Einleitung
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Was du brauchst
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Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das AirPort / Bluetooth-Flachbandkabel vom Logic Board abzulösen.
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Heble den Lüfterstecker mit einem Spudger gerade nach oben ab und aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
Since this kind of connector and very fragile and easy to damage even with a spudger I use a needle that I insert in the front side of the connector, between the connector and the socket and only apply a little pressure while lifting up the needle. The connector will then pop up from one side. Repeat the procedure for the other side. With this method it's impossible to damage the connector. I adopted this method after ruining two or three connectors using the spudger.
Hi, how do you fix the axial which connects the fan with logic board..it's broken! Thanks in advance..
HELP! Both the connector AND socket detached from the logic board! Is it possible (barring micro-surgery) to reattach the socket to the logic board?
same problem here...any ideas? Did you fix it again, John?
Ben Kn -
I disconnected the connector and socket from the logic board because I wasn't being careful and wasn't using a spudger tool as was recommended. Luckily, a friend of mine that's handy with a soldering gun was able to individually solder each wire from the cooling fan's wire assembly back onto the soldering points on the logic board. It's really intricate, tricky, and risky...but at that point, what choice do you have? I verify it's possible to fix and my cooling fan is now running perfectly fine.
Hi my name is Lynn I made a mistake on the logic board trying to detach fan from laptop
A1342 and the whole thing came off so I was wondering do
I solder it back on or how can I fix it thank you and be Blessed
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Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen der Lüfter am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Eine 7,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Zwei 5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Hebe den Lüfter aus dem oberen Gehäuse.
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Löse den empfindlichen Stecker des rückwärtigen Lautsprechers vom Logic Board ab. Diese kleinen Stecker des rechten und linken Lautsprechers gehen leicht kaputt.
While these connectors are very delicate, a new upper body case will have new connectors already installed. I slightly broke two connectors while removing them.
Also, the connectors have a notch underneath (on the logic board) for the corner of the spudger to fit into. The hard part is that you cannot see the notches until the connectors are removed.
Hi. Long time ago, I know but.... How did you fix them?
I snapped mine off, can it be soldered back on?
Simon G -
I used pointed tip of one side of the tweezers from the ifixit Home Tech Toolkit. I found this thinner pointed tip better than a spudger for hitting that notch in the socket underneath the connectors. Since this is a metal tool, I pried very gently and I was working on a MacBook with the battery taken out entirely (early on as suggested in the video) and was also using an Anti-Static wrist strap. I found the spudger broke one of the connectors because it's relatively thick plastic, and put too much pressure under the cables before the tip could reach the plastic block of the connector. The pressure under the cable popped the wire contact right through the top of the plastic block connector. (it was OK this connector broke since I didn't need to reuse it--my replacement keyboard/upper case came with its own cables.)
Because the tips of the tweezers are angled, I felt I had better control of the torque I was applying than if I used a jeweler's flathead screwdriver.
Totally agree with the needle solution prying up from the side of the connector. A dentist tool is perfect!
(yes, in 2021 i’m fixing a 2009 macbook! :P)
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Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des optischen Laufwerks vom Logic Board abzulösen.
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Benutze ein Spudger, um den Stecker des rechten Lautsprechers und den LED-Stecker für den Sleep-Modus vom Logic Board abzulösen.
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Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Trackpad-Kabelstecker vom Logic Board abzulösen.
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Anschluss des Tastatur-Flachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel hoch.
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Schiebe das Tastatur-Flachbandkabel mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Anschluss.
When reassembling make sure this cable is really deep in it's socket. (Use some force with the spudger wedging it in between the cable and battery). If you don't, you won't be able to power up the board. I had 2 logicboards that I thought were dead, but it turned out the cable was not inserted enough. Jump starting them with the jump pads did nothing (with or without cable connected), but connecting the cable properly made the board come alive. Really check this!!
You sir, just saved my day! Switching boards between two mac and I thought I broke the two at once... This should be documented on the manual!!
Thanks for your help!!! I thought I did the replacement wrong. Greetings from Peru.
This was hugely helpful! The cable requires much more force than expected.
'This should be added to the guide:
There really should be a comment in the steps regarding tips on how to put the ribbon back in. The tape did the trick and I am back up and running.
The two silver squares above the left corner of the Keyboard and to the right of the Trackpad cable ribbon are the jump pads to power on the MacBook if your power button may not be working.
Nope big job to replace it. Use Kapton tape to hold it in place. https://www.amazon.com/Retermit-Resistan...
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Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Festplattenkabels vom Logic Board zu hebeln.
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Benutze einen Spudger, um den linken Lautsprecherstecker und den Mikrofonstecker vom Logic Board zu hebeln.
Note: the 2009 and 2010 model differ here. On one the 3 point connector is left and 2 point is right, on the other one the 3 point connector is right and 2 point is left.
I found this while installing several logicboards for A1342.
@Peterdk, are the connectors exchangeable?
I mean, would putting the 3 pin on the 3 pin, and the 2 pin on the 2 pin, regardless of the position (left or right) be ok?
Have you successfully used a 2010 logic board on a 2009 case?
how do you reconnect these?
hi! i know iʻm 6 years late, and you probably figured it out already, but for the rest of us newbies , line the plug over the socket and gently press down. the correct orientation of the plug is the side with the tiny slots in them faces the logic board, aligning with the contacts in the socket. it may help to press the side farthest from the ribbon cable first.
Kahana -
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Fasse die Zuglasche aus Kunststoff, die an der Kabelverriegelung des Displays befestigt ist, und drehe sie in Richtung der DC-In-Seite des Computers.
If the video data cable has been disconnected before, the adhesive on the might not hold. Be extra cautious in disconnecting this. An illuminated magnifier would be a good help on this step as it is very delicate. This was where I feared I would fail. Was very relieved in getting through this step...
I wasn't careful enough here, and didn't realize that the silver metal piece around the connector is actually a locking clip. No wonder disconnecting the cable required more than a gentle pull. The clip popped out of the cable-side connector in the process, and was bent; fortunately I was able to very carefully bend the clip out just enough to get it re-seated in the connector; there are tiny slots on the sides of the connector that the clip fits into.
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Ziehe den Stecker des Display-Datenkabels vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
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Entferne die sechs 4,1 bis 4,4 mm T6 Torx Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board am Obergehäuse befestigt ist.
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Entferne die beiden 4,1 bis 4,5 mm T6 Torx Schrauben, mit denen die MagSafe-Platine am Obergehäuse befestigt ist.
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Bei einigen Modellen können dies Schrauben der Größe T7 sein. Achte darauf, dass du den Kopf nicht mit einem kleineren Bit beschädigst.
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Hebe die Seite des Logic Boards, die den Anschlüssen gegenüberliegt, aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.
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Drehe das Logic Board vom oberen Gehäuse weg, bis die Anschlüsse den Rand des oberen Gehäuses freigeben.
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Ziehe das Logic Board und die MagSafe-Platine in einem Stück von der Kante des oberen Gehäuses weg.
(When re-installing) Before screwing down the logic board, go around the edge and make sure no cables are caught underneath, remember there are 11 of them, 12 if the battery is present at this point.
I reassembled the macbook A1342 using this guide and everything is perfect, except that if I shut down the computer and power it up after 1hour or so, I have to press the power button a few times before it starts. What could I have gone wrong? I checked the magsafe connector and it seems to be firmly seated. :(
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, befolge die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, befolge die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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The steps from 7 up to 16, and then 19 and 20 are not necessary. It looks like Apple intentionally designed the shape in the corner around the magsafe connector, so that it can be replaced without disconnecting and unmounting the main board. Also, the placement of the two screws mounting the magsafe board confirms that - they are easily available. This is true at least for the 2009 model, which I've successfully repaired.
So you can skip the risky steps of disconnecting of all the main board connectors and go straight to unscrewing the magsafe connector. Then, having the spudger and some 3D imagination, you can remove the magsafe board with some 3D rotations. Same for mounting the new magsafe.
I've found out that crucial simplification only because I failed to unscrew the fan (broken a screw completely, while following this guide step by step). Then I found a comment from user grze under step 6, which saved my macbook by confirming, that 7 to 16 can be skipped.
Sebastian M - Antwort