Einleitung

Benutze diese Anleitung um den Arbeitsspeicher deines MacBook Pro zu ersetzen.

Entferne die folgenden 10 Schrauben, die das Gehäuseunterteil mit dem Deckel verbinden:
  • Entferne die folgenden 10 Schrauben, die das Gehäuseunterteil mit dem Deckel verbinden:

    • Drei 13.5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    • Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

mysterioes - Antwort

Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.

Kyle Spadaro -

Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

- remove the assembly and flip it over

- again carefully remove the shielding tape

- undo 3 tiny screws

- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

- reverse process with replacement card.

image can be found here:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...

Remon - Antwort

It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

Human - Antwort

3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

scottbernardis - Antwort

I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.

Grace Morris - Antwort

This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!

Steve Adamczyk -

Zwänge deine Finger zwischen das Gehäuseunterteil und die Lüftungsschlitze und ziehe das Unterteil nach oben, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil am Deckel befestigt ist.
  • Zwänge deine Finger zwischen das Gehäuseunterteil und die Lüftungsschlitze und ziehe das Unterteil nach oben, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil am Deckel befestigt ist.

  • Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.

I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

d68ef792 - Antwort

  • Wenn du in der Nähe des Logic Board arbeitest, ist es immer ratsam, den Stromanschluss der Batterie zu trennen, um Kurzschlüsse zu vermeiden.

  • Falls vorhanden, ziehe die kleine Plastiklasche am Batteriestecker gegen die Vorderkante des Geräts. Bei Modellen von Ende 2011 hat der Stecker keine Lasche und ist einfach direkt im Motherboard eingesteckt. In diesem Fall ziehe den Stecker gerade nach oben, um ihn zu entfernen.

  • Falls die Plastiklasche fehlt, benütze einen Spudger, um den Stecker von seinem Sockel zu lösen.

  • Ziehe die Plastiklasche parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.

yary hluchan - Antwort

Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.

Tobias Hahn - Antwort

As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.

Andrew Bookholt -

There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.

bhodges2 - Antwort

Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.

Stephen -

* There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.

** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)

Pinguman - Antwort

Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.

Dave - Antwort

I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...

jmueller -

I just put an SSD in a model #A1297 - MC226LL/A and the battery connector had to be removed by pulling it parallel to and away from the logic board — in other words, not up. I was definitely a bit confused when I tried to pull it up.

Doug Hogg - Antwort

  • Drücke die beiden Klemmen links und rechts vom RAM mit dem Daumen nach aussen.

  • Diese Klemmen halten den Riegel fest. Wenn du sie löst, wird der Riegel nach oben "springen".

  • Wenn der Riegel nach oben gesprungen ist, ziehe ihn gerade aus seinem Steckplatz.

  • Wiederhole diese Schritte, wenn noch ein zweiter RAM-Riegel installiert ist.

Steps are not really in reverse order, they are but missing one step. There is a plastic snap that must be moved so the bottom will go back on there. As commented on the first page, the screw holes are all at an angle. Make sure to find the angle. Also the blue lock-tight was never mentioned. Also a great opportunity to clean.

bhodges2 - Antwort

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

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Thank you iFixIt. Your tutorial gave me confidence to move forward and get inside my computer. I agree with bhodges2, a great opportunity to clean. I'd keep a can of compressed air handy next time. I would also use a separate compartment for each screw. I treated the case like a wheel, lightly tightening each first. Still, the 3mm screws do not seem not entirely interchangeable. Mixing them around, not forcing anything, eventually worked out.

paleo5 - Antwort

These instructions worked perfectly, thank you!

Ruth H - Antwort

Folded masking tape to make two sided.Made rectangle like shape of Mac.Put the screws on the tape in order, so I would not mix screws or loose them.That process took longer than installation. Done in 10 mins..No need to remove battery.Put finger on metal stated by Apple.Now going to add 16gigs more in my IMac.Thanks for the illustrations Andrew !!!!

Gary howarth - Antwort

Hi may i know what is the maximum size of GB for RAM that model A1297 MBP 17" Early 2009 can support? can it support 16GB. TIA.

rewtz - Antwort

Late 2011 Macbook Pro 17" A1297 2.5GHz i7-2860QM supports 1600MHz DDR3 RAM according to Intel's Ark (http://ark.intel.com/products/53476/Inte...), faster than what Apple suggests. I tried 2x8GB 1600MHz SODIMMs (opposite 2x16GB maximum as supported by Intel, yet cannot find the modules anywhere) and it works. The machine is a lot faster compared to the default 1333MHz RAM.

aramis - Antwort

I've never used any guides or taken anything apart before. This was as simple as can be, screws out, unplug battery, pop memory out, insert new one, plug battery in then screw on the back and done. Took me tops 10 minutes.

Johnathan Tokar - Antwort

I am like Johnathan a novice in repairing or replacing anything in a computer but Andrews brilliant guidance gives me the guts to try. I have a MacBook Pro 17” model A1297, processor: Intel Core i7, processor speed: 2,66 GHz, processor quantity: 1, cores quantity: 2, L2-cache (per core): 256 K, L3-cache: 4 MB, Memory: 8 GB, connection speed between the processors: 4,8 GT/s, Boot ROM-version: MBP61.005A.B00. What of those units do you assesses as worth replace?

Peter Bekcic - Antwort

Everything went great, but a bit of clarity on how to insert RAM and how firmly to press would have been nice. I was a bit hesitant, figured I’d break it. But all was good!

Kathleen Standard - Antwort

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