Einleitung
Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie ein defektes Display in der Nintendo Switch ausgetauscht werden kann. Bei dieser Reparatur wird das Display als Einheit von LCD und Touchscreen ausgetauscht. Wenn nur der Touchscreen ausgewechselt werden muss, dann benutze diese Anleitung, um nur das LCD zu tauschen diese hier.
In der Switch sind JIS-Schrauben verbaut, zur Not passen aber auch Bits für Kreuzschlitzschrauben. Sei aber sehr vorsichtig und beschädige die Schraubenköpfe nicht. Die Bits von iFixit können auch für JIS-Schrauben verwendet werden.
Hinweis: Wenn du das Abschirmblech ausgebaut hast, musst du die Wärmeleitpaste zwischen der Oberfläche und dem Kühlkörper ersetzen. Normale Wärmeleitpaste ist nicht geeignet, größere Spalten zu überbrücken, der beste Ersatz ist K5 Pro viskose Wärmeleitpaste. Für die CPU musst du aber normale Wärmeleitpaste verwenden.
Du könntest die Reparatur auch durchführen, ohne den Kühlkörper und den Softwarekartenleser auszubauen, aber das Ablösen und spätere Wiederanschließen des Flachbandkabes zum Display ist dann wesentlich schwieriger. Überlege dir das, bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst.
Hinweis: Diese Anleitung und das von uns verkaufte Ersatzteil ist für das originale Nintendo Switch Modell von 2017 geeignet, aber auch für das neuere Modell von 2019 (Modellnummer HAC-001 und HAC-001(-01)).
Was du brauchst
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Drücke und halte den kleinen runden Knopf auf der Rückseite des Joy Con Controllers.
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Halte den Knopf weiterhin gedrückt und schiebe den Controller nach oben.
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Schiebe den Joy Con nach oben ganz aus dem Gerät heraus.
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Entferne die vier 6,3 mm langen Tri-Point Y00 Schrauben von der Rückabdeckung.
I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?
I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.
Pifase -
My top 2 screws are stripped, one into triangle, the other circle, rather than triangle spokes.
This happened when I replaced the micro-sd card slot, which turned out to have replaced the broken one with another one that turns out to be broken. I need to fix the fact that when I reapplied the back cover, the vent was misaligned.
I had huge problems removing the bottom two screws. I continued with the next steps and lifted the plastic shell as much as possible while using the screwdriver and it became an ease.
y0 works best. Press HARD at beginning then ease off to finish.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher oder ein Ph000 Bit von iFixit und entferne folgende Schrauben, mit denen die Rückabdeckung befestigt ist:
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Eine einzelne 2,5 mm Schraube an der Oberkante des Gerätes.
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Zwei 2,5 mm lange Schrauben an der Unterkante des Gerätes
Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?
Thanks
The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.
I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…
We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked
Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…
If the screw is turning but not coming out, the plastic tab that it screws into is probably damaged or broken. You’ll need to try to pry the screw out with tweezers as you unscrew it. It is not the end of the world if you can’t screw these back in during reassembly.
this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it
PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.
One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension
Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.
These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.
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In der Mitte auf jeder Seite des Gerätes befindet sich eine 3,8 mm JIS 000 Schraube. Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und drehe sie beide heraus.
I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?
Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!
Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.
What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000
My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!
I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.
after getting all the other screws off I just hinged the back part away and it snapped off neatly where the rusted screw is. not the best solution but it worked.
Steve T -
One of my screws was SUPER attached too, but after following a bit noticed the one other in the left that got out nicely, had the plastic tab broken already! So I went ahead and broke the other tab too. So the two side screws are now holding nothing. But I think it will work thanks to the other 4 or 5 screws. Too bad!
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Klappe den Aufsteller auf der Rückseite des Gerätes mit den Fingern heraus.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die 1,6 mm JIS 000 Schraube in der Vertiefung für den Aufsteller.
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Klappe den Aufsteller zu.
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Öffne die Cartridge-Klappe.
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Hebe die Rückabdeckung von der Unterseite des Gerätes her hoch und entferne sie.
How to remove micro SD port?
Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.
This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:
Step 9) Nintendo Switch rechte Joy-Con Sensorschiene austauschen
Step 10) Nintendo Switch rechte Joy-Con Sensorschiene austauschen
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die einzelne 3,1 mm JIS000-Schraube, mit der der microSD-Kartenleser befestigt ist.
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Hebe den microSD-Kartenleser mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette nach oben vom Gerät weg, löse ihn ab und entferne ihn.
Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.
if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.
Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!
Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.
I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks
Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!
The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.
The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.
I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!
My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!
Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.
I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!
Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience
I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!
Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit
Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow
Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!
This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.
For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…
I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.
When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw
Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)
Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.
It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.
Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.
I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.
Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.
Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?
It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.
Managed to push the connector back in with foam on, used back of plastic tool to push secure and once completed was able to use the SD port again. Brilliant little guide.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die sechs 3 mm JIS 000 Schrauben, mit denen das Abschirmblech am Gerät befestigt ist.
Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.
Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…
nin10doh -
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Ziehe das Stück Schaumstoff an der Oberkante des Gerätes nahe bei der Lüfteröffnung mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette zurück.
My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?
It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.
My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.
Also did not see this in my launch switch.
Me three, no foam.
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Setze einen Spudger am Rand des Gerätes unter das Abschirmblech ein.
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Heble nach oben, hebe das Abschirmblech hoch und entferne es.
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Wenn du vorsichtig bist, kannst du die rosa Wärmeleitpaste weiterverwenden. Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass sie nicht schmutzig wird und einen guten Kontakt zwischen dem Kühlkörper und der Abschirmung herstellt.
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Wenn die Wärmeleitpaste ausgetauscht werden muss, dann entferne sie zuerst ganz mit Hilfe unserer Anleitung für Wärmeleitpaste und ersetze sie durch eine geeignete Paste, wie z.B. K5 Pro.
How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?
Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..
MacTek -
When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?
I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound
No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.
MacTek -
Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.
Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.
does ifixit not have an appropriate thermal paste for this step?
there is only arctic silver 5 in the kit and i would guess that that should not be used in this case.
if true, the kit is incomplete -
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Heble den Akkustecker mit der Spudgerspitze gerade nach oben und löse ihn aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine heraus.
be careful not to pry it off the board entirely
This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?
it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop
You can use a spudger to hold down the black plastic side of this connector that is supposed to stay attached to the motherboard while using the pointy spudger as shown in order to reduce any chance of pulling the socket off the motherboard.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die drei 3 mm JIS 000 Schrauben, mit denen der Kühlkörper an der Hauptplatine befestigt ist.
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Über den Lüfter und den Kühlkörper sind zwei Schaumstoffstücke verklebt. Ziehe sie vom Lüfter weg.
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Setze den Spudger mit der Spitze unter den Teil des Schaumstoffs, der nirgendwo festgeklebt ist.
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Drücke den Schaumstoff oben mit dem Finger fest.
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Rolle die Spudgerspitze ganz unter dem Schaumstoff bis zum anderen Ende entlang, bis er abgelöst ist.
Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?
I had the same problem and I found a foam manufacturer: https://www.foam-material.com/sample-cus...
I'm pretty sure the type is "Granular Activated Carbon Foam" and the thickness is 0.5 mm but I have no idea what the porosity is.
Yeah ripped the foam. Neither the screwdriver nor spudger technique worked. Day one switch, so 6 years old at this point.
Does the foam need replacing if torn? What does it actually do.
I wanted to know as well, what does it do? Can I replace it with thermal pads?
Can I replace the foam with a 0.5mm thermal pad? Will it be a better solution?
The adhesive remover really helped here being a day one switch
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Hebe den Kühlkörper mit dem Spudger oder den Fingern nach oben von der Hauptplatine hoch und entferne ihn.
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Möglicherweise spürst du ein wenig Widerstand. Das ist normal, weil der Kühlkörper wegen der Wärmeleitpaste an der CPU festhängt.
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Trage an allen Stellen, die vorher mit Wärmeleitpaste bestrichen waren, wieder neue Paste auf, und zwar auch zwischen dem Kühlrohr und der Aluminiumabschirmung, die Switch benutzt diese nämlich auch zur Wärmeableitung.
What's on the heatsink?
where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?
They may sell it in the ifixit store.
(1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?
(2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!
UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:
1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.
2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.
Good luck!
Travis -
you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put
just clean it afterwards
K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.
Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.
Cerus98 -
i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine
The steps doesnt specify but do you have to remove the heat shield from the cpu as well?
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Klappe den kleinen, scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Touchscreenkabels mit einem Fingernagel oder einem Öffnungswerkzeug hoch.
This step broke my switch i can't use my card reader anymore! i tried numerous time the reverse it seems my headphone jack works but my touchscreen and gamecard reader is broken. Even worse one of the screws to attach this plate was mangled so i cant even replace it anymore because the screw wont come out anymore. I reallly hate that i followed this guide others suggested to just keep the gamecard touchscreen ribbon attached and just fold it like a book. I wished i did that. I not gonna bother to even buy an gamecard replacement anymore. Its time to buy an switch oled and be done with this!
The advice to "fold it like a book" will not work, as the cable will need to come out of the switch in order to replace the screen. It can not be kept in the slot.
To anyone reading this step: This is not an isolated incident. The loss of functionality of the game reader board, which includes the use of reading cartridges, the touchscreen, and the headphone jack, is an possibility that can happen if you disconnect the board. Unless you are replacing the board itself, do not do this step. As of 1/15/2023, there is no know reason why this happens or no known solution other than buying a new game reader board.
Update: If your Switch has lost the ability to read games and or the headphone jack in addition to touchscreen functionality, please consider reading this thread and its solution: Nintendo Switch Cartridge Reader Not Working After Fan Replacement
it is really hard to see what you need to flip up. look at it from different angles. it's the thinnest little strip of black plastic.
Please help I replace the game card read and head phone. Now my switch wont even turn on.
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Schiebe das Flachbandkabel zum Touchscreen mit einer Pinzette horizontal aus seinem Anschluss auf der Platine des Softwarekartenlesers heraus.
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Wenn der Touchscreen nach der Reparatur nicht funktioniert, wohl aber der Game Card Leser, dann überprüfe, ob dieses Kabel richtig angeschlossen ist. Wenn der Game Card Leser auch nicht funktioniert, dann überprüfe stattdessen im nächsten Schritt seinen Stecker.
The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.
This seems to be purely for the touchscreen to work, if you remove the headphone/card reader the switch will still function fine, however without somewhere for this cable to reattach your touchscreen will be disabled
the reverse of this is tricky. i'd suggest a better tool kit with this that includes real tweezers so i don't have to use my wife's
Did you get it to work finally?!
Hi Chris! From the thread, it looks like it's not this connector that's the problem, but the press connector in the step below. If your card reader won't read cards, check to make sure this connector is fully aligned and seated.
This connection was a problem for me. I tried the connection many times before it worked. What finally worked was lining up the gold rectangle on the back of the smaller part to overlap/cover the port very carefully. This required me to compress the ribbon a bit. Not much force required to finish the connection.
I found it much easier to reinsert the ribbon while the reader board was fully disconnected. This way I was able to simply hold the reader board with my fingers and slide it over the end of the ribbon while the ribbon was just sticking up in the air. The ribbon is quite stiff and slipped in VERY easily in such a way that I felt confident that it was fully seated. Then while holding it in one hand, I flipped the locking flap down with a spudger in the other. You might also be able to seat the board and the ribbon will likely stay inserted under its own tension, then flip the locking flap down.
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Heble mit der Spudgerspitze den Stecker am Kabel der Kopfhörerbuchse und des Softwarekartenlesers gerade nach oben und löse ihn von der Hauptplatine ab.
Note that if the card reader mentions it won't read cards, this cable has not been reconnected correctly. Watch the connectors are not bent when reattaching
You need to push the connector upwards. Look at the image and you will see a very slight bend. This bent allows the connector to align with its dock. Very very careful when pressing down IT HAS TO BE ALIGNED.
This step had me most stressed during re-assembly. I saw in a video elsewhere where the person reattached the press connector BEFORE screwing it back in which gave them more room to work with. They also pointed out that there's an outline on the top that should line up with where it reconnects. This helped me re-connect with more confidence.
I also reconnected this connector before screwing the reader down. You will not have to contend with the pressure from bending the stiff wide cable leading from the connector.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die drei 3,1 mm JIS 000 Schrauben, mit denen die Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse und des Softwarekartenlesers am Gerät befestigt ist.
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Entferne die Halterung der Kopfhörerbuchse mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette .
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Entferne die Platine der Kopfhörerbuchse und des Softwarekartenlesers mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette.
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Klappe den kleinen, scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zum LCD mit einem Fingernagel, Spudger oder einem Öffnungswerkzeug hoch.
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Schiebe das Flachbandkabel mit einer Pinzette aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine heraus.
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Klappe den kleinen, scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des schmaleren Flachbandkabels zum LCD mit einem Fingernagel, Spudger oder einem Öffnungswerkzeug hoch.
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Schiebe das Flachbandkabel mit einer Pinzette aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine heraus.
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Lege einen erwärmten iOpener ungefähr zwei Minuten lang auf die Unterkante des Displays, um den Kleber darunter aufzuweichen.
I used a hair dryer because I don’t own a microwave and didn’t like the idea of boiling the iOpener - which apparently doesn’t work that well anyway. For reference, the hair dryer I used was a CONAIR 1875 Styler. I also used an infrared thermometer, which you’ll absolutely need if you’re not going to use the iOpener. You need the infrared thermometer because you must know when to stop heating the digitizer. There are delicate components nestled in the top of the Switch’s faceplate - right where you’ll be putting the heat. To begin:
1. Prepare your work area by clearing the surrounding surfaces of anything plastic, metal, or electronic - surrounding areas are sure to reach temps of up to 110 °F (43 °C).
2. Get something non-conductive like a small cardboard box to rest the disassembled Switch on top of. This will help to target the heat on the specified area, depending on which step you’re on.
3. Grab a piece of cardboard and cut it to the shape of the Switch screen, or around the same size. You will need this cardboard to protect the LCD and delicate internals.
4. Set your infrared thermometer to the side or somewhere close to the spot where you’ll be heating the digitizer.
5. Grab your hairdryer and set that to the side as well.
6. Position the Switch on the cardboard box so that you are ready to begin heating the first side of the digitizer as specified in Step 28. I found that it was easier to have the heated side facing me, so that I can hold the hairdryer more comfortably.
7. Begin heating the bottom of the digitizer, starting on the lowest setting of your hairdryer. You’ll want to hold the hairdryer just close enough that you have about three or so inches between the heat and the Switch itself. Heating the digitizer will take some time, so do not expect the temperature to rise rapidly. A rapid rise in temperature can damage sensitive internal components, even with the cardboard piece in place.
8. After 1 min 30 sec, check the digitizer temperature and make sure that the surface temperature (the opaque black border, not the actual screen) registers at 130 °F (54 °C) or higher. Continue heating on Low until a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher is reached.
9. When a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher has been reached, raise the hairdryer another two to three inches from the digitizer. Switch your hairdryer heat setting to High ( or Med, for three-temp hairdryers) and continue heating until a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached. Check the temperature every 2 secs to ensure even, consistent heating. Once a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached, do not heat the digitizer any further. Doing so could damage the LCD, internal antennas, or faceplate.
10. Repeat steps 6 thru 9 alongside the guide (Steps 28 thru 38) to complete the digitizer adhesive softening process.
Good luck! If this causes anyone any problems, reply here and I’ll try to respond as quickly as possible.
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Setze einen Saugheber auf die linke untere Ecke des Displays.
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Ziehe den Saugheber fest und gleichmäßig nach oben, bis ein Spalt entsteht.
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Setze die Spitze eines Plektrums in den Spalt ein, aber nicht tiefer als 5 mm.
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Schiebe das Plektrum zum Auftrennen des Klebers an der Unterkante des Displays entlang.
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Lasse das Plektrum stecken, damit der Rahmen nicht wieder festkleben kann.
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Setze ein zweites Plektrum links vom ersten Plektrum in den Spalt ein.
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Schiebe das Plektrum zur linken Seite des Gerätes hin.
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Lasse das Plektrum stecken.
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Erwärme die linke Displaykante ungefähr zwei Minuten lang, um den Kleber darunter aufzuweichen.
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Schiebe das Plektrum um die untere linke Ecke herum und trenne den Kleber weiter auf.
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Schiebe das Plektrum zum Auftrennen des Klebers weiter an der linken Displaykante entlang.
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Erwärme die Oberkante des Displays ungefähr zwei Minuten lang, um den Kleber darunter aufzuweichen.
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Schiebe das Plektrum um die obere linke Ecke herum und trenne den Kleber weiter auf.
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Schiebe das Plektrum zum Auftrennen des Klebers weiter an der Oberkante des Displays entlang.
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Erwärme die rechte Kante des Displays ungefähr zwei Minuten lang, um den Kleber darunter aufzuweichen.
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Setze das flache Ende des Spudgers in den Spalt an der linken Kante des Displays ein.
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Klappe das Display langsam und sorgfältig von der linken Seite her wie ein Buch auf.
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Hebe das Display an der rechten Kante gerade nach oben aus dem Gerät heraus, achte darauf, dass du dabei die Flachbandkabel durch den Rahmen führst.
What kind of glue is required to re-assembly the screen?
only thing missing. I am scraping the old adhesive off and trying to re-use
UPDATE: So, I was able to peel off the re-apply the old adhesive. It seems pretty secure, but we’ll see. Otherwise, this step needs an additional detail about what type of adhesive would be ideal to finish this.
Hi Jaxon!
Thanks for the suggestion! I added an extra bullet for the adhesive.
How many mm wide Tesa tape should I purchase?
Does anyone know where to find a replacement for the clear adhesive? I successfully completed the repair but the digitizer keeps separating from the screen.
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Vergleiche das Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Wenn das neue Display nach dem Hochfahren des Gerätes noch nicht richtig funktioniert, dann schalte es wieder aus. Trenne danach den Akku ab und schließe ihn wieder an.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen oder frage in unserem Nintendo Switch Forum nach Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Vergleiche das Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Wenn das neue Display nach dem Hochfahren des Gerätes noch nicht richtig funktioniert, dann schalte es wieder aus. Trenne danach den Akku ab und schließe ihn wieder an.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen oder frage in unserem Nintendo Switch Forum nach Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
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2 Kommentare
What size tesa tape best fits the original (not OLED) switch? I have a slightly loose screen and don't want to disassemble to measure without having the right size on hand.
I followed the steps, however the screen only works/lights up if I push on the screen. Any idea what I did wrong?
Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.
Ina Barz - Antwort
backup all your sd card data i had to format mine after this tutorial and lost all my game data
JustForThisComment?ComeOn - Antwort