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Einleitung

Changez l'écran complet, comprenant inverseur, antennes Airport, charnières et boîtier.

  1. À l'aide d'une pièce de monnaie, faites tourner la vis de verrouillage de la batterie de 90 degrés dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.
    • À l'aide d'une pièce de monnaie, faites tourner la vis de verrouillage de la batterie de 90 degrés dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.

    I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.

    ServiceDocs - Antwort

    This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...

    Thanks again!

    skraggle - Antwort

    Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job ifixit.com! Two thumbs up!

    Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!

    mikeutter - Antwort

    Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.

    Mike Woodruff - Antwort

    My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

    Calvin - Antwort

    Zitat von Calvin:

    My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

    Will not drop out even if you turn it upside down?

    skraggle - Antwort

    Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.

    josefsalyer - Antwort

    Somehow the plastic disc with the slot for a coin got dislodged from the case, and I can't seem to get it open now. Any tips/links on how to open this without the aid of the plastic disc?

    Peter Wood - Antwort

    i broke my disc off as well. I used two toothpicks to rotate the thing. hi tech.

    howard bederman -

    Outstanding guide - thank you!

    owen bullock - Antwort

    My computer will not charge when plugged in. It will stay on as ling as the plug is in the wall however if the power source gets disconnected it will shut down immediately. I removed the battery and put it back in that did not help. It worked and charged fine 2 days ago. I have a backpack with a laptop storage area. I went to hang the backpack up and it fell and ever since the battery is not functioning. Is there some fix I can try or is my only solution to replace it? I would have thought that dropping it would affect more than the battery?

    Beth Tomasek - Antwort

    Better leave the back pack where it cannot fall. Hindsight is so much better than foresight . I learned the hard way too!

    Loy Lum - Antwort

    Many of the tiny screws in this project were quite sticky. I found some blue Loctite residue that must have been when the Apple repair shop worked on the laptop years ago. I have found that it is important to hold the correct driver firmly down in the screw and then just tweak the driver in short bursts to loosen it before unscrewing it with a smooth turn.

    Patrick Langvardt - Antwort

    Be really careful while doing this to not use too much force while doing this step, because the plastic disc can break off and it can be a cosmetic issue along with functionality issue. This happened to me first hand so please take my word for it…

    Aaron Cooke - Antwort

    Probably worth mentioning at this stage that the caddy you propose to use should not have lugs on the front corners, like those used in unibody 1278 and onwards.

    harwood - Antwort

    Hehe, still my mac os running! After, already bit more than 10 years of use!

    I put new heat paste now for the second time. Maybe this helped for staying young so long.

    Thanx for all the repair guides!!!

    Fabien - Antwort

  2. Retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur en la soulevant.
    • Retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur en la soulevant.

    I just replaced the battery as indicated (with a iFixit part), but the computer says there is no battery connected, even after letting the power plug in for more than one hour.

    Jean Wallemacq - Antwort

    I think I found the way to have the new battery to charge!!!!!

    See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRYIMDQx....

    Essentially, you have to follow a very precise order: 1/shut down the computer, 2/take off the magsafe connector, 3/remove the old battery, 4/put back the magsafe connector, 5/put the new battery, 6/power on, each time leaving a few seconds in between.

    Jean Wallemacq - Antwort

  3. Dévissez les trois vis Phillips espacées régulièrement sur la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie.
    • Dévissez les trois vis Phillips espacées régulièrement sur la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie.

    • Les vis sont intégrées au capot métallique de la mémoire, vous ne pouvez donc pas les perdre.

    please pay attention that screws are native to metal pieces otherwise you are going to be a stupid like me trying to unscrew unsuccessfully until I reread the guide

    manochu - Antwort

    Lay the screws out in a ”timeline” like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the “timeline”

    decristoforo - Antwort

    The screws have to unscrewing positions, first they unscrew from the whole body BUT if you move the lid without entirely removing the screws, they will remain attached to the lid. This I find much more recomendable!

    Wytchkraft - Antwort

    I found when putting this back in that I had to use a spudger to work the mesh/foam into the slot where the memory cards are so the bracket would lay flat again when screwed back in.

    slwatts2 - Antwort

    What size screwdriver

    edward greene - Antwort

  4. Faites pivoter le capot de la mémoire en forme de L de manière à dégager l'ouverture du compartiment de la batterie, soulevez-le et sortez-le de l'ordinateur.
    • Faites pivoter le capot de la mémoire en forme de L de manière à dégager l'ouverture du compartiment de la batterie, soulevez-le et sortez-le de l'ordinateur.

    That looks so easy!

    caiden rutledge - Antwort

  5. Retirez les 3 vis suivantes :
    • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes :

    • Une vis Phillips n°00 11 mm au milieu du boîtier (tête : diamètre 5 mm x épaisseur 0,75 mm).

    • Deux vis Phillips n°00 14,5 mm (tête : diamètre 5 mm x épaisseur 0,75 mm).

    • Si les vis adhèrent au boîtier, vous pouvez utiliser un tournevis aimanté pour les sortir.

    • La plus courte de ces vis est celle du milieu.

    I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

    ryan64 - Antwort

    Zitat von ryan64:

    I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

    I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.

    Alaerus - Antwort

    The top two screws didn't seem to want to come out, and I saw no reason they had to, so I left them there, put a little piece of tape over each so they wouldn't fall out.

    HandyMac - Antwort

    You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.

    colmcostelloe - Antwort

    for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience

    manochu - Antwort

    I also did not find that I needed to remove the two 14.5 mm screws. I unscrewed them but they seemed designed to stay with the case and I found it did not seem to affect anything to just let them stay there.

    Alice - Antwort

  6. Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie :
    • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie :

    • Une vis Phillips n°0 3 mm (tête : diamètre 2,75 mm).

    • Deux vis Phillips n°0 4 mm de chaque côté (tête : diamètre 2,75 mm).

    • Soyez particulièrement prudent avec ces vis. Elles s'abîment très facilement.

    On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.

    The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.

    LaNoobieFixer - Antwort

    On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.

    scottgriz - Antwort

    I didn't look closely at these screws when I took it apart, but when I went to put it back together (two weeks later) I found I had two longer (4mm?) screws, and one short one. So I put the longer ones in the two end spots, the short one in the middle; they all seemed to go in okay. (Maybe the screws got changed around the last time the cracked top case was replaced, when the MB was in the Apple shop under warranty last year.)

    HandyMac - Antwort

    Me too. I had two longer 4mm screws here, and one 3mm screw. And I didn't pay attention to what holes each screw came out of. I put them back in a random order and it seems fine.

    Thomas -

    My early 2008 MacBook was the same. 2 x 4mm in the outer and 1 x 3mm in the centre.

    Ernie K -

    You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.

    colmcostelloe - Antwort

    I needed a tweezers here. These screws are tiny!

    If you lose one you may have to remove the RAM (by pulling the appropriate lever) and gently slide out the screw.

    colmcostelloe - Antwort

    oh thanks I thought the screw was lost forever

    Ike Broflovski -

    I couldn't pull over the two 3 mm Phillips on the step 6, how could you've done it?

    Eliotus - Antwort

    To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

    BeatJunkie - Antwort

    please note the position of the screws because when you are reinstalling them you might get confuse. this ones go below or under (sorry English inst my first language). There are two screw holes this steps are for the ones below.

    manochu - Antwort

    Zitat von BeatJunkie:

    To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

    Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)

    Cong Trieu - Antwort

    For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.

    Paul Collins - Antwort

    I have two MacBooks, one white and one black and both had two 3mm screws and one 4mm screw, opposite of what was in the main document

    doublel - Antwort

    In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..

    Julien Lesage - Antwort

    Mine was A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz. Of course I did not keep track of the screws and ended up with two shorter ones and one longer. Replaced them with the longer one to the right of the three. Got it done with a Wiha PH00 screwdriver. Had better hold than the bit from the precision screwdriver kit.

    quentinlow - Antwort

    me too. Got it done with a iFixIt PH00 screwdriver.

    Johhnie Doe -

    Yeah, same for me, #00 worked; #0 suggested in the guide was too big. I didn’t even try #000. For 2.2GHz A1181. My screw config matched the guide, 3mm in middle, 4mm on the sides.

    Les Kitchen -

    Stripped a head on my left screw (A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.0 GHz). Used a precision 1.5 slotted screwdriver to get enough bite to screw it out and back in.

    Daniel - Antwort

    I couldn't get the suggested Phillips #0 tip to grab. PH#00 worked, but I found the PH#000 to work the best.

    steveeb33 - Antwort

    I found this step to be the hardest to put back because of the angle - even with iFixIt's driver Flex Extension.

    steveeb33 - Antwort

    I had two 3mm screws and one 4mm screw…. So I put the 4mm screw in the middle hole, and the 3mm screws in the outer holes.

    FixWiki - Antwort

  7. Retirez les deux vis Phillips de chaque côté de la paroi droite du compartiment de la batterie (pas celles qui sont les plus proches du connecteur de la batterie).
    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips de chaque côté de la paroi droite du compartiment de la batterie (pas celles qui sont les plus proches du connecteur de la batterie).

    • Deux vis Phillips n°000 6,25 mm (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.

    Cong Trieu - Antwort

    Screwdriver PH0

    Projectors Band - Antwort

    For black 2.2GHz A1181, I used PH #000 as suggested by guide. My screws are both 6mm.

    Les Kitchen - Antwort

  8. Retirez les quatre vis Phillips indiquées de la paroi avant du compartiment de la batterie : En partant de la gauche, retirez les 2e, 4e, 7e et 9e vis.
    • Retirez les quatre vis Phillips indiquées de la paroi avant du compartiment de la batterie : En partant de la gauche, retirez les 2e, 4e, 7e et 9e vis.

    • Quatre vis Phillips n°000 3,25 mm (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 4 mm).

    It's recommended to use a PH00 screwdriver instead of the PH000.

    The PH000 is too small and you can damage the screwheads.

    Martin Born - Antwort

    Yeah, I found PH #00 better too. (For black 2.2Ghz A1181.)

    Les Kitchen -

    I used PH0 for this

    Projectors Band - Antwort

    Is there a way I can cut the bracket off? I completely stripped one of the screws?

    Austin Martin - Antwort

  9. Retirez les 4 vis suivantes à l'arrière de l'ordinateur :
    • Retirez les 4 vis suivantes à l'arrière de l'ordinateur :

    • Les vis les plus longues vont à l'intérieur de l'ordinateur, les plus courtes à l'extérieur.

    • Deux vis Phillips n°00 11 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2,2 mm x longueur 2 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    • Deux vis Phillips n°00 7,25 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2 mm x longueur 3,75 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    Outer screws (red) are shorter (7mm long), while inner screws (orange) are 11mm.

    ptb - Antwort

    I found these screws quite loose; upon reassembly, I wanted to torque them but found the case would distort towards the center, so I had to leave them fairly loose

    David A - Antwort

    I cannot get the two outer screws out for the life of me- and afraid of stripping them. Already see I'm doing some damage. Help? What can I do?

    Olivia - Antwort

    Are you sure you have a proper screwdriver? From my experience you really need to use the correct size and not just something that seems to fit.

    Jakub Clapa -

    Olivia, you can screw back the longer screws that go on the inside. In the photo marked with orange. Then open and close the lid of the MacBook a few times. This will fit the 4 screws more properly in the steel inner-frame and they can come a little bit loose.

    Close the lid again. Leave the inner screws untouched and begin with the outer screws (marked with red) with indeed a perfect matching screwdriver head (with a big and long grip for your hand). This worked for me perfectly without damage. Success!

    S van Dam -

    When reassembling, do not fully tighten the two 11 mm (orange) screws. When the plastic starts to flex, back it off until the strain on the plastic housing is released and leave it at that. The two 7.25 mm (red) can be snug.

    steveeb33 - Antwort

    Same experience as David. Case warped and left screws a little loose.

    spadu79 - Antwort

  10. Retirez les deux vis Phillips du côté de l'ordinateur correspondant au lecteur optique.
    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips du côté de l'ordinateur correspondant au lecteur optique.

    • Deux vis Phillips n°00 5,2 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2,3 mm x longueur 3,5 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    • Il est inutile de retirer les vis similaires présentes de l'autre côté de l'ordinateur.

    The screw farthest from the optical drive would not come out, all other screws came out fine with my screw driver and the screw looks ok, any tips on how to get the screw out?

    Aidan Morey - Antwort

    With some of the screws that can happen. I had it too. This did it for the MacBook I was repairing: 1. Open the MacBook. Then press firm but gentle on the upper case with your hand or fingers while trying to loosen the screw with your screwdriver. 2. I used a different screwdriver from the same size diameter but with a much larger hand-grip. Success!

    S van Dam -

  11. Ne retirez pas complètement le boîtier supérieur, car il est encore relié à la carte mère par le ruban du pavé tactile et du clavier.
    • Ne retirez pas complètement le boîtier supérieur, car il est encore relié à la carte mère par le ruban du pavé tactile et du clavier.

    • En commençant près de l'écran et en vous rapprochant de l'avant de l'ordinateur, soulevez le boîtier supérieur en faisant levier. Vous pouvez vous aider d'un médiator moyennement rigide pour cette opération.

    • Le boîtier supérieur risque d'adhérer à l'endroit où il est en contact avec le lecteur optique. Dans ce cas, dégagez d'abord les autres côtés, puis tirez sur le boîtier de chaque côté de l'ouverture du lecteur optique.

    • Si vous laissez la base posée, il se peut que vous retiriez quatre clips gris qui maintiennent le clavier en place. Pas de panique ! Ils s'insèrent dans quatre fentes situées dans le coin supérieur droit près du lecteur optique.

    There will be 4 grey plastic clips just right of the DVD drive. Note their position as they will fall out in the next steps.

    tim7866 - Antwort

    No such clips found on my early 2008 version.

    Ernie K -

    Thank you ifixit, it was huge help for me, I did it and everything just works great.....THANK YOU!

    Dako - Antwort

    As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.

    David Higgins - Antwort

    I had no problem at all in this step, the left side was already unlocked when I open the MacBook, the right side was a little tricky but i was able to pull it out in less than a minute

    manochu - Antwort

    The front left had an annoying little metal strip between the outside of the case and the tab. It's very easily bent, so the tab was caught on it. I spent a good deal of time trying to push and pull various things (and even just yank the @$!^ thing off), but eventually I found that if you undo the two screws you are told not to in step 7, the battery connector can be pulled up and out, leaving enough horizontal room to pull out the metal strip (with a little bit of coercion). I left it out when I put everything back together.

    James Pearson Hughes - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip. Saved me!

    Joe -

    Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.

    Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.

    Thomas - Antwort

    When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.

    Andrew Dent - Antwort

    I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?

    Eliza - Antwort

    If the upper case sticks above the optical drive, don't pull straight up, but up and to the left at the same time.

    frood - Antwort

    Wow, pulling both up and to the left made all the difference for me, to unstick the keyboard around the optical drive.

    Neil Steiner -

    I think it is a mistake to separate the keyboard from the clips at the right side (above the optical drive) at all! Instead, after freeing the other three sides, just slide the keyboard slightly to the left, and leave the clips attached to the keyboard. For reassembly, just put the keyboard in its approximate place and slide it to the right to get those clips into position. Be sure the keyboard is really snug against the machine’s case. Then press the other three edges of the keyboard down.

    jeh -

    The plastic around the edge is very thin and cracks easily, so be gentle while using the opening tool.

    Henry S - Antwort

    On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.

    Hendryk1982 - Antwort

    this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!

    Chinarut Ruangchotvit - Antwort

  12. Tout en tenant le boîtier supérieur d'une main, tirez sur la languette noire du câble argenté pour débrancher son connecteur. S'il n'y a pas de languette, servez-vous d'un spudger et faites levier sur le connecteur afin de le débrancher. Le connecteur est haut. Veillez à le maintenir bien droit pendant l'opération. Si vous rompez le câble lors du retrait du boîtier supérieur, sachez que vous pouvez l'acquérir en tant que pièce détachée et que nous proposons un guide pour faciliter son remplacement.
    • Tout en tenant le boîtier supérieur d'une main, tirez sur la languette noire du câble argenté pour débrancher son connecteur.

    • S'il n'y a pas de languette, servez-vous d'un spudger et faites levier sur le connecteur afin de le débrancher. Le connecteur est haut. Veillez à le maintenir bien droit pendant l'opération.

    • Si vous rompez le câble lors du retrait du boîtier supérieur, sachez que vous pouvez l'acquérir en tant que pièce détachée et que nous proposons un guide pour faciliter son remplacement.

    • Une fois le boîtier supérieur démonté, vous aurez peut-être envie de saisir l'opportunité de le débarrasser de cheveux, de poussière, etc. Le mieux, c'est d'utiliser un petit soufflet, même si vous pouvez prendre une brosse. Si c'est la cas, veillez à utiliser des poils naturels non électrostatiques pour ne pas nuire aux composants électroniques.

    • Quatre clips en plastique gris sont présents sur le côté du clavier correspondant au lecteur optique. Lors du remontage, veillez à bien les insérer dans leurs logements pour que le clavier s'enclenche en position.

    • Pour faciliter le remontage, il est préférable de retirer les clips d'abord en tirant vers le haut doucement. Faites attention de ne pas mettre trop de force parce qu'ils casseront..

    When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your macbook!

    spi - Antwort

    The entire connector broke off the logic board when I was disconnecting the keyboard just now. Be extremely careful!

    Chris - Antwort

    I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?

    Roger - Antwort

    I could not get the keyboard off my the body... (black macbook I don't know if that makes any difference). It was stuck bottom left hand corner, so I had to bend whatever was stuck to get access to the logicboard etc... any reason why this is the case??

    Takuma - Antwort

    not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

    carlos - Antwort

    Great repair guide! Changing the top case was pretty easy and it saved me a lot of money.

    Harry - Antwort

    it was really easy, i had no experience whatsoever installing or unistalling mac parts (or pc either). it just took me less than 25 minutes, and i just finish and Im typing from my new upper case keyboard.

    manochu - Antwort

    After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!

    jgreengold - Antwort

    Note - I agree, this was VERY easy - great pictures, perfect explanations...

    jgreengold - Antwort

    Zitat von carlos:

    not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

    Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

    E Chambliss - Antwort

    Zitat von E Chambliss:

    Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

    no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

    carlos - Antwort

    Zitat von carlos:

    no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

    Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

    Francisco - Antwort

    Zitat von Francisco:

    Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

    my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts

    carlos - Antwort

    Zitat von spi:

    When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!

    How do you do it? I can't get it out

    Superb guide thank you guys

    eli - Antwort

    This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.

    Andrew Dent - Antwort

    Be very careful while you pulling the black tab! It's better to use spudger to pry the connector from it's housing while you gently pulling the black tab.

    eaksut - Antwort

    Clips removal: its hard with finger to pull. It's better and easy off with a pry tool (I used a flat twiser) to pry from the bottom gently for each clips. It was so smooth and easy.

    Johhnie Doe - Antwort

    After I clean everything nice… put the cable back and DO NOT TURN ON. What the !&&* happens!? Ideias my friends? :(

    Sorry my bad english!

    glecyo medeiros - Antwort

    Getting the upper-case/keyboard off was a bit nerve-wracking. Just work away at it carefully, bit by bit.

    A small torch (flashlight for our American friends) was handy to see what was happening underneath the upper-case. Otherwise too dark.

    I used a photographic lens-cleaning blower (with the rubber squeeze bulb, just the blower, no brush) to get away the dust. Probably not as effective as canned air, but it worked well enough. I’d recommend avoiding touching anything with the tip of the blower. Keep it a few mm away.

    Les Kitchen - Antwort

    After removing the keyboard I noticed that the side clips were not attached to the body but rather to the keyboard still. Easily removed but something to note.

    Philip Lynes - Antwort

  13. Saisissez la languette en plastique blanc fixée au disque dur et tirez-la vers la gauche pour retirer le disque dur de l'ordinateur.
    • Saisissez la languette en plastique blanc fixée au disque dur et tirez-la vers la gauche pour retirer le disque dur de l'ordinateur.

    Note, if you’ve already installed an optical/SATA adapter, and you’re doing this just to replace the SATA drive, then you might be able to skip almost all of the following steps. It seems that for the sort of adapter described in this guide (with the drive secured by a plastic positioner), you should be able to leave pretty much everything in place, and swap out the SATA drive (though you might need to move the Bluetooth antenna holder out of the way).

    Unfortunately for me, mine is a different kind of adapter, with the drive secured by screws from the underside, so I still had to go through almost all the steps to get the adapter out. I can’t even remember where I got the adapter. I think it was probably from iFixit, but it might have been a different, earlier version.

    Les Kitchen - Antwort

    Backstory is that I put an SSD in the adapter a few years back to replace a dead optical drive. And it worked with the extra drive, but it seemed to function slowly, at optical-drive rather than SSD speed. Recently, the machine stopped detecting the extra hard-drive. I don’t know why. My guess is that in an upgrade something changed in how the kernel detects devices, and it got confused by an SSD being where it expected an optical drive. (I’m running Debian GNU/Linux, it being the only way I can run up-to-date software on a machine no longer supported by Apple, and I’m a Free Software enthusiast anyway.) Your mileage may vary… Because the SATA drive wasn’t being detected, and I needed access to the data on it, I had no choice for the time being but to take out the SSD and go back to a single-drive machine. The main drive is SSD, and I’ve upgrade to the max 6GB RAM, so it’s still a pretty useful machine.

    I’m planning to put the adapter back in, just in case the void would be bad for cooling air-flow.

    Les Kitchen - Antwort

  14. Retirez les deux vis Phillips du bord avant du lecteur optique.
    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips du bord avant du lecteur optique.

    • Deux vis Phillips n°000 3,25 mm, (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 0,3 mm)

    After installing the caddy successfully, I could not make the screw on the right fit in again. The distance between the hole and the caddy seemed to be too big.

    ThomasKS - Antwort

    !! I can't remove the left screw, and ended up "screwing" it.. it's a round hole now. What should I do?

    wkurosawa - Antwort

  15. Débranchez le câble-ruban orange du lecteur optique de la carte mère. Pour débrancher ce câble, vous pouvez également utiliser un spudger pour le soulever en faisant levier.
    • Débranchez le câble-ruban orange du lecteur optique de la carte mère. Pour débrancher ce câble, vous pouvez également utiliser un spudger pour le soulever en faisant levier.

    Pull straight up from the left

    tjkredo - Antwort

  16. Débranchez le câble de données de l'écran qui est à présent accessible. Si aucune languette d'extraction n'est présente sur le dessus du connecteur, vous pouvez vous servir d'un spudger pour débrancher ce connecteur.
    • Débranchez le câble de données de l'écran qui est à présent accessible. Si aucune languette d'extraction n'est présente sur le dessus du connecteur, vous pouvez vous servir d'un spudger pour débrancher ce connecteur.

    The display cable was difficult to disconnect for me. I had to pull firmly and use the spudger at the same time to finally pop it off.

    supershibbydude1 - Antwort

    I pulled firmly on the tab, while rocking back and forth slightly.

    Les Kitchen -

    Pull the connector firmly straight up.

    Eric - Antwort

    I have found over the years that a connector puller is invaluable in these situations. I believe that I bought mine from iFixit. In steps 16 and 17 you'll have to partially de-route two cables at the base of the connectors in order to get a good grip with the connector puller.

    randy3833 - Antwort

  17. Débranchez le câble du disque dur auquel vous avez maintenant accès.
    • Débranchez le câble du disque dur auquel vous avez maintenant accès.

    This step is not necessary

    nycstb - Antwort

    Left Off Here

    velopro - Antwort

    When reconnecting the Hard Drive Cable to the logic board (Step 17) I ran the HD cable on top of the microphone wire, and the other wire that runs parallel to it, when I should have run the HD cable underneath those two wires. This resulted in the hard drive not being connected on startup, and a lengthy troubleshooting session to figure this out. So save some time and install this underneath the two wires, just like you found it when taking it apart!

    mrphiliprichard - Antwort

    I've found it very useful to take photos of wire routing on disassembly for later reference.

    randy3833 - Antwort

  18. Décollez le ruban adhésif alu entre le ventilateur et le lecteur optique. Enlevez le ruban du côté du ventilateur et laissez-le sur le lecteur optique.
    • Décollez le ruban adhésif alu entre le ventilateur et le lecteur optique. Enlevez le ruban du côté du ventilateur et laissez-le sur le lecteur optique.

    • Lors du réassemblage, faites attention de bien positionner les câbles sous le ruban adhésif avant de les recoller.

    I was gently pulling up the tape with a spudger, but the tape snapped clean in half right at the edge of the optical drive. I'm really pretty surprised because I see no reason why it would have done that.

    Neil Steiner - Antwort

    Leave the foil on the fan side cause you’ll be taking it off the optical drive anyway

    Luke - Antwort

  19. Tirez vers le haut le câble de données de l'écran, qui longe le côté du lecteur optique de manière à avoir accès à une vis Phillips argentée.
    • Tirez vers le haut le câble de données de l'écran, qui longe le côté du lecteur optique de manière à avoir accès à une vis Phillips argentée.

    I had to unscrew a screw securing flat ribbons keeping cables in position between beeper and fan to reach for the dvd screw

    t0m - Antwort

  20. Retirez la vis Phillips de 2 mm par laquelle est fixé le lecteur optique.
    • Retirez la vis Phillips de 2 mm par laquelle est fixé le lecteur optique.

    • Il est possible que la vis soit recouverte par le câble Bluetooth ; dans ce cas, déplacez précautionneusement ce dernier avant de retirer la vis.

    STEP 20 - IMPORTANT= This screw secures a mounting bracket on the optical drive. This bracket's eyelets are slotted. The right side of the bracket has a tab inserted in the bottom case. After removing the screw, use the spudger to slide the bracket to the left. This disengages the tab from the right side of the case, thus allowing the optical drive to be lifted out in step 23.

    xtian - Antwort

    As an addition to xtian's note, the bracket that you need to slide right (and a spudger is very useful here) it may be because the rear right (as in the picture) of the optical drive needs to be GENTLY pushed down as the bracket end needs to slot into a hole on the right hand side of the case.

    Ernie K -

    After removing the screw gently push the metal tong (which the screw was holding) towards the fan. This will unlock the drive mount.

    Tom Roinisto - Antwort

    Please add this notes to the actual step. I missed the comments and bent the bracket.

    huso - Antwort

    I used a #000 Phillips.

    Eric - Antwort

    I found it helpful to remove the screw sitting to the lower left of the speaker.

    patjmccarthy - Antwort

    There is only one screw holding the optical drive down, the one circled in red. the one in orange is for the ground loop for the microphone and right speaker cable. Also, a spudger makes quick work of moving the cables out of the way to get to the screw for easy removal/replacement.

    Leo LeBron - Antwort

    As I tried to refit the optical drive, the plastic mount for the brass threaded socket that receives the screw crumbled like an old tooth. Only thing for it was to ditch the plastic and superglue the brass socket into place on the case - seems to have worked. (People who design parts/fixings that involve strong materials held in place by weaker ones should be imprisoned). I also had to remove the sliding bracket on the drive and cut 2/3mm off the right hand end to get the screw hole to align with the brass socket, also seems not to have caused any harm. Never thought I would find myself lashing out with the superglue and wielding a hacksaw inside a laptop...empowered!

    muir mackean - Antwort

  21. Soulevez la carte Bluetooth sur le côté droit du lecteur optique.
    • Soulevez la carte Bluetooth sur le côté droit du lecteur optique.

  22. Déroutez le câble du disque dur qui passe à l'avant du lecteur optique.
    • Déroutez le câble du disque dur qui passe à l'avant du lecteur optique.

  23. Soulevez le bord avant du lecteur optique et faites-le glisser vers le haut pour le sortir de l'ordinateur.
    • Soulevez le bord avant du lecteur optique et faites-le glisser vers le haut pour le sortir de l'ordinateur.

    On the the optical drive there is a sliding-bar (secured by two screws, which fixes the drive in the right edge of the Alu-frame) that has to be shifted to the left when taking the drive off. Especially, before putting the optical drive back to the computer, make sure that the the sliding bar is in its leftward position in order not to block the insertion of the drive. Then shift the bar gently to the right thereby fixing the drive's position.

    armin - Antwort

    Thanks! Even so, I had to get the drive aligned just right, so that the sliding bar could mate with the matching slot in the case.

    Les Kitchen -

  24. Dévissez les 3 vis suivantes :
    • Dévissez les 3 vis suivantes :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 3 mm à côté du haut-parleur droit.

    • Une vis cruciforme de 6 mm fixée à travers un trou dans un dispositif en plastique au-dessus du caisson de basse.

    • Veillez à ne pas trop serrer la vis au-dessus du caisson de basse, le plastique pourrait craquer.

    • Les MacBook Santa Rosa et Penryn n'ont pas cette pièce de support. Si vous démontez un de ces modèles, dévissez seulement l'unique vis cruciforme de 3 mm du haut-parleur droit et sautez l'étape 26.

    If you don’t have the c-channel it seems you can skip steps 24, 25, and 26.

    mike s - Antwort

    Santa Rosa and Penryn use a #000 phillips for the speaker screw.

    Eric - Antwort

  25. Retirez le haut-parleur droit de son emplacement et mettez-le de côté.
    • Retirez le haut-parleur droit de son emplacement et mettez-le de côté.

  26. Si vous avec un modèle Santa Rosa/Penryn, sautez cette étape.
    • Si vous avec un modèle Santa Rosa/Penryn, sautez cette étape.

    • Avec une spatule, faites délicatement levier pour ouvrir la fente en plastique blanc, glissez le profilé métallique vers la droite et enlevez-le de l'écran.

  27. Avec une spatule (spudger), déconnectez soigneusement le câble du microphone de la carte mère. Travaillez d'un côté à l'autre et faites sortir lentement le connecteur de sa prise en le remuant.
    • Avec une spatule (spudger), déconnectez soigneusement le câble du microphone de la carte mère. Travaillez d'un côté à l'autre et faites sortir lentement le connecteur de sa prise en le remuant.

    • En tirant sur ce connecteur verticalement, vous pouvez briser la prise sur la carte mère. Ce connecteur doit être retiré horizontalement en tirant doucement le câble du microphone vers l'écran et en travaillant avec une spatule entre le connecteur et la prise.

  28. Soulevez le câble noir du haut-parleur droit d'une main et enlevez le câble du microphone du clip en métal argenté juste au-dessus de la fente de la RAM de droite.
    • Soulevez le câble noir du haut-parleur droit d'une main et enlevez le câble du microphone du clip en métal argenté juste au-dessus de la fente de la RAM de droite.

    • On ne trouve pas ce clip en métal dans tous les modèles. Assurez-vous que le câble est dégagé du clip de retenue dans cette zone avant de poursuivre .

    I find it very strange that it’s omitted, but to deroute the microphone cable, you will have to unscrew the cable right next to (above) it. At least, I had to. It’s not hard, but you can’t deroute the microphone cable without derouting the other cable.

    Make sure to remember that this screw is removed when reassembling!

    FixWiki - Antwort

  29. Si vous n’avez pas retiré la vis de mise à terre lors de l'étape 20, faites-le maintenant . C’est une vis cruciforme Phillips de 7 mm (peut être de 4,2 mm dans les modèles Santa Rosa/Penryn) fixant la mise à terre du câble du haut-parleur droit et du câble du microphone au châssis métallique.
    • Si vous n’avez pas retiré la vis de mise à terre lors de l'étape 20, faites-le maintenant . C’est une vis cruciforme Phillips de 7 mm (peut être de 4,2 mm dans les modèles Santa Rosa/Penryn) fixant la mise à terre du câble du haut-parleur droit et du câble du microphone au châssis métallique.

    Put close attention to how the cables are laid out to get the same staking order, when reassembling I did not care about the order and as a result they were not as "Flat" as before and made the DVD drive insertion a bit more hard as it did not sit as deep as it should, so I had to re arrange the cables and once they were right the DVD drive sat perfectly. I would suggest taking a photo before re-routing them.

    Daniel - Antwort

    For the second time that I changed an inverter I skipped to disconnect the microphone cable (steps 27 to 30) because it's really hard to wiggle the connector out of its socket and it looks very fragile.

    By doing this you can not move the display assembly far from the case BUT it's not a problem for the next steps (front bezel and clutch cover).

    I won time and did not have to replace display and microphone cables what is not easy because of the lack of place and if the SuperDrive is compressed it can block CDs.

    Not sure if that will help...

    Charlocom -

  30. Dégagez le câble du microphone et le câble noir de données de l'écran des onglets fixés en bas du caisson de basse.
    • Dégagez le câble du microphone et le câble noir de données de l'écran des onglets fixés en bas du caisson de basse.

    Is the silver wire really the microphone? I noticed wear right down to the wire on mine, and the macbook often has yellow/goofy looking screen, then adjusting the angle helps.

    Luke - Antwort

    On my Penryn model, it helped to deroute the data display cable and the microphone cable from under the tabs of the subwoofer by loosening the two Phillips screws to the right of the speaker.

    randy3833 - Antwort

  31. Dévissez la vis cruciforme Phillips de 3 mm, qui fixe la mise à terre du câble de données de l’écran, se trouvant juste au-dessus de la carte Bluetooth .
    • Dévissez la vis cruciforme Phillips de 3 mm, qui fixe la mise à terre du câble de données de l’écran, se trouvant juste au-dessus de la carte Bluetooth .

    The ground screw also holds down a ground loop that is part of the speaker cable. The two loops may be stuck together so you need to carefully separate them.

    kyoungdale - Antwort

  32. Débranchez les trois câbles d'antenne de la carte Airport. Il peut y avoir un morceau de mousse carré sur le connecteur de la carte mère. Débranchez le câble de l'inverseur en insérant la spatule entre le bord droit ou gauche de la fiche et en la soulevant doucement. (Ne retirez PAS toute la prise de la carte mère, tirez sur la fiche depuis l'intérieur de la prise.) La fiche de l'inverseur se tire verticalement. Ne tirez pas vers les fils de connexion, vous arracheriez le connecteur.
    • Débranchez les trois câbles d'antenne de la carte Airport. Il peut y avoir un morceau de mousse carré sur le connecteur de la carte mère.

    • Débranchez le câble de l'inverseur en insérant la spatule entre le bord droit ou gauche de la fiche et en la soulevant doucement. (Ne retirez PAS toute la prise de la carte mère, tirez sur la fiche depuis l'intérieur de la prise.) La fiche de l'inverseur se tire verticalement. Ne tirez pas vers les fils de connexion, vous arracheriez le connecteur.

    • Si vous avez un MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, il n'y a que deux câbles d'antenne et le câble noir de l'inverseur est situé ailleurs.

    Don't pry the plastic connector from the board, but rather, the plastic connector is two pieces. Separate them.

    Joscon5 - Antwort

    For the MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn: the inverter cable is a bit tricky. I was fooled into thinking that there were pins which went INTO the inverter cable. Because of this, I was afraid of lifting up on the cable (off the board), but this is what you actually must do to separate them.

    For clarification, here's a pic (low-res, sorry) of the inverter cable disconnected from it's on-board plug: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_l0f6yKkaxDU/S0FOHS...

    jetrost - Antwort

    The inverter connector comes off vertically from the motherboard.

    James - Antwort

    Can I get a replacement connecter that the inverter cable connects to and solder it on? I broke mine taking to of how it says in the guide

    edward - Antwort

    i also broke mine off the motherboard on accident. it appears to be a fairly clean break. is there anyone who has had luck soldering them back on?

    michael -

    Antenna connectors pull up.

    Eric - Antwort

    About disconnecting the inverter cable. I had more luck wedging the pointed end of spludger between the PCB near the cables and the shoulder of the connector nearest the display. I then pushed the pointed end of the spludger away from the display and the connector popped up off the socket. when trying to use the spludger on the sides of the socket, i deformed the plastic edges of the socket.

    Linda Vanasupa - Antwort

    This worked well for me too.

    Jeremiah Banks -

    Pull vertical for santa rose models as well, be delicate with this part, very tricky.

    Abraham Q - Antwort

    The inverter cable was fine if a little fiddly, but I can't get the antenna cables back on at all - anyone got any ideas? Even with bright lights and magnifiers I can't see why they won't go back in. (And I don't know why ifixit thinks I'm called facebook -- Sam)

    facebook - Antwort

    ... and of course as soon as I ask for help I find the answer. Don't try to push the plug vertically into the socket on the Airport board, start it at an angle with the cable running up and away from you towards the screen, then rock it back horizontal and it just clicks into place. -- Sam

    facebook -

    A method to remove the inverter cable connector that just worked great for me: I hooked a dental pick underneath the connector at the cable side (display side) and picked in right up out of the socket. I wiggled it a little first to make sure that I only had the connector hooked.

    randy3833 - Antwort

    After destroying a similar connector on a fan replacement with a dental pick, I've decided to withdraw my recommendation to use one. Best to use the flat end of the smaller spudger and pry the connector out from under the wire (screen) side, very slowly, working from side to side.

    randy3833 - Antwort

  33. Retirez les 2 vis suivantes de la charnière de droite : Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 6 mm sur le côté gauche de la charnière.
    • Retirez les 2 vis suivantes de la charnière de droite :

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 6 mm sur le côté gauche de la charnière.

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 10 mm sur le côté droit de la charnière.

    • Pour les modèles Santa Rosa/Penryn, voir la deuxième image et enlever :

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 3 mm et de plus petit diamètre tout à gauche.

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 5,2 mm et d'un diamètre de 4,2 mm au milieu.

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 10 mm tout à droite.

    • Démontez la charnière droite avec la petite pièce en plastique et enlevez-la de l'ordinateur.

    I have the regular (not Santa Rosa/Penryn) model, and instead of a 6mm Phillips screw on the left, it was a 5mm Phillips screw. It didn’t make a difference, however.

    FixWiki - Antwort

  34. Maintenez l'écran d'une main tout en retirant les vis de la charnière gauche.
    • Maintenez l'écran d'une main tout en retirant les vis de la charnière gauche.

    • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la charnière gauche :

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 7,2 mm et de plus petit diamètre à droite.

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 5,2 mm et de plus grand diamètre au milieu .

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 10 mm à gauche.

    • Soulevez la charnière gauche avec la pièce en plastique et sortez-la de l'ordinateur.

    • Vérifiez que les câbles à droite ne sont pas cachés par d'autres câbles.

    I tried this last night and the screen fell backward, cracking the components of the hinge. Be careful and support the screen here once you unscrew the hinges!

    TheLordSmurf - Antwort

    What is that plastic hinge thingie called in step 34. The piece broke and I'd like to replace that.

    shawniemichael8 - Antwort

    Can anyone else confirm what I’ve written below?…

    In my macbook, which is the regular (not Santa Rosa/Penryn) model, the longest 10mm screw is the same, but the middle screw and the right screw are both approximately 5mm. However, the middle screw is fatter/wider and the right screw is thinner.

    Also, when reassembling, make sure all three screws are easily screwed in before tightening each one. The hinge mount that you’re fastening down will wiggle a bit before being fully tightened down, possibly causing the screw holes to not line up!

    FixWiki - Antwort

  35. Saisissez l'ensemble écran des deux côtés, soulevez-le et ôtez-le de l'ordinateur.
    • Saisissez l'ensemble écran des deux côtés, soulevez-le et ôtez-le de l'ordinateur.

    For those wishing to go further into the LCD, the steps are identical to the MB CD, see this repair guide for more:

    MacBook Core Duo Inverter Replacement

    MC25 - Antwort

Abschluss

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les instructions en sens inverse.

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iRobot

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As it turns out, I have a Sanata Rosa/Penryn model and I didn't even know.

Marc Carroll - Antwort

hi

can you help me

do you know model number of lcd panel in macbook core 2 duo 1.83(MA699LL/A probably)

i want to make external display,for this i need to buy CONTROLLER BOARD

i just dont want open plastic that surround lcdpanel

thanks

Artem Nikiforov - Antwort

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