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Einleitung
Stell dir vor, es gibt irgendwo ein Essen - und es postet sich nicht selbst auf Instagram. Hier wird gezeigt, wie du die Rückkamera austauschen kannst.
Was du brauchst
Einführungsvideo
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Setze das Auswurfwerkzeug für SIM Karten in die Öffnung neben dem SIM Karten Einschub ein und drücke es hinein, um den Einschub herausspringen zu lassen.
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Entferne den SIM Karten Einschub.
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Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug in die Naht zwischen Gehäusevorderteil und Rückteil in der Nähe des SIM Karten Einschubs ein.
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Schiebe das Werkzeug die Naht entlang in Richtung der oberen Ecke.
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Schiebe das Plastiköffnungswerkzeug entlang der Naht in der Nähe der Kopfhörerbuchse an der Oberkante des Smartphones.
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Schiebe das Werkzeug vorsichtig entlang der Seite des Smartphones mit den Tasten.
Be *very* careful not to push the opening tool too deep when you go around the buttons! I accidentally broke the volume rocker ribbon by doing so, and didn't even realize it until I had completely removed the cover.
When i removed the volume rocker i cant get it back in correctly seems to be in right but the volume up is not clicking and only works if i push it really hard any ideas?
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Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug in die Naht direkt unter der Lautstärkewippe und weite den Spalt auf.
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Setze das Werkzeug auf der anderen Seite der USB Buchse ein und schiebe es um die Ecke.
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Erwärme den iOpener dreißig Sekunden lang.
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Wenn sich der iOpener während der Reparatur abkühlt, musst du ihn jeweils wieder dreißig Sekunden lang erwärmen.
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Hole den iOpener aus der Mikrowelle, fasse ihn dabei nur an einem der flachen Enden an. Vermeide die heiße Mitte.
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Lege den iOpener auf das Smartphone um den Kleber, der die Rückabdeckung befestigt, aufzuweichen. Lasse den Beutel ungefähr 90 Sekunden auf dem Gerät liegen, bevor du versuchst die Abdeckung zu entfernen.
There is NO GLUE holding on the back of a Moto X with a wood back! That little fact just made the extra $50 I spent on the phone totally worthwhile.
Lucky for you, I have the bamboo, and plenty of adhesive.
Kelly F -
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Beginne an der Seite mit dem SIM Karten Einschub vorsichtig die Rückabdeckung vom Gerät abzulösen.
Step 15 seemed to be the hardest part for me. (step 25, the battery was also difficult). I am now not a fan of sticky stuff, "Mild adhesive" is definitely an understatement, IMHO, just saying I don't like sticky stuff, maybe I didn't do it right. The iOpener seemed to help a little, but not much.
CAUTION
BE CAREFUL with the NFC antenna, it says "X8 Mobile Computing System" on it. The adhesive seemed stick to the the blue stuff on the back cover more and loosen up on the bottom of the antenna, the part that sticks to the battery. So in the process of peeling the back cover the antenna started to come up and was torn at the connector strip before I realized what was happening, step 19 has a good picture of the connector strip that I'm talking about. I like using NFC once in awhile, so now my next FIX will be the antenna.
Overall instructions were GREAT, I now have a camera again. Thank you.
So you are saying that there is no problem if I don't connect the NFC antenna? I'm asking this because I bought a replacement battery that don't include the NFC antenna. I would really appreciate your help with this :)
The adhesive was crazy hard on mine as well and I ended up with two small cracks on the edges of my back cover. The blue rubber piece actually separated from the back and removed it from the battery after it was open. The battery itself was also very difficult to remove (pull tab did nothing) and bent/pried the old battery out. I see no reason for all that adhesive! Other than getting the dang thing open the rest was easy. Great guide!
The adhesive holding the back very strong! In the process of removing the back, I cracked the edges of the back cover and ripped part of the NFC connector. Luckily the friend I was doing the repair for did not even know what NFC was, so she was ok with this. Take your time removing the back cover! Also, the adhesive holding the battery in place was not what I would call mild. The black tab was next to useless in removing the battery
So you are saying that there is no problem if I don't connect the NFC antenna? I'm asking this because I bought a replacement battery that don't include the NFC antenna.
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Lege die Rückabdeckung sanft ab. Dabei soll der Verbinder am Flachbandkabel zum Blitz offen liegen, das Kabel aber nicht angespannt werden.
As I had seen in another video, my Moto X with a custom back did not have the blue sticky pad. But the back was still well-adhered in the top corners and with a strip of adhesive along the bottom. In the photo in this step you can see the only adhesive I had to deal with, which was on either side of the lens (two dark areas on the phone back) and along the bottom of the phone (dark area at the bottom of the phone back).
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Blitzkabels mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.
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Ziehe das Blitzkabel gerade aus dem Sockel.
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Entferne die vier 3 mm T3 Torx Schrauben, welche die untere Antenneneinheit am Smartphone befestigen.
It turns out to be the hardest step at the moment. I ordered iOpener set, and it is almost useless. It doesn't have t3, only t5, the actual iOpener is useless. I would happily order t3 on ifixit.com, but there is no t3 in Germany, so I ordered on amazon, and it turned out to be a complete $@$*, I was not able to take a single screw out. The guide is really good, I never thought I would have an issue with a screwdriver ....
These screws were definitely incompatible with my T3 bit - it was too small. T4 worked fine. Not sure if I should attribute this to an error in the guide or inconsistency in the size of my bit set; in any case it might be handy to have a T4 handy if you're not buying the iFixit screwdriver.
Drilled out the heads. A bit scary, yes. I agree with another commenter here that my T3 isn't the best fit in these screws. My T3 was a pretty cheap eBay acquisition, so who knows where the blame should go. I wouldn't do this repair again. Phones should be easier to break open than this one. Too much adhesive (and as I mentioned above, mine didn't even have the blue adhesive pad) and T3 heads are super small and asking to be stripped and the two screws I did get out were way too tight. Oh, and also the potential butchering of the cover when prying loose the clips. Mine bent a bit around the headphone jack, but it smoothed back down and is not noticeable. Phone powered up and is charging now. Let's hope it was worth it.
On my phone, the screws were DEFINITELY T4. My advise? Try T4 first. If it's too big, nothing lost.
I nearly stripped the head on one of mine with my T3 bit because it was too small to get traction.
I use chinese version of T3 screwdriver shipped with screen and T3/T4/T5 version of MATRIX tool set - both didnt fit for Moto X 1st gen screws. Only Bernstain T3 6-658 screwdriver fits ideally! Spent 2 days to find this tool. Be aware.
I was able to do this step by grinding down a cheap T3 that I had laying around from another repair. Like others, I found that these screws seem larger than a T3 - stripped one and had to drill it out. Since the T3 screwdriver I had was tapered, I ground it down until the end was large enough to grip the remaining screws. Success!
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Hebele die untere Antenneneinheit mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch und löse sie vom Gerät.
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Entferne die Antenneneinheit.
See that little circular rubber near the bottom right screw? This funnels the background noise to one of the noise canceling microphones. It will be destroyed when you take it off. Freaked me out when I first opened up mine.
This foam "funnel" required re-forming of the center hole (also check hole in back cover foam gasket). If this sound channel gets blocked, the noise canceling will not function properly. Before re-installing the lower antenna assembly, check the oblong 2-hole gasket on the back side of the antenna assembly which covers a sound channel to the offset microphone input hole. If deformed, gently reshape it with tweezers to assure both holes are not plugged.
my antenna going away after change battery
found networks but not registered , factory reset ,
please help me
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Wenn du das nicht willst, oder wenn du die Spule beschädigst, dann wird dein Smartphone weiter funktionieren, verliert aber seine NFC-Kapazitäten.
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Lege 90 Sekunden lang einen erwärmten iOpener auf die NFC-Antenne auf.
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Setze ein Plektrum unter eine der Ecken der NFC-Antenne ein und schiebe es langsam an der Kante entlang, wobei du den schwarzen Kleber aufschneidest.
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Schneide mit dem Plektrum weiter um die NFC-Antenne herum und löse den restlichen schwarzen Kleber ab.
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Entferne die NFC-Antenne vom alten Akku.
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Entferne die fünf 3 mm T3 Torx Schrauben an der Einheit aus Kopfhörerbuchse/Lautsprecher.
These screws appear to have some yellow locktite on them. I rounded 2 of them, so take caution and make sure your screw driver fits correctly. Otherwise you will need to find a drill press to extract them.
Is the glass glued to the LCD like the iPhone 5? Is it possible to repair a broken front glass without changing the whole assembly?
Yes and Yes. Just fixed mine.
Buy a Glass+Frame from ebay. Do steps 1-18 and 37. Then just open the bottom two torx screws, no more. They are the only ones connected to the front frame. Then heat&remove the glass, tear off the frame with pliers. Then you just need to clean the screen from residue and apply LOCA and the Glass+Frame.
All screws appear to be Torx T4.
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Setze einen Spudger unter das Anhängsel der Einheit aus Kopfhörerbuchse/ Lautsprecher und hebele diese aus ihrem Sitz.
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Entferne die Einheit aus Kopfhörerbuchse /Lautsprecher.
The microphone assembly has foam tape adhesive on it and will want to separate with the headphone jack / speaker assembly.
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Schiebe eine Spudgerspitze unter die Klammer an der Mikrofoneinheit und löse sie vom Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher.
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Löse den Verbinder am Kabel zur Mikrofoneinheit mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers.
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Entferne die Mikrofoneinheit mit einer Pinzette.
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Löse den Verbinder am Flachbandkabel zur Frontkamera.
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Hebe die Frontkamera mit einer Pinzette aus ihrem Sitz.
There is a thin black foam gasket (like a small washer) that is stuck to the front of this camera lens housing. On mine, the gasket was stuck off-center with the inner edge in the field of view of the lens. Using tweezers, I removed it and re-attached it on center. The image is now much sharper!
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Entferne die letzten beiden 3 mm T3 Torx Schrauben an der Halteklammer des SIM Einschubs.
On my XT1053 Developer Edition, the Torx screws on the sim slot bracket were not T3 like all the others, they were T4. Trying to use a T3 screwdriver resulted in twisting off the tip of the screwdriver. A T4 screwdriver removed them just fine.
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Setze das flache Ende des Spudgers unter die Hauptplatine über dem Kabel zur Tastengruppe und hebele sie aus dem Smartphone.
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Hebe die Hauptplatine vorsichtig aus dem Smartphone, drehe sie dabei weg von der Kante mit dem SIM Einschub.
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zum Display mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Ziehe vorsichtig das Displaykabel aus seinem Verbinder, während du die Hauptplatine von der Displayeinheit entfernst.
I also struggled getting this cable back in, I actually assembled it thinking it was "in enough", only to find out I had to take it back apart and push it in further.
I found that you can lay the screen face down, with the cable upright at a 90 degree angle, then push the motherboard down onto the cable. When it goes in enough, it snaps in fairly well. If it's not in enough, it will be impossible to close the clamp.
There is a small black plastic piece which goes over the proximity sensor which can easily fall off. If it does, the sensor will malfunction and think that you are always close, which means you will not be able to hang up or do anything else with your phone while you are on a call and will just have to wait for the other person to hang up. I had to do more or less the whole job over again to reinsert this piece (I couldn't tell where it had fallen from and just hoped my phone would be alright with out it).
This is discussed in the thread here:
Can you disable the proximity sensor, Moto X?
You can see the black plastic over the proximity sensor in these two photos:
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...
Whereas it is missing in this photo:
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...
(The sensor is on the lower left in this last photo).
When lifting the motherboard, note that there will be some resistance near the USB port due to an adhered foam gasket/funnel which channels sound from the tiny hole in the glass to the voice mic on the back side of the motherboard. Before re-installation of the motherboard, inspect the shape and hole in this foam gasket. It should look like cylindrical standoff about 0.1 inch tall. If it is not a clear sight to the tiny hole in the motherboard, sound will not reach the voice mic. I used the point of a spudger to re-form the hole.
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Klappe mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Anschluss des Kabels zur Rückkamera hoch.
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Entferne die Rückkamera von der Hauptplatine.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
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Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:
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4 Kommentare
This took me about an hour or so to do after I got the right tools. I ordered the iOpener "kit" and stupid me thinking that ifixit would directly link you from this page to a kit that works with it, so I didn't read that the kit comes with a T5 torx bit and not a T3. Also no tweezers. Other than that this guide works perfect. The only tricky parts really were getting the battery out; "mild adhesive" my !@#. I used the black tool to slowly pry the battery out. Be patient and the adhesive will give. The other tricky part was getting the motherboard plugged back in. I thought I had it in the first time but apparently didn't. If you get it all back together and all the phone does when you turn it on is do a 1-2sec vibrate every 10 sec or so then check the connection on the motherboard. Great guide for getting your phone DOD ready. Or any job that doesn't allow camera phones on site!
I was successful replacing both my non-functioning camera, a battery getting on the weak side, and a new back cover (went for one of those colorful back covers sold on eBay). The two things that tripped me up were 1) dealing with that sticky gasket between the antenna and the noise-canceling mic (Step 20), and 2) getting the cover glass to stay put on the new back cover. For 2), I ended up fashioning my own adhesive with 2-sided scotch tape.
*ALSO* You really don't need to do Step 35. Leave the motherboard plugged in, and simply remove and re-attach the camera in place.
I went through each step methodically and only had problems removing the top black cover in step #28. The assembly came off with the ear speaker attached to it, nonetheless was able to put it back. Just be wary that it might not be as easy as pictured.
When putting it all back together though I got an unwelcome surprise... somehow instead of getting the phone turning on and loading android, I got the symbol of the battery reading 80% and a large battery outline icon in the middle of the screen against white background with a light blue indicator reflecting visually that 80% charge. Anyone got a similar issue? I couldn't get android to start as it usually would. What gives? (Thanks for any help! :)
First I just want to say thank you for putting together this wonderful guide.
I've replaced the camera and it works but the camera has a problem focusing and all the pictures are blurry. Do you think it's the new camera or a software issue. This is the second camera I got from Phone Parts USA that has done this. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated!
Sim not work
Radhey Kashyap - Antwort