Was du brauchst
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Open screen form the top down++
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When screen is tilted upwards its easier to get to the battery before disconnecting the display cables
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Remove battery connect by pushing on the edges
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Wiggle each edge of the plastic cable cover to get it out with out. Make sure you don't force it out.
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Test device before putting adhesive down
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Test wifi, bluetooth and screen of course
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Thank you very much!
What type of glue for reassembly? What temperature of heat setting do you recommend?
I managed to remove the old screen, clean off the old adhesive, apply new adhesive but not remove the backing yet. I connected the new screen and cables back the original way. I then uninstalled the touch drivers and restarted the surface. The touch function on the screen is still not working, any furthur suggestions?
Probably you have issues with board.
Matjaž -
@bryce Stevenson tries connections also the ribbon cable connecting digitizer and LCD. I would assume the screen is faulty defective if that doesn’t work!
Note that pictures here do not include a portion of the "Antenna Wireless WiFi Cover Trim Flex Cable" at the top on either side of the Surface's cameras underneath the screen. There are two thin soft layers that can be pulled away from that assembly during screen removal.
There are warnings about this, but it is difficult to do well. Especially without good reference photos to know what to expect.
Also, the iOpener method doesn't personally seem feasible having attempted it. Would suggest heating pad. (Or heat gun as recommended, but beware as edges of case are easily tarnished by prolonged or high heat.)
Just a heads up, this is so much more difficult when the entire screen is cracked. Instead of being able to just separate the screen by sliding the opening pick, you will have to scrape off each small piece of glass from the adhesive along the edge. The one section of my screen that wasn't cracked was super easy to separate from the adhesive with a heat gun. That being said, I have installed the new screen, and everything does seem to be in good working order.
One more tip, if you broke your screen with a drop, inspect the frame and make sure it isn't bent in and would otherwise not allow the new screen to sit inside flush. My top right corner that had damage from impact has the frame bent in so that the screen corner sits on top of the frame instead of within it. No good way to bend the metal out with the screen stuck to the new adhesive. Just double check and fix it before installing the new screen!
successfully remove and implemented another screen
I removed the old screen and cleaned off the adhesive. Plugged in the new screen's ribbon cables and attempted to power it back on. I get the Windows logo to appear and it quickly returns to black screen. However the system continues to boot and I am even able to log in when I plug it into an external monitor. Do you have any suggestions for how to troubleshoot it further?
I had to re-seat the ZIF connectors (step 26) 3 times before it worked
Ben -
What device is used for this tutorial?
I ask because of a couple of factors;
1) the screen in the tutorial has a silver block to the left (looking at back of LCD) of the LCD ribbon connector; however the original LCD for the Surface Pro 7 (and the photos of the replacement you sell) does not have that.
-- This causes the LCD flex cable to be too short to replace the screen--
Looking at the tutorial it appeared that I had the correct replacement screen, but in fact, I did not. not your fault, but it does make it difficult to rely on your guide to be accurate if it is not of the actual device you say it is for.
I did a lot of digging into this; it appears Microsoft made two versions of their LCD (LP123WQ1 & LP123WQ2) the one in this Guide is version 1 (Q1 of the two options) but Version 2 uses a smaller Cable and has the connector farther to the left than Version 1
Just saying to let people know that you need to be aware of this going into it; unfortunately, there is no way to know which version you have unless you open it up and remove the old one before you order the new one.
I bought wrong model of display too (LP123WQ2 from iFixit)
But after that I ordered cable for this display (LCD Flex Cable for Microsoft Surface Pro 7 1866 ) - and could attach display.
So, not it works good!
Bonjour, j'ai fait le changement de l'écran mais je n'ai pas gardé l'adhésif comme indiqué (je n'ai pas bien lu). Savez-vous ou je peux me procurer un adhésif similaire?
Avec mes meilleures salutations.
Hello, I changed the screen but I didn't keep the adhesive as indicated (I didn't read it correctly). Do you know where I can get a similar adhesive?
With my best regards.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115477361245?...
cheapest i could find
Ben -
ive replaced surace pro 7 screens in the past using i fix it procedures. im in the process of fixing another screen and was browsing screens and found screens that stated "no frame". ive never seen the term beforeand wanted clarification. is the frame the metal board that supports the lcd/digitizer?
Hi! The version for sale on iFixit (https://www.ifixit.com/products/surface-...) is not specified.
There are two versions of this screen. Version 1 and Version 2. They are incompatible based on their connectors. Completely indistinguishable from the outside (because Microsoft has to make it even harder to repair it by making sure you can't order the screen before disassembly). Physically the connector is the same, but it is in a different place, so the screen will not align properly if you get the wrong version replacement.
What version is it for sale on the iFixit page?
Comments did not load when I originally made this comment, but was answered by Thomas Niegisch and Виктор Ганелес above; iFixit sells the V2 of the screen only, so if you need V1 you should find somewhere else to purchase.
