Einleitung
Hier wird der Austausch des oberen LCD gezeigt. Dazu musst du erst das obere, dann das untere Gehäuseteil öffnen, um an die Flachbandkabel zu kommen, über die das obere Display mit restlichen Gerät verbunden ist.
Was du brauchst
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Lockere die beiden 4,2 mm langen Kreuzschlitzschrauben #0, die sich oben auf der hinteren Abdeckung befinden.
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Halte das Gerät mit der Rückabdeckung nach oben.
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Fange in der Ecke rechts oben an die Rückabdeckung mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug abzuhebeln.
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Halte die Ecke offen, so dass sie nicht wieder einschnappt.
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Schaue dir die Stelle unter dem Fach für den Stylus genau an. Heble die Abdeckung ab, falls nötig.
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Hebe die Abdeckung ab und lege sie beiseite.
Note that on the lower side (opposite to the hinges), there are small hooking tabs. These require you to lift the top (screw side) off towards you, then the lower area.
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Setze das Plastiköffnungswekzeug in die Öffnung rechts vom Akku ein.
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Hebe den Akku aus dem unteren Gehäuseteil heraus.
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Entferne ihn und lege ihn beiseite.
My 👴 grandpa was helping me 🔧 repair my 3ds xl and ⚡️electrocuted himself with the 🔋battery while we was taking it out with a 🔪 knife. 💀 Rip grandpa 😔
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Links und rechts vom Einschub für die Cartridges befinden sich oben zwei Gummifüße. Entferne sie mit einer Pinzette.
I found that the rubber bumps don't move easily, you'll likely have to use a lot of upward force to move them.
I torn one of the bumpers because I used a needle instead.
You do have a pry a bit. I tore one a little but not that big of a deal.
try twisting upward
My 3DS XL is so old that the rubber bumpers were very hard to remove.
So I tried to heat the rubber bumpers a little bit with a hair dryer for 15-20 seconds, with some pauses every 5 seconds in order to avoid overheating or damaging something as a precaution.
It worked well to remove them but the only drawback is that as my rubber bumpers already got damaged and scratched because of my previous attempts without heating first, heating it up after aggravated the scratch damages when I used tweezers.
So I would recommend heating the rubber bumpers moderately first and be gentle when using something that could scratch or damage them.
(Do not take my words for it, it may not work for you)
I was able to remove mine that were being very difficult with some dull tweezers. I used dull ones because I didn't want to scratch anything. First I wedged it between the plastic and the bumper, wiggled it a tiny bit, pulled it out, wedged it again in another spot and continued this until I got it out with my fingernail. Neither the bumper nor my shell were damaged.
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Entferne sechs 6,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben # 00.
#000 ifixit philips screwdriver does not fit the 6.2mm screws. Whats the deal?
I have a 000 Phillips from tekton and it worked just fine.
Megan -
I stripped a good #000 screwdriver, and found that EVERY screw actually fit perfect and snug with a #00 screwdriver. Zero damage to the screws or the screwdriver with the #00.
I bought and used the #00 screwdriver, and it worked perfectly for this.
I had also bought the #000, but I never needed it during the entire operation.
All 6 screws are exactly the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up.
One of the screws in my 3ds XL seems to have its '+' engraving worn off, i can't seem to unscrew it, though the other 5 unscrewed properly. What should I do?
I stripped a screw in my 3ds xl and don’t know how to get it out. Do I have to use a drill or is there another way?
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Entferne die 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #00 über dem Einschub für die Cartridges.
between these two steps, the bottom two screws are not mentioned. make sure to take those out too ;)
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Sei sicher, dass die SD Karte entfernt ist. Fange an der Unterkante an das untere Gehäuseteil mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug abzulösen und gehe rings um das Gehäuse.
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Zwei Flachbandkabel verbinden das Gehäuse mit der Hauptplatine. Ziehe nicht zu fest am Gehäuse damit die Kabel nicht beschädigt werden.
Make sure that you have removed your SD card, otherwise that'll keep you from completing this step.
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Unter den rechten und linken Tasten befinden sich zwei Flachbandkabel. Löse die Verbinder mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug.
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Entferne das untere Gehäuseteil vom Gerät und lege es beiseite.
Thank you so much for pointing that out, it was keeping my system from starting up and I thought I blew it!
Yup, that is definitely an upside-down IR board, and will result in a silent post error. It was driving me crazy trying to figure out why the system wouldn't start up.
That's it!! Thanks so much!! I've tinkered around about one month and couldn't get this thing to work...all because I've followed the guide here and looked the picture up twice so I don't put the IR-Board in the wrong way...
Thank you guys so much! I followed everything faithfully and it was DOA on startup. (Black screens, blue light). The IR board was backwards. These pictures need to be fixed. As-is, it shows a broken 3DS.
You should always work on the device in a 3/4 open position- this allows the ribbon cables to have slack and will less likely tear, and is the only position the hinge pin can be removed or installed as it is keyed
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Lege das Gerät mit dem Einschub für die Cartridges nach oben.
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Finde das Schiebepad auf der rechten Seite.
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Entferne die beiden 7,5 mm Schrauben oben links und unten rechts.
Careful you don’t lose the little washer on the circle pad stem. It’s not held down by anything.
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Hebe das Schiebepad mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug heraus.
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Wende dabei nicht zu viel Kraft an. Ein Flachbandkabel verbindet noch das Schiebepad mit der Hauptplatine.
I found it easy to put my finger ontop of the board and apply a little pressure. When i popped off the board, my finger stopped it flying off.
I made a small mistake by popping the circle pad joystick and it went flying off and now im stuck trying to put it back in
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zum Schiebepad auf der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Löse das Flachbandkabel und das Schiebepad.
The 'flat head' holds it in place when down, and you can reattach your ribbon cable when it's up, it only needs to be partway in so when you close the flat head, if your joystick board can't move easily in place then you've done it right, it it's too loose, try again to work the ribbon cable under.
The ribbon goes into the left side of the "flat head" right? Not the end that clamps down on the right? I'm having a !&&* of a time sliding the end of the ribbon into the little space between the flat head when it's up and the side of the terminal.
For those of you like me, who got stuck after the last step.
To understand how to actually remove the circle pad, continue with these steps at 21.
Nintendo 3DS Schiebepad austauschen
Hope it helps those after me. I almost ripped some cabling inside thinking I had to take out the motherboard.. luckily I didn't.
Just as what monk333y said, follow the Original 3DS steps. They are identical and you don't have to remove anymore big parts. The only annoying part is taking out the circle pad.
I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.
Did the hot glue work? I did the exact same thing now im not sure what to do…
When testing the touchscreen, make sure you install the analog. Otherwise, the screen will act erratic. Thought I broke a brand new part. Just a heads up!
The entire top part of my circle pad had broken off, so I had no problem getting the old one out. I actually had more trouble getting the ribbon cable back into the clip, and the new circle pad attached to the stick, than any other part.
That said, this was way, way easier than I expected it to be.
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Lege das Gerät mit dem Einschub für die Cartridges nach oben.
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Finde die Infrarotplatine oben rechts auf der Hauptplatine.
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Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug unter die Infrarotplatine und hebe sie vorsichtig heraus.
One assumes they forgot to take the photo before removal and quickly put it back on upside down (accidentally) for the purposes of taking the photo.
Removing the IR board is actually a completely unnecessary step. It's absolutely fine to leave the IR board attached to the motherboard, it's then one less loose piece to go missing ;)
The reason they remove these "easily loosable" pieces is because there's an order to put the board back together or the 3DS won't turn on. This is for replacing the motherboard, which most of the time you will buy and it won't come with the microphone, volume or IR board. Use your head kiddo. If it's so easy to loose these pieces, you should keep better track of them. We might as well just not take out any screws as well because those are very easy to loose
You should add this note to the other uses of this picture; I accidentally knocked that chip off and reinstalled it upside down. I was referencing the photos for replacing the joystick.
You skipped removing the microphopne.
I agree my 3dxl the IR board is also part of the motherboard and doesnt come off.
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Hebe die WiFi Platine mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug hoch.
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Die WiFi Platine ist weiterhin mit einem Kabel verbunden. Es ist nicht notwendig dieses zu lösen, es genügt die Platine für diesen Schritt aus dem Weg zu legen.
Component on bottom left was taken off, but not mentioned. Not sure what it does it does, and I'm assuming it's unimportant, but I just wanted to note.
The thing on the bottom left in the little black rubber cover is the mic!
Why not just seperate the wifi board from the antenna now while in your hands? You're going to do it later anyway...
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Finde die Lautstärketaste rechts auf der Hauptplatine in der Nähe des Schiebepads.
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Entferne die Platine mit dem Lautstärkeregeler mit einer Pinzette vom Gehäuse. Sie ist immer noch mit der Hauptplatine durch ein Kabel verbunden.
As previously commented, in this step the microphone (lower left corner) was removed.
This is done by opening the grey flap, removing the ribbon from the motherboard and then either remove it or just let it sit in it’s place.
In my experience the motherboard will go around it easily.
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Kippe den Haltebügel am Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zur Lautstärkeregelung auf der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vorsichtig nach oben.
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Entferne die Platine der Lautstärkeregelung und lege sie beiseite.
This step proved to be unnecessary. It's perfectly fine to leave it attached, and again it's one less small fiddly piece to go missing.
What if I pushed flap too hard and detached and cant find. Now I unable to secure in. Is there a part for this?
Its is the small grey flap that holds in the ribbon.
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Entferne die Plastikstücke in den Ecken unten rechts und links mit dem Finger oder einer Pinzette.
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Du kannst sie auch entfernen indem du das Gerät herum drehst, dann fallen sie heraus. Verliere sie nicht.
Does anything happen if you lose them or not, that last part made me a little worried?
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Hebe die Sicherungen an den beiden kleinen Flachbandkabeln an der Hauptplatine hoch.
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Du findest sie oben rechts und unten rechts auf der Hauptplatine.
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Löse die beiden Kabel.
For the first picture on step 17, (the one at the top of the board) what does that cable connect to? My clip broke.
MMM as far as I can tell it looks like it's for the touch screen as it plugs into p13 and is the same plug type as p10, p12 and p17 and a couple others. Could be wrong though :)
Connor -
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Klappe die Sicherungsbügel an den etwas breiteren Flachbandkabeln mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Löse die Kabel.
Had some trouble with this: Not exactly sure why, but when after successfully replacing the screen and beginning to resemble, while reinserting the wide ribbon for the lower LCD (p8) it seems that the white locking clip unhinged itself from the connector, and bent some of the pins. The ribbon now won't fully insert.. Can't figure out if I've somehow completely ruined my 3ds. Mostly concerned about my save data that's not on my sdcard.
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Flachbandkabel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Löse das Flachbandkabel.
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Entferne zehn 3,0 mm Schrauben rings um die Hauptplatine.
I took a micrometer to these screws, they are not 5.5 mm long.
These screws are 3.0mm long.
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Hebe die Platine sorgfältig gerade soweit hoch, dass die beiden Plastikbefestigungen an den beiden oberen Ecken des Einschubs für die Cartridges frei werden.
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Kippe die Platine vorsichtig über die Oberkante.
Laying it down like this puts too much stress on the ribbon cable. I find it better to release the connector while the board is tilted at a 90 degree angle to the body of the 3DS. Less chance of damage to the top screen cable that way.
Add to this step, during reassembly: make sure the volume slider and wi-fi sliders are lined up correctly with their outer switches.
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Hebe vorsichtig die Sicherung am Verbinder des breiteren Flachbandkabels in der oberen rechten Seite der Hauptplatine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Löse das Flachbandkabel.
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Lege die Hauptplatine zur Seite.
So I tore this wire is this the visual or something?? Please help
How do you get this cable back in? It is way too short...
Tweezers, steady hand, and a little luck.
When fixing, I can't put the 2 wires in the connector. HELP!
Don't unplug this cable. Just leave the motherboard flat and don't move it while replacing the face button(s). This thing is way too hard to get back in.
It's hard to put it back but it's doable if you spend a lot of time, it took me around an hour and a half, also make sure you put it well because the first time, it was not fully inserted and the screen was flickering with gray lines so after I reinserted it worked fine.
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Öffne das Gerät mit dem oberen LCD nach oben.
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Entferne die vier Gummiabdeckungen in den Ecken mit einer Pinzette.
I find tweezers can cause damage to the rubber screw covers too frequently. Using a fine sewing needle and prying them up from the corner helps to avoid damage to them seeing as you have to replace them later. You can see the one in the bottom right corner here is damaged. Using an exacto knife or razor blade is also too risky.
I removed the rubber covers and the screws aren't there.
pry them up from corner at an angle to get underneath them. you will have a harder time trying to pull them up from the sides.
Noah It's possible you saw the shiny part underneath the rubber. They're supposed to come off with the rubber but I screwed up on the last one and didn't get that part out with the rubber. You might be seeing that. It's actually more difficult to get those out :/
I tore mine to shreds, but luckily there are tons of 3ds xl rubber screw cover replacements online super cheap. I couldn't get the shiny silver part up but my screwdriver head poked through it easy enough and I just brought it up with the screw itself. DEF don't use anything too sharp with this if you're afraid of damaging the face plate because the grip slips sooo easily here.
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Drehe die vier 4,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben # 00 unter den Gummiabdeckungen heraus.
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Drehe das Gerät um und Klappe es zu.
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Setze deine Finger oben am Gelenk an und presse nach unten um die Abdeckung weg vom Gelenk zu drücken. Es bewegt sich nur etwa 2mm weit.
I had the same problem as Tim T, but I think mine was because I took my 3DS into a shop for repairs years ago and they probably used adhesive when putting the top cover back on.
I had to get a pointed metal spudger-thing and slowly wiggle it into the black hinge area. Just sorta went back and forth to break up the adhesive but it worked
Ok quick edit: if you have to do what I did be careful of the area right by the top corners- I’m pretty sure there are hinges right under the cover at those spots so don’t use too much force there or you might break the plastic
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Entferne die Schraube die den Auslöser für den 3D Mechanismus festhält.
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Ziehe vorsichtig die Flachbandkabel ab die die Kamera und die Lautsprecher mit dem oberen LCD verbinden.
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Entferne die beiden kleineren Flachbandkabel in der oberen linken Ecke.
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Klappe die Sicherungsbügel hoch die die Kabel an der Halterung sichern.
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Ziehe die Kabel aus der Halterung.
The problem with reassembly is getting the LCD Flex cable back and through the hinge. It is very very likely to rip the cable due to the angle of the cable and the wind up "tube" you create to push the cable through the hinge.
Remember if you rip the LCD cable you'll need to get a completely new LCD.
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Klappe den Nintendo auf und hebe das LCD vorsichtig mit den Fingern ab.
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Entferne vorsichtig das Flachbandkabel aus dem Gelenk.
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Klebe die Scheibe mit dünnem Klebeband am LCD fest, vielleicht kannst du auch noch den alten Kleber benutzen.
I was very precise in my reassembly which overall did take much longer than 30mins. After recharging, I can power up no problem and both screens come on with backlight! But no operating system starts up. I have lights, power, charging, wifi... But no system startup!! My IR board is correct (upside down from the above pic, I used another video guide) but I do not know what else could cause this?? Any ideas of what could be loose/missed connection causing this??
Don't know if you fixed this but it could be caused by a bad wifi board. Have you tried replacing that?
Sweet buttery babies, removing the ribbon cables through the hinge is the most stressful thing I've done all week. You need to add more detailed pictures of this, the hardest step.
Please see my reply, hope it helps. James @ RGR
I found it easier to remove the hinge on the other side (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmoXDuU... for how) and then do the cables that way, wrapping them (and a touch of tape) around a small screwdriver to help feed through... But holy crap was that the hardest part of this.
Had it not been for that, this would have been a 20 minute repair, instead, first time, 3 hours.... wtf
rdewalt -
Why has nobody posted explaining how to seperate the middle sections? It's actually pretty simple to do. Open the remaining parts of the 3DS XL to the 2nd widest setting (not 180 degrees, just before that). Once done, in the right hinge there is a shiny black piece with a gap in it. Through this gap you can see the white of the hinge. Use a small flathead screwdriver to nudge the hinge towards the center of the 3DS XL. Be gentle, it will slide far enough so you can almost seperate the top half. If you do it right it will be just shy of clearing, so gently bend the right hinge just a millimetre or two and you will be able to pull the barrel hinge side clear. Don't go nuts, as you still have to carefully thread the ribbon cables out through the slit of doom, making sure not to get them caught on the wifi cable. Continued in reply...
Once free, gently pry the top screen out (it's stuck with an adhesive strip round the front of the screen) and flip it downwards. Pull the wifi cable through the ring and away from the ribbons, then roll your 3 ribbon cables up tight and gently pull those too though the ring. Don't forget to remove the black adhesive strip and plastic screen lens to put onto your new screen. Follow the directions in reverse to put your 2 halves together and follow the rest of this guide in reverse to get your 3DS XL working as good as new again. I hope this helps someone, if I get time one day I will take some photos to show how to do this. James @ RGR
I was wondering why I can't seem to get upper lcd cable to go in properly it's always setup upside down when I roll the three ribbon cables together? You have any input on that? Thanks
Thank u, very good to explain how to extract these ribbons. Need some photos to update this tutorial...
Your comment saved this project for me. This guide, as written, woefully underportrays the difficulty of not damaging any of the ribbon connectors for this step. You are MUCH better off separating the hinges (The Retro Gaming Repair, paired with YouTube videos, are a great resource) and working the ribbons through the metal hinge liner and the wide slot than trying to worm the new screen ribbon through the hinge liner and much smaller hole while still connected.
This is ridiculous. Tore the ribbon trying to get it through the hinge. New screen is toast.
What the crap. I can’t understand what you are saying how to put ribbon through hinges, and I am so confused!!!!!!!!!
what you should do is remove the hinge piece on the right side of the console. there are some comments talking about it.
It was easier for me to rethread the display ribbon cable when the hinge was closed completely.
"Don't forget to remove the black adhesive strip and plastic screen lens to put onto your new screen." - That was not easy...
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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Cal Poly, Team 9-13, Regan Spring 2014 Mitglied von Cal Poly, Team 9-13, Regan Spring 2014
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Any good ways to get the ribbon cable back through the hole?
did u find a solution?? i need help.
Carefully just have a pre-twist to it....good luck
Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again! :)
Try a Bobby hair pin.
The Replacement is not that Easy, but this Video helped me how to remove the Hinge and feed through the Ribbons again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmoXDuU...
How do you put the ribbons back properly?? i cant get them to go in!!
You should edit the images that show the IR board to at least identify that that piece is backwards in your photos and also to highlight the mic in the bottom left.
I struggled with getting the ribbon back through the hinge. I even ripped it on my first try and had to order another screen.
In the end, I used a straw, like the kind you'd drink a coke with, and cut a 1/4 inch section from it and wound the ribbon in that straw piece and pushed it through the hinge with no problem.
You will need something like a soldering holder or clamps to hold the 3DS XL itself while you do this, no way you can hold the screen, the ribbon/straw and the 3DS XL at the same time.
Just a note, I FINALLY managed to unhinge the 3DS found a youtube video with a comment that helped lead me in the right direction. It's a huge pain to get off but makes threading the ribbons easier and lowers chance of dmg.
To remove the hinge go to t he hinge that does NOT have the ribbons. Beside there is a piece of plastic that sits on top of the LED power light, look for a small opening, if you look carefully you should see white plastic. Make sure to close the 3ds carefully and push the piece of plastic towards towards the middle of the case (this can require a lot of force). The hinge should now detach be careful. Once the white plastic is far enough in, the plastic piece surrounding the LED plastic should come up quite easily.
Now you can thread the ribbon cables on the other hinge through quite easily.
Just a note, it does take a LOT of force to remove it, AND to replace it, and the piece that slides out easily that holds the hinge in place as well as the clear Streetpass LED piece. I had mine half together when I realized a little clear piece was sitting on my table, and had to take it apart to find where it came from, and found it after taking the hinge apart again ... the last thing to do.
Thanks for your comment! I think the hinge part is the most difficult part for tackling top screen replacement/ replacing speaker cable (in my case).
timyip3 -
For the record the barrel hinge (white part) slides out of the way much easier if you open the 3DS XL halves to the second 'click' before trying to nudge it. Not quite 180 degrees. Once done it slides out much more easily, just remember to put it back in the same way. James @ RGR
I did it! I did it!
- But a few notes: The ribbon cable is 1000x easier to put through the slot in the plastic on the case if you remove the hinge piece, as noted by Connor (Thank you!)
- I had ripped the ribbon on the cracked screen I had been trying to pull it out, and UNHINGING THE TWO HALVES of the 3ds makes the ribbon part MUCH EASIER.
- Also, I destroyed a #000 philips head on the fourth screw. A #00 fit perfectly, and there was no more damage to screws.
Result: My Zelda Edition 3DS XL is now repaired, but it took 3 hours, not 30 minutes, and destroyed a #000 screwdriver in the process. I recommend using a #00.
it does say use a 00
Just have patience and be careful as with any repair....sorry yall had so much trouble....
********Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015 New3DS XL) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again! :) ********
Hi
I am a attempting a hinge repair by replacing the full shell. I have an issue when I have come to step 23 and 24. After removing the rubber for the four screws, the screw heads are not shown, instead a metal plate is present. Any ideas ??
It's just a foil like material if you haven't figured that out by now. Cut a little deeper but not all the way around, you can use a small amount of adhesive to put the black screw covers back in place, otherwise you'll be staring at screw heads every time you open the 3ds xl.
jehusk -
i can't open the top screen
Be careful ! this guide is not finished ! there is a lake of informations about how to extract the LCD top screen and how to open the hinge.
My first LCD top screen replacement for a 3DS XL was very difficult. Hard if you are a beginner.
This was so IRRITATING Not enough description in step 29
Please see my comment in step 29. I hope it helps. James @ RGR
Hello all ok I got it together I hit power button light comes on lower screen flashes then powers off anybody know what I could have done wrong
One of your cables isnt fully connected
Sounds like top screen cable may have been damaged, or the ribbon cable for it isn't seated properly in the connector if you haven't fixed this already.
For anyone having problems removing or re-installing the ribbon cable, see this video for a technique that could hopefully ease the pain:
I put the new upper screen in an it won't power on blue light just flashes for a second
Don't know if you'll see my other reply but if your bottom screen flashes white for a second then there's a problem with the top LCD. Either the ribbon cable is damaged, or its not properly fitted into the connector (hanging out or wrong way round). If the cable is damaged (tears can be very difficult to spot) then you'll need a new top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR
Totally wrecked the plastic covers and the foil covers mentioned in step 23. Find an easier workaround than tweezers unless you want to be seeing screws every time you open your DS.
I use a fine sewing needle, dig it down the corner of one of them as far as you can before levering the screw cover up, that way you're less likely to destroy them :) James @ RGR
The cable that feeds through the hinge on my ads xl is ripped, what should i buy to replace it?
Depends which cable is ripped. If it's the black one that's the camera. The thinner orange one is speaker flex cable. The thicker orange is the top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR
My lcd ribbon cable when twisted and put through the hinge it's always upside down? Is there a method to get it the right side up?
what would cause the bottom LCD display to not work? the touch function does but i can't see anything
If the outer screen is not cracked and the sound still works do you need to buy those parts too?
Hello, somebody had problems with the top case reinstall?. Thanks.
The IR board is kinda obvious which way it should point. This was not an easy repair in my opinion. It had me cussing and swearing through out the entire repair. But I was surprised when it all worked properly! I was sure I had torn a ribbon cable, forgot something or put something in backwards. Not sure I would do one again.
I have the 2013 3DS XL Mario and Luigi Dream team edition, not sure what screen to order
Where did this guy find the screwdrivers? Cause i need those, one day i will do a teardown.
Ottima Guida.
Seguendo i passi si riesce a completare il lavoro perfettamente.(occhio a rimontare il modulo IR al contrario di come rappresentato in foto, altrimenti quando si accende la Ds non visualizza niente a schermo; c'è scritto anche sulla nota a fianco della foto.
Le difficoltà maggiori sono nel far passare il cavo flat del nuovo LCD che deve essere attorcigliato attorno al cavo verde antenna.
Buon lavoro e grazie Ifix.
Hey there. Just followed the guide and finished the replacement of the top screen. Current predicament is that the system is charging (orange LED comes on) but it will not turn on. I tried reseating the wifi board, resat most of the ribbon cables, and double checked everything again. I do not have the pop sound that some others have been having. When I push the power button, the screens stay black but the orange charging light does turn off for a moment before coming back on.
I know that this 3DS XL turned on before starting the upper LCD replacement.
Replacing the upper screen is definitely not easy but I did it! As already stated by others: Putting the ribbon cables back through the hinge is the worst part and I think it is absolutely necessary to disassemble the hinge and take the two halves of the 3DS XL apart, like in the already mentioned YouTube video.
So – for the most part – this is a good guide with good pictures. But the last steps, removing the ribbons from the hinge and putting them back, need additional instructions and possibly more photos. Pulling them out of the hinge without complete disassembly will most likely tear the ribbons.
I did this repair for the first time and it took me several hours. If you want to do this: Take your time and be extra careful. I recommend watching some videos AND using this guide. The retaining flaps are very fragile. If you break one, that’s probably equal to a “Game Over” for your console.
Yes, i have tried to get mine back together and i have put in the ribbon cables in backwards? The one that goes to the back side of the board (black stripe) and the smaller and larger one on the front of the motherboard. This will be the 3rd time i try it, i am triple checking everything, i am so close, i will not give up. Please everyone, check everything several times to save yourself a lot of grief. Take care and good luck on your repairs!
Anthony -
I did it. My son had cracked his upper LCD on his New 3DS XL. It took about 3.5hrs. As said before, you have to take the hinge apart. I followed the YouTube video but slowed it down to 1/4 speed. Also, use a #00 screwdriver as mentioned above by Vannicke Trabeitt
Check out my video of how to get the ribbon cable through the hinge, which is the hardest part of this repair:
My top screen repair is going to give me anxiety. OH GOD. I don’t like the ribbon cable positioning.
This guide does not show you HOW to put the ribbon table through the hole some use the hinge removal and the metal ring on the other side but sadly the guide stops before you can complete this project. I use a toothpick and tape the end of the ribbon cable and roll it up a little and feed it through the hinge hole. I NOW have to replace the whole shell on a black one because its all cracked and has come away from the console.
I lost the B button in the process lmao. everything went pretty well. no thanks to this guide. everything is super easy on your own up to the hinge and reattaching the top screen. which isn’t even mentioned in the guide. thanks, Connor. you saved my repair from disaster
I got it all back together and it does not power on. I have the IR board correct. I assume one of the cables is upside down. How can you tell the correct orientation of the cable when clamping them down?
small upper right cable in step 18 needs to have metal contacts facing upwards!!!! Most other cables have contacts facing the motherboard. This should be mentioned in the steps.
Thanks for putting this guide together. Needed a quick refresher so I didn’t end up breaking things even more than they already were.
The only thing that I think might be helpful is putting the info about how to unlock the hinge for removal. I feel like a lot of people might of missed the link that some very kind people posted in the comments section, judging by some of the comments here. It definitely drove me crazy trying to figure out how to break it down years ago… Maybe it easier to find now.
Thanks again.
will the 3ds xl boot up if i do not have the camera that goes in the front?
My friend accidentally microwaved his 3ds xl when he was younger. i am fixing right now. the two ribbon cables aboce the white joystick box are fried. any idea on where i can get the two new cables?
Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again!
justjustintuber - Antwort
what type screwdriver do i use?!? its so small!!!!
Matthew - Antwort
I had success using a #00 Phillips head
Jake S -
Can't clip the front of the back cover back in
Macro Man - Antwort
I had trouble too, but got past it by slipping the bottom edge into the three indents first then easing the rest of the cover on!
Issu -
I found these were actually #00
Demosthien - Antwort
The screws in the 1st picture are stripped. What screwdriver head do I use?
Adric101 - Antwort