Einleitung
Hier wird der Austausch des Touchscreen gezeigt. Dazu musst du zuerst die Hauptplatine und anhängende Teile ausbauen.
Was du brauchst
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Lockere die beiden 4,2 mm langen Kreuzschlitzschrauben #0, die sich oben auf der hinteren Abdeckung befinden.
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Halte das Gerät mit der Rückabdeckung nach oben.
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Fange in der Ecke rechts oben an die Rückabdeckung mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug abzuhebeln.
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Halte die Ecke offen, so dass sie nicht wieder einschnappt.
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Schaue dir die Stelle unter dem Fach für den Stylus genau an. Heble die Abdeckung ab, falls nötig.
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Hebe die Abdeckung ab und lege sie beiseite.
Note that on the lower side (opposite to the hinges), there are small hooking tabs. These require you to lift the top (screw side) off towards you, then the lower area.
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Setze das Plastiköffnungswekzeug in die Öffnung rechts vom Akku ein.
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Hebe den Akku aus dem unteren Gehäuseteil heraus.
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Entferne ihn und lege ihn beiseite.
My 👴 grandpa was helping me 🔧 repair my 3ds xl and ⚡️electrocuted himself with the 🔋battery while we was taking it out with a 🔪 knife. 💀 Rip grandpa 😔
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Links und rechts vom Einschub für die Cartridges befinden sich oben zwei Gummifüße. Entferne sie mit einer Pinzette.
I found that the rubber bumps don't move easily, you'll likely have to use a lot of upward force to move them.
I torn one of the bumpers because I used a needle instead.
You do have a pry a bit. I tore one a little but not that big of a deal.
try twisting upward
My 3DS XL is so old that the rubber bumpers were very hard to remove.
So I tried to heat the rubber bumpers a little bit with a hair dryer for 15-20 seconds, with some pauses every 5 seconds in order to avoid overheating or damaging something as a precaution.
It worked well to remove them but the only drawback is that as my rubber bumpers already got damaged and scratched because of my previous attempts without heating first, heating it up after aggravated the scratch damages when I used tweezers.
So I would recommend heating the rubber bumpers moderately first and be gentle when using something that could scratch or damage them.
(Do not take my words for it, it may not work for you)
I was able to remove mine that were being very difficult with some dull tweezers. I used dull ones because I didn't want to scratch anything. First I wedged it between the plastic and the bumper, wiggled it a tiny bit, pulled it out, wedged it again in another spot and continued this until I got it out with my fingernail. Neither the bumper nor my shell were damaged.
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Entferne sechs 6,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben # 00.
#000 ifixit philips screwdriver does not fit the 6.2mm screws. Whats the deal?
I have a 000 Phillips from tekton and it worked just fine.
Megan -
I stripped a good #000 screwdriver, and found that EVERY screw actually fit perfect and snug with a #00 screwdriver. Zero damage to the screws or the screwdriver with the #00.
I bought and used the #00 screwdriver, and it worked perfectly for this.
I had also bought the #000, but I never needed it during the entire operation.
All 6 screws are exactly the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up.
One of the screws in my 3ds XL seems to have its '+' engraving worn off, i can't seem to unscrew it, though the other 5 unscrewed properly. What should I do?
I stripped a screw in my 3ds xl and don’t know how to get it out. Do I have to use a drill or is there another way?
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Entferne die 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #00 über dem Einschub für die Cartridges.
between these two steps, the bottom two screws are not mentioned. make sure to take those out too ;)
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Sei sicher, dass die SD Karte entfernt ist. Fange an der Unterkante an das untere Gehäuseteil mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug abzulösen und gehe rings um das Gehäuse.
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Zwei Flachbandkabel verbinden das Gehäuse mit der Hauptplatine. Ziehe nicht zu fest am Gehäuse damit die Kabel nicht beschädigt werden.
Make sure that you have removed your SD card, otherwise that'll keep you from completing this step.
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Unter den rechten und linken Tasten befinden sich zwei Flachbandkabel. Löse die Verbinder mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug.
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Entferne das untere Gehäuseteil vom Gerät und lege es beiseite.
Thank you so much for pointing that out, it was keeping my system from starting up and I thought I blew it!
Yup, that is definitely an upside-down IR board, and will result in a silent post error. It was driving me crazy trying to figure out why the system wouldn't start up.
That's it!! Thanks so much!! I've tinkered around about one month and couldn't get this thing to work...all because I've followed the guide here and looked the picture up twice so I don't put the IR-Board in the wrong way...
Thank you guys so much! I followed everything faithfully and it was DOA on startup. (Black screens, blue light). The IR board was backwards. These pictures need to be fixed. As-is, it shows a broken 3DS.
You should always work on the device in a 3/4 open position- this allows the ribbon cables to have slack and will less likely tear, and is the only position the hinge pin can be removed or installed as it is keyed
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Lege das Gerät mit dem Einschub für die Cartridges nach oben.
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Finde das Schiebepad auf der rechten Seite.
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Entferne die beiden 7,5 mm Schrauben oben links und unten rechts.
Careful you don’t lose the little washer on the circle pad stem. It’s not held down by anything.
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Hebe das Schiebepad mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug heraus.
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Wende dabei nicht zu viel Kraft an. Ein Flachbandkabel verbindet noch das Schiebepad mit der Hauptplatine.
I found it easy to put my finger ontop of the board and apply a little pressure. When i popped off the board, my finger stopped it flying off.
I made a small mistake by popping the circle pad joystick and it went flying off and now im stuck trying to put it back in
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zum Schiebepad auf der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Löse das Flachbandkabel und das Schiebepad.
The 'flat head' holds it in place when down, and you can reattach your ribbon cable when it's up, it only needs to be partway in so when you close the flat head, if your joystick board can't move easily in place then you've done it right, it it's too loose, try again to work the ribbon cable under.
The ribbon goes into the left side of the "flat head" right? Not the end that clamps down on the right? I'm having a !&&* of a time sliding the end of the ribbon into the little space between the flat head when it's up and the side of the terminal.
For those of you like me, who got stuck after the last step.
To understand how to actually remove the circle pad, continue with these steps at 21.
Nintendo 3DS Schiebepad austauschen
Hope it helps those after me. I almost ripped some cabling inside thinking I had to take out the motherboard.. luckily I didn't.
Just as what monk333y said, follow the Original 3DS steps. They are identical and you don't have to remove anymore big parts. The only annoying part is taking out the circle pad.
I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.
Did the hot glue work? I did the exact same thing now im not sure what to do…
When testing the touchscreen, make sure you install the analog. Otherwise, the screen will act erratic. Thought I broke a brand new part. Just a heads up!
The entire top part of my circle pad had broken off, so I had no problem getting the old one out. I actually had more trouble getting the ribbon cable back into the clip, and the new circle pad attached to the stick, than any other part.
That said, this was way, way easier than I expected it to be.
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Lege das Gerät mit dem Einschub für die Cartridges nach oben.
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Finde die Infrarotplatine oben rechts auf der Hauptplatine.
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Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug unter die Infrarotplatine und hebe sie vorsichtig heraus.
One assumes they forgot to take the photo before removal and quickly put it back on upside down (accidentally) for the purposes of taking the photo.
Removing the IR board is actually a completely unnecessary step. It's absolutely fine to leave the IR board attached to the motherboard, it's then one less loose piece to go missing ;)
The reason they remove these "easily loosable" pieces is because there's an order to put the board back together or the 3DS won't turn on. This is for replacing the motherboard, which most of the time you will buy and it won't come with the microphone, volume or IR board. Use your head kiddo. If it's so easy to loose these pieces, you should keep better track of them. We might as well just not take out any screws as well because those are very easy to loose
You should add this note to the other uses of this picture; I accidentally knocked that chip off and reinstalled it upside down. I was referencing the photos for replacing the joystick.
You skipped removing the microphopne.
I agree my 3dxl the IR board is also part of the motherboard and doesnt come off.
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Hebe die WiFi Platine mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug hoch.
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Die WiFi Platine ist weiterhin mit einem Kabel verbunden. Es ist nicht notwendig dieses zu lösen, es genügt die Platine für diesen Schritt aus dem Weg zu legen.
Component on bottom left was taken off, but not mentioned. Not sure what it does it does, and I'm assuming it's unimportant, but I just wanted to note.
The thing on the bottom left in the little black rubber cover is the mic!
Why not just seperate the wifi board from the antenna now while in your hands? You're going to do it later anyway...
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Finde die Lautstärketaste rechts auf der Hauptplatine in der Nähe des Schiebepads.
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Entferne die Platine mit dem Lautstärkeregeler mit einer Pinzette vom Gehäuse. Sie ist immer noch mit der Hauptplatine durch ein Kabel verbunden.
As previously commented, in this step the microphone (lower left corner) was removed.
This is done by opening the grey flap, removing the ribbon from the motherboard and then either remove it or just let it sit in it’s place.
In my experience the motherboard will go around it easily.
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Kippe den Haltebügel am Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zur Lautstärkeregelung auf der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vorsichtig nach oben.
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Entferne die Platine der Lautstärkeregelung und lege sie beiseite.
This step proved to be unnecessary. It's perfectly fine to leave it attached, and again it's one less small fiddly piece to go missing.
What if I pushed flap too hard and detached and cant find. Now I unable to secure in. Is there a part for this?
Its is the small grey flap that holds in the ribbon.
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Entferne die Plastikstücke in den Ecken unten rechts und links mit dem Finger oder einer Pinzette.
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Du kannst sie auch entfernen indem du das Gerät herum drehst, dann fallen sie heraus. Verliere sie nicht.
Does anything happen if you lose them or not, that last part made me a little worried?
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Hebe die Sicherungen an den beiden kleinen Flachbandkabeln an der Hauptplatine hoch.
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Du findest sie oben rechts und unten rechts auf der Hauptplatine.
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Löse die beiden Kabel.
For the first picture on step 17, (the one at the top of the board) what does that cable connect to? My clip broke.
MMM as far as I can tell it looks like it's for the touch screen as it plugs into p13 and is the same plug type as p10, p12 and p17 and a couple others. Could be wrong though :)
Connor -
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Klappe die Sicherungsbügel an den etwas breiteren Flachbandkabeln mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Löse die Kabel.
Had some trouble with this: Not exactly sure why, but when after successfully replacing the screen and beginning to resemble, while reinserting the wide ribbon for the lower LCD (p8) it seems that the white locking clip unhinged itself from the connector, and bent some of the pins. The ribbon now won't fully insert.. Can't figure out if I've somehow completely ruined my 3ds. Mostly concerned about my save data that's not on my sdcard.
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Flachbandkabel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Löse das Flachbandkabel.
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Entferne zehn 3,0 mm Schrauben rings um die Hauptplatine.
I took a micrometer to these screws, they are not 5.5 mm long.
These screws are 3.0mm long.
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Hebe die Platine sorgfältig gerade soweit hoch, dass die beiden Plastikbefestigungen an den beiden oberen Ecken des Einschubs für die Cartridges frei werden.
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Kippe die Platine vorsichtig über die Oberkante.
Laying it down like this puts too much stress on the ribbon cable. I find it better to release the connector while the board is tilted at a 90 degree angle to the body of the 3DS. Less chance of damage to the top screen cable that way.
Add to this step, during reassembly: make sure the volume slider and wi-fi sliders are lined up correctly with their outer switches.
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Hebe vorsichtig die Sicherung am Verbinder des breiteren Flachbandkabels in der oberen rechten Seite der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Löse das Flachbandkabel.
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Lege die Hauptplatine zur Seite.
So I tore this wire is this the visual or something?? Please help
How do you get this cable back in? It is way too short...
Tweezers, steady hand, and a little luck.
When fixing, I can't put the 2 wires in the connector. HELP!
Don't unplug this cable. Just leave the motherboard flat and don't move it while replacing the face button(s). This thing is way too hard to get back in.
It's hard to put it back but it's doable if you spend a lot of time, it took me around an hour and a half, also make sure you put it well because the first time, it was not fully inserted and the screen was flickering with gray lines so after I reinserted it worked fine.
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Klappe das Gerät am Scharnier auf.
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Drücke vorsichtig am Touchscreen nach oben und löse ihn aus dem Gehäuse.
Hi everybody,
Just to comment that they have some adhesive double tape between the LCD/touchscreen and the case. So be careful too.
I found that using a spudger to wedge it worked for me.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
62 weitere Nutzer:innen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.
Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:
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what if you need to replace the screen on the top housing? what is it called.
Is the bottom LCD screen of the Nintendo 3ds xl, the same as the one in the NEW Nintendo 3ds xl?
Looking for what part to buy.
Bit old, but did you figure out the answer which to buy?
White -
Very detailed and easy to use step by step thanks. However, after reassembly after I switch the power button on it starts and then a flash and it trips out? Obviously a fault somewhere but not sure where to start.? Any thoughts appreciated.
That's to do with a part this tutorial skips: you need to put some insulation between the new screen and the motherboard. That's what that orange film is on the back of the screen in the photos. When replacing, you can easily (carefully) remove that film and stick it onto the back of the new screen, no problem. Or you can put some other sort of adhesive to create some insulation between the screen and motherboard. Hope this helps.
where can i get replacement adhesive tape? my touchscreen is fine, but the system was previously owned by a child so the adhesive lining is filled with food bits and whatnot, tried google but can't find anything so far.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I was able to fix my DS thanks to this after I dropped it and the touchscreen became weird. The problem I was having was a black touch screen with a glitched line across it that still responded to touch. I could tap on things on the touchscreen and the top screen would respond, but there were no images on the touchscreen. This was exactly what I needed and I recommend it to anyone with similar problems.
So I was trying to fix my 3ds xl (2015) the other day and the problem was when I would flip my 3ds open it would make a pop sound and shut off. I went in following instructions on how to assemble it and all that. Afterward I didn't fix it so I just decided I'll save for a new one. In doing all this I created another problem. My bottom LCD displays but it will not respond to touch. Does this mean I need a new bottom LCD? I have a lot of games and data I don't want to lose just because my bottom screen won't respond. In order to keep it all I need to do a system transfer which I can only do in system settings which requires touch to navigate. Can anyone help?
It's the older 3ds xl model not the New Nintendo 3ds
Spencer -
The re-attachment of that first cable was a challenge, trying to wrestle the chassis, motherboard, and ribbon cable. I've written a short guide that makes it much easier, accessible here:
I broke the plastic touchscreen on the bottom screen. (Not the LCD) So basically the plastic part has a dent in it, and it’s always tapping in one place. Now I would’ve gotten it fixed by now, but the problem is I have the new 2015 3ds xl, so I’m not 100% sure if this guide will work. If someone could confirm for me, that would be very appreciated! :)
how do take the hinge off
This is not helpful I need one that is kid friendly usually I can fix anything as a 12yr old girl but this was confusing.
Thanks a lot. This was a really detailed guide which got my 3ds working in no time at all. Reassembling the ribbon cables is probably the hardest thing to do on this small project.
Thank you very much, my daughters 3DS XL is working again!
During the reassembly the white locker of the ribbon cable from step 18/pic. 2 jumped out. This was nearly the death of the Nintendo… To get it back on the two rows of the maybe 100 pins I needed 3 trys of around 15 min. each before stopping the repair for this day and beeing very frustrated. This thing was way too small for human Hands ;-)
The 4th try was successfull, but the locker lost the two guiding side-pieces. After closing it, I taped it down and it’s working!
So be carefull with this while reassembling :-)
Does the digitizer need replaced too?
Not always, I've found that if you don't damage the ribbon cable then you can reuse the digitizer.
Extremely confused, how does the mid-frame come into play here? Yes it houses the digitizer but how do you join that with the LCD screen? The actually replacement was poorly detailed here as well. This seems to be the only real guide for the bottom screen, an actual video needs to be made, one that notes the differences of the LCD and digitizer.
so i tried to fix my touch screen because it as off, ant when i put it back together, the touch screen turns on, but now it dosent even register that i tap it at all. is htere some thing i did wrong?
Thanks for putting this together. I had been a while since the last time I replaced a 3DS lower LCD and definitely needed a refresher. Appreciate the effort that went in to this. Many thanks!
the link for the bottom touchscreen lcd on this guide is different from the one that you need to install, when looking for screens for old/o3ds please make sure to get the screen with 1 wire on the top side, 2 on the bottom, and a golden plate, not silver. I've had to return several parts due to this error and me not noticing right away
When doing step 18, the white part of the wide ribbon attachment came off. Does it reconnect or will it need to be soldered and replaced?
Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again!
justjustintuber - Antwort
what type screwdriver do i use?!? its so small!!!!
Matthew - Antwort
I had success using a #00 Phillips head
Jake S -
Can't clip the front of the back cover back in
Macro Man - Antwort
I had trouble too, but got past it by slipping the bottom edge into the three indents first then easing the rest of the cover on!
Issu -
I found these were actually #00
Demosthien - Antwort
The screws in the 1st picture are stripped. What screwdriver head do I use?
Adric101 - Antwort