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Einleitung

Countless Ring Video doorbell Pros have died completely as a result of a faulty battery. The symptoms of this is a completely dead unit that will not respond to power at all or a unit that reboots unexpectedly. Unfortunately, Ring doesn't sell the replacement battery and It cannot be found anywhere on the internet, so a generic 3.7v 200mah battery will have to be fitted. This guide will show you how to take the unit apart and replace the battery.

  1. First, disconnect and remove the doorbell from the house. Make sure the breaker for the doorbell is switched off at the electrical panel.
    • First, disconnect and remove the doorbell from the house. Make sure the breaker for the doorbell is switched off at the electrical panel.

    • Make sure the face-plate is removed since the screws holding the unit together are underneath it.

  2. After the face-plate has been removed, use a small phillips screwdriver to remove the screws from the four corners of the device.
    • After the face-plate has been removed, use a small phillips screwdriver to remove the screws from the four corners of the device.

    • Let the screws fall out by gently turning the unit over. Don't lose the screws!

  3. After the screws have been removed, carefully remove the back of the unit by using a soft, plastic spudger.
    • After the screws have been removed, carefully remove the back of the unit by using a soft, plastic spudger.

    • It may take some force to remove the back due to the plastic snaps holding it on, but take care not to apply too much pressure.

  4. After the back has been removed, you should now be able to see the inside of the unit.
    • After the back has been removed, you should now be able to see the inside of the unit.

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  6. Next, remove the two silver screws holding the motherboard in place (see red circles)
    • Next, remove the two silver screws holding the motherboard in place (see red circles)

    • Also, disconnect the battery, IR, and antenna connections (see orange circles) The battery is already disconnected in this photo.

    • Be VERY careful when removing the small connectors. They will shatter if not handled properly. Use a small plastic spudger, and gently pry up from underneath the connector. Work your way under the connector gently.

  7. After disconnection, seperate the speaker from the unit by tilting the unit over and letting it fall out. You can also apply gentle force using a plastic spudger if necessary.
    • After disconnection, seperate the speaker from the unit by tilting the unit over and letting it fall out. You can also apply gentle force using a plastic spudger if necessary.

  8. After the speaker has been removed, you should now be able to see the battery underneath.
    • After the speaker has been removed, you should now be able to see the battery underneath.

    • The next step is to remove the motherboard from the casing. To do this, first make sure the necessary connectors have been disconnected and the two silver screws have also been removed as mentioned in step 5.

    • Apply gentle pressure to the edges of the motherboard and gently pry it loose from the casing. You should feel a small amount of resistance as there is a small bit of adhesive present holding the motherboard in place.

  9. The motherboard is now removed. You should now be able to clearly see the battery sitting in the bottom of the case.
    • The motherboard is now removed. You should now be able to clearly see the battery sitting in the bottom of the case.

    • Remove the battery by applying gentle to moderate force to pry it away from the casing. There is some adhesive holding it in place.

    • There is a small strip of metal tape underneath the battery. Try to keep this tape in tact.

  10. After the battery has been removed, the clear tape on the old battery needs to be removed. Do this by carefully unwrapping the clear yellow tape from the battery. Any excessive force will damage the battery.
    • After the battery has been removed, the clear tape on the old battery needs to be removed. Do this by carefully unwrapping the clear yellow tape from the battery. Any excessive force will damage the battery.

    • Next, de-solder the old battery circuit from the old battery. You will need this circuit, so be careful not to damage it!

    • If you heat up the battery too hot, it will explode! You must be quick when de-soldering and soldering to the battery!

    • De-solder the battery circuit that comes with the new cell, and solder the battery circuit from the old ring battery to the new battery. This will convert your new cell to a cell compatible with the Ring's charging circuitry.

    • Make sure to observe polarities. The solder pad with the red wire next to it goes to the '+'poll on the battery, and the solder pad with the black wire next to it goes to the '-' poll on the battery.

    Just a little extra clarification on the de-soldering: I struggled at first because I thought the metal foil strips from the battery were the things to be de-soldered, but in fact they are stamped onto small, thin, square metal plates and its the plates that need to be de-soldered from the circuit board, not the foil (same of course for the new battery as well as the old one).

    Mark - Antwort

  11. After the necessary soldering has been done, carefully fold the battery circuit to where it is tucked into the battery.
    • After the necessary soldering has been done, carefully fold the battery circuit to where it is tucked into the battery.

  12. After this, cover up the battery circuitry with some electrical tape, this will prevent shorts.
    • After this, cover up the battery circuitry with some electrical tape, this will prevent shorts.

    • Remove the antenna pad from the old battery, and attach it to the new battery with some spray adhesive.

    Heater? U sure that isn’t the WiFi antenna?

    Btw, I just finished this procedure. The hardest part was soldering the new battery to the old board. Almost immediately the tiny square pads that the battery tabs need to be soldered to will become unseated. Very very frustrating.

    Jim Banville - Antwort

    Yes, it can be a bit tricky. BTW, the battery works just fine without those silver contacts. Those are for the special “spot welding” procedures, meant to avoid any heat contact with the battery. If you remove the contacts, there’s a grid pattern underneath, just put enough solder on to cover that pattern and look like the silver pads are still present. Or, you could try to leave the pads on, it’s up to you.

    You can’t spot weld to solder pads on a PCB, so those extra thick pads were added to allow this procedure.

    As far as that heater/antenna is concerned, I’ve heard it referred to as both! Not quite sure on that one.

    Matthew Bishop - Antwort

    Just changed it from heater, to “antenna pad”.

    Matthew Bishop - Antwort

    Heater was correct, you can see “heater" in the photo on step 7

    Wade Knoke - Antwort

    Do you have information on where you sourced your battery? Why wouldn't you leave the existing battery circuit on replacement in place and just change the connector?

    Something like this:

    https://m.aliexpress.com/item/817340919....

    Carlyle Christensen - Antwort

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

9 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Matthew Bishop

Mitglied seit: 08.02.2019

443 Reputation

1 Anleitung geschrieben

This guide was very helpful for me and allowed me to save my Ring Pro. The only thing I would say it is missing is a better description of how to get the black connectors off the board (two of the orange circles). They are extremely fragile and must be dealt with carefully. The first one I removed shattered and cost me additional work during the reassembly. The important part I learn is to not apply any force to wires themselves (don’t lift from the cabled as described). I found the best way to get the connector off the board is with a very small knife slid under the connector. I followed underneath the wires with the blade to slide it under the connector. Once the blade is under the connector you can gently pry it up and it will be reusable. lifting from the wires caused my connector to fall apart.

This is the battery worked for me. basically you are looking for a 200mAh 3.7v cell.

Amazon search - uxcell Power Supply DC 3.7V 200mAh 552025 Li-ion Rechargeable Lithium Polymer Li-Po Battery

Michael Schultz - Antwort

Hi, glad this fixed the issue for you. I will try to fix the article with better instructions on removal of the connectors. I do believe, that using a knife could be dangerous.. electrically speaking. Believe it or not, the ring is still quite active when it appears dead. The battery in mine still had 3.5v on it. When the unit gets below 3.8, it cuts off, but still has plenty of power. If you use a knife, it will short the pins on the connectors and possibly destroy the electronics, especially if the battery hasn’t been unplugged. I do believe that there is a better way than pulling on the wires though.

Just edited, and I used your method, but used the plastic spudger instead of the knife.

Matthew Bishop -

I've found the old battery type is: FT60205P/300mAh 1,14Wh 3,8V 3C.

Was your's also this type? Because u use for the new battery a 3,7V with a capacity of 200mAh.

Hendry - Antwort

Hi Hendry,

The old battery from my Ring was also 300mAh 3.7V. The reason I replaced it with the 200mAh is I couldn’t find a 300mAh battery small enough to fit at the time of replacement. 200mAh or even 100mAh would probably do just as good since the ring is only powered for about 3 seconds on battery (while the circuit to the door bell chime is completed).

Matthew Bishop -

Hendry,

Did you find the exact battery that would fit in the ring pro?

Jeff Sheehy -

Ring says they offer a replacement if it is still under warranty. If not under warranty, we offer a discount code - to purchase a new one at a discounted price.

anonymous 8727 - Antwort

Discount code for a new battery cell, or a new Ring? Most people have come to this site because their Ring Pro is no longer in warranty. I think it’s foolish to just toss the Ring and use a discount code to get a new one, especially after users have come to this page to learn how to fix it. This guide is on how to fix the Ring Pro, and it’s fairly straightforward to understand, so I hope users will fix their Ring rather than just buy a new one… even at a discount.

Matthew Bishop -

This was a great resource to find after my Ring Pro went quiet after 2 years of service. I ordered the recommended battery from amazon ($6.49) and attempted the fix my self with success. The doorbell powered up and has been working just fine.

I would like to suggest several updates to the DIY.

1.) You do not need to remove all of the plugs from the motherboard. I found that you only need to remove the plug for the battery. The battery can be taken out without removing the motherboard. Un-clipping all those micro-connectors introduces unnecessary risk.

2.) Cut the battery tabs off the old battery as close as you can to the battery seam. This will give you more material to solder too when attaching the circuit board to the new battery. For the new battery, cut the tabs off as close to the circuit board. This will enable you to solder tab to tab vs. overheating the circuit board or battery.

Beyond that a very helpful fix it!! This provide a $6.49 solution to a $250 replacement issue. THANK YOU THANK YOU!

Clifton - Antwort

Would you have dimensions of original battery? This would be helpful in selection of replacement battery.

leff1rj - Antwort

You can find the battery on amazon.

Below are the details requested.

Voltage: DC 3.7V; Capacity: 200mAh

Material: Lithium Polymer; Net Weight: 5g

Size: 27 x 20 x 5.1mm / 1.06" x 0.79" x 0.2" (L*W*T)

Clifton -

Awesome. A dead Ring Pro was brought back to life. Thank you so much.

I could not find the 602025 battery through Amazon, but there is a close alternative, 502025 with the same 3.7V and 200mAh and a price tag of $6.49 as of December 31s 2019. The instructions were perfect, and when complete, I simply had to reconnect the device using the App.

Don’t forget to reconnect to your home network after temporarily connecting to the “Ring” network during setup.

kfbeilstein - Antwort

QUESTION for those who were successful: After reassembly do I need to plug in the micro usb cable and charge the new battery ? Or did you just wire it back into the 24VAC or whatever you have on the doorbell transformer secondary? Thanks.

Jack Hudson - Antwort

Hi Jack,

I connected my unit to the microUSB just to verify it was working and I left it to charge for a short while. Then, I connected it back to the doorbell connection.

Matthew Bishop -

Hi,

Mine has also this battery FT60205P/300mAh 1,14Wh 3,8V 3C.

Does anyone know where i can find this battery? Or can i just use the model 3.7v 200mah?

jo vs - Antwort

Hi,

Unfortunitely, the 300mAh battery that ring originally included in the device can not be sourced. Maybe it’s out there now, but I couldn’t find it at the time I drafted the guide. You can use the 200mah 3.7V battery referenced in the article, it will work great!

If you find a 300mAh battery online that will fit properly, please let us know by putting it in the comments!

Matthew Bishop -

Excellent tutorial - allowed me to fix my Ring Pro that died all of the sudden. Had it pegged to the battery but found your tutorial which helped give me the extra confidence I needed to fix it. Bought a battery that was slightly higher capacity (240mah vs 250 mah) but same physical size; swapped the boards, reassembled and presto! Works like new, didn’t even have to reprogram. Thanks!

Ken Kelly - Antwort

would connecting a transformer without the 25w 50 ohm resistor cause the battery to fail? Cause that ‘s what I did and now it doesn't work. It shuts on with power, but then shuts off shortly after…

Alonzo Boschulte - Antwort

I just removed the 4 screws on the case and tried to separate the front from the back. All of the 4 sides have released their plastic clasps but there is something in the center holding the 2 sides together. I suspect it is the plastic weld under the bar code label on the back. I stretched the sides out about 3/8’\” and I am afraid I will break something if I pull on it any further. There is a depression so I peeled the label back locally and I don’t see a screw there so I think it is a weld. I bought this unit in feb 2018. Anybody else see this?

Pat

Patrick L - Antwort

OK, I was able to see inside and see that there were a couple of pieces of double back foam tape holding them together and was able to release the back. (I hope my experience will help other ) I tested the capacitor and it measures 229 uF which is good since the rated capacitance is 220uF. the battery measures 4.01 Volts which should also be acceptable. Now I am lost as to why the live view was not available to my phone most of the time, and at times showed a green shaded picture. The problem was first noticed when someone rang my doorbell and I could not see who was there. That seems consistent with the fact that the battery comes into play when the doorbell is used (as I understand it anyway) . I wonder if the battery is dropping voltage when under load. Not sure how to test that, maybe put a resistor across it and see what happens to the voltage. Suggestions welcome. I have checked the rssi and other health parameters and all look good.

Patrick L - Antwort

Incidentally, the grid on the back of the battery is a heater I believe, not the antenna. the 2 wire connector goes to a connection on the M/B that is labeled “heater”.

Patrick L - Antwort

Checked the internal resistance of the battery and it is >700Mohms. That is definitely the problem, should be around 8 or 10 Mohms. I ordered a new 552025 from Amazon (currently out of stock).

thanks for the good set of instructions on the take apart.

Patrick L - Antwort

I had endless problems with my Ring Video Pro after the first year. I bought a bigger power-supply, rewired, and disconnected/reset many times only to have it fail again shortly after (often on the first button-press). I didn’t even know it had an internal battery until red the reddit post -

https://www.reddit.com/r/ringdoorbell/co...

The battery wasn’t available anywhere in the US, so I found a source in China and waited 4 weeks for a batch of 8 units.

Dismantling the old battery/circuit-board and preserving its insulation was a fiddly process, but it finally works now!

Thank you for excellent guide!

Mark - Antwort

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