Einleitung
In dieser Anleitung wird gezeigt, wie du das SuperDrive-Laufwerk deines Laptops ersetzen kannst (erfordert ein SATA-SuperDrive-Laufwerk).
Was du brauchst
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Löse die acht 4 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die untere Abdeckung befestigen.
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Hebe die untere Abdeckung vorsichtig in der Nähe der Lüftungsöffnung an.
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Öffne den Spalt weiter mit den Fingern, bis sich die Abdeckung von den verbleibenden Clips löst.
Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?
Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.
Rather than running your fingernail down the sides to free up the retaining clips, I found that using an old credit card, inserted about 1/4”, to run along the left and right side popped those end retaining clips right off with no problem. You may need to twist the card slightly when in the middle area to help pop those off.
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Hebe den Akkuanschluss mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
you do not need to remove the battery when replacing the hard drive or ram
Be careful of the corner of the battery cable connector when trying to pry it off with the spudge. I knocked the corner of mine. No operational impact but was not very pleasing!
Not necessary, but a good idea, so as to avoid any spurious charges going through the boards...
@Svenaustx - What could happen if not removing this battery? Worst case? Not a geek on this but did change RAM on my Macbook Pro "15. Can't remember disconneting the battery back then. Shouldn't it be sufficient shutting the Mac off and ensure it has been used for an hour or so before replacing RAM?
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Entferne die folgenden Schrauben auf der Seite mit dem optischen Laufwerk am hinteren Lüftungsgitter:
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Zwei 10 mm Torx T8 Schrauben
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Zwei 5,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
I have a problem with the two middle screws
same here...
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Entferne folgende Schrauben von der Seite mit den Anschlüssen am hinteren Lüftungsgitter:
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Zwei 10 mm Torx T8 Schrauben
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Zwei 5,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
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Hebe vorsichtig das hintere Lüftungsgitter aus dem oberen Gehäuse.
you can actually stop disassembling now and try to replace it now. after removing two t6 screws it came off pretty easily
Good tip, thanks! I skipped ahead to step 17 and had no problem getting the magsafe board out from under the logic board and the new one installed. Saves a lot of work disconnecting connectors indicated as Fragile!
matt15 -
Thank You! Saved me an hour or so of work and a lot of stress!
I also did Step 6, then skipped to Step 17 & 18. Once I had the display data cable off, I could remove the 2 T6 Torx screws holding the MagSafe board on and remove it. You can reach under the logic board with the point of the spudger to work the cable out of the socket. Note how you maneuver the board out of the tight space so you can maneuver it back in. When you put the new MagSafe board in, plug in the cable first. If you bend the wires so the plug approaches the socket at the appropriate angle, you can nudge it in with the pointed end of the spudger.
Thanks a lot for this hint! You saved my macbook, when I failed to unscrew the fan because of one completely destroyed screw. Thanks to your comment I skipped steps 7-16 and went straight to replacing the magsafe board without problems. The spudger and some 3D imagination and done,
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Entferne die einzelne 12 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Oberseite des rückwärtigen Lautsprechergehäuses am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
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Entferne die einzelne 2,2 mm Schraube, die horizontal in die Seite des optischen Laufwerks eingesetzt ist.
Finding this screw wasn't easy
Where did you find that Screwdriver?
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den AirPort / Bluetooth-Flachbandkabelstecker vom Logic Board abzulösen.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den rückwärtigen Lautsprecheranschluss vom Logic Board abzulösen.
Step 10. If you are having difficulty with the small connector, insert something thin and long underneath it (preferably not metal, as you can scratch the motherboard that way). There is some space under it that you can use to get it loose.
Remember, the amount of force required to loosen it is very small. Take a break if necessary if you are getting frustrated.
I would recommend not removing this as part of this step. You can easily slide the drive under the speaker wire -- just lift it from the side with two screws carefully.
I broke it, obviously... I tried to put it back; it seems to be solid enought, but the speaker now sounds really bad(low and noisy-undefined). Any ideas on how to fix it?
PLEASE TAKE THIS STEP AWAY!!!!!
I now have the same as the rest of the loyalty of Ifixit’s…. I glued it and have the crappy tinny low volume sounds, thanks
Peter -
Same here. I broke it too, tried to glue it back and have sound, luckily, but very bad quality. THIS STEP IS UNNECESSARY!
This step has been very badly explained. I too have now broken my speaker connection. As others have said, you're just trying to lift the cable up NOT "PRY THE SPEAKER CONNECTOR UP OFF THE LOGIC BOARD" as instructed here! Doing this will break the soldered connection to the board. Now I need to take it to a professional for a solder repair.
Hi There, broke the connector.
I could not remove the cable even with the broken off connector.
Soldered it back on, low wattage and very little tin needed.
When putting the drive back in, I found that the loudspeaker cable could easily fit under the drive holder.
So, in future in case of problems with the drive, no more broken off connectors..
Do not try to remove that connector ! It is too much fragile. As other users did, I broke it … And I don’t know if it will be possible to repair it.
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Drehe die rückwärtige Lautsprechereinheit (mit noch angeschlossenen AirPort- / Antennenkabeln) vorsichtig aus dem unteren Gehäuse.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des optischen Laufwerks vom Logic Board abzulösen.
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Entferne die einzelne 4,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Halterung des optischen Laufwerks am oberen Gehäuse in der Nähe des Lüfters befestigt ist.
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Entferne die zwei 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen das optische Laufwerk am oberen Gehäuse in der Nähe der Öffnung des optischen Laufwerks befestigt ist.
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Hebe das optische Laufwerk nahe an seinem Anschluss an und ziehe es vom oberen Gehäuse weg, um es aus dem Computer zu entfernen.
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Ziehe den Kabelstecker des optischen Laufwerks vom Gehäuse des optischen Laufwerks ab.
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Entferne die beiden schwarzen Kreuzschlitzschrauben #0, mit denen die kleine Metallhalterung befestigt ist. Bringe diese Halterung an deinem neuen optischen Laufwerk oder Festplattengehäuse an.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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10 Kommentare
Step 4-5 There is a screw in the center of the bar that looks like it might not be a hold down. It is. Be sure to remove it along with the other screws at each end of the bar per step 4 & 5 instructions.
Step 4-5
There is a screw in the center of the bar that must be removed, in addition to the screws noted in the instructions for step 4 and step 5. It looks like the bar might go over the screw. It doesn't. The center screw holds the bar down. Remove it.
Yes. You can replace it with another optical drive, replace it with an adapter containing a hard disk or leave the space empty if you wish. Obviously you would lose functionality but you would save a little weight.
hi,
i just removed the drive put of my 2009 MacBook pro, physically bought drives are the same except for the bracket so i did changed that one, but the plugs going into the drive are the same but the connector to the board are different so i used the cable that belongs to my a1342 . after starting up the computer i can insert and eject discs, they spin around but i still can't burn or play anything, can you perhaps tell me what to do, can i expect the same if i replace the dive with a drive from a a1342 ?thanks,mick
I did this on a 2009 white unibody Macbook with a caddy that fit well, but I couldn’t get the second hard drive to show up in Finder, DiskUtility, or with ‘diskutil list’ in Terminal. System Report’s SATA Device Tree does show two SATA connections possible, so it seems like all is good up until the connector.
The previous optical drive was '“broken” according to the owner of the computer, which I presumed was just classic optical drive breakage, but perhaps it is down to the connector between the two?
Any other guesses what might be wrong?
Great guide. I followed it all the way to the end. Too bad my replacement superdrive was a dud.
If I have any feedback for this, I would put step 7 after step 8.
I did have a heck of a time taking out the 4.5 mm Phillips screw in step 13. The blue stuff in the screw had dried and I had to use needle nose pliers plus rubber band to get enough traction to coax it out.
For step 8, “Remove the single 2.2 mm Phillips screw inserted horizontally into the side of the optical drive.” I stood the laptop vertically so I could get more torque — trying to unscrew it sideways while the laptop was flat didn’t work at all.
Easy instructions for removing stuck CD, using tweezers to extract after removing drive.
According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.
Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?
Gregoire - Antwort
They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...
Owen Davies -
The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.
svenaustx - Antwort
Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?
nm - Antwort
A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III
Owen Davies -
hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?
thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.
michelvanaar - Antwort
The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!
I hope that helps!
gdesbrisay -
Gregoire is right. The 8 screws are absolutely NOT identical, I’m looking at them right now, weeowey weeowey.
John Guzman - Antwort
I just wanted to say that, in 2020, i used these instructions to replace the magsafe socket on my A1286, mid-2012, pre-Retina MacBook Pro. The internal layout is not quite the same but close enough for me to do the job. I skipped the steps of fully disconnecting the fans and speakers because of what others had said about breaking the sockets. it just meant I had to be extremely careful when lifting up the main board so that I did not tear and break the connections. I was able to disconnect the old magsafe socket with the board flat and in situ, but there was no where near enough room to be able to aline and press home the new par home. Reluctantly i had to lever up the board. This was difficult as there is a tapped post that holds a screw in the way close to where the USB sockets are, that prevented the board lifting up and out. I had to be quite forceful to manouevre the sockets out from the edge of the case.
Paul Burridge - Antwort