Einleitung
Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du eine defekte Kopfhörerbuchse und Softwarekartenleser (auch Came Card Leser genannt) in der Nintendo Switch austauschen kannst.
In der Switch sind JIS-Schrauben verbaut, zur Not passen aber auch Bits für Kreuzschlitzschrauben. Sei aber sehr vorsichtig und beschädige die Schraubenköpfe nicht. Die Bits von iFixit können auch für JIS-Schrauben verwendet werden.
Hinweis: Wenn du das Abschirmblech ausgebaut hast, musst du die Wärmeleitpaste zwischen der Oberfläche und dem Kühlkörper ersetzen. Normale Wärmeleitpaste ist nicht geeignet, größere Spalten zu überbrücken, der beste Ersatz ist K5 Pro viskose Wärmeleitpaste.
Hinweis: Diese Anleitung und das von uns verkaufte Ersatzteil ist für das originale Nintendo Switch Modell von 2017 geeignet, aber auch für das neuere Modell von 2019 (Modellnummer HAC-001 und HAC-001(-01)).
Was du brauchst
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Drücke und halte den kleinen runden Knopf auf der Rückseite des Joy Con Controllers.
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Halte den Knopf weiterhin gedrückt und schiebe den Controller nach oben.
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Schiebe den Joy Con nach oben ganz aus dem Gerät heraus.
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Entferne die vier 6,3 mm langen Tri-Point Y00 Schrauben von der Rückabdeckung.
I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?
I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.
Pifase -
My top 2 screws are stripped, one into triangle, the other circle, rather than triangle spokes.
This happened when I replaced the micro-sd card slot, which turned out to have replaced the broken one with another one that turns out to be broken. I need to fix the fact that when I reapplied the back cover, the vent was misaligned.
I had huge problems removing the bottom two screws. I continued with the next steps and lifted the plastic shell as much as possible while using the screwdriver and it became an ease.
y0 works best. Press HARD at beginning then ease off to finish.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher oder ein Ph000 Bit von iFixit und entferne folgende Schrauben, mit denen die Rückabdeckung befestigt ist:
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Eine einzelne 2,5 mm Schraube an der Oberkante des Gerätes.
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Zwei 2,5 mm lange Schrauben an der Unterkante des Gerätes
Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?
Thanks
The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.
I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…
We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked
Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…
If the screw is turning but not coming out, the plastic tab that it screws into is probably damaged or broken. You’ll need to try to pry the screw out with tweezers as you unscrew it. It is not the end of the world if you can’t screw these back in during reassembly.
this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it
PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.
One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension
Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.
These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.
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In der Mitte auf jeder Seite des Gerätes befindet sich eine 3,8 mm JIS 000 Schraube. Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und drehe sie beide heraus.
I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?
Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!
Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.
What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000
My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!
I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.
after getting all the other screws off I just hinged the back part away and it snapped off neatly where the rusted screw is. not the best solution but it worked.
Steve T -
One of my screws was SUPER attached too, but after following a bit noticed the one other in the left that got out nicely, had the plastic tab broken already! So I went ahead and broke the other tab too. So the two side screws are now holding nothing. But I think it will work thanks to the other 4 or 5 screws. Too bad!
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Klappe den Aufsteller auf der Rückseite des Gerätes mit den Fingern heraus.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die 1,6 mm JIS 000 Schraube in der Vertiefung für den Aufsteller.
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Klappe den Aufsteller zu.
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Öffne die Cartridge-Klappe.
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Hebe die Rückabdeckung von der Unterseite des Gerätes her hoch und entferne sie.
How to remove micro SD port?
Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.
This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:
Step 9) Nintendo Switch rechte Joy-Con Sensorschiene austauschen
Step 10) Nintendo Switch rechte Joy-Con Sensorschiene austauschen
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die einzelne 3,1 mm JIS000-Schraube, mit der der microSD-Kartenleser befestigt ist.
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Hebe den microSD-Kartenleser mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette nach oben vom Gerät weg, löse ihn ab und entferne ihn.
Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.
if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.
Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!
Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.
I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks
Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!
The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.
The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.
I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!
My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!
Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.
I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!
Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience
I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!
Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit
Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow
Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!
This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.
For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…
I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.
When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw
Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)
Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.
It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.
Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.
I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.
Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.
Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?
It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.
Managed to push the connector back in with foam on, used back of plastic tool to push secure and once completed was able to use the SD port again. Brilliant little guide.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die sechs 3 mm JIS 000 Schrauben, mit denen das Abschirmblech am Gerät befestigt ist.
Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.
Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…
nin10doh -
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Ziehe das Stück Schaumstoff an der Oberkante des Gerätes nahe bei der Lüfteröffnung mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette zurück.
My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?
It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.
My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.
Also did not see this in my launch switch.
Me three, no foam.
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Setze einen Spudger am Rand des Gerätes unter das Abschirmblech ein.
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Heble nach oben, hebe das Abschirmblech hoch und entferne es.
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Wenn du vorsichtig bist, kannst du die rosa Wärmeleitpaste weiterverwenden. Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass sie nicht schmutzig wird und einen guten Kontakt zwischen dem Kühlkörper und der Abschirmung herstellt.
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Wenn die Wärmeleitpaste ausgetauscht werden muss, dann entferne sie zuerst ganz mit Hilfe unserer Anleitung für Wärmeleitpaste und ersetze sie durch eine geeignete Paste, wie z.B. K5 Pro.
How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?
Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..
MacTek -
When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?
I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound
No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.
MacTek -
Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.
Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.
does ifixit not have an appropriate thermal paste for this step?
there is only arctic silver 5 in the kit and i would guess that that should not be used in this case.
if true, the kit is incomplete -
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Heble den Akkustecker mit der Spudgerspitze gerade nach oben und löse ihn aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine heraus.
be careful not to pry it off the board entirely
This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?
it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop
You can use a spudger to hold down the black plastic side of this connector that is supposed to stay attached to the motherboard while using the pointy spudger as shown in order to reduce any chance of pulling the socket off the motherboard.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die drei 3 mm JIS 000 Schrauben, mit denen der Kühlkörper an der Hauptplatine befestigt ist.
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Über den Lüfter und den Kühlkörper sind zwei Schaumstoffstücke verklebt. Ziehe sie vom Lüfter weg.
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Setze den Spudger mit der Spitze unter den Teil des Schaumstoffs, der nirgendwo festgeklebt ist.
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Drücke den Schaumstoff oben mit dem Finger fest.
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Rolle die Spudgerspitze ganz unter dem Schaumstoff bis zum anderen Ende entlang, bis er abgelöst ist.
Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?
I had the same problem and I found a foam manufacturer: https://www.foam-material.com/sample-cus...
I'm pretty sure the type is "Granular Activated Carbon Foam" and the thickness is 0.5 mm but I have no idea what the porosity is.
Yeah ripped the foam. Neither the screwdriver nor spudger technique worked. Day one switch, so 6 years old at this point.
Does the foam need replacing if torn? What does it actually do.
I wanted to know as well, what does it do? Can I replace it with thermal pads?
Can I replace the foam with a 0.5mm thermal pad? Will it be a better solution?
The adhesive remover really helped here being a day one switch
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Hebe den Kühlkörper mit dem Spudger oder den Fingern nach oben von der Hauptplatine hoch und entferne ihn.
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Möglicherweise spürst du ein wenig Widerstand. Das ist normal, weil der Kühlkörper wegen der Wärmeleitpaste an der CPU festhängt.
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Trage an allen Stellen, die vorher mit Wärmeleitpaste bestrichen waren, wieder neue Paste auf, und zwar auch zwischen dem Kühlrohr und der Aluminiumabschirmung, die Switch benutzt diese nämlich auch zur Wärmeableitung.
What's on the heatsink?
where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?
They may sell it in the ifixit store.
(1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?
(2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!
UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:
1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.
2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.
Good luck!
Travis -
you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put
just clean it afterwards
K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.
Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.
Cerus98 -
i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine
The steps doesnt specify but do you have to remove the heat shield from the cpu as well?
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Klappe den kleinen, scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Touchscreenkabels mit einem Fingernagel oder einem Öffnungswerkzeug hoch.
This step broke my switch i can't use my card reader anymore! i tried numerous time the reverse it seems my headphone jack works but my touchscreen and gamecard reader is broken. Even worse one of the screws to attach this plate was mangled so i cant even replace it anymore because the screw wont come out anymore. I reallly hate that i followed this guide others suggested to just keep the gamecard touchscreen ribbon attached and just fold it like a book. I wished i did that. I not gonna bother to even buy an gamecard replacement anymore. Its time to buy an switch oled and be done with this!
The advice to "fold it like a book" will not work, as the cable will need to come out of the switch in order to replace the screen. It can not be kept in the slot.
To anyone reading this step: This is not an isolated incident. The loss of functionality of the game reader board, which includes the use of reading cartridges, the touchscreen, and the headphone jack, is an possibility that can happen if you disconnect the board. Unless you are replacing the board itself, do not do this step. As of 1/15/2023, there is no know reason why this happens or no known solution other than buying a new game reader board.
Update: If your Switch has lost the ability to read games and or the headphone jack in addition to touchscreen functionality, please consider reading this thread and its solution: Nintendo Switch Cartridge Reader Not Working After Fan Replacement
it is really hard to see what you need to flip up. look at it from different angles. it's the thinnest little strip of black plastic.
Please help I replace the game card read and head phone. Now my switch wont even turn on.
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Schiebe das Flachbandkabel zum Touchscreen mit einer Pinzette horizontal aus seinem Anschluss auf der Platine des Softwarekartenlesers heraus.
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Wenn der Touchscreen nach der Reparatur nicht funktioniert, wohl aber der Game Card Leser, dann überprüfe, ob dieses Kabel richtig angeschlossen ist. Wenn der Game Card Leser auch nicht funktioniert, dann überprüfe stattdessen im nächsten Schritt seinen Stecker.
The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.
This seems to be purely for the touchscreen to work, if you remove the headphone/card reader the switch will still function fine, however without somewhere for this cable to reattach your touchscreen will be disabled
the reverse of this is tricky. i'd suggest a better tool kit with this that includes real tweezers so i don't have to use my wife's
Did you get it to work finally?!
Hi Chris! From the thread, it looks like it's not this connector that's the problem, but the press connector in the step below. If your card reader won't read cards, check to make sure this connector is fully aligned and seated.
This connection was a problem for me. I tried the connection many times before it worked. What finally worked was lining up the gold rectangle on the back of the smaller part to overlap/cover the port very carefully. This required me to compress the ribbon a bit. Not much force required to finish the connection.
I found it much easier to reinsert the ribbon while the reader board was fully disconnected. This way I was able to simply hold the reader board with my fingers and slide it over the end of the ribbon while the ribbon was just sticking up in the air. The ribbon is quite stiff and slipped in VERY easily in such a way that I felt confident that it was fully seated. Then while holding it in one hand, I flipped the locking flap down with a spudger in the other. You might also be able to seat the board and the ribbon will likely stay inserted under its own tension, then flip the locking flap down.
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Heble mit der Spudgerspitze den Stecker am Kabel der Kopfhörerbuchse und des Softwarekartenlesers gerade nach oben und löse ihn von der Hauptplatine ab.
Note that if the card reader mentions it won't read cards, this cable has not been reconnected correctly. Watch the connectors are not bent when reattaching
You need to push the connector upwards. Look at the image and you will see a very slight bend. This bent allows the connector to align with its dock. Very very careful when pressing down IT HAS TO BE ALIGNED.
This step had me most stressed during re-assembly. I saw in a video elsewhere where the person reattached the press connector BEFORE screwing it back in which gave them more room to work with. They also pointed out that there's an outline on the top that should line up with where it reconnects. This helped me re-connect with more confidence.
I also reconnected this connector before screwing the reader down. You will not have to contend with the pressure from bending the stiff wide cable leading from the connector.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die drei 3,1 mm JIS 000 Schrauben, mit denen die Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse und des Softwarekartenlesers am Gerät befestigt ist.
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Entferne die Halterung der Kopfhörerbuchse mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette .
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Entferne die Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse und des Softwarekartenlesers mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette.
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Vergleiche das Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Wenn der neue Game Card Leser nach dem Bootvorgang nicht gleich funktioniert, dann schalte die Switch wieder aus, löse den Akkustecker ab und verbinde ihn wieder.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen oder frage in unserem Nintendo Switch Forum nach Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Vergleiche das Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Wenn der neue Game Card Leser nach dem Bootvorgang nicht gleich funktioniert, dann schalte die Switch wieder aus, löse den Akkustecker ab und verbinde ihn wieder.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen oder frage in unserem Nintendo Switch Forum nach Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
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52 Kommentare
It worked, thanks
After changing the board out, I don’t have touch on the screen, put the original PCB back in the console and i have touch again, so its not that I did any damage to the flexes or ZIF connector. Any one have any ideas?
Hey man, did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same issue. My touchscreen is no longer working.
Seems there are different kinds of card slots, European, American and Japanese, Installing for example an Eurean version into an American version wil result in a not working touchscreen , i think it`s a software issue as the cardslot had same parts, if anyone finds a workaround please let us know
Nintendo does not like aftermarket replacement part. Get original second hand and will be ok
mfijak -
Having similar issues.
Tried several official donner slots from other same region Switches. Does anyone have better concrete information about this issue.
I’m now wondering if it is better changing both Digitizers and slots at the same time?
Would be helpful if techs at ifixit could look into this and not leave us all hanging.
Many thanks.
Pyro -
If this only works without disabling touchscreen on US versions, then it is what it is I guess. I prefer to have gameslot working over touchscreen, but would've been good for iFixIt to make this clear on the product page.
Justin -
error code 2162-0002
an error has occurred.
please press the power button to restart the console. If you are unable to restart hold the power for 12 seconds to turn the console off.
It wont restart or power off. Any advice?
took it apart again and found i didn’t have step 19 seated all the way. It fired up fine now, but the game card cannot be read, which was the whole point of the replacement.
ifixit sent me a replacement card reader that worked this time, EXCEPT now no touch screen. SMH.
Im getting the same issue i was before i changed the reader… (the game card could not be read. please remove and reinsert it.) headphone jack and screen are working fine.
Two things-
-it's one thing if the touch screen doesn't work, but if it's going crazy leave the ribbon in step 13 unplugged. That is the touch screen ribbon and unplugged will deactivate it completely.
- be careful not to strip a screw. It happened to me and it sucked to fix.
My son's switch volume consistently goes up to max, need to replace the circuit board (power, volume up, volume down) and replace the speakers.
My son's Switch has the issue where music and sound only plays out of the right headphone speaker. Tried it with several pair to verify this. I'm guessing this repair guide is the only option to fix it.
Did all The repairs at first I was getting an error code went back and re-did it it started right up but I’m still not able to play the games with the cards
I’m having the same touchscreen doesn’t work after replacing the game card reader problem others mention. Any fix for this yet?
Will card slots from old revisions work with new revisions? I disassembled my HAC-001-(01) and its card slot looks different. But it is ejects cartridges immediately and i need to replace it.
Part replaced now touch screen won’t work & it still won’t play game cards, I feel as though the new part is defective…..
This was an awesome guide. For someone who is not really good with his hands (and really nervous to cut off the kids from their oh so important video games) this was a life saver. Thanks to all who contributed and giving me a way to repair it without having to wait forever or pay someone twice as much to do so. Took about 45 min following step-by-step with shaky hands :) I held my breath while turning it back on and all I have to say is “MARIO KART IS ALIVE (again…)!”
Hey, I have a weird problem with my big Switch, not actually sure if it’s the game slot or something on the motherboard. The game slot doesn’t work, comes up with the standard “Game can’t be read, re-insert…” message. I’ve tried it with Pokemon Let’s Go, Harry Potter, Mario Kart, Mario Odyssey and Gianna Sisters. All these work on my Switch Lite, the Pokemon game was new. The weird thing is: Gianna Sisters gets recognized immediately on the big Switch, loads up fine and I can play it. The other four games give me the error message. I’ve swapped the game slot over from another broken Switch, with no luck, but I am not sure if that game slot is working either. Before I buy another game slot off ebay, do you guys think that it’s the game slot or anything on the mainboard?
So, to make things weird, it’s definitely not the game card reader. I’ve got a Switch with a broken screen that works in the dock and plays all games fine and took the game card reader out of that one and installed the game card reader from the console that doesn’t want to play games except for Gianna Sisters into the broken screen one. Broken screen one still plays games fine (fixed the screen by now) and the other one still only reads Gianna Sisters.
The guide was very well put together, I was able to swap out the part, no problems at all. Great job. For those seeking the same resolution I was for my problem: Swapping out the part did not fix my issue. I still receive the same “CardReadError” when inserting any one of my 33 switch games (though, for whatever reason, Monster Hunter works just fine, it’s the only game I own that the switch will read")
I will continue troubleshooting… hopefully get it figured out. If I do, I’ll come back and comment more. If I don’t, this will sadly be the end of the road for Nintendo with me.
Took me a couple passes to get the ribbon in and get the little clasp to lock back down, but I knocked it out and it’s up and running like new. I ran into the touchscreen going down and instantly started to panic - make sure the ribbon is all the way in and the clasp locks down and you should be good.
So I replaced my game card reader, followed step by step. My Nintendo Switch still doesn’t read games… I don’t know what could be the issue. Does anyone know what else, other then the game card reader that could prevent my Switch from reading games.??? HELP
Same situation, replaced the card reader and still doesn`t work.
Now the failure message dosn`t appear, like before, i insert the game card.
I try the factory reset, but the switch stuck at 0%
Very frustrating.
Any suggestions?
Any idea why the microphone isn’t working anymore after replacing the game card reader? Audio itself is working fine and also game card are read correctly.
Did you find a fix? The same thing happened to me.
I have the same issue.
Works on first try. Thx a lot!
Part and guide worked well, Switch back up and running perfect. I recommend buying some thermal paste with the kit if you plan to do this repair as the original stuff on the processor was a bit dried out when i took mine apart. make sure to fully seat the connectors when putting it back together as well. Thanks for the quality part and guide as always!
I also had the problem with the touch screen not working after replacing and reassembling. It was that the connector in step 20 that was not properly connected. I also had some problem with the MicroSD card and that was also that the connector was not properly connected. Try to start the Switch without reassembling the whole thing to save some time. If it is not working, turn of and try reconnecting the connectors until it works. Then reassemble. That at least worked for me. The connectors are quite tricky to reassemble and it sometimes feels as if they are ok but they are not. Good luck!
Just did the repair this morning and the switch is working like new. Thanks!
Just finished the repair and tested a game on it, and its working like a charm, my only issue is the bottom screws on the switch. When i removed them for the repair, the 2.5 Jis 000 screwdriver didnt work but i used the 4.0 one and it got out.For the reassembly part of the switch, one screw went in secure but the other one didnt, and i tried using the 3.0 and 4.0 and the 2.5 with no avail.
Great guide; very clear, easy to follow, and detailed images. Bought the part (kit + thermal paste) and followed this guide and it worked perfectly. Thanks!!!
This is a good breakdown on how to swap out the card reader. However, I completed this repair as my son’s Switch wasn’t reading the game cartridges and the issue still persists just like it did before the repair. Does anyone have any ideas? Could it be another issue related to a different part that is faulty?
I desoldered a damaged headphone jack and soldered a new one on. Worked perfectly.
I replaced it and the switch work but the games still couldn't be read. also the touchscreen didn't work. I replaced the new part with the one the switch had originally hoping the touchscreen would be fixed , but the touchscreen is still broken and the games still can't be read. Any ideas?
Hello, after getting "the game card could not be read." error I assumed the game card reader was at fault because no games I had worked on the switch and they all worked on another switch.
After replacing the game card reader I am still getting the same error! Does anyone have any advice on this? I purchased the replacement part right from @ifixit
non vedo dove comprare i pezzi e gli attrezzi
Ciao Edmondo, troverai sopra, sotto il titolo, dei link verso il store europeo o americano dove comprare i pezzi e attrezzi necessari per questa riparazione. Altrimenti puoi ricercare direttamente nello store di tua scelta.
Are the card reader parts different between new and old switches or interchangeable?
Did someone find out how to repair a cartridge if there's no problem with any contacts ?
Maybe the chip can be faulty?
Sometimes i can't understand why the cartridge stops working (no water damage, no bent contacts).
Any idea?
So if I am replacing the card reader/headphone jack, which thermal paste should I get? Do I get the Thermal Paste from iFixit or the K5‑PRO Viscous Thermal Paste on Amazon? This is my first repair of any system that needs thermal paste.
Replaced with new card/aux jack and now switch won’t even recognize there is a game in new card reader??
you guys are wrong if the touch screen isnt working it means the black ribbon cable that connects the card reader to the motherboard isnt correctly connected to the card reader
Help I changed out my son's game card reader and headphone jack on his switch. pretty easy to do but now the switch wont turn on at all I made sure all wires are are connected from what I could see and even tried charging it. I have tried the holding the power button for 20 seconds. I get nothing it doesnt even show its charging.
Excellent methodical guide, worked a treat. Happy 10 year old!
Excellent methodical guide, worked a treat. Happy 10 year old!
Worked 100%. Thank you! Cost $26 vs new switch. Also didn’t realize that the head phones were glitching prior to replacing this part. Instructions were very clear and helpful. Especially for a mom who isn’t technical…kids are especially grateful !
Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.
Ina Barz - Antwort
backup all your sd card data i had to format mine after this tutorial and lost all my game data
JustForThisComment?ComeOn - Antwort