Einleitung
Hier wird das Öffnen einer Nespresso-Maschine von Magimix gezeigt. Die Krups-Version ist sehr ähnlich.
Bevor du das Gerät öffnest, solltest du erst prüfen, ob die Garantie noch gültig ist. Nach (teilweiser) Demontage hast du keinen Anspruch mehr auf Garantie.
Ziehe den Netzstecker und suche dir einen Arbeitsplatz, der die Maschinen nicht zerkratzt.
Was du brauchst
-
-
Entferne alles Wasser aus dem System (siehe Handbuch).
-
Bild 2: Explosionszeichnung.
-
-
-
Ziehe das Teil mit ziemlich viel Kraft heraus.
-
Nachdem ein Klicken zu hören war, kannst du das Teil direkt nach unten ziehen. Es sollte sich leicht lösen.
-
-
-
Schließe den Kapselhalter fest.
-
Drücke den Schraubendreher hinein und wackle ein wenig hin und her, um die Rasten zu lösen (siehe Bild 2 und 3). Es sind insgesamt vier Rasten.
Il serait bien de préciser de quel couvercle latéral on parle : le droit ou le gauche ? Merci.
-
-
-
Achte darauf, dass die Aussparung passt.
-
Ziehe die Abdeckung ab. Wenn ein kleiner Spalt entstanden ist, kannst du die Finger ein wenig nach oben setzen und an die Abdeckung seitlich wegziehen.
This is quite delicate, scary and slow! There are more clips and the side can get stuck on the metal lugs that stick out the side. You may have to ease the plastic cover over them.
-
-
-
Wiederhole das Ganze für die andere Seite.
La photo avec la main me semble trop zoomée. Un plan plus large serait plus explicite. Merci.
-
-
-
-
Trenne die drei Anschlussleiter (Null, Phase und Schutzleiter) ab.
-
Entferne das ganze Anschlusskabel.
-
-
-
Löse die Rasten mit einem dünnen Schraubendreher.
-
-
-
Lösen die Abdeckung an diesen vier Stellen und entferne sie.
When your machine is leaking, this is the right moment to diagnose it once this step is done. I suspect most pressure is on the parts when using a new cup. Screw back the lever to insert a new cup. Reconnect the power cord and put the water tank seat back on so the water container can be used.
When putting the machine back together this point is obviously also the right time to test if everything is working (again) as expected.
-
-
-
Bild 1: Heble hoch und ziehe nach oben.
-
Bild 2: Löse die beiden Rasten innen an der Abdeckung.
-
Bild 3: Drehe alles herum und hebe die Abdeckung ab.
-
-
-
Drücke auf die Einheit, damit sich die Lager des Hebels lösen. Ziehe sie dann heraus.
-
-
-
Entferne das Oberteil, indem du die Metallstifte entlang den L-förmigen Schlitzen gleiten lässt.
Il porta capsula può essere rimosso sganciando le due linguette;
sotto c'è un O-ring che più perdere acqua in pressione che poi fuoriesce sotto la macchina in funzione!
Qualcuno sa dove posso trovare l'O-ring di ricambio???
Grazie!
-
-
-
Löse die beiden Rasten auf einer Seite des Kaffeeauslaufs, dann auf der anderen.
-
-
-
Markiere eine der beiden schwarzen Leitungen, damit du sie später wieder richtig anschließen kannst.
-
Löse die gelbe und die braune Leitung ab.
-
Ziehe den weißen Stecker ab.
When putting the machine back together make sure the spring on the bottom of the pump is propely back in the seating. If not the machine will resonate like crazy.
-
-
-
Wackle an dem letzten schwarzen Plastikteil und löse es ab.
-
Heble den schwarzen und den weißen Schlauch ab.
-
-
-
Es ist etwas knifflig diese beiden Klammern zu lösen: Die rechteckige Fassung aus Kunststoff für die Metallklammern ist Bestandteil des U-Rohrs. Denke daran, wenn du dieses U-Rohr von den anderen beiden (Pumpe und Erhitzer) abtrennen willst. Ihre Enden sind konisch, das U-Rohr lässt sich leicht aufschieben, aber schwer lösen.
-
Schaue das Foto 1 an, der Hintergrund zeigt nach unten. Sorge dafür, dass das Metallrohr direkt oder am Erhitzer an einer rutschfesten Oberfläche (z.B. einer Gummimatte) abgesichert ist. Wenn du am Pumpenende beginnst, musst du dort gleichartig verfahren.
-
Drücke ein 2,5 mm dickes spitzes Werkzeug (rund oder flach) in die Drahtschleife, die aus der Mitte der Kunststofffassung herausragt. Die Schleife muss nicht weiter herauskommen, mit einem passenden Schraubendreher kannst du sie aber etwa 1 mm aufweiten.
-
Ziehe die linke und die rechte Schulter der Metallklammer soweit wie möglich aus der Kunststofffassung auseinander. Setze ein gleichartiges 2,5 - 3,5 mm dickes spitzes Werkzeug zwischen die Außenkante der Fassung und den offenen Drahtenden der Klammer ein. Setze nahe bei den Schultern ein.
-
Nun wird die Drahtklammer an drei Stellen auseinander gezogen. Überprüfe, ob der Draht in der Mitte der Fassung nicht mehr am Rohr anliegt, sondern gerade noch über den Rand des konusförmigen Flansches herausragt.
-
Schaue wieder wie auf Foto 1 (oder gleichartig von der Pumpenseite her). Drücke die Kunststofffassung mit den Fingern auf jeder Seite des Rohrs vom Erhitzer (oder der Pumpe) weg nach unten. Eventuell musst du ein wenig ruckeln, um die Metallklammer über die letzten Millimeter des Flansches zu bekommen.
-
Nun sollte sich die Verbindung lösen. Wenn nicht, dann schaue dir nochmals genau an, wie die Metallklammer in der Mitte der Fassung um das Rohr herum liegt. Korregiere eventuell die Lage der drei Werkzeuge, mit denen die Klammer auseinander gehalten wird.
-
Wenn sich die Verbindung gelöst hat, ist der O-Ring leicht zugänglich. Der innere Durchmesser ist etwa 3 mm, der äußere etwa 5 mm, er ist etwa 1 mm dick.
-
-
-
Bild 1 und 2 zeigen die sich verjüngenden Kanten, diese halten die Drahtklammer an Ort und Stelle. Die Neuinstallation ist einfach. Drücke sie einfach hinein.
-
Soweit bin ich gekommen. In meinem Fall leckte das rechts auf Bild 3 gezeigte Teil zwischen Metall und Kunststoff. Leider konnte es nicht weiter zerlegt werden.
Van you mark the spot where it was leaking?
I noticed the water in between the plastic and metal part. Only later I was able to take the heater apart with force, the leak was inside, in de middle.
The black part twists a bit to one side that way you can get it off. Needs quite some force, though!
I have a leak at exactly the same spot. How do you fix this? I first thought it was the small o-ring, but I think it's where the heating pipe exits the heater…
I had the same issue and by rotating the plastic part this can be removed from the boiler housing. Inside there is a small o-ring which in my case was worn. Now need to find replacement ring…
Hey Jeroen, I had the same leakage problem, and want to replace the o ring! did you manage to find out which o ring you need? I suspect it is this one, but not sure: https://www.partsnl.nl/ms-0019105-krups-...
Hello, I did not test yet but I replaced the Oring by a nitrile P5 (4.8x1.9) Oring from a Oring kit I have. It fits well and need a little push that feel secured. I recommend nitrile Oring given the temperature and not rubber.
Also got it off, using a screw driver on on side to rotate to the side where there is visibly space to move to. Inside tough, I couldn't find anything, also not that o - ring! Tomorrow I'll take another look I guess. I was wondering if any of you managed to fix the leakage problem in the end, as it seems I have the same problem (magimix m105)
Hi, I had the same problem and arrived to the same step, but I couldn't remove the plastic part from the metal part. In fact I broke a bit the plastic part when forcing it.
I would also like to know if anyone finally fixed it.
Thanks!
Hi, I am close, just ordered a new o ring and will try to assemble tonight or tomorrow, I could show you a little video how to do it if you give me your email, I don't know how to post it here.
I managed to separate the heater from black inner. Held in a vice, gentle tap to turn clockwise and it opens.
There is a little o-ring inside the end of the black plastic. I pulled it out cleaned and reversed it back in.
re-assembled it does not appear to leak, for now at least.
Do you happen to have pictures of the process? I have the same issue and can’t split the heater from the front plastic panel
Can you please show some photos of how to split the black plastic from the heater? Thank you very much in advance
Anyone find the right o-ring to fix the leakage. I tried 2 different one, it all seems to thinner than the original one
VauWeh -
Hi everyone. I seem to have the same exact leak as you all do but haven’t managed to separate the heater from the plastic part yet. I wasn’t planning to as I wanted to fully replace the part. And well, I didn’t think it would be so complicated to find that spare part. You can easily get it from european websites but it’s 230V… For some reason, I cannot find the heater element in 120V through North-American sellers… does anyone know where I could buy one? Thanks a lot :)
Hello Sir. May I ask except for the heater, is there any other part only work in 120V? I have a broken 120v machine ( CPU board broken ) and another broken 220V machine (black plastic part in the heater broken). I want to put the 220v CPU board and heater into the 120V machine. I am wondering if the pump is working on 120V? or it works on a fixed Voltage output by the CPU board? Thank you in advance.
Hoi, Ik wil de Inissia aanpassen voor camping gebruik. Hiervoor zou ik een diode vb P2000M in lijn moeten zetten met de verwarmingsweerstand. Ik heb geprobeerd om de diode in de gele draad te zetten die naar het drukblok loopt (de gele draad die in stap 11 is te zien). Maar dat werkt niet. Het resultaat is een toestel waarvan de lampjes 3 keer kort flitsen, pauze en weer 3 keer kort flitsen. De diode zit dus mogelijk op de verkeerde plaats. Kunnen jullie me verder helpen?
I used a large crowbar as a lever to open the brew unit's bayonet assembly. As mentioned elsewhere, the size of the o-ring (in the cavity of the large black plastic part into which the small black plastic sleeve and metal pipe slide) is 4.8x1.9 mm. In my case, replacing this o-ring did not stop the leakage. A lot of work with no favourable end result. The brew unit does not seem to be made for repair. Regarding the two metal springs and the tiny pipe in the middle of them (behind the cup holder), the following video is useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TY_B_Ytz...
-
-
-
Der Zusammenbau geschieht in umgekehrter Reihenfolge. Die nächsten beiden Schritte zeigen, worauf du besonders achten solltest.
-
Bild 1: Umkehrung von Schritt 11: es geht am einfachsten, wenn du die Seite flach hinlegst und in das innere Gehäuse auf sie herablässt.
-
Bild 2: Umkehrung von Schritt 12: Achte darauf, dass der schwarze Schlauch über dem weißen verläuft.
-
Schiebe den Gummianschluss über die Pumpe.
Also photo 2: make sure the spring is pushing against the plastic flange, and not going through it as pictured. The machine will be very noisy otherwise.
Please clarify do you mean the tube should not be within the spring?
anony Ab -
I think he means that in my photo, on the right side of the spring it went through the cutout in the plastic housing. The tube does need to go through the spring, but the spring needs to be a bit more compressed to seat in the plastic rim. Imagine the spring in my photo to be compressed to about half its current length and it's still touching the left white plastic part.
-
-
-
Bild 1: Vergiss diese Abdeckung nicht.
-
Bild 2: Umkehrung von Schritt 10: Achte darauf, dass die Rasten in die Aussparungen passen.
This machine seems to be identical to the Krupps model XN1001. Your instructions were very helpful with the reassembly.
Hey, my nespresso inissia’s cup holder fell off when I was emptying the used pods. I can’t seem to re-attach it. I didn’t find any broken or missing parts either. Please can you contact me on my email: sheza.umar@yahoo.com if you can help me out with it? Thank you!
My clips don't secure the tube to the water heater, leading to leakage. How do you secure the clips? I ended up buying some new clips thinking it would make a difference but they are still very loose and don't hold the tube in
Would you know the size of the o ring in the chamber?
Thank you, this description helped me a lot to repair my DeLongi Type EN 80 B (same). My problem was a o-ring in the pump (inner diameter 4,1 x 2). It was getting hard and the pump did not work any more. I replaced it with a diameter 3,5 x 2 and the machine make good coffee now again.
Traducido a Español el comentario de Matthias:
Gracias, esta descripción me ayudó mucho a reparar mi DeLongi Tipo EN 80 B (igual). Mi problema era una junta tórica en la bomba (diámetro interior 4,1 x 2). Se estaba endureciendo y la bomba ya no funcionaba. La cambié por una de diámetro 3,5 x 2 y la máquina vuelve a hacer buen café.
Me ha venido perfecto tu manual, la férrea me pierde Justo por la unión que comentas y he desmontado la pieza! Para sacarla es necesario girarla el sentido horario con fuerza pero con tiento, y ahí se aloja un sello que se deforma con el tiempo.
-
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, beachte insbesondere die Schritte 19 und 20.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, beachte insbesondere die Schritte 19 und 20.
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
70 weitere Nutzer:innen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.
Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:
100%
Diese Übersetzer:innen helfen uns, die Welt zu reparieren! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Hier starten ›
25 Kommentare
I wanted to diagnose a leak so I took it apart to about step 10, set the water tank in place, plugged it in, and started a cycle. The heater got hot (the large metal assembly at the top) and when the pump came water gushed out of the joint with the tricky spring clip, the rear one that connects to the metal pipe leading into the heater.
I disassembled the clip (unplugged first and let it cool off) and found that the O-ring inside the joint was split. Now to find a replacement.
Hi Leon, thanks for taking the time to make this guide.
I followed to step 11. Then I noticed the boiler had lots of white limescale streaks on it, indicating a leak. I think this is the part you diagnosed as leaking for you. I’ve decided to give up unfortunately.
Cheers John
There's another stage you can go! The plastic moulding the pod fits into can be removed from the boiler casting. You need to rotate the moulding about 15° clockwise on the boiler using a bit of leverage between the trunions and the moulding both sides. It's rather stiff but once turned it releases a sort of bayonet fitting retaining the moulding to the boiler.
Inside there's another ‘O' ring, that can be suspect for a leak, and a plastic sleeve behind it.
Thank you! Great addition.
do you know the size of the o-ring?
Alex, I haven't measured or taken pictures. The ring is approx 8 mm in diameter (from memory!). Don't know is this is of much use for you, though.
Good luck!
the seal is 4.8x1.9mm
Well done Steven Wilkes
This is a nice guide for a machine that I found to be a nightmare to work on - mainly due to the (all too common) practice of using snap-together plastic components, rather than screws. After the plastic has aged for a few years it inevitably becomes brittle and the clips often break during disassembly. My machine was a Krups Nissia XN100 model what was just on five years old. While there were some differences in the design, your guide was very useful - particularly so because your photos are clear and detailed. I found a leak at the “front” of the heater at the join to the black plastic moulding that forms part of the heater assembly. In an earlier comment, I saw that it’s possible to separate the plastic moulding from the heater so that the O-ring seal can be replaced. Despite applying quite a lot of force, I couldn’t get mine apart :-( I’ve since found that I can buy a new machine for less than three times the cost of a new heater assembly, so I decided to abandon the repair.
Can someone tell me if there is a small circuit-board battery in there that one can remove/replace to reset the machine?
Thanks for this excellent guide. I am nearly there, a utube video suggests it is an o ring. Just need to get the second inner side off now and I should be there! I suspect I will need glue/gaffer tape to re-assemble, I heard a lot of clips breaking to get to this stage…..
This video might help too: https://youtu.be/TY_B_Ytz0Yw
Great helpful guide! My heater assembly was leaking. Ordered a new one on partmaster.co.uk which was half the price of one on a Dutch website. For certainty I also replaced the high pressure connector and o-rings.
I also had a leak between the metal and plastic part of the heater assembly. This was due to a worn o-ring. I could get the plastic part removed by rotating and applying a bit of force. I replaced the o-ring with a new MS-0071881 but still it was leaking. I assumed due to little pressure reamaining. I added a second o-ring on the other side of the small plastic pipe inside the boiler, this added just some extra pressure on the new sealing ring to make it seal.
Buongiorno, la mia inissia si surriscalda troppo, dopo un solo caffè diventa bollente nella parte superiore, il caffè è ustionante, prima di berlo devono passare almeno 7/8 minuti. Cosa può essere?
Mrci bcp vip
For the Magimix the O-ring in the chamber has OD 32mm with a ringwidth of 3mm, so ID(32-6=)26 Look for FDA/ Foodgrade O-rings, with compound ‘70’. They are availlable online (in the Netherlands at least, prices range from eur 8,50 (10-pack) to eur 6,50 a piece.)
Type info: O-ring 32x3 - VMQ - MVQ - Silicone - 70 Shore A - Red - FDA - ORS9901
Excelente informe de despiece, muchas gracias por compartirlo
can someone tell me why there isnt any water coming out of my machine, yes the pump does still turn onn but there isnt any water coming out.
hi ,
can i buy spare parts from ifixit ? for example the white plastic pin inside the thin spring at step 13
thanks
Hola Ahmed Abbas Ifixit no dispone de piezas de repuesto de Nespresso, piezas tan concretas generalmente no se venden ni por otros distribuodores has de comprar un conjunto.
Hola Carlos López ,
muchas gracias
cuando pulso los botones,se encienden los dos haciendo pausas cada tres encendidos ,y no paran que puede ser el motivo ??, gracias
moy5099 - Antwort
Prueba esto: Apague la máquina, mantenga pulsado el botón derecho (vaso grande) hasta que el botón izquierdo parpadee 3 veces, listo. Si esto no funciona: Apague, desenchufe, espere 1min, enchufe y continúe como arriba.
Si tienes mala suerte, esta es la causa: Nespresso CitiZ Kondensatoren tauschen
VauWeh -
Nello spaccato manca la parte che sta a contatto con le capsule e la leggenda con i numeri di riferimento dei pezzi.
Riccardo Ricci - Antwort