady parallel force. Also if you can’t get the hinge clip down when the cable seems in try steady flat force across the clip of the hinge with the tool alternating with walking it in even more with your thumb on top holding it down so you don’t actually accidentally pry anything perpendicularly up.

    Aaron -

    This is indeed a tricky step. First time, after following all the steps and reassembling I had no screen, which freaked me out. Luckily, another go at the connector did the trick and now I’m a happy owner of a macbook with a new trackpad. Thanks!

    Balazs Gobel - Antwort

    This step is really unclear! After grabbing what I thought was the “plastic pull tab” and having it come off in my hand, I was clueless about how to proceed. After puzzling over it for about 15 minutes, I saw the actual “plastic pull tab”, which was against the mother board near the fan. Pulling this upward unlocked the metal hinge and everything else was obvious after that.

    xtophr - Antwort

    I agree, this step was unclear. Part of the problem may be variations between logic boards. Mine did not look like the one pictured here. Mine has a tab lying flat against the logic board, as also described by xtophr. If this describes yours, check out [|this video] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-IE3WNOsrZ... (around 40 seconds in) to see exactly how it comes out. You lift the locking clip up by the plastic tab, then (with a little bit of downward pressure on the cable) slide it out towards the nearest corner of the machine.

    Kal - Antwort

    Wow Thansks for the video link. That definetly helped out to understand how this part actually moves. It is pretty easy after this explanation

    Carlos Anriquez -

    ummm, yeah, this was an intimidating 2-STEP step. sounds easy, lift the latch then pull back on the cable connector, but it took me several minutes (felt like an hour) to figure it out.. reinserting was worse, i couldnʻt figure out how to relatch the connection, lots of attempts, and i finally got it in. tested it gingerly, and i think itʻs ok. at least, the screen is working, so iʻll take that as a good sign.

    Kahana - Antwort

    Fortunately, the step was easy for me thanks to all the great comments above. It could have been a disaster otherwise.

    Fred Heineman - Antwort

    Step 19 :

    First remove the cable clamp, one screw in center behind the connector. Lift the plastic tab upwards and rotating back over the connector. Slide connector out by pulling gently on bend in the wire harness. To reconnect, slide connector into place by pushing on back of bend in wire harness, do not push hard. Use small flat blade at each corner to make final connection. Swing locking hinge down. Reinstall cable clamp.

    John Cusack - Antwort

    When putting the logic board back in, remember to move this cable out of the way first. (Otherwise you may find it underneath, and have to take out all the screws again. Not that this happened to me of course.)

    Rob - Antwort

    I had a 2011 fully speced, Macbook pro 15 and for one day it died in like late 2017, I had asked a repair shop and they said dead GPU but looking at the gpu now I see no damage and also even if it was dead the CPUs internal graphics would allow it to boot anyway. Can someone help me?

    Tanvir - Antwort

  20. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 20, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 20, Bild 2 von 2
    • Klappe die Halteklappe am ZIF Anschluss des Flachbandkabels der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit der Spitze des Spudgers hoch.

    • Achte darauf, dass du wirklich nur die scharnierartige Klappe, nicht den Sockel selbst hochklappst.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung aus seinem Sockel.

    Connector slides out, do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    any replacement parts available for this? I pulled up instead of sliding cable :(

    Allen Jenkins - Antwort

    This step would benefit from a macro view of hinged retaining flap and clarification. The instruction about flipping up the hinged retaining flap is misleading people into trying to flip out the ribbon.

    Frank Wilson - Antwort

    Another great save by good comments. Thank you, thank you. :)

    Fred Heineman - Antwort

  21. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 21, Bild 1 von 1
    • Drehe folgende neun Schrauben heraus:

    • Sieben 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) T6 Torx Schrauben auf dem Logic Board

    • Zwei 8 mm T6 Torx Schrauben auf dem DC-In Board

    Remove T6 (smaller) screws first, that was the last screwdriver that you used (for smooth workflow).

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    Getting the DC board back in required a non-trivial amount of force to get it into position and lined up with the screw holes. It seemed to want to sit away further from it’s hole in the external case than it had to be to line up. I eventually got it in by leaving the main logic board out of it’s final position (but with the cable connected), which allowed me to get the leverage to push the DC board in so it would line up and be screwed in. Once it was in, I then positioned the main logic board and screwed it in.

    Andrew Wharton - Antwort

  22. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 22, Bild 1 von 3 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 22, Bild 2 von 3 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 22, Bild 3 von 3
    • Hebe die ganze Einheit mit dem Logic Board vorsichtig auf der linken Seite an und aus dem Gehäuse heraus. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich das Kabel des optischen Laufwerks und die I/O Ports nicht verfangen.

    • Trenne falls nötig das Mikrofon mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom oberen Gehäuse.

    • Ziehe die Seite des Logic Boards mit den I/O Ports seitlich vom Gehäuse weg und entferne die ganze Logic Board Einheit.

    I had a little difficulty pulling the motherboard before the battery. I'm not sure why you would want to do it in the order listed here, but doing steps 23 and 24 first helped the board come out easier.

    maccentric - Antwort

    The thing that caught me on this step was that, at least on mine, the speaker box was glued/taped to the case, and so I got rather nervous trying to remove the logic board as it wouldn't move until said adhesive was pried apart. Thank goodness I knew the difference between the sounds of "board breaking" and "adhesive separating", but this step was still rather harrowing for me.

    Joseph Sikorski - Antwort

    The microphone cable was easy to pry off the logic board for disassembly. For re-assembly, I was having a heck of a time getting the connector to connect to the logic board. There just isn't enough room to get your hands and tools in there and still see what you're doing (unless you're a dentist and you're used to that kind of thing). Anyway, I finally got brave and pulled the round, rubberized microphone from the case. I connected the short cable to the logic board, set the microphone in the made-for-the-microphone housing on the logic board, hoping it would stick itself back to the case once the logic board was in position, and I was back in business. In this case, simply stating "reverse these steps for reassembly" wasn't very forthcoming.

    robk64 - Antwort

    Pulling the microphone off the case is key to reassembling. Place the mic back into the cut-away in the speaker housing and plug the connection into the backside of the logic board

    Justin Brisotto -

    thx graciaaaas :)

    driveremule -

    When I did this step the microphone was REALLY STUCK to the upper case, it actually stayed stuck to it and disconnect "itself" from the mother board while I was lifting up everything.

    Finally, there was no damage : I separated the microphone from the upper case while reassembling, then connected it back to the mother board and put it on its housing.

    Greg - Antwort

    Count the number of connectors as you remove the board, so that when you put it back one does not get lost under the board and you can't figure out why it won't go in. You should do this.

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    If you laptop was getting hot when charging then be extra careful in this step because the foam pad under the logic board my have started to fuse to the casing. If the pad seems stuck then use a knife to gently pry it up.

    Jereme Shaver - Antwort

    I wish I'd read the comment on the items being stuck to the surface below

    Mazo - Antwort

    I have the same case with Joseph Sikorski - it's hard to pull out the mother board because the speaker is glued that I thought their are remaining screws that hook in to it. Better use flat spudger to pry the right side that is stuck when you pull the left upward first.

    Auldz Buzz - Antwort

    Repairing a friend’s laptop… I wonder if the “glue” between the speaker and case is actually juice or soda, lol

    Sarah Ybarra - Antwort

    This part was highly stressful. The microphone/left speaker assembly are fused to the underside of the logic board. As you are facing the project according to the layout in these photos, the mike assembly is on the right side of the logic board, towards the top end. It is fused to the logic board but it also has adhesive sticking it to the upper case. As you lift, you have to insert a long spudger flat end down into that corner and move it back and forth between the mike assembly and the upper case, and it will release. Be very patient, focused, and slow. The spare part I bought from iFixIt had an extra speaker there in case I messed up, but I did not need it.

    jruedas - Antwort

    Hallelujah! There is a God!…Been sitting here for the past 2 hours, eyeballing the rubber whatever it is ”My New Moto”..When I’m stuck…”READ THE COMMENTS!…Thanks to all of you!!!!

    taleahebey - Antwort

    For reinserting the logic board, it helps to have a second person helping hold connection points to the side so you do not accidentally lay the logic board on top. Just go slowly, being mindful of all connections. (best to start by properly seating the DC power unit in the upper right corner)

    hyde244 - Antwort

    This step need a better picture of how the speaker and microphone looked from beneath the board, so people can understand where they should pry with the stick tool to wiggle the adhesive. In my case, it was the microphone that stucked, luckily the connector of the mic itself wigle off when i pull the board sideway. N fortunately the connector wasnt torned.

    For any of you have difficulty in this step i would suggest to actually disconnect the socket of the mic from the board first, and then only pull the mic itself from the upper case.

    Otniel Yoreiza - Antwort

    When you put in back, remember there’s 11 connectors-wires

    Sergio Cuervo - Antwort

  23. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen, Akku: Schritt 23, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die zwei 7,5 mm (7,2 mm) Tri-point Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuseteil befestigen.

  24. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 24, Bild 1 von 1
    • Löse vorsichtig den Akku-Warnaufkleber vom oberen Gehäuseteil zwischen Akku und optischem Laufwerk, um eine weitere Tri-point Schraube freizulegen.

    • Entferne die letzte 7,5 mm (7,2 mm) Tri-point Schraube, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuseteil befestigt.

    • Entferne den Aufkleber nicht vom Akku.

  25. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 25, Bild 1 von 1
    • Nutze die angehängte Plastiklasche um den Akku aus dem oberen Gehäuseteil zu entfernen.

    No large piece of tape on my computer board.

    cvmiller21 - Antwort

  26. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen, Trackpad: Schritt 26, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen, Trackpad: Schritt 26, Bild 2 von 2
    • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers die Ecke des großen schwarzen Klebebands, welches das Trackpad-Kabel bedeckt.

    • Löse das Klebeband und falte es nach hinten, so dass es dem Trackpad-Kabel nicht im Weg ist. Wenn du es an seinem Platz am oberen Gehäuseteil lässt, ist es beim Zusammenbau leichter, das Klebeband wieder zu befestigen.

    Mine did not have this tape.

    maccentric - Antwort

    Neither did mine.

    xtophr - Antwort

    L’autocollant s’abîme au démontage : il se plisse et le côté collant ne colle plus du tout. Donc pas possible de le réutiliser au remontage.

    Créations des Possibles - Antwort

  27. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 27, Bild 1 von 1
    • Öffne dein MacBook Pro ungefähr 90 Grad und lege es mit der Seite auf einen Tisch.

    • Entferne die vier silbernen 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00 von den Trackpad-Federbügeln.

    Three of the screws cane fine. One was frozen and then stripped. Now what??

    jmerwinp - Antwort

    Well, I was stuffed. So I broke off that side of the spring bracket, sneering the thin metal clean and then filing it down so it didn’t interfere with the new track pad. The remaining screw on that side holds it and it’ll have to do.

    jmerwinp -

    There are metal strips (the “spring brackets”) on each side of the trackpad which are really the ONLY things holding the top edge of the trackpad to the computer. You can see these strips if you examine the picture for iFixit’s “Trackpad Mounting Screws” part. The trackpad screws to the metal strips, and then the strips screw to the computer body.

    The metal strips/brackets are VERY thin and bend very easily. So while you’re unscrewing the silver screws from the trackpad, support the other side of the trackpad with your other hand so it doesn’t move, so you can get enough pressure on the screw heads without bending or possibly breaking the metal strips.

    James Fitzwilliam - Antwort

  28. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 28, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 28, Bild 2 von 2
    • Halte mit der einen Hand das Flachbandkabel vom Trackpad, um zu verhindern, dass es reißt oder knickt, und löse das Trackpad mit der anderen Hand aus dem oberen Gehäuseteil.

    • Bewege das Trackpad zurück und nach rechts.

    My trackpad ribbon cable was glued in two places to the film it was resting on. Be careful about separating it before removing the trackpad.

    xtophr - Antwort

    Can anybody give any guidance on how to remove the ribbon cable from the trackpad? The battery in my Mac expanded, deforming the trackpad, so I want to replace it. However, the ribbon cable is intact (the trackpad even still works), so I just want to change the trackpad and the two springs, without disassembling the whole Mac.

    gvenzl - Antwort

  29. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 29, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 29, Bild 2 von 2
    • Sobald das Trackpad aus dem oberen Gehäuseteil befreit ist, führe das Flachbandkabel durch den schlitzförmigen Ausschnitt im oberen Gehäuse.

    Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out

    Danno - Antwort

  30. MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 30, Bild 1 von 2 MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2012, Unibody) Trackpad ersetzen: Schritt 30, Bild 2 von 2
    • Wenn du das Trackpad wieder einbaust, schraube die vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben nur leicht an und überprüfe zunächst die Ausrichtung des Trackpads auf derTastaturseite des oberen Gehäuses.

    • Wenn du das Trackpad mittig im oberen Gehäuseteil ausgerichtet hast, ziehe die Kreuzschlitzschrauben fest an.

    • Benutze die große Tri-point Schraube an der Unterseite des Trackpads um den Klick-Hub einzustellen.

    What direction do you turn the adjustment screw if the trackpad is to hard to push to click

    Jeffrey Rocks - Antwort

    Mine was a Torx T6. Start by backing the screw out anti-clockwise and testng the click operation Then tighten while click testing until it no longer clicks. Back the screw again until good clicking is felt.

    xtophr - Antwort

    Is it necessary to take off fans, logic. Board etc. can you just work on trackpad after batterybis out?

    Jeremy King - Antwort

    You need to remove the fans, logic board etc to remove the touchpad. If you’re just trying to do some deep cleaning, you can remove the battery, loosen the 4 screws holding the touchpad pop it out a little bit BUT you need to be careful to not damage the cable, you’ll need to hold it with one hand while getting all the junk out along the edges. I just did that however next time I will just do a full disassemble as it’s not that difficult, the instructions make it sound more involved than it is.

    unibody deluxe -

    My laptop fell a hard 3 feet while closed. Yikes! But it seems fine except the track pad is now out of whack. It’s not flush and clicking isn’t as defined. It’s lower on the left and too high on the right. Functionality is diminished but mostly still works. Can I adjust the pad without doing a full disassemble? Everything seems intact so I don’t need to replace anything, just adjust whatever got knocked off kilter.

    Laura Dyer - Antwort

Abschluss

Folge den Anweisungen in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

57 weitere Nutzer:innen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:

en de

100%

Diese Übersetzer:innen helfen uns, die Welt zu reparieren! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Hier starten ›

Team

iFixit Mitglied von iFixit

Staff

136 Mitglieder

16.573 Anleitungen geschrieben

14 Kommentare

Be extremely careful about the keyboard backlight socket. I ended up breaking off an infinitesimally small side of the plastic socket and I have no keyboard backlight now. This doesn't bother me that much, but still irritating!

mjwoulard - Antwort

Dang - I did the same thing. Thankfully it was on the questionable logic board in the machine I was scavenging the “good” trackpad from, so I didn’t do the same to the good one. Overall, a very good set of instructions - thank you to the author.

Dave M -

Very easy process, one observation is that the holes which the screws that hold the battery in shattered, they're very brittle, had to hot glue my battery back in, double sided tape would have been better. Hardest part was the alignment of the new trackpad, but if you take your time to align it and use sellotape to hold it in place while you flip the MacBook and tighten it, everything will be all good.

Many thanks to the author

tomo30 - Antwort

+ It is important to make sure you connected well the keyboard/trackpad cable

+ Test if your keyboard is working before attempting to reset either the PRAM/NVRAM and the System Management Controller (SMC), which, although not required, I would recommend doing after replacing a piece of hardware like the trackpad

+ Thanks for these instructions

Rodolfo Aramayo - Antwort

Well, thanks for the good instructions…But (IMHO) if you only need to replace the trackpad and not the trackpad ribbon cable it is NOT necessary to follow all these steps, E.g. you do not have to remove logic board and all, just follow steps to remove battery, unscrew the trackpad, carefully remove cable on the trackpad side (the cable has also a connector there) and done. Then vice versa Maybe 20 minutes work.

GS from NL - Antwort

Thank you so much for this!!! I almost took apart the whole motherboard. Glad I scrolled down. Super fast, less than 15 minutes.

daren -

That’s right. Initially I thought I needed to remove the motherboard to complete the repair. For my case, which involved some sani wipe moisture under the track pad, I removed the battery then replaced the track pad.

Tuan Duong -

How do you remove the cable from the connector on the trackpad?

Alexander Veshev -

Never mind, figured it out - it’s using the same type of connector as the keyboard ribbon on the logic board (with a flap, see step 17 of this howto). I was wary of prying the flap too hard since I wasn’t sure that it was, in fact, a flap.

Alexander Veshev -

Yes. This is route I used today and the track pad replacement was pretty easy. I just used friction from my fingers to set the still-in-place track pad cable into the socket on the track pad. I don't understand the 21-step process that includes removing the main board for such a simple replacement. I guess I was lucky that my old track pad was broken and not the cable. But try this way first before you take your whole MBP apart.

tourtelot -

Indeed, follow "GS from NL" advice. One thing worth noting is that the "tab needs to be pulled up" is vague. What is meant is that there is a thin strip on the opposite side of where the ribbon attaches to the larger flat plug. That thin strip levers up onto the bigger center area, so from the side it looks like it flips onto it by 90 degrees. One that happens you can take the ribbon out but be aware that there are many components on the bottom of that ribbon. I took it off after removing the screws to the trackpad (step 28) easier to manipulate the ribbon without damaging it. It slipped in easily as well. I have to absolutely thank GS for the sage advice. All is all, it took me longer to find my Y screw driver than to fix the laptop.

Ron Przygodzki -

Next time I attempt this repair, I would definitely try only replacing the trackpad as “GS from NL” stated. Taking out the logic board is nail-biting. My logic board felt like it was glued in. Turned out that the rubber lining for the right speaker grill had melted to the chassis. It felt like adhesive as I could move the board around. After some prying from the port side and sticking the long spudger underneath the speaker, I was able to get it loose.

The sticker covering the ribbon cable disintegrated as I removed it leaving chunks of this metal/graphite residue. I didn’t know if it was conductive or not, so I decided to remove it entirely from my machine and vacuum out the metal/shiny like particles. Fortunately, my trackpad seems to be working without the sticker.

Brian Gilreath - Antwort

My trackpad connector was not quite the same as my keyboard connector, but more or less the same. The ribbon connector with its 21+20 contacts (!) slides out parallel to the trackpad surface in the direction of the motherboard. Be careful with the wider, stiffer portion of the ribbon closest to the connector – it's actually a tiny circuit board with 4 ICs and lots of other small stuff!

Alan Waller - Antwort

The narrow part of the trackpad ribbon closest to the motherboard is anchored to the trackpad chassis with gentle adhesive which needs to be prised free.

You can work the ribbon free from the connector by pulling alternately on the shoulders of the wider part.

Alan Waller - Antwort

Kommentar hinzufügen

Seitenaufrufe:

Letzte 24 Stunden: 1

Letzte 7 Tage: 19

Letzte 30 Tage: 99

Insgesamt: 50,317