This detects the internal temperature of your machine for heat management.

  1. Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.
    • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.

    Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)

    amiller770 - Antwort

    Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?

    Noah Nsangou - Antwort

    mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine

    on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.

    david -

    I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?

    2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151

    2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo

    Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz

    Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB

    scannon - Antwort

    You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)

    asle -

    There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...

    His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:

    Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.

    Phil - 10/07/2015

    at0gjm -

  2. Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door.  These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
    • Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

    One of the screws here wouldn't bite going back in. I'm 100% certain it's the same screw that came out of it but it wouldn't bite going back, neither would any of the other two in this section in that particular hole.

    Damon B - Antwort

    To Damon - possibly the thread on the bottom of the upper case is obstructed.

    I found that I needed to fight the latch magnet with the right-most screw in the photo. The screw was pulled away from the hole so a magnetized screwdriver was not enough to place it. I needed tweezers to hold the screw in place until it bit.

    Yishai Sered - Antwort

    • Remove the following six screws:

      • Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

      • Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

    Note for re-assembly: For the hinge use the longest four Phillips screws.

    R L - Antwort

    The Philips screws in Step 5 are longer than the other Philips screws. Would be better if the instructions differentiated them. Otherwise it is possible to use the wrong screws in Step 7 when reassembling.

    Alex - Antwort

    These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.

    Andrew Patterson - Antwort

  3. Spread Fixmas Cheer
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    Spread Fixmas Cheer
    Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
    • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

    When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!

    isotope434 - Antwort

    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

    Screw on the right is shorter

    mikefal - Antwort

    The screws on mine were exactly the same size.

    Zitat von mikefal:

    Screw on the right is shorter

    Chris - Antwort

    What are these two screws called?

    ian - Antwort

    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

    • Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

    WOW this step is very hard!!! its a serious suction cup..

    nya - Antwort

    Once the upper case is free...Carefully tilt the upper case from the front towards the screen as their is a ribbon cable directly beneath the keyboard and trackpad that will need to be removed in the next step.

    Troy - Antwort

    Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

    • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.

    • Remove the upper case.

    Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

    amiller770 - Antwort

    It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.

    Russ Greene - Antwort

    how reconnect this cable?

    anatole - Antwort

    I did this with and without step 10 (removing the upper case with detached cable). Removing the cable is risk, putting it back on was not so easy. But then, leaning the keyboard part against the LCD while replacing the hard drive is also risky.

    tobybaier - Antwort

    • Disconnect the display data cable and right fan cable from the logic board.

    • If you have a MacBook Pro 17" Model A1229 or A1212, the connectors have different compositions and are highlighted in the second picture.

    • For models A1229 and/or A1212, carefully wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the right fan cable to pry it up off its socket. Failure to do so may result in the whole socket coming off the motherboard instead of just the cable.

    i'm pretty lost at the moment because when I was trying to disconnect the fan cable from the logic board I've detached it !!! :-(

    samuelegottardello - Antwort

    I have tried to added a warning to Step 11, not sure whether it will show though.

    I suggest not to carry out this repair on the A1229 without further instructions. When trying to remove the right fan connector, I broke off the pins from the board since I did not know in which direction to pull, push or slide.

    Now the right fan has stopped being noisy, simply because it is no longer connected but that's not the idea of a repair!

    Stefan - Antwort

    this is a difficult step with unclear instructions. if you can, take magnifying glass or lupe and have a good close look at the connectors before trying to remove them.

    small connector:

    * this has the word PUSH on the top side. this means 'push down to connect' so to disconnect it needs to come straight up.

    * the connector housing is divided into two parts - a fixed rectangular housing like a box with the top and one long side missing, and the part attached to the wires which looks like it is divided into two - a small part split into four sections adjacent to the four wires, and the part with the word PUSH on it - but is actually one piece.

    * to disconnect you need to get in the tight gap between the two parts and gently pry up. i found it easiest to do each side a little at a time until it pops off. i used a scalpel (probably not advisable) but i have a steady hand and the sharp edge is ideal. be warned, if you slip you will likely damage something so take care.

    damian - Antwort

    large ribbon connector

    * this slides out sideways, in the direction of the ribbon. obvious when you know, otherwise it looks like the entire connector is just a single metal piece. there are two tabs which stick out at the sides of the moving part closest to the ribbon. the fixed part of the housing - the metal box - stays put.

    * it's very tight, so persevere and just do each side a little at a time, it eventually slides out. i have big hands but managed to get the nails of my thumb and forefinger hooked behind the tabs to ease it out.

    damian - Antwort

    • Remove the three silver T6 Torx screws securing the right fan.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Lift the right fan and its metal bracket out of the logic board.

    When lifting out the right Fan.. carefully remove the black tape from the fan casing and leave the side of the black tape stuck to where the fan sits. It might be wise to carefully vacuum the vent where the fan intakes air so as to prevent dust from clogging up the new fan.

    Nick Rodrigue - Antwort

    second the above comment - the tape should stay attached to the part behind the fan. it's fiddly but the best way.

    also, if you want to save yourself 50 dollars and the delivery time just take the fan apart - two screws release the housing and the fan itself just pulls out of its bearing. clean off all the dust, apply a couple of drops of penetrating oil (wd40, kroil etc) to the shaft of the fan and reassemble. good as new.

    damian - Antwort

    • Disconnect the right thermal sensor cable from the logic board.

    • If you have the A1261 model, the right thermal sensor cable is located in between the right fan connector and display data cable.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Peel up the orange Kapton tape covering the right thermal sensor.

    • Use a spudger to pry the right thermal sensor off the lower case.

    Kommentar hinzufügen


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.


Mitglied seit 24.09.2009

1 Reputation

623 Anleitungen geschrieben

Kommentar hinzufügen

Statistik anzeigen:

Letzte 24 Stunden: 0

Letzte 7 Tage: 1

Letzte 30 Tage: 3

Insgesamt: 8,823