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Einleitung
Verwende diese Anleitung, um die Display-Einheit des Motorola Moto G 1. Generation auszutauschen.
Was du brauchst
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Nimm die Rückabdeckung aus Kunststoff mit einem Kunststoff-Öffnungswerkzeug oder einfach mit deinen Händen ab. Beginne unten am Ladeanschluss.
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Entferne alle eingelegten SIM-Karten und microSD-Speicherkarten.
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Drücke die SIM-Karte in das Telefon, damit der Feder-Auswurfmechanismus die Karte lösen kann.
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Die microSD-Speicherkarten haben möglicherweise keinen Auswurfmechanismus. Falls das der Fall ist, müssen sie vorsichtig durch Drücken auf die erhabene Kante beziehungsweise den Wulst, der in die Karte integriert ist, entfernt werden. Verwende deinen Fingernagel oder ein Kunststoff- oder Gummiwerkzeug, aber keines, das die empfindliche Karte zerkratzen und beschädigen könnte.
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Drehe die insgesamt 14 Schrauben (3,5 mm) an der rückseitigen Schutzabdeckung mit einem T5-Torx-Schraubendreher heraus.
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Verwende ein Kunststoff-Öffnungswerkzeug, um die Schutzabdeckung zu entfernen.
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Trenne die Verbindung zwischen dem Akku und der Hauptplatine mit dem Werkzeug.
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Da der Akku bereits abgeklemmt ist, fahre mit dem Werkzeug vorsichtig am Rand entlang, um ihn aus der Baugruppe zu lösen.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Entferne die Kunststoff-Schutzabdeckung mit der Pinzette.
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Klappe die Halteklappe am großen Displaykabel-ZIF-Steckverbinder hoch.
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Ziehe das Displaykabel vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Motherboard.
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Klappe die Halteklappe am kleinen ZIF-Steckverbinder hoch, der sich in der Mitte des Displaykabels befindet.
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Sobald das Flachbandkabel gelöst ist, heble es mit der Pinzette von der Hauptplatine ab.
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Fahre mit dem Kunststoff-Werkzeug langsam an den Rändern des Smartphones entlang, um das Display vom Motherboard zu lösen.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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9 Kommentare zur Anleitung
A complement to this guide: I purchased the replacement screen, but not the full frame. So I had to do the heat gun (*ahem* hair dryer) trick of heating up the edge of the frame to remove the screen (with the help of an X-acto knife and plastic spudger). Not difficult.
But upon reassembly, you absolutely must have adhesive to replace that which is lost around the frame, or a sticky sheet to put behind the screen, or the screen will simply fall out when the phone is inverted.
The part I ordered did include a transparent adhesive sheet to place behind the new screen and anchor it in space in the event that the edge adhesive was insufficient (even with more heat) to secure the screen. But as it was a chinese discount order, the part arrived with no instructions. I assumed the sheet was a bonus screen protector sheet. Imagine my surprise, after having fully reassembled the phone, to discover it's true purpose - which would require full disassembly to install...
From where did you order the screen?
Watch out! The earphone speaker is glued with tape to the back of the screen. If you try and remove it with tweezers it will disintegrate. Better to leave it on, then slice it off with a razor blade once the screen is off.
Also, if you do need to keep your frame (and remove as per the hot air trick in the previous comments), be careful that the screen is flush in the repaired item - if it protrudes at all it will break again next time you drop the phone. I ended using a few dabs of superglue (applied from the outside after re-assembly) as my double-sided tape didn't really do the job. Also if the screen is not quite flush by the earphone speaker, the speaker contacts will not make good electrical connection as they reply on pressure from the screen to hold them against their contacts.
Peter
Like the commenters above, the screen I ordered off of eBay came as just he display and not the frame, so I had to figure out the last bit from the comments rather than with pictures. I wasn't clear on how the heat gun step worked and after warming things up was surprised that the frame wasn't getting any more pliable. What I discovered is that the heat is just supposed to soften the adhesive that runs around the perimeter of the frame. I also wasn't clear on how much of the frame and display assembly was the screen part and how to get it loose. After inspecting my replacement screen I realized that the shiny silver element I could see through the pencil eraser sized round holes was the back of my screen, so I poked through those holes at the back of my screen to pop it loose. I didn't get any adhesive with my screen so I used super glue to reattach the display and it seems to be working just fine. The directions here worked very well for me, but I would have loved one final picture that showed this last step
Oh, and one more little addendum: to get the earphone speaker off I used the heat it up and poke it from the other side trick again and it worked well to not only get it off, but preserve the adhesive as well. Since I was concerned about getting it lined up properly when reapplying it I waited until I had the new screen reattached and then dropped it into the opening in the frame so it would be in just the right place. Also, because the tweezers I have kind of suck I ended up using a bamboo skewer to do most of the work in separating the screens ribbon cable from the board and in poking through holes to detach the parts. It worked great.